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Everyone, not only did I get a new rim today, it had a brand new tire on it. All I had to do was exchange the brake disk out. So now when I wear out the tire I have another new one ready to go. It took awhile to get it, but it did come from China. With only six days left on the warenty I guess they treated me right.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ghost1133
Well I got the battery, mirrors, new tail light about a week ago but still no clutch pedal and linkage. I have emailed Chad constantly and it seems like I'm being ignored, I'm pretty frustrated and pissed off about this deal lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by GUN ROD
I guess most of us are riding, not wrenching... LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by GUN ROD
Hey guys. New member here. My DF Bobber arrives Thurs. Thanks for all of the helpful information. Well done. :naughty:
jazewade,Quote:
Originally Posted by jazewade
I know I would of been lost with out this forum. Probably took off a year of learning about the DF250RTB. I only have about 95 miles on mine, due to the weather. But a few miles at a time. I have changed the rear drive sprocket to a 38 tooth, removed the air injector, relocated the ignition switch. Went to drag bars. All good. I removed the racing stripes, added some hardtail bags, and added a handle bar bag. Changed out the high rise mirrors, I thought the OEM mirrors stuck up like antlers, lol.
Soon as the weather cooperates I am planning on putting some serious miles on it.
Just remember, "It is what it is", and you will enjoy this bike. Customise the hell out of it. but don't try and make it something it isn't.
Great mods. Could you share a picture? I've been looking for mirrors that screws into the OEM location. One of my mirrors self destructed. No repair possible.Quote:
Originally Posted by ghost1133
Yeah, I echo those words. They're fun, easy to customize and a hoot to ride on surface roads.Quote:
Just remember, "It is what it is", and you will enjoy this bike. Customise the hell out of it. but don't try and make it something it isn't.
Great information for sure. Would def like to see a pic of your mods. What's the best method of removing these racing-stripe decals? Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by jazewade
Yep er. Got the email confirmation that the new mirrors where shipped out yesterday. That is the last thing I am going to do except ride it. I will get back to you with the pics. But you will see all, or everything I have done to this bike. Not a lot really. I know I jumped the gun here. I don't like to post before the pic. I just want to keep this forum going.
you can only remove the stripes if you get the matte black, if you got the glossy the stripes are clearcoated over, if you did get the matte black i hear you can just peel off the stripes with poorly manicured fingernails.Quote:
Originally Posted by jazewade
I went with something like the original, Scooterdepot wanted around $70.00Quote:
Originally Posted by GUN ROD
http://www.jcwhitney.com/adjustable-...rid=c14469u0j3
Pair of two, $17.00
Quote:
Originally Posted by alleykat
Relocated ignition under tank after removing air injector.
Attachment 7034
Removed racing stripe. Added saddle bags. Went to a 38 tooth rear sprocket.
Attachment 7035
Drag bars, went with teardrop mirrors from bikemaster, no vibration I can actually see whats behind me. Added handle bar bag.
Attachment 7036
I am going to add a Nautilus Twin Air horn. Believe it or not I can get one in all flat black. And then I am done, yeah right.
[Attachment 7037
Almost everything I have done to the bike, I got from this site. If only this scooter had a kicker, it would be perfect.
"Keep the rubber side down"
Attachment 7038
Thanks AlleyQuote:
Originally Posted by alleykat
Good match.
How do you like your mods after a few miles.
Your weather has been great.
she's looking good ghost.Quote:
Originally Posted by ghost1133
Quote:
Originally Posted by hooliganboy
Thanks hooliganboy. Let me tell you, this bike rocks. It will cruise at 60 mph. But most of the time I ride 50, 55 mph. Wait a minute. I just passed a gas station?
What's up with that? Lol.
Hey folks..haven't been o in a while..been busy working and such..but I have been riding quite alot.I have 26oo plus miles on my bike,and have not had any troubles out of the norm.But.....I need to switch out my tail light assembly with the led set i have,cause I go through tail light bulbs once a week it seems..with it being a hard tail and the roads around here suck..and now I am looking to change out my headlamp.This is the topic I would like to discuss with anyone who might have an idea of what i am looking for.
I want to change to a brighter bulb configuration,and i was looking at these HID lights. anyone have a clue as to where to find kits to change these over.I know that the philis 12728 bulb that is in the headlamp already has been a bitch to find locally and I am having to order some of the net to replace mine..but i thought before i do..maybe i should go to see if i can change out the whole thing and be able to have a brighter night ride than I do now.. and access to more common bulb replacements that auto zone would sell.
So please let me know what you know.. and what i may need to do to change over to the "BRIGHT SIDE" OF RIDING.
I to had MAJOR issue's losing tail running lights and headlamps
I spliced in 2 - 6" led strips into brake light housing as the running light and left the brake light bulb as is (its brighter and didnt break like the running lamp did)
and I went to my local auto parts store and picked up a small 55w sealed beam bulb (that fit) and socket for it and spliced it in (car headlight)
since the upgrades Ive not gone thru a single bulb , that before hand was going thru 1 every 3rd or 4th ride
you lose the unstarted running light (headlamp) but end up with nearly double the sight range at night
pull headlamp out of housing and carry into auto store for sealed beam sizing and get the socket for it at same time
done many many mods but only 2 that HAD TO BE DONE , those wer change rectifier (was over charging poping bulbs - dimming on rev up and getting so much power wen rev down -pop ) and changing bulbs (anything that was "always on" wer always breaking every 3rd pothole) , approaching 2k miles on my bike now as well
I changed headlamp assembly with a 65/50 H-4 lamp & a Model A rear lamp , 200 miles no issues.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanDaMan
So your saying you still have High and low beams???cause when i have to go to inspection they check on that..and I do not want to loose out .forgive my ignorance..all this bike stuff is new to me..but I love the learning experience.
yes its a (5 1/2" ?) car sealed beam high/low beam 55/65w headlamp - 55 normal 65w highbeam
but you lose that tiny little bulb used for the motor off headlamp light
thank you very very much.I will attempt to do the same.Quote:
Originally Posted by DanDaMan
Hey bowtie, if get get a few spare minutes, could you update us on what you did with your clutch cable problem?
Thanks.
Yes, been taking advantage of the weather when I can.Quote:
Originally Posted by GUN ROD
The mods I really like have been the rear 35t sprocket, re-jetting to 108 main and the 45 slow jet.
Still need to do handle bars.
Now you guys have me thinking about the headlight again. (even though I haven't had a problem)
Sure do miss barnone...
Barnone was tuff love but wise, I miss him too.Quote:
Originally Posted by alleykat
35 with 108 & 45, performance change?
OK I finally got mine as well. Not the color I wanted but Im happy with it so far. Need to still get my training and lic. Got it from killermotorsports. Only took a month to get it. Here are some pics:
Attachment 7052Attachment 7053Attachment 7054Attachment 7055Attachment 7056
Note that I stripped out the scrws for the front brake resavoir. Really soft metal and they are in tight. Guess I will have to use a screw extractor. But the brakes do work FWIW. I just thought I should bleed them to be safe.
OK this is my first bike. Forgot to mention that. Im a total noob. What does .5 inch play in the chain mean exactly? Mine is tight but has not been riden yet. Does that mean I should loosen it so that I can pull the chain up with my finger 1/2 inch?
yes, that's what it means. put your finger under the lower part of the chain halfway between the front and rear sprocket and lift up, it should move about half an inch. i usually keep mine at about 3/4" because from what i understand a little loose is better than too tight.Quote:
Originally Posted by GonzoX
I had some extreme hunting to do but finally came across a triumph cable that the inner cable was long enough to work,but the outer cable cover was a bit too long..so I cut a section of the outer cable cover ..about 3 inches, from the middle of the cable..without damaging the inner cable, slid the to sections together,wrapped them with tape and then heat shrinked the whole cable.had to drill out the clutch handle so the barrel nipple would fit..it was bigger, and installed the cable on the bike.The tension decompressed is about perfect,and the tension compressed is perfect. so i should not have any more troubles.Been about 1000 miles so far and no worries.She seems like she shifts smoother as well.. no hard shifts like before.All my fault,using the stock cable on a longer path with the cruiser bars I have.Plus the best part... the cable only cost me $25...instead of the $75 that scooter depot wanted for the stock cable..which I know whould have snapped again.Quote:
Originally Posted by alleykat
On to another question for you all who have a few miles on thias bike.
The roads around here are harsh.. bumps every ten feet,and serious ones at that...there isn't a smoothe road around here at all.. but you get used to it.Here is the thing.When I hit a bump,in any gear,I am usually aware before i hit it so I throttle down,hit the bump then throttle up.When i am throttled down,and hit the bump I hear some very annoying rattle inside the motor..like the clutch plates(do not know what else to call them) are rattling over the bumps.. it is quite load,and very uneasy to hear. Is this a common sound.. or is there an adjustment I need to do to the inner guts of the transmission? again,,it sounds like it is from the internal of the trans..but while riding it is really hard to tell..so I ask the experienced riders.. have you ever heard this sound.
At first i though maybe my chain was lashing somthing,but I checked everything near and around it,nothing to hit...then i thought maby it is a loose something..but everything is tight.so i am just speculating that it is internal on the trans.
As you ride and the chain goes through heat cycles and it will stretch.Keep and eye on the slack.IF it stretches to much,it will slip on the sprockets and damage them.Quote:
Originally Posted by hooliganboy
I installed a variable (spring loaded) chain roller (rollerskate wheel) lets me have slack n no chain slap/growl(when it drags across frame)