THE LASER PRODURO MUFFLER
MODIFICATIONS!!!
As mentioned before, the bike comes with a nice set-up and unless you are up to serious over-land travel on tougher road conditions or seeking for more power, there is no need for big modifications on the stock set-up. If one likes to play around however, and working a bit on bikes to adjust it to individual needs, personal taste, then I hope this thread ill become a useful source.
THE LASER PRODURO MUFFLER
The bike sounds rather like a household lawn mower than a motorcycle. The stock exhaust looks and is heavy (around 12kg) and it seems, that the bike needs a bit more “air-flow”. The bike is fuel injected and comes with a catalytic converter – hence the weight.
http://pfaelzer.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...68_GBtkC-L.jpg
The stock pipe will to go first.
http://pfaelzer.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...22_uCqQk-L.jpg
In goes the Laser Pro Duro – off-road version.
http://pfaelzer.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...41_HGBN7-L.jpg
The original muffler is welded to an extension pipe. I didn’t want to cut off the pipe and use it for the new muffler so a new pipe had to be made.
http://pfaelzer.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...94_gFR85-L.jpg
To fit the Laser I needed to rebuild this stainless steel pipe. Due to different diameters between pipe and Laser can I had to make an adaptor – also in stainless steel. The biggest challenge on this project surely was, getting the stainless steel pipe bent to fit correctly through the frame, where at some spots is not much room for variation. It took some trials to get this right.
http://pfaelzer.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...21_6H2im-L.jpg
The whole assembly looks like this. Only one holder of the extension pipe to the frame, close to the adaptor is not yet welded on. I made a second ring-holder for the muffler and small latches to fit to the frames fixing points.
http://pfaelzer.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...89_D2ygy-L.jpg
First look with the Laser on the bike. Some holders were added to fit to the bike’s fixing points at the frame.
http://pfaelzer.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...68_JTXZA-L.jpg
http://pfaelzer.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...34_eHxvy-L.jpg
The new look. I like it. It looks much lighter than before. One more motivation to change the stock pipe is my plan to put on some aluminum panniers. The Laser reduces the total width so I can bring the boxes closer to the bike later.
RIDING EXPERIENCE WITH THE NEW LASER
First of all – now it sounds much more like a real motorcycle. It is louder but for my taste not too loud especially on low and mid range rpm. I like it. The ride surely feels more powerful. In neutral twisting the throttle give a much faster raise in rpm than with the old system. Acceleration is better. It feels sportier. On the downside, like with many after market cans, the engine backfires a bit when turning the throttle off quick. It is not too much disturbing and raises awareness of others in the traffic (!). This can be a safety factor when riding in China. I will address this issue later when I bring the bike for a bigger service to Jialing factory. I hope they can adjust this issue by working on the ECU unit.
Next thing will be to take a look at the air-filter.
AW
Back to overview
Re: THE AIR FILTER AND BOX
Phaelzer,
Looks like you're doing up the bike real nice! Nice clean photos too. The laser exhaust looks great and I'm sure the weight reduction has a positive effect on the acceleration and handling. Does it feel less top heavy with the pipe off?
Looking at the plain rectangular shape of the air filter, I wonder if there are K&N filters that would drop in without much modification. That would certainly save you from having to re-use the filter frame every cleaning. After all that, the ECU will definitely need remapping to get rid of the decel popping and maybe squeeze a bit more out of the top end. Do you happen to know what kind of interface the ECU uses for programming? Changing the mapping yourself may be faster than relying on the factory to do it.
CC
JH600 Rear Suspension modification
Hi,
Back from Chinese New Year Holiday with the promised post about the rear suspension modification.
For my taste, the bike bounces too much on fast bumpy roads and looses traction too easy on steep off-road climbs. The spring feels strong enough, but the damping is not to my taste and on the stock shock absorber is also not adjustable. I decided to change the original part with a Wilbers model from Germany. Some might argue that this is over the top but I just wanted to give it a try. I sent the original shock to Wilbers and they re-build a new one, based on my specification (weight, riding preference). There are different models to choose from, I went for a basic type. Franki helped me to get this arranged through his shop in Hong Kong.
http://pfaelzer.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...63_F6fgv-L.jpg
Here the original shock and the new Wilbers part.
http://pfaelzer.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...24_3B6x7-L.jpg
The original part has got a thread in the fork (see picture above), which Wilbers somehow couldn’t do. This brought up a little challenge to prepare the lower bolt, since there is not much space where this bolt dives into the fork lever. When ordering again from Wilbers it might be a good idea to ask and get the threat cut into the fork.
http://pfaelzer.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...55_3fjWv-L.jpg
See the red bolt. There is now about 3mm gap to the fork lever after grinding down the head of the bolt a bit.
http://pfaelzer.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...58_jWpuh-L.jpg
The new WILBERS will go in here. Air filter box and battery need to go out for assembling.
http://pfaelzer.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...10_DzaZe-L.jpg
First fit test – looks good. Even the WILBERS is a bit wider it fits in well. Some more bolts, air box, battery and fairing to get the job done. This will take about one more hour.
http://pfaelzer.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...55_qdorQ-L.jpg
VERY IMPORTANT - The space between the levers is limited. I had some little difficulties to fix the lower mount of the Wilbers shock, since the original screw was too long and would have touched these levers at both sides. There is about 12-15mm space at each side.The original Showa has got a thread in the fork, so no nut is needed. Make also sure, that the bolt (M10) has got a good strength.
http://pfaelzer.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...34_qLjjY-L.jpg
See the space I am writing about. Measured more precisely shows: 69mm.
Riding with the new Wilbers
Great, as expected. I have chosen the spring to be on the harder side since I will do also some rides fully loaded and with 2 people up. However, even solo, no uncontrolled swinging on fast uneven roads and the rear wheel stays on the ground off-road much better than before. This was a good investment. Soon I will have to turn my attention to the front end since this feels rather soft now and actually bottoms out easily.
2010-04-27 Update:
There are some more riders interested now to modify their JH600 with Wilbers reach shocks. I have been in contact with them yesterday and provided them following more detailed information:
http://pfaelzer.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...82_Ap5zr-L.jpg
Sag of rear-shock, bike only: 50mm
Sag with rider: 105mm (rider weight 96kg)
We also discussed the bolt space issue on the lower mounting fork (see the pictures above). The new shocks, provided for the JH600 will now have a inserted thread in one side or the fork. This will give more room and makes assembling easier. Wilbers promised to provide the shock together with the matching bolt. Don't forget to use some LockTite... Good news!
...back to list of modifications.
Re: ELECTRIC POWER SOCKETS
Phaelzer,
How many watts does the JH's alternator put out? You're going to have the world's most tricked-out JH600 when you're done with all your modifications. :riding:
Cheers,
Dan K.