Quote:
Originally Posted by evokid8
its fairly self explanitory, but like all stuff - if nobody has ever told you then its a black art.
That's like voodoo man.
Printable View
Quote:
Originally Posted by evokid8
its fairly self explanitory, but like all stuff - if nobody has ever told you then its a black art.
That's like voodoo man.
Can anybody confirm this? This would be invaluable info. If mine ever breaks I really dont want to mess with it. Would rather pay for a quality made USA or Jap direct replacement.Quote:
Originally Posted by ben2go
Quote:
Originally Posted by ghost1133
whut? :confused1:
Hello all. I have read the thread and ordered a bobber based on the reviews. (Pictures to follow) When I got mine I pulled the EPA stuff and relocated the ignition switch. Bike now doesn't idle. It will die if no throttle. Unless I have a very small amount of choke on or a small amount of throttle. I assume it is just the Carb adjustment screw needs to be tuned, but I haven't been able to tune it. I have read a few techniques. I am currently on tighten completely then out two turns then adjust with 1/2 turns. I have not broken down the carb for the washer mod nor have I changed the spark plug. An tips on adjusting that screw?
When you removed the EPA system, did you cover the engine port and the hose inlet on the carb?Quote:
Originally Posted by Rungeg
Congrats by the way, good decision, sorry it's a rough start (literally).
Thanks I am enjoying, just have a few nice days in a row and would like to ride. I used original gasket in descent shape and 16g sheet to Fab a cover. I then used a screw for vaccum.
Having the tread, you know that you owe us a picture!Quote:
Originally Posted by Rungeg
I'll post some pics tonight. Just hoping to get an action shot.
Well I did it.. I purchased the brake pads off ebay..they fit exactly. no more worries. Thanks for the assist and I am pleased I can stop now.Still have to work on getting the new clutch cable made.. gonna call them next week and get an order placed.
run , it sounds like you only need to speed up your IDLE - sideways screw , dont mess with idle mix screw-forward facing
even if adjusting mix you need have it so it will sit there and idle well , to be able to set the mix properly
so just start it while sitting on it reach down with shorty screw driver and speed up idle ( by your right knee ) untill it keeps running
I believe your screw may be leaking air , go to local autoparts get a vacume plug cap (about 75 cents) get rid of screw (shoulda done that be4 start adjusting screws :p )
The diagram in the book isn't that great. The idle screw has a spring on it correct. I would stop and get the plug on my way home from work just not sure of size.
they both have springs I believe , but idle screw is hidden behind where the cable assembly attaches to the carb , if you didnt know it was there you would easily miss it , sitting on bike it faces the right side behind throttle assembly
dont know size of cover either , but stop at store look at it go in get 1 and come outside and install , or ask clerk to assist finding right size
I'll try the idle setting first. It was the slight choke allowing it to run made me think fuel mixture.
and the need for choke is what made me think your sucking air
Great Bow, was that the set Alley found?Quote:
Originally Posted by bowtiewagon
yes it was. I took a chance on them even though the measurments seemed to be close.. but they are exact.Now I will order a set for the rear..but I haven't looked at them so i am not 100% they are the same as the front..I think they are.
I was looking for a new stator coil and I ran into a PZ30 with accelerator pump... I was think to myself, what the faq is the difference??? does anyone know where the accelerator pump would be located? I would assume it would be by where the cable would be connected, but I couldn't see a difference.... http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/im.../confused1.gif
Not sure if this would help.. it's a parts list and shows an exploded view of the bike..sort of.http://www.scooterdepot.us/parts_htm..._list.html#f26Quote:
Originally Posted by mrepooh
I have a new issue and wanted to know what you guys think. Seems the sight glass on my brake reservoir is shattered or cracked. It does not leak but I think this may be a safety issue. Here is a pic:
Attachment 8730
I know I can have the glass replaced but since the top screws are stripped I think a replacement would be a better idea. Anyone replace one of these yet? Not sure what to look for. I did find this on ebay but have no clue if it would fit:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Motorc...vip=true&rt=nc
Should I replace this? Opinions and suggestions welcome.
It looks like a "plug&play" swap. Just make sure to use new crush washers on the banjo fitting. I was able to s l o w l y bleed the master cylinder (on My Yamaha 250) by squeezing the lever (with cap off, watching the bubbles).
When done... zip tie the lever to the handlebar, over night, to allow any remaining air bubbles to float up and into the reservoir.
Some Yamaha 250 torque specs: brake hose to m/c 26nm or 19 ft.lbs.
m/c cap screws 2nm or 1.4 ft.lbs.
m/c bracket to handlebar 9nm or 6.5 ft.lbs.
Thanks Mailman. All good info. Guess that's another $50 Ill have to spend on this bike.
Sorry for no pics. I use my cell for my internet and can't figure out the pics. The bike is running great. 200 miles just changed to a 35t sprocket. My original was 45t. Trying to get a few more MPH. Hopefully paperwork gets here soon. I would like to ride with a plate.
Welcome to the "club"!Quote:
Originally Posted by Rungeg
Welcome to the gang. I love my bike, 5800+ miles, and all is good. Still some mods I want to do, but overall awesome. When you can read through the entire post, lots of great mods, and info here. Update on my cable issue.Went down to a local Triumph dealer, and he looked it over...seems my cable was not pivoting in the handle,just bending back and forth which eventually caused them to break.Gotta keep it well greased, and check it regularly.Bought a new cable from him, $25, and he threw in a spare used one for me,just incase.everything working great at this point.Had to modify the outer cable sheild a bit,but still no troubles. New break pads working fine,so i am relieved about that. Next on the list is to go back to the old tank issue.My original tank leaked at those weld mounts,I tried to fix it with JB weld like others mentioned way back, but it did not hold,I had a replacement sent to me through scooter depot at no charge, and left the bolts to hold it on loose enough to relieve any stress on the monuts, but I want to change the tank out completely. Been looking for a new one, but haven't found one yet.My issue with that is not sure about the way some of these tanks mount.we know how the bobber mounts looks, and I have seen some cool looking old school english style tanks..but not sure about the mounts on them.Just wondering... those of you who have changed your tanks, can you post some pics of them,with the mounts? I would like to get a general idea on what the proper mounts would be like. Ride hard, live free folks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rungeg
I believe the 650xs tank fits although I am not 100%. Like a 75. What kind of grips have you all changed to? Also I have a leather tool roll. Thinking of putting a large ubolt on the back fender so I can slide it under the bolt. What do you guys think?
Starting to get a little cooler out around here in the mornings, hit a 55 this morning,had to break out the jacket and gloves to ride into work..unfortunetly it pumps up to like 90 by the time I head home from work..so gotta stow the jacket and gloves in the saddle bags. But love the ride in in the morning time.
Anyone know what the diameter of the handle bars are? I am guessing a inch? And what size the exaust is?
Pretty sure they're 7/8" as on Tha Heist. Exhaust I have no clue.
Your right, 7/8'sQuote:
Originally Posted by xetaprime
Gotta love the weather in Texas!Quote:
Originally Posted by bowtiewagon