Re: Starter motor brushes
so do you have a hiest or a DF?
Quote:
Originally Posted by
heist222
I need new sprockets( suggestions for good torque and speed? I am thinking 13/35).
im about 160 and IMHO I would get (and have) the lowest ratio available (without replacing both sprockets and possibly grinding the front sprocket cover), 2.3. DF stock front 13, 30 rear which is the smallest available.
The bike doesn't have much power , but it is certainly possible to get on a long strait or decline where even perhaps with both you and ur chick on the bike might be be held back by anything less.
I bought a 35 because everyone and their mother said that was the best, put a few hundred miles on it, consistently riding at the 7-7500rpm redline, which if i recall is a modest 55 - 60 mph at that ratio (real not 10% overzealous stock DF speedometer) and then went to 30 and glad i did.
At my weight with a full backpack, full face helmet and some leather, Im still constantly near the red line.
The only argument i hear against a lower ratio is that it takes longer to get through (each/all) gear(s).
And if your heavy its arguable that you will have less of top possible speed so a higher ratio will better distribute through the range, but i just dont put much stock in that argument.
At top speeds the wind resistance is 50% of your engine output, an actual greater factor than say a 30% heaver load.
A higher ratio just gets you to a lower speed faster, so it makes no sense to me.
Now if your on the F1 circuit and it matters exactly where your shift points are then by all means limit your top speed with a higher ratio.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
heist222
-I need new jets
You don't state which jets and for what purpose.
Pilots?
if replacing a clogged one, you need a new 40, you could get away with 42 or perhaps 45.
If you have reason to think you need a different size, here is everything you'll ever need
http://www.ebay.com/itm/401030124735...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
you wont use most of them but look at the price, most people pay more for a single jet.
These are shipped from one of the most famous counterfeiting locations in china, but i measured these with a pin gauge set and they were remarkably accurate, I cant speak for hole roundness but overall throughput are accurate. I don think it matters in our use.
main?
m5-.08 is what you want.
105 is stock, if replacing a clog.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-M...5WX~so&vxp=mtr
again more than you need, and i cant vouch for this seller but you get the idea.
Id be careful about re-jetting a nicely running engine if you have no fair reason to.
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Re: Starter motor brushes
heist222,
Sounds like you have a DF250RTB-B, right?
Why does it need an overhaul?
Why does it need new jets? The 2012 DFs seem to be jetted just fine. The 2010 DFs needed rejetting.
As mentioned by axa, the DF is a low powered bike and there is not a lot of power to be gained by modifying the engine and probably a lot to lose in reliability. Remember it started out as a CG125 125cc and is now a 229cc. If you are not satisfied with a top speed of about 55 MPH (GPS) then it is the wrong bike for you.
I have a tack on my DF and never run it over 5k RPM.
The stock front sprocket is as large as possible without grinding on the engine case.
I'm running a 35 tooth rear and have tried the 30 but it seemed too high for the riding I do in the mountains of Western North Carolina. Try one or the other to see what fits you style of riding. No big deal to change anyway. Choices are 30,32,33,35,38,etc :icon10:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...rockets+jtr279
Riding two up is not something I would do on a DF without fitting a proper rear seat and passenger pegs. You also need some kind of chain guard on your bike. That chain could do some damage to your GF's foot. Very dangerous to ride two up on a stock DF.
BTW, take all recommendations with a grain of salt. What works for me might work for you.
Re: Starter motor brushes
hey guys, sad news, my bike I think died today. Was in the process of pulling out of a driveway from work, put her into first, large dathunk ,stalled, hard to restart, got her going and no power at all, stalled again, and would not start ... had to trailer her home. Thinking by the sound something inside let go. Just got home.. haven't done anything yet.. but pretty sure she is done motor wise. 18,583 miles on her. Need some input on where to obtain a possible replacement motor, or steered into that direction. Figure not worth rebuiling out of not being able to aquire the parts. So if you have some ideas , shoot them this way. Hangin a broken heart tonite.
Re: Starter motor brushes
That sucks, Man. Hope you can find a replacement. Would any of those 250cc motors on ebay work? I see they are OHC instead of pushrod. Kind of pricey with shipping....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/250cc-Zongsh...mjB672T9ilKEMg
Re: Starter motor brushes
That does suck. Might be worth taking it apart to see what failed.
Send this guy a request for a price on a CG250 engine. "We have Air Cooled CG250 in stock"
http://www.chinese-parts-canada.com/new_motors.html
His prices use to be reasonable. He had a location in the US to avoid customs problem.
I sent off a request for a Lifan CG250 motor from China. Need to make sure it is EPA approved.
Re: Starter motor brushes
yeah probably will open it up just to see, I would like to know for sure, and I will ask this guy.Thanks Bar.
Re: Starter motor brushes
just wonder if the motor in the 2012 DF250 RTC is the same motor. looking at this for a quick fix right now..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Dongfang-...xWXiJS&vxp=mtr
Re: Starter motor brushes
Re: Starter motor brushes
Quote:
Originally Posted by
bowtiewagon
yeah probably will open it up just to see, I would like to know for sure, and I will ask this guy.Thanks Bar.
woh woh, slow down guys! just jumping and looking into entire engines is a bit hasty. i know the feeling but relax.
the fact that you got it going after you heard the noise, Occam's razor and my intimate knowledge about a 167fmm's combustion environment tells me that there is less of a chance that there is bad damage.
my 2000 mile diagnosis says you have a blow head gasket.
that can be noticed if trying to start it, and you see or feel gush of air somewhere between the head and cylinder body.
been there done this, i carry a spare as standard procedure...
6$ on ebay.
of course its hard to diagnose over the internet so:
pull off the head cover.
pull off the head. 4 bolts.
if im right you will see a torn up gasket.
Now if there isn't any damage to the mating surface place in the new one.
if it were me id resurface and use nothing, but you might want to dab a bit of rtv silicone around the same places it was used when you pull it off.
put it back, i think 22 ft lb for the head bolts. 60 in pb for the head cover.
you will likely need to adjust the valve clearance after removing the head.
i use .04 in, .06 out.
there... bikes running again for 6$
if you had open it up and your head looks like this:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-...1NvM1ZPOThlOFU
or if your piston looks like this:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-...nd1MlV2b0ZuTU0
then that's a different story, but you would not have gotten its started again if it had...
you can check for this sort of damage by taking out the spark plug and seeing if it looks like this:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-...3BNZDBCY0hKNUU
if it does unfortunately the other damage is fairly likely.
take pictures
Re: Starter motor brushes
Quote:
Originally Posted by
bowtiewagon
Looks to be the same from here but I would take axa's advice and at least pull the head.
EDIT
I looked closer and it has 250 cm3 stamped on the cylinder even though it is stamped a 167fmm on the block.
Our DF motor is a 167fmm and is 229 cm3.
