buying them in your state is the way to go , they register it and get the plates for ya
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buying them in your state is the way to go , they register it and get the plates for ya
Haven't been on on in awhile. Sorry. The bike is still for sell. Got a lot of lookers and people wanting to trade. I still start it up some a let it run and it still runs perfect.Quote:
Originally Posted by ben2go
Got my new seat today! Here's the progressAttachment 9625Attachment 9626
Skullworkz: Looks good and clean, Not too comfy looking though. As I remember your not doing springs either? Is your shop heated at all or are you toughing it out. I am going to buy a motorcycle jack today so I can get to my new sprocket. I just added black braided line covers over the larger rubber hoses , Turned out nice. My seat springs and and adapters will be here Monday. Your the man Skullworkz! Attachment 9627Attachment 9628Attachment 9629
Lots of you Removed these lines to move your ignition down. I just covered the lines for now.
Goodbar: I don't have a garage or a shop! I have a basement and a large wooden shed. Nope, it's not heated and it's cold as hell out there! Looking good on the hose braid! I was thinking of doing the same thing, but I wanted to do stainless. Oh, and I have found that a cinder block and a very thin piece of plywood works great for getting the rear wheel off the ground. The frame is nice and flat and if you use the wood you wont scratch the frame. The bike is light enough to pick the back end up by your self. I haven't found a reason to buy a bike jack yet.
I Like working on the bike but dont know if it would be much fun in the cold. You are one tough and dedicated enthusiast. If your doing the stainless lines Id stay clear of the stainless steel braid sleeve as that shit is hard as hell to work with because it un-ravels fast on the ends. not to mention the steel slivers that hurt like hell. Id go with the premaid lines with the rubber lined billet clamps built into the ends, a bit spendy but so is the braid sleeve. I am going to use stainless premade lines for fuel lines ( where it counts) and bowl drain. The black braid sleeve is super easy to work with if you slip both your clamps on before you cut it and melt the ends with a lighter. I lubed the rubber lines and the braid with armoral before hand, it helped me pull it really tight for a sharp fit . They have fake plastic chrome look stainless steel braid, but looks to sparkly and cheap. The black looks good and is smooth satin. Got a decent roll on ebay for a few bucks. I have a 11 inch tall Motorcycle stand, Ill try to muscle it on, I forget how light this bike is. The Motorcycle Jacks I looked at would of taken up too much valuable garage space so I passed on the only one I found at Menards today . If you ever need any custom super quality weatherproof gloss laminated precut and printed or unprinted Vinyi graffics for your tank sides or other area let me know, I have a full size printer cutter. The ones we do look just like paint, Just need your art by email. You never said if your putting coil or torsion suspension on your seat?Quote:
Originally Posted by skullworkz
Seat is going to the same other than the saddle. I am going to install an air shock in the same position as the OEM eventually.
For those of you that have changed the bars on these bikes I have a couple questions:
1st: Did you go with a 1" or 3/4" bar?
2nd: Did you install bar-ends?
3rd: How difficult/easy is it to change over the grips and starter?
Thanks.
7/8" is OEM, bar are easy to change out. Just give the grips a firm pull and twist at the same time. BE SURE TO UNHOOK ALL THE WIRES TO YOUR CUTOFF SWITCHES FIRST!Quote:
Originally Posted by sivilized
Sanding and primering
Progress on fake oil tankAttachment 9654Attachment 9655
Hey everyone,
So I have to tell you that the reason I am building this bike is because I had a bike stolen from me the very day it was finished and debuted at the Woodward Dream Cruise. On my way home it was stolen not 5ft from me. As you could imagine I was devastated and searched in vein to recover this bike. Posted ads on CL and sent emails to all the local shops giving them the heads up and even driving around in grids looking for some dumba$$ riding my bike and giving him a fat lip. Spent hours in the police dept talking to the detectives. And believe it or not it was for a bicycle! A $2000 BICYCLE! So, after I came to terms with the fact that I may never see that bike again I decided that I needed to replace that bike. But, for $2000 I could have something else? I started doing my research for NEW $2000 motorcycles and I came across the 5!50 bobber. I was going to buy this bike but lucky for me they have crappy service and they NEVER called me back, EVEN after I called them and left a message that I was ready to drop the cash! I found the DF250 right after that and I couldn't be happier! Below are pics of my custom Electra Ghostrider with 3spd right hand jockey shifter, 115db airhorn, neon lights, bullet headlight, custom saddle, ect... What you have seen here is a/ and will be a documented account of my replacement build for this bicycle. Attachment 9666Attachment 9667[ATTACH=CON
This build has been on a budget from China and Ebay. All paint other than OEM has been rattle can. MODS have been from the hardware store and bicycle shop. Seat from ebay and welded myself with a borrowed welder. Hired someone from CL to make the fake tank for $25 and tipped him $5. And, by the way he did a better job that I was expecting! I fashioned the "casket lid" from spare bicycle parts from the shop I work at. Mirrors from China $8, mirror clamps $5, LED blinkers (rear) $12, rear fender bolts (mounts) free from bicycle shop, Crank case MOD from O'Rielly's is a Mr. Gasket glass fuel filter and a Spectra cone filter. I used the tubing from the EPA crap for the new stuff to make the crank case stuff. Drag bars from SinCity cycles on Ebay for $13 shipped. Relocation of plate and taillight FREE, got a piece of stainless steel from a shelf hanger (most retail stores have these in brushed about 13" long) drew it out with pencil and cut with a hacksaw. Cleaned up the cuts with an air grinder. Leftover paint for most of this
Wow Skullworkz thats an amazing bummer story with a great ending! Cool Bike! It is pretty devastating to loose something you worked so hard on and so fast. Congrats on channeling that energy to getting the DF250 RTB to be your own. Looking forward to seeing your finished bike and the updates on the progress. You have proved what can be done without spending a ton of money with just resourcefulness Keep posting!
MOD IDEA: Here is what I am going to replace the Plastic oil tank with. A trip to Target store turned up this 19.00 buck 3pc Polished Stainless canister set. The next down from the largest size is a perfect size match to the DF250RTBs FAUX oil tank. It’s a nice nickel coated stainless part with a perfect size viewing window on the side that is covered with a tough plastic window that will be perfect to drill out the 2 large holes for the left and right rear wire groupings. I will then install 2 rubber sheet-metal grommets from
"Metro Moulded Parts inc" http://www.metrommp.com/ they have thousands of weatherstripping, grommets, pedal pads universal molded rubber parts etc. Then just drill out two small holes for the bracket attachment points. PLUS /It has a very snug and waterproof silicone seal for the side lid cap that pops off with plenty of force so no latches will be needed... for a supper clean look. I will install for looks only a real billet oil filler cap near the side and top. Ill post picts when done. should be a fairly easy install. Attachment 9677Attachment 9678 Those are my 5 inch seat springs that will installed in conjunction with the existing mono spring to give more support for my 190 pounds
Yeah, I considerd that same canister from Bed Bath and Beyond. But, it just was not the look I was looking for. I'm going to be installing my new fake tank today. I will post pics when finished.Attachment 9687Attachment 9688Attachment 9689
Ok, so I ran into some unforseen issues while I was installing my new "tank". My design was sound but I didn't take into consideration as to where the lid fixing bolts would fall. The one on the bottom left side fell directly into the hot battery terminal, so it had to be removed. I left the bolt in the lid to kinda balance it out and so there wasn't a blank hole to make you stare at it. Everything fit SUPER snug, I mean there was no room to budge, if it had been any bigger it would not have fit! I placed some double sided foamy tape to each side where it made contact with the battery box and the fiberglass rear fender. All and all I think this did wonders for the look of this project. My new grips/blinkers will be here tomorrow, I think. If so, then expect pics of those when they are done. Goodbar how did your tank turn out? Cant wait to see the pics of that tank, as that was the one I was really leaning toward
Skullworkz, that looks nice, I know its a coffin but I like the angles and the fact it looks like its really part of the Frame and bike. It actually looks more factory than the plastic round one. Bummer about the terminal and the latch. it is what I worry about the unforseen forgot about that crap . I am super slow on the tougher mods. Today I just worked on designing the spring brackets where they attach to the seat, the stock seat is kind of a strange set up and my seat is 2 inches off to the left, so I need to straighten it out without busting anything. I am adding side springs but will keep the Monoshock also on it. Everyone takes it off when they add side springs. Did your new seat go on perfectly straight after you welded the new brackets on the new seat. Maybe I will have to discard my old seat after all.
So what are you planning after grips and the blinkers are done? no doubt your hooked on mods and wont stop yet. I looked for vintage looking grips yesterday but didnt order yet, what did you choose? By the way the seat looks great.
Attachment 9720Attachment 9721
Hey guys - sold my DF last weekend, but kept the saddle bags - will probably put them on Craigslist for $120 for the set - but wanted to know if any of you may be interested - they are old school leather la rosa bags and probably cost me around $200 new when I got them in July last year - they're in perfect condition - send me an pm if you're interested.
Goodbar these are the grips I am using http://www.ebay.com/itm/150965208324...84.m1497.l2649Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodbar
The seat was off a little so before I welded it on I set it all on the bike to make sure it was staight. I used the old bracket from the OEM seat and didn't have to do any cutting, it happened to be the correct size after all. After the grips will be the headlight and then the risers I think. Here's the headlight http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-ME...0d9dc7&vxp=mtr
And the risers I am looking at but in a 7/8" http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Black-Bill...-/380477147658
And these levers http://www.ebay.com/itm/KURYAKYN-CHR...10989633113%26 They offer them in cable clutch, pic is just for reference
Ok check out all the links, That’s some pretty custom looking stuff Skullworkz! You will probably have everything installed the day they all come in to boot.
Today I just installed my battery tender plug in socket hopefully ( I think) properly by lining the battery box and terminal openings with Plastic u channel and running the wires were they hopefully never short out again. That alone took me 3 hours to figure out how to prevent future problems and get a clean look.
- My bud is bringing his Black DF over to start polishing and moding it. He has a 2 car Garage that is too full to get at it.
- Last night I rubbed my whole bike out using Scratch Doctor compound/ in the small orange bottle at Wal-Mart or any store/ it’s an extremely fine polishing compound you just apply to a 100 percent cotton Rag and use elbow grease. That really brought out the shine of the clear coat and the black on the engine and rims/ spokes/ chrome. I also did the frame, while still satin flat it has a bit of a sheen that will be easier to wash ( what a difference it made on the whole bike ) Made the paint look very rich deep and expensive. I am amazed at how thick the clear coat is on these bikes.
Don't let that paint fool you, it's not that great. If you tap it with anything hard you are going to get a chip right down to the metal. So, on that note don't tap it with a wrench handle like I did in a few places on accident. I really don't care as I will be painting my bike this summer. I hate the stupid stripes they stuck on, AND they are stuck on crooked! Also going to fill all the holes in the fender left over from rear lights being relocated when I do have it painted. Still going to be blue but much nicer. Goodbar, have you had a chance to ride your bike yet? It's supposed to be in the 50s this saturday here, I'm going to be on my bike for sure. I haven't really had a chance to ride my bike since I installed the new 35t sprocket. You can bet I will be tearing down 8 mile come saturday. Grips didn't show up today, they will be here tomorrow.
It chips because they prob didnt even prime it and its so thick. I havent chiped it yet but
I can picture that pretty easy. I will repaint mine also for sure this year. I can only imagine how cool the DF would look with a really perfect Paint Job and Body work, even painting and finishing the frame is tempting. Yeah I hear its going to warm up. I only rode it when I bought it but ran pretty bad then. So if the road out of here melts its ice I'll go for a spin.
I have My friends black DF here also and His frame is a bit different above the oil tank with 2 reinforcement plates welded in to make the frame stronger. He has a December 2010 build and even his front disc brake rotor is totally different. Also he has a front Brake line Bracket whereas the Nov Builds dont Have one, just a hole where it is supposed to be. I need one as the hose is chaffing in the front tire. Saftey issue here! Maybe we should call and get one scooter depot where they originated. His front rotor looks way better as it matched the rear one.
I believe we have a Nov build. His Bike wont start unless we spray a bit of starting fluid in Carb, it is prob gummed up from that damm Ethenol varnish goo. I now get all my Gas for storage of toys at the Airport no ethenol and high quality.
Skulworkz did you see this: Attachment 9735 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-R-...935a81&vxp=mtr
I like it but I have already purchased the stainless steel that I installed. I'm looking for more of a spike for my breather filter. More like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/rtn-Black-Sp...f12fad&vxp=mtr
Got the grips/blinkers installed last night. I will get some daytime pics for you later today. Got to reposition the mirrors again due to the new Attachment 9736Attachment 9737grips sitting differently on the bike than the OEM grips did.
Very cool spiked carb filter. The web look one was suggested for your Crank case breather termanation end, they have them in black too and they are a whopping 5 bucks. Looking forward to the daytime picts.
What length pullback do you guys have on your drag bars? Or are they straight across (0")?
3.84"Quote:
Originally Posted by sivilized
And, Goodbar here are those daytime picsAttachment 9741Attachment 9742
Can't wait to get rid of that headlight! Loving the bike without the big blinkers! My wife said the new grips looked like d!ldos, guess they would be kinda fun on bike night!:rolleyes1:
Sivilized: My new 7/8 bars are sweeped Back 7 inches from bar center to end of grips. You would need long arms to reach straight bars, or ride on the tip of the seat. I am 6 ft and mine fit me perfect. I like to sit a little leaned back on the bike.
Skullworkz Looks good, if you get a chance post some closer picts of the grips and the turn sigs.
In ref to your wifes comments: Its just another subliminal reason the ladies will dig your bike.:eekers:
I did a few more simple super cheap detail Mods I will post when I get some time later tonight.
Skullworkz did saferwholesale give you any tracking info when you ordered your bobber? i ordered from them over a week ago and havent heard a thing.