Printable View
GonzoX:
My shift linkage broke in the exact same spot. I was able to cut off the threaded end and carefully drill into the beefy part of the rod, tap that and bought some threaded rod to thread into the tapped section. My drilling was slightly off and you could see the shape of the threads on the outside of the rod so I JBWelded three nuts on the outside to "beef up" the rod. 700 miles later and I've had no issues. I actually think it is stronger now than the original.Attachment 7372
One thing I've noticed about our tanks is that you get a false sense of torque, this is due to all the wire harnesses that are running under the tank. I recently had an issue with my ignition switch, when ever I hit a bump my engine would completely shut off. I took my tank off to chase wires to find that the female/make connector was shattered, after I repaired the connectors, I mounted the tank. After a few turns my gut was telling me that I might screw something up (6th sense from years of messing up H-60 helicopters), I back off the nuts, nabbed me some loctite, some lock nuts (the type with plastic threads), and torque to show a minimum of 3 threads... I really want to avoid getting doused with fuel, I've done that enough times with JP-5 :]
I made a new replacement shifter rod , went to lowes hardware in the isle behind where they make the keys is welding equiptment , including stainless steel solid rod 4ft for 8 bucks
cut to length , took original rod and cut threads off , then welded those threaded ends back onto the new rod
anyone that has any exp at all with welding could knock it out for ya in about 10 minutes
Thanks Dan. Only problem is that the threaded end on mine is what actually broke. Still waiting for a return call from Killermotorsports and it's almost noone the day after. Starting to wonder if anybody out there that sells these bikes actually wants to support them.
Gonzo, you should be able to find a bolt that is similar in size and threads. Cut the head off and weld it to the rod. Either that or just thread the new rod. Simple metal work with a die set.
my 1st try I burned thru my threading and lost about 1/2 of it , most of the threading is still showing in your picture , if can get to austin we can get u fixed up in a jiffy , or maybe mail it to me ? ill fix n mail back
but best bet get about 20 bucks together call a few shops in your area to find a welder and take what u have in to them simple cut/cut/weld , you be back on the road
shoot worst comes to worst , could just take mine off for thread sizing , go buy bolts and rod and make "new ones" and just mail em to members needing/wanting them
ps - a temp fix could be a long nut (lowes) screwed onto whats left of the rod threads , cut the bent bit off the threads and screw it into the other end of the long nut (it would look nearly identical to babyswiss picture top of page , but only 1 long nut instead of using 3 nuts)
Thanks Dan,
I only have about 1/8 inch threading left and it is visibly damaged (bent) as well on the forward side of the rod. Took it to a machine shop today and they will asses if they can or even want to make a replacement. I feel better about them doing it and having one made of better metal. In the mean time, I am supposed to have one sent to me from Killermotorsports since my bike is still under warranty.
I work nights and am getting ready for my second marriage in a week and a half so I wont have time to mess with it. Would rather pay to have one built as I want to always carry a spare if this happens again with the replacement part from China.
"YIKES" Did not learn the first time. Just kidding...Quote:
Originally Posted by GonzoX
Congrats . Best.
Found a local machine shop and they did exactly what you did. Only cost me $10. He could only drill up to about 5/16" deep into the rod though and like yours it is slightly off a bit. Hope that will be enough. Hope to pick my bike up from my brothers place by Friday. If it lasts me 700 miles then that would be great. I will have a spare way before then. Thanks for the help guys.Quote:
Originally Posted by Babyswiss
Hello all;
i have had my DF Bobber about 3 months, like the slow ride easy & light turning or the bike. I cannot for the life of me figure out why after throttle around 60MPH and fully warmed up the bike sputters then stalls i have to pull off the road. i am guessing either vapor lock, or because of gravity fed gasoline and too much shaking?? i am lost on that subject. ANY ADVISE? also very steep hills in 3rd gear (40mph) she will stall as well..
attempted: higher idle to keep gasoline "chugging", less restricting air filter,slower deceleration. i am out of ideas.
2nd my shift rod Broke in the SAME location! must be a weakness in manufacturing. called in 2+ months ago for my replacment shifter rod(still not here) luckily i have metal working connections, just be carefull the threads are REVERSED towards the acutal trans, (for safety)
the running light is a little dull but riding with one light on BRight is good enough...
i do love the bike just wish i could ride it on local 55 MHP highways with out stalling.
Wow that's odd A_Pilot,
Mine sputters as well. And carburators scare the crap out of me. My brother who knows bikes (not the one that broke mine) told me as long as it runs just leave it alone so I will do that for now. Mine does not stall like yours does but it does sputter. Its more of a spit sound or pop sound coming from the carb. Wish I knew. The exhasust sputtering on downshifting and deceleration is normal I have read but not sure about the sputtering. When it does this I can feel my whole bike jump a bit. It's almost like there was an air bubble in the fuel line. Starting to wonder if it may be a gas cap issue. That's one thing I am glad I dont have like others, a leaky gas tank. But then again, only had the bike a month or so.
If you havent already, read the whole thread. Lots of info here. Many here have swapped out jets on the carb because by default this bike is set up to run lean. Im guessing that causes 90% of the problems here. I have yet to get my bike up to 50mph so I cant say if it stalls at that speed yet. I am still breaking it in. Fastet Ive run it was 40mph.
And yes the shift rod issue seems to be common. Not even sure I want to ride my bike again until I get a spare but I did get my original one repaired so that will get her back home where she belongs. Hope mine doest take two months to get here. Took a month to get my bike. Now you have me worried.
Here is a pic of the repair work they did on mine. I still need to get some spare nuts to brace it more.
Attachment 7400
BTW I do remember reading something on the killermotorsports web page about stalling out. It was on one of their maintenance sections. Maybe you could look there or just do a google search. I hope you figure it out because that would help me and a lot of other newbs out as well.
I hope you figure it out. I will be watching your post and as always I follow this thread like a hawk at least once a day. It's a gold mine for DF owners.
I could tear into the carbs, i just hate major engine repair, what size carbs would you recomend? And or where can i get them?
Dont know enough about them to comment but there are many posts here in this thread about getting jets sized 100 or 105 IIRC. You can do a thread search on carbs or jets to get that info. Seems they have had a lot of luck doing that.
Sounds like you're running lean, I had the same problem when I removed all the secondary air injection components. I did not block off the vacuum port on the carb plenum that was connected to the EGR, causing a large leak of air. When I blocked the air out I had to retune the carb's fuel mix, ours is located near the bowl mount facing down, on the engine side, if you screw it closed you will shut fuel supply and vise versa. In my case I had to back off the fuel supply to the engine.Quote:
Originally Posted by A_Pilot
The first thing I would do is check for leaks, have you modified the emissions component? My issues where broad, before tuning the fuel mix I stalled at idle, at constant speed, and at deceleration... If there's no leak close your fuel mix valve.
This is a classic symptom of running lean, you can thank all those nice EPA components. I thank the lord the State of Nevada does not sniff motorcyles. Any who, you can thank Barone for this:Quote:
Originally Posted by GonzoX
http://docs7.chomikuj.pl/603318020,0...ing-Manual.pdf
This link does not have a complete copy of the manual, if you want one message me and I'll email it to you.
Yank all of the EPA junk out, plug up the plenum vacuum port, and retune your carb, it makes a world of a difference in the how it feels across the powerband; I can't say it's faster, but much smoother operation and better cold starts.
indeed anyone wanting/expecting the bike to run well past 3/4 throttle needs to upgrade there jets , at the very least the main jet ( I jumped mine to 111 and I still "lean out" when aproaching 80 mph indicated (but I also have a modified air ram) , gunna put a larger needle jet in to see how much that helps )
then after u rejet as stated above "retune the carb" , I stuck a small screw driver in my back pocket , screwed my fuel mix all the way in then back out 2 turns then rode her , stopping when acted up and backed it out 1/2 a turn more/repeated as needed till got to the sweet spot where backing it out didnt help no more then turned it back 1/2 a turn and rode her a thousand miles
ps , fuel mix screw is front of carb facing front tire , idle is on side
anyone within 60-100 miles of austin tx , I be willing to help out (long as not cold or rainy) can even come to you , although if road tuning u need another bike to ride along with me as mine has been heavily modified to fit my 6'5" frame and not met another man yet that can reach my shifter or foot brake :p ( just finishing my stereo instalation 150 watt amp into 2-8" speakers mounted on sissy bar :p )
Is the "plenum vacuum port" the tube connecting to the engine itself?Quote:
Originally Posted by mrepooh
hmmm , isnt it the hose connection on the intake manifold (black bit that bolts carb to motor)
anyways its an easy deleat - small pipe to side of motor with hose attached remove and plug ( I used sheet metal between motor and pipe , bolt up and remove to make sure didnt puncture (my 1st try I punctured sheet metal and it leaked) reinstall ) (or just plug the pipe) , unplug hose from intake manifold to the air injector and plug , unscrew air injector from front bracket toss onto work bench , ride till tires fall off
Correct, it's that black piece of plastic (connecting the carb to the engine) that has a tiny 1/4 or 5/16 diameter brass flange port and hose attached to it. You might want to check that for leaks if your stock everything is buttoned up properly. If you removed all your emissions components you're gonna need to plug it and cut the fuel mix to the carb.Quote:
Originally Posted by A_Pilot
If everything is all good and you're still having problems, as Dan states, you're going to need to increase your main jet. Altitude plays a huge role in the main jet's performance at open throttle, here in Vegas we're 4000-6000 ft above sea level, I won't benefit much from a larger main jet, the stock 105 I have is good enough. But for low altitude areas you might want to up the jet to at least 110 if you're planing to haul @$$.
When ever I roll around I have a small bag of tools around, I've had so many problems with this bike I've fixed I feel like I'm in the Navy again fixing SH-60B seahawks LOL.
If you can possibly post a vid that would help out a lot :] Troubleshooting on the net can be a b**ch.
You're right, I've always referred to single vacuum chambers as plenum and multiple vac chambers as manifolds :]Quote:
Originally Posted by DanDaMan
I have a feeling the stalling bike has the size 86 main jet , FAR to small , causing it to over lean (fuel starvation) at speed , which if not corrected causes overheating and eventually valve burn
untill u get bigger main jet I think you need to RESTRICT (tape up) your intake not get a more free flowing one , take a 6" piece of duct tape rap it around your air filter only leaving it about 1/4 open , go for a ride if problem goes away thats the problem u need bigger jets (because your getting to much air in the air/fuel mix)
^^^^ messing with fuel mix screw could help also , If I recall screwing IN in richer and out is leaner , so try 1/2 a turn at a wack
PS - pay attention to how much you turn the screw so can get it set back to where it was originally (if needed) , by counting 1/2 turns made , write it down if need to
even with my big 111 main jet at 75-80 indicated the motor will occassionally cut out from fuel starvation but never bad enough I need to pull over
I went to auto parts store and bought a radiator hose (used the air filter for sizing) with a 180 degree bend in it cut it to only have the U shape bolted it to the carb the other end to the air filter , now I have a forward facing air intake out in the air stream - aka poormans air ram ( no real effect untill past 60 indicated )
its a fine line we ride on these small bikes , LEAN produces more horsepower thus more top speed , but to lean and you might as well toss a grenade into the motor
Nice, I didn't even think of that. It's a whole lot better than running around half choked. There's no give with these tiny bikes, what you think is too little or too much become exponentially excessive once you get the bike going. You're right about the jets being too small, even in the high desert, 105 still seems to be running a bit lean once I pick up my RPMs.Quote:
Originally Posted by DanDaMan
That is an awesome idea!!!!! I am heading this weekend to get the bigger jets, should i replace the main and the other one? I think its called the pilot jet.i will repost a photo of the secondary vacuum to the left of gas tank (under it) for opinions.Quote:
Originally Posted by DanDaMan
ya I would , the pilot/slow jet while being the only jet operating at idle to 1/4 throttle does continue operating at wide open throttle
but you can do a "plug chop" yourself to see how well its running at low idle , start it up in nuetral speed the idle up a little let warm up and hit kill switch pull spark plug and check color , what u want is a nice "tan" spark plug (white is lean/black is rich) , myself I dont mine a slightly rich idle
if needed increase the slow jet , and jump the main to 110 or so , the rest can be coxed from the air/fuel screw to get you that nice tan plug
unless your gunna install an air ram then id go a bit bigger than 110
http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/tec...n/viewall.html
ps - I mentioned be4 I used standard 10/40 oil , but could never find nuetral , well I messed with my clutch adjustment today and can now hit nuetral from both 1st and second without problems with engine running /wink
most here dont seem to use there bikes for "highway cruisers" but thats the very reason mine was purchased for ($3 for 70 mile trip or $8-10 for my GS750 for same trip ) , it rarely see's anything other than highway pavement , so slightly less tuned is ok for them
still looking for a 7 gallon harley "split tank" I can mount so's I can ride from austin tx to see my bro in N carolina , on 2 fill ups XD
I believe this is a first. Went for a short ride today and when I got back I noticed a funny smell. My horn bracket broke in half and the horn was dangling by the wires across the hot exhaust. I caught it before it burned thru but I'm going to have to fab a new bracket. Anyone else have that problem?
After reading all you guys problems maybe I got lucky. My bike needs to be warmed up whenever you start it cold but after that it runs like a dream. I have her wide open on the drive to work (speedo reading 70mph, with a 38 tooth rear sprocket) and she never stalls out in the least, just purrs like a kitten whether I'm going 7 or 70 mph. I never messed with taking the secondary air injection off, I just bought a silicone hose because the stock one would get brittle and blow out at highway speeds, since I put the silicone tube on the secondary air injection there has been no problems.
I had a bracket break - reflector across forks , just welded and bolted it back up
Man I really wish you guys had pictures of all this stuff. Where is the air injection hose etc and stuff like that. I was also looking for the richness screw and I just dont see it. I know its supposed to be towards the front wheel but I dont see it.
GonzoX: Here is a pic of the new hose I put on the secondary air injection. It is actually braided silicone hose used in home brewing of beer and wine, it can take much higher temps with out getting brittle and blowing out like the stock breather hose the bike comes with.Attachment 7430
gonzo - bottom left picture http://elescooterparts.com/parts/gas...Z26/PZ-26.html that brass srew showing is the fuel mix screw
and as pictured above the air injector has 1 hose going to it from the intake manifold (to make it pulse) , and 1 from the injector itself that takes those pulses and turns it into a bellows to push air into the exhaust cycle to have fresh air in the pipe to better burn excess polutants in the cat converter (sometimes resulting in some "popping")