our video shoot by cqtv
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our video shoot by cqtv
part 1
password 1717
chinese+fev english
http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XMjkyNTk4NTAw.html
part 2
password 1717
http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XMjk0OTQyOTIw.html
Righto guys and girls, just finished off my notes and I'll start putting up the rest of the RR over the next couple of weeks.
It's been a long long long long time coming, so I hope you enjoy:riding:
Gahhh, n00b that I am, it took me a couple of hours to get this photo business working. Anyway, here goes.
Boluo to Longchuan – Day 13
The guys from Boluo took us to a traditional Boluo lunch the next day at a lakeside restaurant, which finished up around 1pm. The guys escorted us out of the town for about 10 kilometres. I drove, while Lulu asked for a break and rode pillion for a bit of a rest while one of the gang took responsibility for her monster for a short while. My spirits had received a major boost after the generosity of the past couple of days. We headed on to the X106 and the landscape, fair weather and good roads made it a highly enjoyable ride, riding through wooded valleys and up over rolling hills. A nice change from the heavily populated sprawl we drove through around Guangzhou.
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We stopped in Heyuan to meet a couple who had heard about our trip through motofans and who donated to the charity and offered us a place to stay, but we had to keep moving had to politely turn their offer down. I would look nostalgically at this photo in the days ahead, because it represented a time when everything seemed to be turning out fine.
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We got into Longchuan quite late and, after finding a guest house to stay at, we started looking for an internet cafe so Lulu could send some photos off to Lifan. We were told at three separate places that a new law made it compulsory for every internet cafe user to have an internet ID card, and to get that ID card you have to have a Chinese ID card, which non-Chinese people cannot get. So no internet for me, an none for Lulu, as a Guangdong internet card costs 10 yuan. She would need to buy another one the next day in Fujian, and she was on a tight budget. A right pain in the ass and a massive waste of time.
Longchuan to Jiaoling – Day 14
What a day. I woke up in the morning in a great mood, but that changed in the afternoon when we got a call from a friend in Chongqing who called the Beijing office of Half the Sky who said they knew nothing of what we are doing. During the trip preparation, I had read that many people in China are usually quite cautious about giving money to people they don't know (because of things like the Red Cross scandal, as well as the same charity being linked to the spending habits of a young 'actress'), so this was a shock. We knew that if other people had been calling and getting the same answer then they would think we are trying to take their money for ourselves. I suppose this would arouse suspicion in any country, but the prevailing attitudes would magnify the problem. So we spent the last several hours of the day sorting out how we can regain people’s trust, sending emails and making calls. It wasn't pleasant, but it was my fault for not asking for a Half the Sky contact number that we could post on the website so everyone can call and ask about the trip. Extremely frustrating but I chalked that one down to experience.
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Also a factor was the hospitality we were getting from the people we met. It was all incredible and I’m very grateful to those people. However there was a ton of misunderstanding, on our part and with some of the hosts, as well as other cynics who blogged, from the comfort of their own homes, about our “campaign to take advantage of generosity”. They said that we were only supporting the charity to save a bit of lunch money. This was made worse by a couple of comments that Lulu made to the so-called ‘critics’, and by another post on her blog placing blame with Half the Sky for not telling their receptionists about our event, even after I expressly told her not to. We were both a little unstable at that point, as things looked as though they were spiraling out of control.
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I figured that there was a bit of a conflict of interest there, so thought that I couldn't accept things for free when they were aware of our fundraising, even if the potential donor insisted.
We spent more time in an internet cafe than driving, which was not how I saw the day turning out. Fujian would have to wait until the next day.
Hongtianzhen to Jian’ou – Day 16
It had been a tough couple of days. Weighing on my mind was the effect that the bad publicity that we were getting might be adversely affecting Half the Sky. In contrast to the stunning valleys and riversides that we were driving by, my mind was clouded by what-ifs and possible scenarios, worst of which was the suspicion that Lulu was coming along for the ride just to take advantage of the media coverage it could generate. This suspicion was brought on by an idea in my head: If she would rather blame Half the Sky through Weibo for our problems (which makes the publicity problem even worse), rather than assume some responsibility and look bad to a couple of people, then why is she here?
This continued to nag at the back of my head for a couple of days, as we tried to figure out our differences. Without being able to read more than basic Chinese, I felt helpless at my own ability to react effectively to the situation.
Looking back on this time, it seems as though it was a clash of our own stubbornness, and our inability to let our ideas go and listen to the other. I felt like it was inappropriate to be asking for donations at the same time as seeking free accommodation (which, with Couchsurfing often comes with free meals) to save a bit of cash. She felt like my will had been broken by a couple of angry/negative comments on a internet forum, and that I was bowing to pressure from the outspoken critics.
I guess I was mostly pissed off about the Couchsurfing agenda, which she had told me about before starting but I hadn’t given it much thought. I was thinking about it then though, because I had found that it was so important to her that she would risk the whole journey to continue promoting it. It came down to me not seeing why Couchsurfing was so important to her, and her not see why I would risk the bad press by simultaneously fundraising and receiving personal gifts, even if that’s what normally happens on a journey like this. I didn’t want anyone to have the opportunity to say that we didn’t have the charity’s best interests at heart. A that time I couldn’t care less about Couchsurfing.
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Lulu’s bike started vibrating early in the day so we got it to the nearest repair shop in Yongchuan. One of the bolts holding her frame together had sheared off inside the bolt-hole and looked as though it would have fallen out soon, so it was very lucky we got it repaired quickly.
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Lulu crashed just before lunch, into another bike this time, which she didn’t see. Thankfully nothing was seriously damaged, but she was a little shaken up. Not long after, her bike started making strange noises and turned into a constant screeching of metal against metal. It was her back wheel, and the sprocket mounting bolts had come loose again and were scratching against the chain guard. This problem had come up before and we had the right sized wrench, so it didn’t take long to fix.
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We got going again, with Lulu way out in front, and then the real crisis happened. Death fleeted in front of my eyes for a second as a small child ran out in front of my bike without checking the road. It was one of those slow motion events that you hear about a lot, but don’t often experience. Blaring horn, screeching tyres and clanging metal in a matter of seconds as first I hit the kid and then I lost control of the bike, sending it crashing to the asphalt. Dazed after banging my helmeted head and with an overdose of adrenaline pumping in my veins, I fell over the first time I tried to get up. I heard a child crying and thought “Thank God, at least he’s alive”. Getting up a second time, I ran over to him to see if he needed help. He was standing, holding out a scratched left hand. Nothing else looked serious. His Grandmother can over to me and started yelling at me in Chinese. Now that it was apparent that no life was in danger I relaxed a little and dialled Lulu with shaking hands. “I’m sorry, the number you are dialling is currently switched off”. I swore spastically, at nothing in particular.
The grandmother went to find a policeman and I was left to keep trying to get through to Lulu with half the town gathered around my bike asking questions. When the policeman did turn up, I called my girlfriend in Chongqing to help translate. Apparently a couple of bystanders had seen what happened and made sure that he knew the situation, being that it was completely unavoidable. Either way, as a vehicle hitting a pedestrian in China, I still had to pay the medical bill, which amounted to 200 yuan for an injection and an X-ray. I realised later that it could have been a lot more. I handed over the money to (I assume) his grandfather, who had turned up and apologised profusely before the policeman told everyone to scatter as I put on all the heavy motorcycle gear back on. He suggested I stay in the town for the night and have dinner, which was nice, but I was extremely focused on getting out of there and putting the experience behind me.
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I knew that if I had been going faster, or if I hit the kid with my wheel instead of grazing him with my leg bars, that things could have been much, much worse. It was the kind of thing that couldn’t be avoided because it happened so quickly. I just have to be much more careful in towns, especially at the time in the afternoon when children leave school and are close to the roadside. Lulu finally called me to see where I was. Drained and paranoid about another possible crash coming out of nowhere, I made my way to the next large town to find her and find a place to stay. My desire to drive on the roads had completely disappeared, and I was running on empty.
good reading :-) keep it up, cant wait for the next installment
Well worth the wait, Roadrunner, and thanks for filing. Thanks also for boosting up the font size and color so no one has to go blind!
Jian’ou to Jiangshan – Day 17
The previous couple of days had been havoc to my head. The generosity shown by the guys in Guangzhou now seemed empty, instead of benefiting the charity we may have harmed their image (making it harder for them to do their job), I suspected my riding partner of having ulterior motives and I came very close to seriously harming a child. This is on top of successive 10 hour days on the motorcycle, which my body isn’t used to. Physically, mentally and emotionally in a slump, that morning was the lowest I had felt for a very long time. Foremost in my mind was the prospect of spending three hard months with a rider I didn’t trust. I considered all sorts of scenarios to try and get rid of the anxiety, even cutting things short by just going to Shanghai and then back to Chongqing.
It dawned on me that we were both on completely different pages when it came to what we wanted from the journey.
This was the point where I should have insisted on separate rooms for the night. I seriously needed my own space to sit and think in silence, but I didn’t realise it at the time. The morning’s drive in the sun lightened my mood as I started to see things with more perspective. To a large part, I felt as though I was just being paranoid. Another part was listening to the critics and naysayers on the blogging websites that say she wants to do it for a variety of reasons. But the part I should have been listening to was the part that knows her, that has heard the passion in how she talks about what she wants to do.
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I spent most of the day turning thoughts over in my head, driving past fields full of bursting yellow rapeseed blossom, but more absorbed in trying to make sense of the situation. We didn't talk to each other much and got in to Jiangshan, Zhejiang, at dusk, after driving 260 kilometres on fairly good roads and nice landscape, and found a place to stay fairly easily. She told me after a visit to the internet cafe that she had posted on her blog that it wasn’t Half the Sky’s fault for the problems we have been having. For me, this restored a ton of my faith in her.
Jiangshan to Huangshan city – Day 18
It was an incredible day’s ride on the G205, particularly from the Fujian/Anhui border to Tunxi (Huangshan city) which reinforced to me why I wanted to do this in the first place.
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My spirits had picked up immensely.
We had some problems finding a place to stay and a friend of a shopkeeper we asked offered to show us where there was a good, cheap place to stay. He hopped on Lulu's bike (I had the top bag on the back of mine, so there was no room for him) and she proceeded to scare the crap out of me as she wove through the city traffic with little or no regard to the traffic rules.
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I was a little suspicious to start with, thinking that he was angling for a commission, but he was just friends with the owner, and we paid the listed price of 50 kuai for the night. Just a friendly guy helping some travelers find their way in his hometown.
I would be heading to Huangshan, known throughout China for its beauty, after a good night's sleep.
Huangshan – Day 19
It was an amazing day on the bike. Lulu decided to stay in the hotel in Tunxi (Huangshan city) so I drove to Huangshan, 70 kilometres away, by myself. It was really good to be get some space, blow out the cobwebs and open up the throttle on the beautiful twisty mountain roads.
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I planned on trying to get there, climb up the mountain and get back down again before dark, but I got there just after midday, so the 10 hour hike wouldn’t have been as enjoyable as the 230RMB admission fee promised. On top of that, I was by myself and I prefer to do unforgettable hikes with friends and family. I drove up as far as I could to the eastern steps, dodging the multitude of tourist buses that would have swatted me like a fly if I got in their way.
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Huangshan is considered to be the most beautiful of China’s great mountains, and it was certainly impressive, made all the more so by the great ride in.
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I stopped for an hour beside a river and read some of the book on Confucianism I have been meaning to read on the way, which added another element of relaxation to the day.
When I got back to the bingguan, Lulu and I had another talk about what she wanted to do to help the charity (as helping the foundation was the main reason she came with me) and about the other activities she wanted to do as well. Our intentions were good, but we were still at loggerheads about what was possible. We were still trying to find a common ground on what this journey meant to both of us.