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im tryimg to decide on a sprocket size to go with. im thinking 37 might be the one. im about 190lbs and would like to be able to get up any hills i may come across at 50-55mph. my usual trip to work is mostly 30-40 thru town but there is a strip of 2 miles thats 55 with 2 long hills. most people drive 60-65 thru there and i would like to keep up the pace. what sizes have others went with and how do they work for you?
Due to Illinois flat roads, I went with a 35. Sorry that I did, when I do run into hills, no guts. Fast on the flat & nice rumble in town.Quote:
Originally Posted by branden84
I went with a 37. I have 8% grades that I have to go up on every ride. They are long, winding hills, and with my 37 I can hoover around 70 mph.
I went with the 38 tooth sprocket, from instinct I guess. Worked out great. I did this with going from a 45 tooth sprocket, (stock). I could go smaller or larger. $29.00 a shot. But the 38 did the trick for me. I weigh about 190. From the take off, I would be hesitant to go smaller. But then the sprocket is so easy to change out, I might try a smaller one. Just for fun. That is when I get the leaking gas tank thing corrected.
So now I am going to light up a fire.
I have been on two wheels for 30 years plus. This is a good bike. But really, does anyone on here think that speeds exceeding 60 mph. is a good idea with only a 250cc.
"I don thin so Lusy" Don't get me wrong. I love this bike.
But with speed you need power. This bike does not have enough torque to get you out of trouble over 60 mph. If that.
What do I mean by that?
That's why they come with a 45 tooth sprocket. Once you exceed the torque your bike is capable of, well put it this way. It would be like free wheeling a mountain bike down pike's peak. No matter what speed you are going, if you cannot kick it in the butt. You are going down. That said.
I might try the 35 tooth.
I agree with you, Ghost. I don't like full throttle just to keep up with traffic. I like having a safety net and being able to get out of the way. The road I travel is fortunately two lane each direction, and the hills slow down all traffic. I won't take mine on the freeway, and I don't like to push it all the time. I'm about 140, so I have a little less to carry around. I might try a new jet to see how much it'll improve things, but if I had to travel 65+ consistently for a great distance, I'd get a bigger bike. I heard that 400 cc engines might be coming out. Of course I won't hold my breath, but I would probably snag one up if it was offered.
im happy to run on freeways in it , but in the slow lane generally , while watching rear views (dern texans think its a race to get everywhere and think its a game to speed as much as possible below ticket levels -ie- 9 over the limit here u cant be ticketed even on an 80 or 85 mph roadway
that said I have hit 80 (indicated) on mine on level ground , with what seems to be a bit more motor left in it (worn tire shake slowed me to more reasonable speeds) , but do lose speed slowly on hills but never fall below 65 even in top gear , and man it sounds great at 65 (indicated)
36 tooth rear sprocket but front fits a 17 tooth , thanks to using a 428 DID chain instead of the 520 chain the bobber comes with (effectivly running a 33 tooth rear sprocket) but I only weigh 165
although still a bit lean on the freeway because of the air ram
joining the "darkside" tomorrow , although may need to remove and or modify fendor/mounting of fendor to accomidate the car tire , and DynaBeading it http://dynabeads.net/ to permanantly internally balance it
I am perfectly happy with its limitations and nursing what I can from her , if I want more I'll find an old 2000-12 CBR250R motor and bolt it in , that 6 speed and claimed 30ish hp (about 3 times the HP of our bikes) in a single cylinder thatll fit the frame looks interesting
it would be nice to know what engines use the same bolt pattern for mounting. to know what options there are for swapping. dirt bikes all use single cylinder engines. i think ill go with the aluminum 38 tooth. anyway to save weight transfers to a better power/weight ratio. i might replace the rims with aluminum as well, after hearing how quick they rust. i was quoted 104$ for the first year of insurance (on a permit). i will be signing up for the msf class soon. next available in my area is scheduled for the end of july. i am planning on ordering the bike a week before the class ends. to try and time everything right i will have the bike, lower insurance rate, and license all at the same time. the hardest part is waiting!!
that u-turn intake sounds like a great idea. what size tubing did you use? and do you think there is a less restrictive alternate filter to use?
i'm also thinking that removing the muffler and welding a slightly smaller diameter straight pipe slightly longer would change the power band a little. the diameter and length would create the backpressure needed for low rpm torgue and the straight thru design would let it breathe for high rpm hp? any one else agree/ disagree?? my logic may be wrong but i wont be expiramenting until next year or so. (unless theres some nice days in winter)
im not sure thats the route i want to take yet. i know its going to be louder. maybe just swap the muffler for a thrush glass-pack.
*ny state does not require emissions test for inspection.
I believe the motor is a small honda bolt pattern , dont recall size of hose on u bend into airstream (carry u filter into store for sizing) , and the motor is a pushrod motor no matter what u do the "powerband" will be right near 1/2 to 3/4 throttle past that your "screaming the motor" for little to no benifit (probably actually producing less HP near max RPM's than at 3/4 throttle) , thats why I geared mine so @ 62 thru 72 or so Im in the powerband instead of 55-65 being my entier powerband
manual states max HP (12) is produced at 6500 , pointless running the bike over that , ever :p
good to know. thanks Dan
Hey.Quote:
Originally Posted by rollenrock
Rollenrock, as soon as you hear about this 400 cc engine. Shoot me a line.
P.S. I'm holding my breath "gasp" :eek2:
Don't get me wrong, I like this bike. But willing to explore new possibilities.
I have some 20w50 lying around could I use this in the 250RTB? My bike arrives ( In New Zealand) this weekend. I read this forum everyday ,while the bike has been on the boat from L.A. . I can't wait to use all the tips and tricks you all have provided.
Cheers Matt
20/50 will work ya , esp if live in a hot climate , most say stay to the wet clutch oil but I use normal 10/40 to no ill effects
It's the full synthetic (non motorcycle) oils that cause the clutch slip.
Back in the day, regular oil was all that was available and still is ok.
My battery kept dying, and I charged it, got the motor running, and disconnected the positive terminal to the battery. Bike died immediately. Tried it again to make sure I did it right, same results. I have a new stator to put in, and I loosened all the screws on engine on the left side of the bike. The part covering the front sprocket came off easy, but I am having a hell of a time getting to the stator. Any suggestions on how to crack it open without breaking anything? I don't want to screw up the gasket since I don't have a spare.
Hey y'all, are the Hesit and DF fenders interchangeable? I decided to go with the Heist and it's arriving this afternoon. I actually prefer the rounded DF rear fender and was wondering if it might fit tha Heist.
Hey again, support needed. Quiet over on the Heist thread. I bought a 'new' heist from a dealer up north here in FL. I was told it had a 'few' miles on it. Yesterday (delivering it today) they told me it had 100 miles on it. 100 isn't a few IMO. I was thinking 10-25 since they said they were testing new sprocket bolts. Any ideas on this? Thanx.
less break in for you :p
and no idea on the stator , we all have had battery issue's dying/dead and having to cut the battery box to fit an american battery - just gotta cut small slot for battery overflow
Never mind. The plan is still GO! Thanx for listening to my paranoia!
I was at a big vintage bike show last weekend. I brought out one of my Triumph Cafe Racers to show off my work and I also brought my semi-caffed DF Bobber pitbike to tool around on. My running joke all day as I passed friends was "Does this motorcycle make my ass look big?" It's actually quite funny when you understand that I'm 6'-2" and 350lbs.:rolleyes1:
The funniest thing to me was that my DF got more attention and interest from the crowd than my cafe racer Triumph. A fellow from a magazine stopped me to take photos. Of course I 'pulled an Elvis' and asked to be photographed from the neck-up.:icon10: The magazine guy wants one for himself. This has been one of the best toys I've ever owned. Great fun.
/Mike
Well, I figured it out. A night of sleep can do wonders when you are beating for head against a brick wall. For anyone else needing to change their stator, here's some help:
Drain the oil from the engine.
Disconnect the battery.
Remove all of the screws from the left side of the engine. It is a good idea to annotate where the screws came from. I believe there are four sizes.
Remove the front sprocket cover.
Remove the screws from the starter. The starter will come off with the engine cover.
Remove the screws covering the rotor from the starter to the engine. Remove the cover, and remove the screw on the inside. This is the one I didn't see last night. The first picture shows this.
Remove the screw holding the wiring harness that is by the front sprocket.
Carefully pull the cover off. I left the starter connector attached.
Open your oil can and disconnect the two connectors that attach to the wiring harness on the stator.
My stator came with the attachment plugs connected. They will not go through the hole in the cover. A cable puller would be handy here, but I used a lot of patience and a tiny flat head screwdriver. I color coded the yellow wires to ensure they ended up in the same hole.
Unscrew the stator from the cover and replace with a new one. Run the wiring harness into your oil can.
When I put everything back together I used some white lithium on the rotors since it would be a dry start. The gasket didn't crumble or break so I left it on.
When putting the cover back on the motor, tighten the screws as you would a tire, alternating top to bottom and side to side. There is a hole on the bottom that is thicker than the rest, so if you end up pin with a floating around, it goes in there.Attachment 7646Attachment 7647
good walk thru thnx , btway could you post a link to the stator you used ? so when needed others can quickly referance to it
I bought my bike from china-moto.com. They have excellent customer service, and I haven't had any problems getting parts. http://www.scooterdepot.us/parts_htm...s_list.html#f9 is a link to an exploded view of the bike with all the part numbers. I use that for reference when I need anything.
I am looking for 110143-1 Shift Pole but when I call the place I purchased the bike they are no help. Do not buy your bike from Countyimports worst customer service ever. I called the Scooterdepot and they said they will not have the part for 3-4 weeks and I really dont want to wait that long. They gave me 2 websites to try but i cannot find the part on there website. http://www.partsforscooters.com/ http://www.chinesemotoparts.com/. If anyone can tell me if I can make one or if they know the tread count because I think I could purchase a threaded pole from http://www.mcmaster.com/.
Please HELP
Ican relate BH. Took a month to get my bike and is now taking another month to get my tags and registration. I guess it will take a month to get my shift pole replacement as well. Got my bike from Killermotorsports in DFW. Worst customer service I have ever seen from a company ever. At least now they are answering my emails. In the mean time you could do what I did and have a machine shop repair yoiur broken one.Quote:
Originally Posted by blackhawk00021
Quote:
Originally Posted by blackhawk00021
Browse this thread,there was someone a while back who replaced one by making his own. I think that is the best bet with alot of this bike. If something breaks, I am neverr gonna get a replacement part from the dealer.. I look at it two ways.First, it takes too lng for them to handle your problem, second if the part broke once..who is to say it will not break again.. this is a chinese bike,and the metal is not the best.. it is easier to go out and find an alternate way to fix it and then you know what you did, and know how to fix it the next time..and probably for less.
I had a hard time trying to find a simple bulb to replace my headlight.. burned out.. I read someone had gone to auto zone and just put a car light into the cannister. so i checked it out. sure enough the sylvania 5006 headlight, fits perfect, all i had to do was change the socket..which they had.. total cost $20, and now if my bulb burns out.. I can replace it very easily from the auto parts store. I went with a 35/35 w and not the 50/50 w.. I haven't riden at night just yet.. but will see how the high beams work soon enough.
that was me bowtie XD and I to fix everything myself , not that ive had anything break except minor stuff - rectifier , headlight/taillight (I went with the 50/50 w ) self made and installed forward controls (the forward controls wer not forward enough so I moved em another 8" forward , including lengthining shift rod and brake hose ) U bend airfilter into the airstream and upjetting , oh ya and installing the car tire (larger than old tire so increased my gear ratio , I now shift into 5th at 70 (indicated) , and that little "shake" the bike used to have is compleatly gone )
Car tire?Quote:
Originally Posted by DanDaMan
Anyone buy from
http://www.motobuys.com/mc-d250rtb.html
Seems like a good price delivered. I'm still waiting on a Heist sale gone wrong so although I would prefer a Heist, The DF is still on my mind.
Dan has one of the "chopper version bikes" which a lot of the parts are the same, but his frame is different and wider in the back for the larger stock tire.Quote:
Originally Posted by xetaprime
i don't remember exactly where it was or who it was on this thread but someone here has made a shift rod. if i recall correctly you cannot just buy a threaded rod because the the threads on both ends have to screw in opposite directions. you'll have to get a rod that's about the same diameter as the one on the bike, then you'll have to get a tap with the right size threads and tap both ends so it screws in correctly. good luck.Quote:
Originally Posted by blackhawk00021