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Are you getting a back fire through the carb or after fire through the exhaust?Through the exhaust would indicate a lean condition caused by removing the emissions tube.That will required a rejet.Crap blocking an orifice in the carb would cause backfiring through carb.Also sticky intake or tight intake valve can cause it along with ignition timing problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by Crelow
Crelow is your bike a Nov or December 2010 build? If u got the Nov model, did you rejet your carb on it?
I'm thinking maybe one of these.
http://www.roguemotorsportz.com/i601...Fag7MgodpAoAPA
Ok this is what I can tell you. This has happend since day 2. The day I went to pick it up the guy had the bike warmed up. I think it happens less when the bike is warmed up. Not 100% certain. I think it's either back fire or exhaust. A white puff appears from the air filter not certain what that is. This has happend before the smog mod. But I'm loving the fact that the popping has ended and I would imaginge the noise comming form that contraption.
The bike build date shows DEC 2010
I thought removing the emission tube and the pump was supposed to help eliminate the lean condition and fix the jet problem?
Hey everyone, Ill throw in my 2 cents on a few of the debates going on air filters and popping or backfiring thru the carb. Back firing thru the carb on these things is a bit of a problem just until warmed up but it can be minimized to (almost) zero by making sure of the following: all have to be done:
A correct jets so not too lean 105 main and 42 idle jet,at least a 105 all the way to 110 108 is what I run
Warm the bike to temp, take a sharpie and mark the carb adjustment screws and threads so you know were it is now.
B Carb adjusted ( very sensitive to slightest turn of the air fuel screw the one facing the manifold) use the screw driver bit from a interchangeable screw driver and rev until smooth and popping out of the carb goes away or is at the least. tiny adjustments make huge differences on this carb and bike engine, tweak till it revs fast and smooth.
C adjust the Low speed carb or idle speed) last so it runs not too slow or too fast/ sensitive also
Remember that just a tiny turn one way or the other makes a huge change on these things once it gets into the sweet spot.
Whats odd about carb backfiring as it can be from too lean or too rich but if its too lean one cannot get rid of it. In fact this carb back firing could damage your engine as it stops the crank and kills the engine, so address it. Also a # 4 washer under the needle later on will smooth it out even more as it will just speed up throttle response. Really this carb is a breeze to work on as it’s so simple that beginners should not be afraid to tackle anything on it. If you can get a friend to give you moral support and lend a hand.
D take it for a ride if you can and you can tweak it even a bit more. Put a tiny drop of lock tite on the Carb adjust screw when you love the ways it runs
Yes the Valves are also no doubt all over the map in adjustment and do this after 500 miles at least. if you feel performance is lacking badly otherwise wait till break in is complete.
These little but great engines are really tight when new and will smooth out greatly with every 1000 miles.
The wire screen air filters all suck, no pun, they should be lightly oiled but for total protection of dust and silt I recommend a 42 MM KN paper type it will breath good and won’t let any particles past, down side is really can’t be washed out completely just blown off and wiped with a stiff brush and they are useless in the rain.
So it’s all a compromise. The carb jets mainly the low speed jet has a almost microscopic hole in it and will clog fast from our crappy gas, The good thing is the bike wont idle or start if its plugged. Get a 5 buck jet cleaning kit off ebay. The smallest wire in that kit barely fits thru the slow speed jet but works. It takes nothing at all to plug jets half way. I use aircraft gas 91 octane lead free you can buy at any county airport for 4.50 a gal. get 5 gallons if you don’t ride Much and add fuel stabilizer. Also add a clear proper fuel filter with a 1/4 " ends on it. This will keep your bike dependable/ change it once a year as they are only 3 bucks.
Anyhow the link that freezer boy has up for a air filter is the one I run now as it is a finer mesh than stock
a very, very light oiling with 10w 40 on a rag is all one needs on it to keep 99 percent of the crud out but offers no Guarantee.
I wish someone mfg a finer mesh wire type but there is none available. adding a small oiled foam piece in there may help but a slight carb adjustment may be needed to decrease the fuel mixture also.
Just remember the carb jets blow stuff out on their own and the main reason they get clogged is not dust and dirt but fuel that has turned into varnish and crystallized.
Anyhow sorry for the long post/ Ill throw some mod picts up in a minute and the pict of the bracket all owners of the DF need to check to make sure the speedo cable is secured because its white block connector will catch the turn signal wires and they are connected to the main harness and will rip wires right and left and could even be a fire hazard.
By removing the smog crap one is really not doing a ton but giving the bike fresh air VS air that has VOCs which one could argue is unburned gas vapor that could make the bike richer in the gas dept but lower in the O2 dept. Either way taking it off needs a carb adjustment tweak, a tiny tweak. Once that tweak is made your bike should run better. Lots of factors here but that really is the fun part of dialing it in so its yours and then you really feel like you own it and control it. I also worry that your caps some of you have made may be leaking a bit. bI would really use thick gauge steel and seal it with a silicone sheet gasket and tighten it good. Lots of pressure in there one does not want to lose.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodbar
Thank you so much for the info.
Ill post a vid as soon as I can.
Attachment 10333Attachment 10334Attachment 10335Attachment 10336Attachment 10337
Sorry the pictures got out of order The important one is the speedo bracket.
I made this one as his was missing and really caused havoc with all his wiring.
double check this bracket is there and tight and tightened on the thick part of the speedo cable not the thin part of it.
The other picts is a neat way to add old school look springs correctly to your original seat as this bracket fits under the origianl seat and uses the bolts that are allready on the seat/ no alterations needed. Plus the 2 extra springs make the bike look way better and more old school and the mono spring is still there for even more support and spring action.
Then Skullworkz wifes shop can make you a custom seat cover loaded with gel or foam in anything you could dream of as they have the seat pattern ready to go, I am going to order a cooler looking cover soon from them, mine is pretty plain jane. Their work is amazing! The link is on forum.
Bob ,Hopefully the pict is clear enough on the bracket!
:bling::bling:Your welcome Crelow...ever wonder why one forgets how to spell when typing in a forum? Gee sorry for all the typosss.
Your carb back firing is really a routine adjustment/ no worries/ mine was so bad it was like a grenade launcher when I picked up. In fact so bad it killed the engine every time it burped thru the carb. Now she runs smooth as silk. Remember were really doing our own Pre Delivery Inspection on these bikes. If it was a Yamaha dealer they would adjust all this stuff before you recieved it but they are 5K. You saved money and this is one of the reasons, you are now your own dealer mechanic paying yourself to get it running perfect. In the long run ownership will be so much more satisfying.
POP POP BANG POP
The occasional pop out of the exhaust just lets me know shes alive. It for sure will make people duck for cover and call 911
:gun_bandana:
Bob, The bike rally sound huge for the area, yeh it will get a ton of attention.
guys with 30K bikes will be going hmmm. Throw some custom gold or silver vinyl laminated symbols or name on there for a tank badges and it will really keep them guessing. If anyone needs something just go to fast signs and bring your art, but have them laminated so they will last. I think it costs like 20bucks for 2 ea.
TIP If you get some Nu finish scratch doctor and a clean 100percent cotton rag and you rub the paint all out with a bit of pressure and elbow grease, the paint on these bikes gets super glossy as the clear coat is so thick. I did all the paint on the tank and fenders and even the frame and yes the engine and it adds a permanent shine that will really wow, and it is even amazing to touch. Try a patch if you dont believe me. This stuff is the finest of fine rubbing compounds and It really is night and day difference to those that like shiny and glossy and want there bike to look more detailed....I like Shiny:bling::bling::bling: Its another 7 buck mod that will keep you outa the wifes hair for 1 more evening
Attachment 10338
Thanks Goodbar, The more I know you the more I know. I'll get some of that stuff and rub it out. We don't have the custom decal outlet here but threre are plenty on the net. I've done a couple of custom sewing machines and the decals look great.
I've found some useful information on the net about engine break in and a repair manual for a 125cc honda that our engine is a clone to.
I'm not sure where all these adjustment screws are but the carb in the manual looks the same as ours and the brief look over I gave it is pretty detailed on adjustments.
Got to get to work.
Thanks againAttachment 10351Attachment 10352Attachment 10353
Started it this morning and seems to be ok. Not once did I hear a hiccup or noise from the carb. Ill run over to the HomeDepot and get the washer soon.
The Air Induction has NO influence on the combustion chamber! It's purpose is to add air to the exhaust port to complete the rich mixture burn,hence the popping on deceleration (it is an emissions thing).
Fine tuning the carb is another matter altogether.
HIGHPERFORMANCEPZCAEBURETOR.pdf (application/pdf Object)
Sir Maillman: I always believed our version of smog crap valve worked both ways both adding air to emmisions for a reburn and reburning any unburned fumes again thru the carb,again as a recycle, But you are probably correct. One would thing either way a leak at the homemade cap wouldnt be a ideal situation,. Ill read your PDF link. ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by SR.MAILMAN
Automobiles use a different system/method and that may be where the confusion comes from.
Yesterday I must have done a hair more than finger tight on the thank. Suggestions on repair? Epoxy/ jv weld or get it welded? So far is just a drip.
If you read back a bit, some other people were having the same issue. They used JB Weld and sanded smooth after drying. If I remember correctly they make a petro safe mix. I am going to install my headlight soon and will be doing this method to prevent a leak when I put it back on, thus preventing any future issues. Also, on that note! If you haven't Kreem'd your tank by now you may want to soon, I'm starting to notice rust inside the tank. And, as anyone knows this is going to be an BIG issue. So that means I'm going to be doing the light sooner than later, so I can coat the tank.Quote:
Originally Posted by Crelow
I think I'll fix the leak for now and then get a really good filter. I don't think that's the tank for me. But I need to keep something on for now.
I like this one
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-645010
:clap:
Thanks Chruk,
Ill keep it in mind. All job welded this morning but not sure if I fully got into the areas it needed most. Ill check it in a few hours. While working on the bike I took the carb apart to see what kind of jets I had. It's the 40/105. And looked at the needle to see there is only one groove for the clip. So my question is do I still need the washer? Or was the adjustment was based on the old carbs with smaller jets. I just wonder if with the new needle needs the extra hair of space
Here a pic of the needle. Attachment 10363
Crelow, If you have the 105 jets in your carb I believe the needle was already raised so you should be good to go as I remember. You may want to clean your jets to be sure they are gum free. Remove and shine a bright LED flashlight thru the hole. Or just clean them with a jet kit to be sure they are open. The shim under the needle won’t really make it run better but gives it quicker throttle response. I would also focus on fine adjustments to carb or major ones on your air fuel mix screw and your idle screw/ and get a good NGK spark plug and gap it per specs. Below are just some random tips and general ones.
If your carb backfiring is a “intermittent” problem then maybe a jet is partially clogged.
NOTE: A rich problem gets worse as the engine heats up.
. NOTE: A lean problem gets better as the engine heats up.
Just a quick revealing test to get a better understanding...
If the bike seems to be lean then partially cover the intake to the air filter housing with duct tape, if the carburetor improves it is running lean.
Excessively lean carburetor settings can contribute to backfiring thru the carb. If the mixture is too lean, it may burn very slowly and unevenly. This condition, in turn, may result in burning mixture remaining in the cylinder until the beginning of the next intake stroke when it can ignite the incoming air/fuel mixture. Partially clogged jets from our ethanol gas sitting in the carb contributes to this condition. Gum and crystals form a clog.
Screwing in is richer and out is leaner , so try 1/2 a turn at a whack or do tiny 1/8th turns ( I found that my carb screws were very sensitive once I got close to the sweet spot. Work on the High speed screw adjustment first to get rid of any carb back firing or crappy running when engine warmed. Unless you increase the idle jet to 42 44 it will always be a bit cold blooded.
Also
PROPER STARTING PROCEDURE FOR THIS BOBBER: something that is never really discussed but it is the most common mistake on ownership of small bore type carbed street or dirt bikes… is the proper warm up procedure that many people do wrong.
-Start the bike with choke up for 5-15 sec, go to half choke 10 sec then off and Let it idle and don’t do any revs until it warms up for at least 1min minimum. Then a few small slow revs are ok. If it starts to die don’t rev the bike but just go to half choke position for a few sec and the choke off until it idles on its own. Most people start there bike and then shut choke off and then start to rev a cold engine, thinking it will warm quicker and it may sputter and backfire during warm up. Just “don’t” touch the throttle until the bike is warmed. It is always the best, get your idle set just high enough where the bike will stay running without blipping the throttle when it’s cold after it’s just been fired up. People want to start these little engines and then start revving it immediately ,and that is not the way to let this little bike warm up. Messing with the throttle is not the way to go.
As the bike breaks in it will get a to a better running condition faster and run smoother. So bottom line is/ no throttle during warm up is a good rule.
I have a fuel injected big twin Harley, heck i can start it and drive off in 10 sec a totally different animal. This bike has one carb and one small cylinder so a patient warm up is the procedure and will always be one for the DF.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob form NV
Bob I wouldnt get that cool looking billet one but get a clear fuel filter that you can see crystals forming and dirt or crude, rust crud etc, Plus its nice to be able to see vaccum lock and fuel flow. All auto stores have them and even chrome and glass ones. just so its 1/4" x 1/4" on both ends. "Clear is always Better"
Bummer on the tank man. These things are fragil for sure. JB should certainly fix the tiny leak.Quote:
Originally Posted by Crelow
Skulworkz, it will be interesting to see if preventive JB will work also. One would think the kreem would help prevent leaks also?
Finger Tight only on tanks and maybe a drop of crazy glue in threads to prevent the nuts from vibrating off then is maybe the new method for those who take off their tank. How many turns with the wrench did you give the tank nuts after finger tight Crelow?
I've had my tank un-bolted twice to do the ignition mod and re-installed without any issues. I did snug up the nuts a bit but not tight as this tank kinda floats on top of the wiring harness, a little red locktite to prevent them from backing off.Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodbar
That was the info I was looking for on the carb and jets! Like always thanks.
Now as for the tank. The the first time when I broke the weld I just wrenched it softly. Then it leaked. I never turned the tank over as it was full of gas. But when it leaked I drained it. The side that was leaking had a hair line fracture that I couldn't even see. The other side the bracket was broke in half. So what I did was epoxy putty around every area of the welds. The hardest areas are under the brackets and epoxy the bracket together. I should have taken pictures. Before that I looked inside the can and noticed rust formed in the areas that the brackets were welded and a bigger rust spot where the leak was comming from. When reattaching to the bike one side would screw in more than another as the bracket on the left was welded a little lower. I put harbor freights version of loctite. Turned by finger then a half or quarter turn with wrench. The left nut barely made it on so I made sure it was flush with nut. And hope the cheap version of loctite will hold.
I think I had the carb tuned perfect at one point but the screw is so hard to get to during the ajustjustment that I got it close and figured that ill get back to it next time. Ill have to ask if my friend if he has a jet cleaning kit. It's so easy to pull apart.
BTW, I found where the horid noise is comming from. Durring decel the gas cap vibrates.
21 miles and just put my tag on. Magnet oil plug in the mail.
Soon as I feel things are perfect ill start riding it to work. But I need to figure out a way in case I do break down how to trailer it home. I seen that in the CCW forum that their is a trailer hitch that can hold our bikes. And another that just attaches the front wheel. What do you guys think?
Thanks Sr.mailman. To think I was just putting the loctite on the head of the nut. No wonder it never worked. LMBOQuote:
Originally Posted by SR.MAILMAN
Just kidding. This will definitely help me and others.
Hello all,
I'm currently conducting the break-in on my D250RTB, and I'm having an issue I hope you all may be able to help with.
I'm having issues getting the bike to shift into neutral after coming to a stop, and during riding I am sometimes unable to shift up past 2nd gear. It sometimes won't shift down into first at a stop as well. I've also noticed that the neutral light sometimes comes on incorrectly, while the bike is still actually in gear. The whole situation is keeping me from riding it anywhere but traffic-free sideroads. The clutch cable pulls in easily, but the shift lever gets stuck and won't shift gears. Rolling the bike forward/backwards with the clutch in seems to help correct the issue. Any ideas, suggestions or similar experiences?
Thanks all for your help.