Dong Fang DF 250 RTB Bobber Information

GonzoX, The seat cover came with the bike when I bought if of the dealer floor at Mad city Motorsports Madison Wisc, They said they had them made up for them at a leather shop although it’s just “ Faux” Leather with a canvas back. It stretches a bit and has padding under it and then cross Velcro’s underneath very secure. Pretty simple design. I can call them and see if they will sell them separately and cost. Or find out if they can make in other materials. They have the pattern and that’s half the problem, I have to call them anyhow soon to get my cheap emergency tool kit. The seat cover idea actually isn’t bad because you could add( Stuff) way more foam padding and be a bit more comfy than a hard leather seat and it looks pretty clean. Or it could be done the same way but in real leather. Anyhow it was clever. I am sure you could just pull your seat and have it custom covered by a shop for a price. Lots of guys have adapted new seats with bracket work etc, with good luck .
I will post the info when I get it. Great mod for anyone who wants a fast fix of the rubber seatAttachment 9429

Here is another couple of views of the seat cover Attachment 9430Attachment 9431

Oh Yeh... my seat if off to the left a inch ...need to fix with the now famous Jack handle muscle mod!:confused1:

Seat looks sweet.I wanted to ride this morning but the battery wasn't cooperating with me, she just would not start.I know I was due for a new battey, been recharging this one once or twice a week lately, so I have it on the charger now.Hoping to go home at lunch and start her up to ride today. Also have some noises coming from the starter.. but 7540 miles on it, cannot complain if the thing is going out on it.Bad part is ,the starter is the only way to start this thing...no kick start for this bike.I find that odd, most bikes have them.Do they not? Gonna start looking into where and how much one is gonna cost. Anyone have any ideas where to look?

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Originally Posted by bowtiewagon

Also have some noises coming from the starter.. but 7540 miles on it, cannot complain if the thing is going out on it.Bad part is ,the starter is the only way to start this thing...no kick start for this bike.I find that odd, most bikes have them.Do they not? Gonna start looking into where and how much one is gonna cost. Anyone have any ideas where to look?

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I'm seeing them listed with 9, 10 or 11 teeth. And so the searching begins... LOL

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Originally Posted by alleykat

I'm seeing them listed with 9, 10 or 11 teeth. And so the searching begins... LOL

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Listed where??? got a link.

-Bummer , I would definitely Replace or test the Battery first. Not ruling out a bad starter but some but low current, can cause some strange noise from the starter when there is low voltage going to it. One would think you could call Scooter depot and they would have them
In stock. Wishful thinking. They may at least tell where one can get one or correct cross over info.
- For now You can bump start it on payment. Flip the Key, choke on, Kill switch in on position, neutral, Get a push or do what I always
Did when I was a kid. Run along side it in first or second gear with clutch pulled in and dump the clutch when it starts pull the clutch in fast and hop on… Should start easy. This is one nice thing about this light bike. Let us know.

Went to walmart last night and picked up a new battery, did the deed with it, charged it over night, and she cranked up fine this morning..been a week since I could ride her..cause of the weather,now I had a good ride into work this morning,and hope the rest of the day stays fair..we have rain in the forecast. Starter was still a bit fickle though. Like a dead spot in it..so maybe with the extra juice this new battery had,it forced it to work..but I am still gonna keep an eye open for a new one just incase. I do alot of stopping when I run around, I have 7549 miles on her, and I can say that in my running around I may hit like 8 to 10 places and restart that many times pretty much every day or so. So the starter goes through alot.

I was just looking at that starter the other day and wondering how hard it was going to be to find a replacement. When and if you do find one please post it here with a link.

I would imagine Honda has a replacement? The guys at my local Honda shop have been pretty helpful with small items. next time I'm in there I'll ask them if they have anything like it.

A hard tail on these roads? My back would die.. Tho the bike looks very cool.

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Originally Posted by Jonsims

A hard tail on these roads? My back would die.. Tho the bike looks very cool.

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Worth the price of having blood in your urin LOL. But hard to explain to my Doctor.

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Originally Posted by bowtiewagon

Went to walmart last night and picked up a new battery, did the deed with it, charged it over night, and she cranked up fine this morning..been a week since I could ride her..cause of the weather,now I had a good ride into work this morning,and hope the rest of the day stays fair..we have rain in the forecast. Starter was still a bit fickle though. Like a dead spot in it..so maybe with the extra juice this new battery had,it forced it to work..but I am still gonna keep an eye open for a new one just incase. I do alot of stopping when I run around, I have 7549 miles on her, and I can say that in my running around I may hit like 8 to 10 places and restart that many times pretty much every day or so. So the starter goes through alot.

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Fire Hazard Warning/ about the metal battery box/ The other day I installed a trickle charger connection
to the battery so I could just routinely plug the Battery maintainer to the bike, all was installed cleanly with ring connectors.
My friend tripped on the cord the next day as he was admiring the bike and it came unplugged, no problem. I just plugged the connector back and all was good…wrong.
The next night I went to the garage to turn lights off for the night and I saw white smoke coming from the Battery box and then flames. Oh crap my bike is on fire. I ran to the bike and yanked the flaming wires off the bike to no avail. White smoke was now pouring from the box with plenty of sizzling noise and then stopped suddenly. I opened the Garage door to flush the thick smoke out of the garage and carefully started to take all the leads off the battery and then opened the Battery cover to remove the burnt wires.
What had caused the fire was obvious as I saw where the positive wire had stripped the insulation off it and was touching the side of the very well grounded battery box due to the cord pull from the tripping incident. This is a obvious danger of having a metal battery box that is metal and grounded to boot.
Everyone be careful of terminals of stock or replacement batteries shorting out, and the use of added hardware like alligator clips, plug in terminals. I am going to try to rubber line it using 1/16th thick rubber sheet, and also make the terminal holes bigger as suggested at the top of the box also. Had I had not caught this fire by pure luck, the entire house may of burned down. No real easy solution here but is a area that we all need to address. A direct short on a battery is dangerous as I know all too well.
Sorry for the long post…

Wow glad to hear you had nothing worse out of it. as well as the info. I had to replace my original battery in about a week after I started ridding. Those chinese batteries aren't that good. I found a great replacement from walmart..trouble was, it was like maybe 3mm taller than the original battery and would not fit in the box.Sooo,I modified the box by actually cutting the top off the box,creating a new latch for the top side of the door,and a strap to put over the battery in the middle. So now the battery is basically in the open are on the top and the terminals do not touch anything.I had always thought the original configuration of the box was a bit hazardous with such little room to attatch the lugs to the posts..with the top being so close to them. So kinda glad I had to do what i did.

That seat is Awesome!

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Originally Posted by Goodbar

Here is another couple of views of the seat cover Attachment 9430Attachment 9431

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Originally Posted by ktmracer

That seat is Awesome!

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Thanks , The shop that made this cover is looking for the pattern. If he has it, I will post his number, he could make these slip on covers with padding in any material color etc.,for anyone fairly inexpensively with out having to send your seat in or remove it. I will post when I hear back from him. BOWTIEWAGON, bummer the box isn’t just a hair bigger to accommodate readily available batteries. As far as the battery box I am just going to line the top of the inside with black duct tape and a cloth tape over that to help prevent shorts from hidden trickle charger quick connect wires that I will hide in the box as I did in the past with hazardous results. I will also machine cut the post openings bigger. Any other ideas suggestions from members on Battery box mods would be highly appreciated, I don’t want to compromise the looks of the bike too much. Bowtie you should post a pict if you get time of your Box Mod.

Ok, so I just got home and low and behold my new jets are here! Grabbed my tools and ran to the garage to install them! I went with the 108 main and 42 low. I noticed that the stock low was a 40 so i just left it and installed the 108 in place of the stock 88. While it was open I also installed 2 #4 washers under the needle. I must say, IT'S A WHOLE NEW BIKE!!! It pulls so smooth and hard now. I rode it 12 1/2 miles to work each direction yesterday, it was choking and pulled like a dead turtle. My new 35t rear sprocket should be here tomorrow along with my new rear markers and mirror clamps for relocation. Will post pics when installed.

Congrats on the "win" carb mods Slullworks! Did you have to mess with the air mixture screw at all?
I am going to do the same thing mine was a Nov 2010 bike so it prob has the 88 main jet also.
I just recieved my 35 tooth sprocket today also. JTR 279 -35 It has a indent on one side I take it that that side goes towards the inner hub?

yup inner hub

I had changed my battery fairly early on , new batt not fit well so , angle grinder and cutoff wheel to batt box , repaint and reinstall (didnt take top off just made the SMALL corner openings LARGE corner openings

Attachment 9492Attachment 9493Attachment 9495Attachment 9496

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Originally Posted by DanDaMan

yup inner hub

I had changed my battery fairly early on , new batt not fit well so , angle grinder and cutoff wheel to batt box , repaint and reinstall (didnt take top off just made the SMALL corner openings LARGE corner openings

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-One thing that I love about The DF250RTB Bobber is the complete lack of plastic, it is a steel bike, plain and simple.
But there was one piece that was a eye sore to me and cheapens the look of the bike by making it look less old school.
The Black plastic Crankcase Breather filter that connects to the electrical box ( fake oil tank… and then the crank case. This hunk of plastic isn’t even a real filter as it just narrows to a 1/16th hole inside it to help keep oil out of the Fake oil tank.
-Mod I made was to purchased a nice looking 3 “ billet fuel filter made by Spectre Part 2379 for 3/8” fuel lines. It has two steel tubes one at each end. I attached one side to the crank case using the original ” S ” tube by inserting a small 1 inch long small diameter silicone hose inside to bring down the size a bit for a tight fit and the other end to the Pseudo oil tank using a 3 inch section of the same silicone tubing and the covering it with a chrome thin trim spring to hide clamps.
- I will eventually add a termination breather filter ( Spectre Part Number 3995 to the end of the long filter (It fits good on the end of the fuel filter) so I do not have to run the breather end into the fake oil tank any longer.
Has anyone… after a bunch of riding had any oil back up Into their electrical box?
Anyhow it gives the bike a boost at the clean engine look by getting rid of the Big Hunk of plastic and having the part now go straight across parallel with the horizon for a super clean look and adding more quality to the bike.

Attachment 9502Note / The last picture is the termination filter i will add so I dont have to go into the electrical box with the breather. I just need to make a stiff wire support for the two filters so they are secure. Not really a good place for a breather to end up ( probably safe but seems a bit dangerous to me with fumes going in a electrical box that could have potential fuel vapors in the oil that is evaporating out) and then potential for sparks ... This photo is a top down photo showing the way it is now, going straight into the Oil tank

I was curious if anyone knows if this exhaust will fit our bikes? I emailed CCW and asked but they had no idea.

http://ganddist.com/heist-performance-exhaust-shor/

Oh, and Goodbar can you post linke to parts? Looks good! I'll snap a pick of the new mirror placement for you tonight. The rear blinkers were a wash though. Turned out they were cheap plastic parts although they claimed to be chromoly. Oh well, they only cost me $5 from china

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Originally Posted by skullworkz

Oh, and Goodbar can you post linke to parts? Looks good! I'll snap a pick of the new mirror placement for you tonight. The rear blinkers were a wash though. Turned out they were cheap plastic parts although they claimed to be chromoly. Oh well, they only cost me $5 from china

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Looks like the exhaust would fit perfect. One would think it "Should" have the same exhaust bolt spacing and mount. Just make sure their return policy dosent include a big restock fee.
--SKULLWORKZ: The Parts I got to Mod the Crank case breather were both a instock pep boys items. You really only need the double tube Fuel filter with the grooves from Spectre and a short piece of 3/8th fuel line or silicone tube. ( I posted their part number a few posts back) If you run it back into the oil tank. it was about 9 bucks and
its nice chromed aluim. LINK http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPECTRE-PERF...c47a99&vxp=mtr
--I never cared for the heist exhaust before as it messed up the lines of their bikes in my HO. The shorty looks nice, but will turn blue most likley and isnt much different then what we have now unless it adds a bit more hp ,really like the stock Exhaust pipe on the DF, I think they got it right. Keep us posted.

:thumbsup:Attachment 9503
These are available in many Dia. I bought a variety of sizes to cover some of the bolts on the bike. they are very nice quality and if you are interested in dressing up your bike, they are my first choice but not that cheap.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Spectre-Perf...a82695&vxp=mtr

This is just one size. One can install them over bolts many ways.

Ok, so I just installed the 35t sprocket and removed 4 links from the chain. I found that once the sprocket was installed it was not the same thickness as the OEM part was and had to fab up some shims to tighten it up. Used some really thin sheet metal. While I had the rear wheel off I removed those hidious turn signals and replaced them with some shiny new washers and acorn nuts. Copied Goodbars crankcase MOD with my own twist, still working on a mount. Used a black ziptie for the time being, going to look for something while I'm at the shop tomorrow. Installed new mirror clamps and moved them in quite a bit. If I didn't think the police would give me a hard time I would remove them altogether. Going to install mini LEDs for the rear blinkers on the inside of the rear dropouts like these http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-L...47c774&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-H...b1b&vxp=mtrAnd going to remove front blinkers and install these

Attachment 9510Attachment 9511Attachment 9512Attachment 9513Attachment 9514

Also replaced those silly phillips head screws that bolt the crank cover on with nickel plated allen head bolts

Attachment 9515Attachment 9516

Ordering a new seat after Christmas. Going with a steel seat pan, no cover and no padding http://www.ebay.com/itm/Solo-Seat-pa...01392d&vxp=mtr

And welding it directly to the original bracket. Powercoat it matte black or gloss black that is the question?

Looking Good Skullworkz! , Like the allen bolt idea also... yep the screws dont cut it. I dont have a source of metric chrome nuts and bolts/allen bolts yet? So you terminated your crank case breather. I plan on that also as soon as I figure out a clean support. Figured out a pretty cool Mod for Electric Tank and its only 5 bucks. It will dress up the fake oil tank, Hide the hose clamp and make it look way better included is a reflector mod that keeps the saftey but gets rid of the cheap Relector look. I see you took yours off/ I'll post picts Monday. Total cost for these oil tank mods only 5 Bucks and 10 min total install time. Hope you Post some picts of your crank breather filter mount when done.
Have a Great Holiday!
Goodbar

Goodbar, I have found that any local bicycle shop will probably have a collection of nice metric nuts and bolts in their scrap drawers. Thats where I found mine as I am a bicycle mechanic. Figured out how I am going to mount the crankcase breather, I have some really nice bicycle fender mount round stock that I am going to use. I will shape it like the hose mounts that are already on the bike and it's in chrome already. Looking forward to seeing your oil tank mod. I am still looking for a new canister idea to replace mine altogether. I may copy a past post and us two stainless steel measuring cups. But, I would really like to use one of these: http://crystalheadvodka.com/welcome