I used a 1974 Harley Sportster tankQuote:
Originally Posted by Carolina Bobber
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I used a 1974 Harley Sportster tankQuote:
Originally Posted by Carolina Bobber
I have a sporty tank ready to go on when mine gets here, not sure of the exact year but I'm pretty sure it's 70's. Was mods did you have to make for it to fit?Quote:
Originally Posted by mustang1288
True, we need to be looking. Are the front and rear the same pad? I haven't had mine off yet. Are there any numbers on the back of the pad?
Ya know...I had them off when i changed out the sprocket,and I didn't even think to look. I guess best to just pop them off and have a peak if there are numbers or not.. gonna do that this weekend. Just wondering if anyone else has gone through this yet.. and if the pads for the Heist match or not.Quote:
Originally Posted by alleykat
Took a cue from rollenrock. Put on a chain tensioner. Went another route and welded a plate under the battery box. I wanted the tensioner to be centered on the chain.
Attachment 7953
Only welded up to the exhaust hanger on the right side.
Attachment 7954
Attachment 7955
Yes that shiny chrome spring is going to show the chain oil.
Attachment 7956
Attachment 7957
Well worth the effort. Rides a lot smoother. I guess riding belt final drives spoiled me.
Good question about the brake pads. Would be good to know.
I have a rattle in my exhaust pipe. Before I go cutting it up to find it. Could anyone tell me where to cut to get at it or maybe have some better advice? Thanks in advance.
The rattle in your exhaust is probably the inner pipe rattling against the outer pipe. I took mine to a custom exhaust shop and he cut in half right near the start of the larger diameter section and determined it was a two pipe design which is common he said. He drilled a hole underneath the heat shield and welded the two pipes together. That "fix" broke right away on me. If yours is like mine the rattle goes away when you press your foot down on the heat shield. I removed my heat shield and drilled two holes through the outer pipe. I then took two self threading machine screws and tightened them down "cinching" the inner pipe so it cant rattle anymore. The screws can't be seen because they are under the heat shield. Been a few months and she is still rattle free!!! My friends told me to let it rattle but it drove me CRAZY!!! Definitely glad I got rid of it.
Thank you man. This weekend the heat shield is comming off and the drilling begins. I am like you, it drives me crazy. Sounds like a better idea then cutting the pipe in half. Might just as well powder coat that heat shield matte black while I have it off.Quote:
Originally Posted by Babyswiss
You're awsome as well as everyone else here.
It just keeps getting better.
What size screws did you use ?
No problem, hopefully that fixes your rattle. I used 8-32 slotted pan head thread cutting sheet metal screws. I bought 3 lengths 3/8, 1/2, 3/4. The 3/8 worked for me.
The 3/8 it is. Will let you know after this weekend.Quote:
Originally Posted by Babyswiss
Keep the rubber side down bro.
I noticed the cat package is just shoved in the pipe, it might have gotten lose. Also check the exhaust mount bolts on the flange, I found I was able to turn them by hand. Check the heat shield mount bolts too.Quote:
Originally Posted by ghost1133
I have to say ghost, that was a mighty good job. I'll be scrounging up some materials this weekend. :]
Gotta love Ebay. $5 for goggles, $6 for mirrors and $24 for a spare shift rod.
The mirrors stay put unlike the stock ones that move from vibration as soon as you start the bike. Havent tried the shift rod yet.
Attachment 7970Attachment 7971Attachment 7972
How many cubic inches are our motors?
Almost 14 if I'm correct
It worked, shot a couple screws under the heat shield and no more rattle.Quote:
Originally Posted by Babyswiss
Thanks Babyswiss
Damn near put myself & someone else in the hospital yesterday at Mid-Ohio VMD. I was tooling around about 5 mph on my DF when I spotted a Heist parked along a row of bikes to my left. So I start to hang a left U turn when I hear the squeal of tires locking up followed by a fellow on a brand new Kymco scooter doing about 20 mph crashing into my side. Fortunately no one got hurt or even damaged either bike. We sort of absorbed the force each other's contact as he was fully geared-up with a heavy riding jacket, and I'm... really fat and doughy.:icon10: I profoundly apologized to the Kymco rider clearly stating it was 100% my fault. He righted himself and shook the whole thing off. Good sport. As I pulled around and looked back, I see about 30 people in a queue all on brand new Kymco scooters, stopped, with stunned looks on their faces. The guy I hit was leading a factory demo ride for new riders. True!
Oh by the way, the Heist I was checking out was very nice looking. Black as I recall, and the rider's helmet was white with eyeball graphics. I't all -your- fault. :icon10:
that last post was priceless Bella , made my day
and ya "about" 15 CI (250 cc = 15.25 ci , and we have 230's)
everywere I go I keep getting questions , so I'm looking for 2 decent sized FisherPrice logos to mount on it , lolz
I've always tried to follow the "don't go faster than your headlights allow" adage, but the headlight on the bobber left little to be desired, even if using the high beams. I've tried multiple things to enhance the light, but not all worked as expected, and the mount isn't conducive to a lot of options. I tried an HID with internal ballast that was supposed to work on a 12V current with 6 amps, but I couldn't get it to do more than flicker. I tried to up the bulb watts, but had no noticeable difference that made it worth while. I kept searching, and I ended up finding a 30 LED white headlight. It was designed for a motorcycle, but the hardware to attach it didn't seem plausible. I got a 5" headlight because it was available, and I didn't think I'd have the clearance for an 8". It was about $60 with shipping. I thought I would try to remove the mount from the existing headlight and weld it onto this new one, but I wasn't having very good luck removing the mount from the new one. After some experimenting, I was able to separate the clear shield from the silver back of the existing headlight. I removed the bulbs. With the new headlight, I removed the ring, pulled out the housing and the glass shield, then put it inside the old headlamp case between the silver housing and the plastic shield. This sandwich effect firmly holds all pieces together without any rattle or jiggle. It also fits perfectly since I'm using the old case. It came with posts and clips to match up the old wiring to the new harness. No soldering needed, just a crimp. Two wires are centered on the back of the new light, and they were easy to route just as the originally wiring. There is room for the wiring harness inside the case. I terminated the rest of the wiring to the headlight at the existing harness under the tank. I don't have a high beam, and it's not entirely DOT approved, but I can see a lot further in the dark, and I am more noticeable during the day. I haven't taken it on a test ride because of other issues, but I am going to be a lot less worried about getting home before dark. I'll post more after a test ride to let you know how it goes.
Hope you get those other issues taken care of Rollenrock, so you can ride. :uhoh:
http://s1074.photobucket.com/albums/...nt=ridewmv.mp4
Juat for the hey of it.
Does anyone know if Old Bike Barns part #of 33339339 or jtr279.35t--- 35t rear sprocket (520have chain) will match the bike on the rear? Or is it too loose of a fit?
Yes it will fit. That is where I bought mine. I went with the 38 tooth. But might try the 35 tooth, later on down the road. But I am happy with the 38.Quote:
Originally Posted by A_Pilot
Sweet! Ill order it today! I want to hold 55-60mph with no vapor lock from throttle...
b.t.w. i figured out if you have less than 1/2 tank it will vapor lock at high speeds or up steep hills, sound abnormal?
Not at all. This the first bike I have ever had that just would't die when it hit researve. It starts missing and dogging. I know then to flip to reserve.Quote:
Originally Posted by A_Pilot
Go figure. Nothing to fret about, just getting use to it. lol
You might cocider the 38 tooth sprocket.Quote:
Originally Posted by A_Pilot
i ordered the 38t, i thought the 35 may be a little ambitious for cincinnati hills... but everyone here drives like a jackwagon so hopefully she'll scoot and climb( sounds like the ultimate test around here)
ive been reading about the gas cap leaking problems, does a hair tie really make a good sealing gasket? its annoying to fill up the tank and have it slopping off the other side...
I have a 37 tooth rear sprocket. I have a few 5 - 8% grades, and there is a long hill with over 1000 feet gained in three miles that starts at 55 mph, increases to 65 near the top. I weigh about 135, and I am able to go the speed limit the entire time. At a stop light, I go from 0 mph immediately to an 8% grade with a posted speed of 45 mph. I am able to keep up with other cars heading up the hill. My base elevation is 3000 feet. My 37 tooth sprocket is not too weak to give me enough torque to get me going. I'm happy with my sprocket, even with the hills that are more like mountains. I live in Southern Utah and I don't think there is a flat spot over a mile long within 50 miles.
A hair tie works wonderful around the gas cap. I wouldn't call it a sealing gasket, it's more of a vapor catcher. I went from a streaked tank to a clean tank unless I spilt fueling up. The band stays put, doesn't interfere with anything, and works wonderfully. I've used the same one since the end of May and haven't rinsed it off or anything.
stock is 15/42 if I recall 2.8 ratio which maxs at about 60 mph
with my car tire and sprocket set up I run about the equivalant of a 32 tooth rear (2.13 ratio for your bike) nearly a 33% increase over stock
17/35 2.05 ratio for my bike with smaller rear tire lowering ratio slightly more (I have fit a 428 chain +17 tooth front sprocket that the 520 chain cannot fit) which dragged about 40% more out of my gears
@ 175 lb I can shift from 4th into 5th at 70 , but if its a pretty hot day which is very common in texas : ( I cannot accelerate anymore without drafting making 5th mostly an overdrive gear on desolate highways , but on a cooler day say 85-90 degree's it pulls cleanly to 80 +(indicated) which is very close to fast lane highway speeds (highways speeds in texas are obscenely high 70-85)
when I got my bike and rode her for the 1st time 1st gear was as can only be described as a stump puller or snow plow gear , going totally unused untill I regeared , now 1st is about where second was then , 4th pulls a fair bit further than 5th did , and my motor humms along at 70-75 instead of screaming at 60
but how u gear it depends on you and where you live , are there alot of hills ? are you as round as you are tall ? whats the average temperature mid summer ?
hilly add a few teeth , heavy too add a few more , I think 35 will work well for ya (2.33 ratio about a 20% increase)
im pretty light and the land is flat for what seems like forever and besides the very middle of summer (a third of our year here) temp low enough to let motor wind out
and the gas condensates onto the tank not really leaking , which a hair tie takes care of , the leaking comes from tank welds breaking : \
Good Morning guys and gals. I'm posting in here cause Tha Heist thread has gone quiet and what the hell. I was a second away from ordering the DF after a dealer tried to sell me a bum Heist as new condition when it had all kinds of issues from rust to sun damage (short version). The deal fell through obviously and I put an order for the DF at Scooterdepot. Then another deal came through for Tha Heist direct from Weaver Rides that same day so I bit the bullet once more.
I'm a total noob with motorcycles but have ridden automatic Scooters for four years. Any noobs here buy the DF? How long did it take to get a handle on shifting the Bobber? Taking off from first without stalling and gearing down before lights etc. A part of me wishes to be back on a lighter bike though I absolutely love Tha Heist's look. Any tips on when to shift in MPH util I get a better feel for the engine telling me when to shift? Tips welcome.
Best,
Xeta
stock gearing ? something like 11 , 22 , 33 , 44
Thanks! Ill try the hair tie thing, and around here we have alot of short steep ones(mostly valleys in cincinnati) but i been riding about 5 years ill just pull tbrottle, here it's the humidity not heat.. average summer has about 80%it humidity almost everyday(jusy shy of Louisiana). The old bike barn was out of 38t
So i ordered a 35t well see how it goes
and as far as shifting?
My opinion for tbe DF is 5,12,20,35,45+