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Blue Loctite 242 is sold all over the world. It can stand temperatures of -54 degrees to 150 degrees Celsius, so it's suitable anywhere on an air-cooled bike apart from the exhaust nuts and bolts.Quote:
Originally Posted by txm123
http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c...2051_108627151
Now I've the battery and it says:
MFA12V7AH
Wuxi Huayan New Power Source CO..LTD
No I'm asking if its the same that batteries free of maintenance they sold for house alarms that are rated 12v 7ah Gel type.
My battery which has exploded has two rows of holes where you can add acid or something like special water.
Which type of battery should I buy?
The best for motorcycles is YUASA, but something like VARTA, ROCKET, etc are also good enough. The important data needed for a sustitution is:Quote:
Originally Posted by txm123
Volts 12
Capacity 7Ah
Dimensions 150*85*94
Distance between Terminals 120mm
It's important that it has the same type of screw terminals. In this size there are lots of SLA (sealed lead acid) batteries sold for UPS's, alarms, etc with only fast-on type push-on terminals on them. These are not suitable as the current drawn by the starter is excessive for those terminals to cope with.
One of the rows of holes are just the pressure relief valves, the other is the electrolyte filler caps.
You can choose between another wet lead-acid battery or a AGM (absorbed glass matt) maintenance-free battery, where the electrolyte is held in a glass-fibre matting and cannot spill.
Ok I'll keep in touch...
Any trick for washing the motorcycle,specially to take out mud and sand from the fins of the engine!!!?
Just soapy water...no magic solution....
I just use soapy water in a bucket and dip a hand sweeping brush in it and stick it between the fins and other nooks and crannies. Sometimes I borrow the washing-up brush from the kitchen sink for tighter spots...when my wife's not looking of course. Even an old toothbrush is useful for small places.Quote:
Originally Posted by txm123
Do you have any idea on how could I make an inexpensive chain breaker?
Before I had a chain breaker I would grind the pins flat to remove the flared or mushroomed head, and then place the chain over a nut so the pin was over the hole in the nut and tap it out with a centre punch. You have to tap one of the pins a little bit and then the other, go back to the first one again and so on to ensure the link comes out evenly. Eventually the centre punch won't fit into the hole vacated by the pins, so the rest of the way was tapped out with a nail.
Hello,this time I'm writing for a friend who is havind the following problem.
His tachometer,or rpm meter after he turns the ignition key on the needle of the meter goes up to the limit 12000 rmps and stays there,no mater how hard he turns the throttle it seams to be the same the gauge is at 12000.It only goes down when he turns of the ignition key.
SO it seams to be an electrical problem,what do you think? Do you know if they pick up from the alternator output?does it have any micro ,inductive coil pickup?any sugestion how can he repair this?
Thanks