Re: My blog of a Jetmax 250
Quote:
Originally Posted by
WirralGhostHunter
hey bikerdoc thanks for the heads up on that one, I will re-attempt to remove the casing again when the weather allows. I want to give it an oil change anyway. One thing you may be able to help me with, I was reading your posts and you recommend hypoid gear oil for the transmission - which makes perfect sense to me - but my manual recommends engine oil - could you let me know which spec hypoid you used.
I can buy Shell 80W/90 here in PRC, without too much effort. It's not available everywhere here, but at least one of the stores that I shop at stocks it, so I buy a few tubes of the oil as needed. Currently have 4 tubes sitting on a shelf in my garage. Same as this gear oil sold in bulk via Taobao http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=...id=9229848577&
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Re: My blog of a Jetmax 250
FINALLY!
Blood, Sweat, Tears...............
Well not quite but nearly..
I got the trans cover off today.
Scoot has around 2.5k miles and I wanted to give the trans an oil change before winter sets in.
The oil I drained out was milky :confused1: is this normal?
Any how, 250ml fresh oil in and I also added 50ml of ZX1 micro oil. I have been using this for years on my cars and I am impressed with the results.
Next oil change for the engine will get similar oil treatment.
While the trans was apart I gave it a good clean with MuckOff degreaser and a hose down, finished of with compressed air.
Tomorrow, weather permitting is a plug change.
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Re: My blog of a Jetmax 250
Quote:
Originally Posted by
WirralGhostHunter
The oil I drained out was milky :confused1: is this normal?
Yes....
When the water is mixed with oil. :icon10:
BTW, since you check from time to time Jetmax's buoyancy, have you considered to apply gasket marker on a tranny cover?
Re: My blog of a Jetmax 250
Quote:
Originally Posted by
WirralGhostHunter
FINALLY!
Blood, Sweat, Tears...............
Well not quite but nearly..
I got the trans cover off today.
Scoot has around 2.5k miles and I wanted to give the trans an oil change before winter sets in.
The oil I drained out was milky :confused1: is this normal?
No, its not normal Rob. I'd say that there is either water that has got in and mixed with the gear oil or else they have used some odd type of oil which might be possible. Might be worth taking a sample of the oil to your dealer to check. Otherwise, run the new oil for 500-1000 miles and then do another change out. Oh and pay attention to riding through areas that are flooded or where the transmission bathes in water. BTW did you take the variator pulley off and check the condition of the 6 roller weights and the variator ramps (the location where the roller weights sit and slide up and down the "ramp" by centrifugal force as the variator spins) If not it is a good idea to do so, as both the roller weights and the ramps suffer wear. I'd suggest replacing the roller weights with "sliders" which are a wedge type of shape, and likely due to the design to cause much less friction between the surfaces of the slider and the variator ramp and ramp walls.
As you pile on the miles eventually you will likely find that the scoot will experience a point in time where it feels as though it trying to take off while stuck in a different gear as though it was a manual transmission. AT first this might happen only periodically, but as the mileage increases it will become more frequent. This phenomenon occurs when trying to move off from a standstill, the scoot will be real sluggish as though it is in a higher gear. Once it gets some momentum it might feel as though it changes down a gear and comes right. What is likely happening is that one or more of the roller weights has/is becoming worn and likely scoring out part of the variator ramp wall too. This causes the affected roller weight to get stuck or caught in a fixed position within the variator thus not returning the centre of the variator as it should. The roller weights need to have free movement up and down the variator ramp. The roller weights are constructed from an alloy with a synthetic surface coating which is likely heat and friction resistant, but does wear out over time through use. When this coating is lost or separates exposing the alloy, this causes the alloy to "cut into" the variator alloy surface causing gouging to occur which in turn hinders the movement of the roller weight leading to loss of proper centrifugal movement and impeded functionality.
Just saying..,
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Re: My blog of a Jetmax 250
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Zorge
BTW, since you check from time to time Jetmax's buoyancy, have you considered to apply gasket marker on a tranny cover?
I don't think this is an option, the cover is designed in such a way that it is vented. Good idea tho'
Quote:
Originally Posted by
bikerdoc
BTW did you take the variator pulley off and check the condition of the 6 roller weights and the variator ramps (the location where the roller weights sit and slide up and down the "ramp" by centrifugal force as the variator spins) If not it is a good idea to do so, as both the roller weights and the ramps suffer wear. I'd suggest replacing the roller weights with "sliders" which are a wedge type of shape, and likely due to the design to cause much less friction between the surfaces of the slider and the variator ramp and ramp walls.
Hey Dennis, I asked the local bike shop about the oil, they reckon it may be that engine oil was used in the gearbox (although Jetmax manual recommends this), I have since refilled it with gear oil and will report back when I change it again in about 1000 miles.
As for the variator, I just couldn't pull it off the splines! I think I may need a puller to just break it away. I have asked the "dealer" (and I use the term loosely) about sliders - and you've guessed it - nothing....
The unfortunate thing in the UK is that Chinese scooters/bikes as only sold through "box movers" there's no service at all, they are assumed to survive the 12 month warranty period and then you are on your own.
I will try and investigate the slider option, as I believe prevention is better than cure.
EDIT - I also swapped out the spark plug for the Iridium variant - I will post on how it performs...
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Re: re-seal and bulb replacement
Hi WirralGhostHunter, I have just replaced my 35 watt halogens with 55 watt globes on my Jetmax and I notice the lens gets rather hot. I did not feel the lens with the lower wattage in so I can't compare. I am a bit concerned about the reflector etc being damaged . Can anyone let me know. Regards
Quote:
Originally Posted by
WirralGhostHunter
Time to re-seal the headlight & indicator lens plus swap out the standard halogens for xenon ones.
I really wasn't looking forward to taking the front of the scoot off again, but I had my new xenon bulbs waiting for over a week on my desk. So I nipped out and purchased a new tube of clear silicone. I was hoping that it was sorted last time, but the amount of water inside was amazing, I'm still not too sure how it gets in, this is both the headlight and indicator enclosures (left side).
From the pic you should make out the water droplets, I initially thought this was on the outside - but oh no! - on the inside...... STRANGE....
On closer inspection I think it is entering along the edge of the lens where it meets the case (see pics).
I dont want to do this again, so the silicone went on, right around both of the culprits - LIBERALLY.........
OK so the left side went back on, the smell of silicone nearly knocking me out, and off comes the right hand side (to swap the bulb).
Grrrr, the clip that holds the lamp in is fouling the outer case - can unclip it - but not lift up...
Grrrrrrr, take out the little screw - drop it on the ground - ten minutes to find it Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr......
Bulb in - clip back - panel back on.
Very happy with the bright white light these little suckers give out.
Now to see if the headlight is waterproof. Wont be long as it hasn't stopped raining.
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Re: re-seal and bulb replacement
You've probably heard of something called Murphy's Law ...
Re: re-seal and bulb replacement
Quote:
Originally Posted by
ethron
Hi WirralGhostHunter, I have just replaced my 35 watt halogens with 55 watt globes on my Jetmax and I notice the lens gets rather hot. I did not feel the lens with the lower wattage in so I can't compare. I am a bit concerned about the reflector etc being damaged . Can anyone let me know. Regards
Hi ethron, I think I recall bikerdoc doing a similar mod before he went the HID route, and he commented on the wiring getting rather warm, I always refer to his posts before I tackle anything (he's virtually taken his Jetmax apart, so he knows it quite intimately. Because of the crazy laws in the UK, I couldn't chance swapping out for HID's, but I did find some alternatives lamps ( I posted them here ). These give a really bright white light compared the the standard yellow light. Although not HID's, they do a really good job. Perhaps I will try and make a night video to show how the perform....
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Re: re-seal and bulb replacement
Well today I gave my trusty steed her 3000ml/4812km engine oil change. I check the oil daily and she doesn't seem to burn any, so today I thought I would measure what came out - exactly 1.5 ltrs... The workshop did it last time so maybe they added a little more than they should have - so as I put in exactly 1.5 ltrs, I'll see what comes out at the next change and let you guys know (I've dipped into the oil filters bikerdoc sorted for me :thumbsup:)
The scoot hasn't stalled on me - I give it a little longer to warm up now - and I feel the iridium plug was well worth the change.
I have some more little mods I plan on doing next week, as the days are getting shorter, nights longer and its getting bloody colder too.
The first simple mod is to fit my new handle bar muffs, they wont make my scoot look any more elegant, but even with winter gloves on, my one hour commute each way is making my hands very, very cold....
I have my new stop/tail light to fit as well, I think I have a position sorted out for this (at present my top box shrouds the brake light. I also have some rather smart mini projector LED running lights (these are freaking bright), I still need to work out where to fit these. Any how here's some pics, I will post again when they are all fitted. Ride safe guys..
Re: re-seal and bulb replacement
Cheers WirralGhostHunter for the reply. I should have said the 55watt halogens are not HID. I just love your Stop/Tail idea and what a great spot for it. My LEDs are Stop only and I would like the Tail light to be on the box as well. I may get one of those LED units. I wanted to upgrade the "running lights" which are dull little push fit globes but found the LED clusters will not fit through the lens hole. Same with the amber flashers, a 20watt globe will not fit through the lens holes and I am thinking of getting LED flashers which are mounted each side higher than the 10watt standard flashers. I have just come back from a ride, only about 20 km and the headlight glass was hot. I just wish I had felt the glass after a ride with the standard halogens fitted. I might be a bit paranoid on this but I don't want them to blow or damage the lens. The higher wattage halogens are heaps better showing a whiter light and further beam. Cheers to All