Bow, even though you discounted the chain, I've heard/felt it too. That's why I keep my chain at 1/2". goes away.Quote:
Originally Posted by ben2go
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Bow, even though you discounted the chain, I've heard/felt it too. That's why I keep my chain at 1/2". goes away.Quote:
Originally Posted by ben2go
I don't have any "real world" numbers. I feel like it has changed. Like Barnone used to say, change one thing at a time and see.Quote:
Originally Posted by GUN ROD
I feel the #45 slow jet helped a lot. No more "popping" on decel and better idle.
One thing I feel I should point out is hang on the you stock parts like the air pump and jets. If you guys live in cities that stick a "sniffer" up the tail pipe during state inspection, you may not pass. The small jets and air pump lets the bike pass the emission standards.
Gonzo, Good looking bike, I like the silver...Quote:
Originally Posted by GonzoX
Pictures please, lolQuote:
Originally Posted by DanDaMan
Hey guys, in the spirt of Barnone's thread... Please post mod pictures and a working link to the parts you used...
Good point, I've save the air unit, never thought about the jets. I'm sure their somewhere. Will find & bag together. Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by alleykat
Where did you buy the 45 jet?
Thanks for the cable update...I have heard a couple of times, a sound like a "marble" bouncing around in the case. I was leaning towards the chain striking the lower part of the rear fender, which is fiberglass and would produce a different sound. Again, i've only heard it twice and keeping and eye on this issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by bowtiewagon
http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/sh...ll=1#post41593Quote:
Originally Posted by GUN ROD
Yeah thats what it sounds like..a marble rattling around in the trans.. I will check the chain a little and maybe have to take out a bit of the slack in it. I think I may have a bit too much.. but as they say loose is better than tight..at least as far as chains go...maybe not for other uhum..things..:naughty:Quote:
Originally Posted by alleykat
Quote:
Originally Posted by alleykat
Thanks Alley, bookmarked the site.
Check out the newest edition to the family...
http://www.scooterdepot.us/mc-d250rtd.html
srry im old school phone dont have that option and not own digital camera :p so uploading kinda imposs , but can link the part
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATV-CHAIN-RO...009836&vxp=mtr
just remember I drive a slightly diff bike frame wise , look at your frame to see if have the mounting bracket mine had it like it was always intended but never installed
What happen to barnone?
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaytonaCraig
http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/sh...ll=1#post39829
Kinda strange though.. This was posted by a guy that had never posted before and has never posted since...
Ok, no sweat. Thanks for the info!Quote:
Originally Posted by DanDaMan
You are not gonna believe what just happened to me. Sitting at the light, light turn green I go, only I didn't, the four bolts that hold the rear sprocket on just sheared and broke. All 4 of them. I am waiting for my bro-in law to come pick me up with his trailer. No warning... Just bam and snap. How the he'll does that happen?
You guys that changed your sprocket do the bolts come out of the wheel housing so I can replace them, or am I gonna have to get anther wheel? This kinda stuff should not happen.
ya they come right out , you can buy and install (thread inserts) and use normal bolts instead of the originals
and no its not common , r u sure bolts broke and the C clip ring didnt pop off instead , as that would allow sprocket to come lose even with all bolts in place
the sprocket with its mounted drive bolts , slide into the rim and are secured by only a c clip , if c clip is installed in error or forgotten the sprocket can at any moment "pop off" secure drive bolts wont prevent that
C clip is the only thing that holds the sprocket on not the bolts , bolts only keep sprocket spinning with the wheel , unless you have done above mentioned threaded insert then the bolts would secure the sprocket to the rim
They definetly sheared in two. I will take pics as i disassemble and add to the posts. Thanks for the sigh of relief about the bolts and incerts.. sound slike I can get it done this weekend. Thanks.
Wow, guess these are not "harden" studs.. jimmyhen has some info and a pic. Just use a tap and die to thread the hub and use at least grade 8 bolts is SAE or grade 10.9 in metric.Quote:
Originally Posted by bowtiewagon
http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/sh...ll=1#post42442
Thats the paln...still not sure why the snapped like they did?Quote:
Originally Posted by alleykat
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...3/P5050004.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...3/P5060005.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...3/P5060006.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...3/P5050002.jpg
My only question is do i leave the sleeves that are in the hub in and just run the bolt to the back of the hub? I think that is the best bet. Plus a spacer on each bolt to fill the gap that the original studs had on them.
Just tap the sleeve thats in the rubber bushings, try not the "break" the sleeve from the rubber if you can. Work slow.Quote:
Originally Posted by bowtiewagon
Make sure your new harden bolts don't bottom out in the hub, watch your length. Use blue Loc-tite. Spacer sounds like a good idea. If you don't have a metric tap & die set, Harbor Freight is your friend. Besides, you may need it in the future. LOL Use oil on the tap.
What size hole is in that sleeve in the bushing in metric?
In some of the smaller tap sets the largest tap is 12mm.
Those studs are meant to shear off. If you replace them with a stronger stud then something else will be damaged at the next weakest point. Transmission on up into the motor. You do not want that. The studs are meant to shear off to prevent more extensive damage elsewhere. Everyone thinks when a bolt breaks, I'll just put in a stronger one. Bolts come in varying degrees of hardness for a reason. You want the bolt that snaps to be the one that will cause the least amount of damage. I'm just saying.
my bet is snap ring failed , sprocket backed out enough to spin and thats what sheared them , but who knows
they have Insets , like a compressed spring , slide it right into the existing unthreaded hole , when run bolt in it "expands" that insert to grab the hole and keep it securely in place , without any tap/die
Good point Ghost. I'm still trying to understand the reason for the design in the first place. I would go back with the original "studs" but the problem is getting replacement could take a month or so...Quote:
Originally Posted by ghost1133
Maybe the snap ring wasn't fully seated? Bow, what is the condition of your ring?Quote:
Originally Posted by DanDaMan
Dan, I haven't seen the insert that your describing. Where would we find those?
Snap ring was in just fine.It was where it should have been.The sprocket was not detatched in any manor.I am not sure the purpose of this design..the sprocket should be attached to the hub some way,and to me this was just a design for a quick release of the sprocket to be changed out..I see no reason why the fix could not be to run studs all the ay through the hub itself,and attach it that way.But I will look into more before i do anything else to it.Quote:
Originally Posted by DanDaMan
Plus what has me scratching my head is why did it happen.There was no sign of anything wrong at all.The trans shifts smooth, the wheels are straight, the chain is not tight..in fact maybe a little loose. what would cause this malfunction to happen. Could the road conditions and the hard tail combo be the issue...doubt it. The snap ring was correctly seated as far as I could tell when i removed it. any thought on that?
http://www.emhart.com/brands/heli-coil , http://www.toolbank.com/p/C3546/RCL27103 , http://www.newmantools.com/recoil1.htm , I get mine from http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...0160262&ucst=t , Ive used em on stripped holes and holes without threads at all (center valve cover bolts on 81 Jeep limited rebuild - unthreaded)l
if the snap ring was seated then i havnt a clue , perhaps just a bad "batch" of bolts got sent out
ive no issues with mine and i treat it pretty hard , matter of fact out of the 3 super bikes ive owned , this 1 is the only that will burn out
81 Honda CB 750F super sport 65 in 1st bury speedo @95 in middl of third , 77 Kawi KZ 1,000 (turd unless only goin straight line) , 77 suzuki 750 GS (meh and at 23 mpg ....really - time to order something small ---->) , 2010 DF 250 smoke them tires at will (not that I do (tire be expensive) just that it can)
so what kinda milage everyone else getting , I'm running about 70-75 mpg with about 90% my riding being highway travel at 70mph (on $3 I top off ride to my momma'a 35 highway miles away do yard work and ride home (yes 70 miles on 3-3.50)) , and I just slapped new sprocket on to drop RPM's at standard cruise speed to try to further increase it
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanDaMan
So Dan, what tooth sproket did you slap on and how much difference is there in the ride?
I went to a 38 tooth. Feels pretty good at 60.
I put a 36 on and 4th hits what 5th used to
5th used to top out max revs at 70 , 4th now pushes to 65-70
so instead of a screaming engine on highway , it almost a growl / heavy purr