Register & d/l it @ http://www.motomanual.com.ar/index.p...ileinfo&id=150Quote:
Originally Posted by odindj
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Register & d/l it @ http://www.motomanual.com.ar/index.p...ileinfo&id=150Quote:
Originally Posted by odindj
humanbeing
thanks a lot for the link and sorry for the delay on post back ,i got the bike running, but the last week i note that the idle was not stable goes up and down for 1500 to 2000 rpm , any ideas what to check anybody ? thanks a lot for the help.
This was a great thread. As I'm looking for a naked standard 250cc (domestic, so that it can be plated..and also easier on my wallet), this bike is high on my list.
I was surprised to see that there seem to be two newer versions of this bike (the Unicorn), if Im not mistaken. That is, I think they are the same bike.
Here's a slightly older model (16,300 rmb)
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=...13%3A47659&ug=
And I think this is the new Unicorn (18,800rmb)
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=...13%3A47659&ug=
If the newer ones even improved just a little bit since this write-up, I think they make solid contenders in the naked-250cc domestic class.
Has anyone had a chance to ride one? Or hear anything about them? Maybe I'll be the one to make the plunge :)
Either one of those looks like a beast of joy
hi guys
i'm in process of buying one of these, but it's not the naked version, it comes with fairing that just look awful, so what i'm gonna do is to remove all the fairings, and some how turn it to an street fighter look, street fighter headlights and bar end mirrors. i also want to change the current muffler with some high performance one,.
the thing i really like about that bike is the engine. the 170mm engine is just a great one, i have had 2 honda ax-1s and i have already loved it since then, but what bothers me is the bullshit carb which they use on this bike, so i'm gonna change it with tkmv34, one of the best carbs that is also used on megelli 250 too, i also have some tricks to do on the sparking, and i hope that i can pas my friends on their hyosungs and megellies with a much lower price.
Hi, I'm new to the forum. Nice to meet you.
I love motorbikes. Probably the idea of bikes more than the reality. But still, I've been doing it for the past 33 years.
I bought a Yingang Unicorn 6 months ago.
It has been off the road for the past month, and sincerely I wish I'd bought something else.
It's not so much the design, that is what attracted me to it in the first place. I think the design is OK; contemporary, not too tacky and far better than most of the other bikes from CN, but not better than the 150 Qian Jiang Dragon which I bought new(7800) 3.5 years ago.
I bought the Yingang because I thought I fancied a bigger bike. I'm over 6 foot, and the designer of the QJ, whilst getting it all correct, forgot to make it big enough for a rider over 4 foot six. So of course your knees are forever pressing on the wrong parts of the tank.
I was overjoyed to buy the new Yingang, and just riding a brand new bike feels good...for the first few...days at least.
I rode it very carefully for the first 3000 km, never going over 3 or 4 thousand revs. I noticed it didn't want to go into neutral very easily...but what the hell.. it's a cheap bike by Western standards. Finally I realized the least hassle was to just stall it at traffic lights rather than fck about up and down an up and down with the gear lever...you know the kind of thing at traffic lights... and all the while you are trying not to look like a total prick.
Oh yeah, can I just backtrack a little and tell you about the day I bought it?! Well..the one I wanted...they couldn't start it. Seriously, a brand new bike wouldn't start. So I watched patiently as they (tried to) unscrew the plug. It wouldn't come off. So the guy got a slightly bigger spanner. No, it still wouldn't come off. That seemed a bit strange to me, and in hindsight I dearly wished I had just walked away at that point.
Can I also say I feel sorry for the designer, he isn't to blame for what happens after he has done his job.
So anyway...they got another bike. And hey presto, this one started. Something niggled in the back of my mind about changing sparking plugs, but...hey...what the hell... it's a cheap bike by Western standards!
The back light stopped working. They fixed it. It stopped working again. Rinse and repeat. I just gave up worrying about it. I guess it encourages you to ride just that little bit faster at night time, if you know what I mean.
At 2000 km, a bolt fell off the back brakes. I put my foot down and it went so far it almost touched the ground. Seriously I thought I was hallucinating...your foot isn't supposed to go that far...
...but hey what the hell, it's a cheap.....
I rode back home(100km) remembering not to touch the back brake. I was soooo lucky I didn't really ram the brake on. One of the bolts mounting the foot lever and master cylinder just fell out without warning so when you applied force the whole lot just turned round. If you push too far you will slice through the brake hose.
When I got home I scavenged for set screws and bolts on my bicycle. Fortunately the bolt through the fork crown that holds the mudguards on bicycles, it was a perfect fit.
As I was putting the bolt in, I thought I would tighten all the other bolts on the bike just to be safe. And it was at that point that I made a startling discovery.
As I've already said, the bike is designed well, all the parts fit together well, most have specially made screws and bolts. But, whoever put the bike together must have used either the wrong Allen keys or the wrong sized ones, because I noticed ALL of the Allen keys were damaged. Rounded off.
I must say that discovery made me quite angry. It would explain why the sparking plug wouldn't come off the other bike. Whoever is assembling these bikes really doesn't know what they are doing. They are not using a torque wrench and they are not using the correct tools.
I am not sure if it is the bike shop, or the factory. But back brake lever and spark plug? Surely it's the factory. I remember when I was 18 working in an engineering factory, and how my foreman would have killed me if I had ever dared do anything like that. Whoever is putting the bikes together, is simultaneously destroying them.
The bike stalls. A lot of the time it seems to run ok, although it won't idle lower than 1300 revs, but about a third of the time it just stalls, at fairly low revs with alarming results. Mostly when the engine is hot.
I'm used to riding Jap bikes like Honda, Yamaha and Suzuki, and I've never had issues like this in 30 years.
I feel very disappointed, it is a good idea and a good design. But mine doesn't work.
The battery went flat a while back and every time I charged it, it just ran down again. In the end I just gave up with this bike. You have to like the bike you are riding, or really, there isn't much point, it becomes a drag, an ordeal.
I have gone back to riding my bicycle. I know there probably isn't much wrong with it, but there are things I really don't like about it.
It has some kind of microprocessor, a small box. I think they are in all cars these days. Maybe for diagnostic purposes. The bike is quite big physically. Feels almost the same size as a BMW R80 I rode 15 years ago. You can't bump start it. At least I can't. It's a bit heavy. The fuel meter reads empty when it is 2/3 full. But who cares about that stuff, I just want a bike that works.
I would never dream of telling anyone what to do, that is not what I'm about at all. I put this information up because I know CN is a place where information for Westerners is sometimes very hard to come by. For me there are some issues with this bike. You can of course buy a bike like this, for sure it isn't expensive. You might also enjoy tinkering with bikes, in which case maybe you could iron out all the 'creases'. Not sure about the gearbox though. And the publicity brochure does actually say the idling speed is 1300, seems a bit high to me, but whatever.
Honestly, I could tell you more. About how when I'd run it in I thought I would rev it up a bit. And when I did, something happened, not sure if it is the gearbox or cylinder head, but it feels and sounds like the camchain is slipping or valves are free-floating but haha when it first happened I really thought I'd fckd the bike. It's like the sound of gears slipping or something, very loud with a loss of power. So I didn't do that anymore. The bike seemed ok so I just thanked my lucky stars and didn't rev it too high anymore. Keep it below 6000. No drag-starts at traffic lights.
Please buy one, if that's what you want. And I love the design! Upside down forks, floating mono-shock, sculpted tank, 3 discs etc. etc. Too good to be true almost....
Now mine sits in the pile of stuff I've amassed in my 4 years, stuff that looked ace before I bought.. but that subsequently developed issues in a very short space of time. I jest you not. Apple, Samsung etc. etc. And now Y- for Yingang.
But hey....what the hell...it's a cheap bike.
Good luck riding whatever it is your riding(I also love rollerblading)
And have a nice holiday.
Years on this forum I keep telling people not to buy Chinese bikes except for those made by joint ventures. If you want anything 250cc or below Sundiro Honda, Jianshe Yamaha, Haojue Suzuki are the choice. Most Chinese bikes are OK in theory, but they are assembled by lazy money grabbing idiots, especially if they are not for export. Your bike, probably just a regular Yingang. Also probably won't start as there is no fluid in the battery, and that's why it won't hold a charge. If you aren't riding it. fix or relace the battery and sell the thing, otherwise it will just sit there and deteriorate.Quote:
Originally Posted by steven wheel
There are exceptions, where there is a bike which is mostly for export and a some serious effort (by Chinese standards) are CFMOTO 650NK, CFMOTO 650TR, Jialing JH600 and Benelli BJ600, but these bikes I suspect many from 1-2 years or 20,000 kms will most likely will fall apart and become a PITA, but before this time seem 50/50 OK.
Sorry for your problems, but you need to strive to overcome them and not quit.
We say in Poland that the Chinese bikes need to be assembled at home. You need a few hours to Mount it for yourself. We know which reseller makes it for you. I have on my 7year old keeway (quinnjiang) 31.000km without bigger problems. I had made with my senke 125 over 18.000km without problem.
Fact is you need some basic mechanical knowlege because the Services do not have.
Are my few hours in garage worth 2000 dollar which i can Save with a chinesee bike?
But both of my chinesee bikes where produced for export. Maybe this is the problem.
Not so much a problem :lol8:Quote:
Originally Posted by beniamin82
My TMEC 200 is a fine, basic bike. I bought it new after having bought a used TMEC 200 and put over 10k miles in 18 months commuting to work and back on it, while it seemed to try to fall apart (I never knew how many miles it had because the speedo cable was broken. I was able to keep it going, but then I figured for about $1500, I will start my experiment from scratch once again with a new bike. So far, about 2800 miles since late May. It gets me 16.3 miles to work in the morning, and the same distance home after work, 5 days a week.
Hi to all!
Who have problem with radiator leak?
Where did you bought radiator parts?
I searched entire internet ( taobao, ali ), without result...
I had a leak and Yingang gave me a new radiator. Leak was caused by vibrations reaching the fan which rubbed against the housing. Take it to an automotive radiator repair shop, they usually can solder it.Quote:
Originally Posted by arm
Cheers!
better is solder it. but i left bike in another country, and i have not possibility fix. I hoped bought one radiaor from internet-shop next will be back and install simply =)Quote:
Originally Posted by ChinaV