Printable View
QH250GY is a 2007, from V-Bikes. I'm needing to replace the head gasket, but need to have the torque specs in full. Bolt pattern and pounds. A repair manual, or shop manual, with this even better. Where to buy one, download, order, etc. Greatly needed and appreciated. Even an Ebay seller that could order the manual. Any info would be a great help.
Stacy,
Since there's not much documentation available on specific machines (esp. the older models), best way to ask these questions is to state the engine type. You know what type of engine you have?
C
Where would I find thd engine type? All I could find was the VIN plate that said Manufactured By: CHONGQING HI-BIRD MOTORCYCLE INDUSTRIES. But the motor I thought had a name on it. I saw a name on it some where once. Maybe while aligning the TDC mark. It was behind the small caps. Maybe it was the original engine. This is a replacement, supposably exact, looks exact. But if you tell me where to find the information on the engine I'll look. Under the starter, etc. Thanks
Believe it or not, the most helpful thing you could probably do in this case is provide a nice clean image of the engine...including the head. From that we may be able to tell what engine it's based on.
Also, the torque specs for the head bolts should be relatively similar across the same size/class of engine regardless of maker. As long as the nuts aren't so tight as to break the long head bolts, I think it's more important that everything is tightened evenly in terms of tension.
For the pattern of removing the bolts, the rules are the same. Start on the inside of the engine and move your way out, crossing the engine as you go. See illustration...
Attachment 1330
CC
Thanks, this picture shows 10 bolts, mine has 4. So starting inside the motor is hard to figure out, they are arrainged in a square. But two bolts might be longer since the metal is thicker, because of the shape, design of the head where the nuts are. Seems like the tension might need different requirements, but I don't know 2" vs. 4". I'll get it torn apart so I can send photos. Thanks,
Once you take off the valve cover, you may find you have more nuts/bolts inside. If there is really only 4 bolts then you would probably do a cross pattern to keep the head from warping. Also, don't entirely remove the nut each time you take one off. "Crack" (which means to only break the nut loose...but not completely remove) each one first in a diagonal pattern, then completely remove the nuts repeating the diagonal pattern once more. In the picture above, that would imply something like a 1, 4, 2, 5 pattern - crack loose. Then another 1, 4, 2, 5, pattern - total removal. :thumbsup:
CC
heres 5 photos have a couple more
here are 5 more
The timming chain sprocket has two alignment marks and next to each are letters. One has DL and the other I think is ZS but the ZS I aint real sure about. But sounds right, it reminded me of a Chinese manufacture like the zongshen or something.Quote:
Originally Posted by stacyc72110
Are the bolts comming through the valve cover that have copper washers the one's to tighten or do they come off with the valve cover? I just want to retorque them like they are suppose to be done after it's broke in, something, and something about so many miles. I read it in the forums, like ChinaRiders. Hasn't been retorqued and I hope it'll stop oil from seeping through ever 500-800 miles. It really can go 80 mph. Hoping to get it up to 100+, but doubtful. Next mod is the catalytic converter.
Just in case the bolts are tightened outside the valve cover, what bolt do I start with, left front as if sitting on the motorcycle. Next #4, 3, and 2? So why know the #1? What if #2 and try that in the same pattern? Is #1 just a reference or is it some machined in engineer spec from shape? That is all I can think of for now, on a possible 4 bolts, square shaped, bolt patteren, on a single cylinder head.
Just checked the timing gear again, the letters I was unsure about were correct. They were ZS and DL. The valve cover to me looks like it stays on when the head is torqued but sent pictures best I could think of, timing cover removed. So maybe somebody can tell if the valve cover comes off. Thanks
The bolts with the copper crush washers are the bolts that tighten down the engine head. Then there are other smaller screws (towards the edges) that only keep the valve cover on. There are two large caps on the front and back sides of the valve cover that are designed to give you access to the valve adjustment nuts WITHOUT having to take the valve cover off (since removing the valve cover will probably loosen up other moving parts inside the engine).
Your engine is very very similar to the Honda CRF230L engine in the picture below. If you can smell around and find an online shop manual for that bike, you should probably have more service info than you can shake a stick at!
http://photos.imageevent.com/mychina...Expo10-116.JPG
CC
May I please get the website address or link to Carls website that has the manuals on it. I was using a mobile phone when I saw it, and now can't find it. Saw it in a post by Forchetto, I think. Only website I can find is the link to carl salter's and it's a different website. Thanks
Manual link for Zongshen 200. Uses basically the same engine as yours. Download and start wrenchin'!
http://www.mychinamoto.com/downloads/LZX200GY-2EC-Manual.pdf
CC
Looking over the assorted manuals that are in downloads here. I think I can torque to 22 pounds, but if no bolt pattern isn't bad enough. Now I've found 3 assorted type head and cylinder type bolts. Cylinder Head Bolt, Connecting bolt of cylinder head, Cylinder head nut. Cylinder head nuts are the ones to tighten, I think. The bolts are the long studs the nuts go on. If all that is correct, then I need to know what the connecting bolt of cylinder head is. And when to tighten, if it matters now.
Still need a pattern for these 4 bolts. Assuming bolt #1 is front left, #2 front right, #3 rear left, #4 rear right. Sitting on the motorcycle. Aint got crossing the engine is it left to right? Front to back is looking same as crossing the engine. Unless it's #1 nut front left, then back nut on the opposite side. Diagonal 1st to 2nd? 3rd cross the engine again? Pressure point being cross or along side the valves. Valves are exhst front, intke rear. Oil is starting to show on the left @ gasket.
Anybody have a suggestive pattern, anybody know what bolt to start with as #1? I just found out the timing gear is also used setting the valves. The flywheels mark on the case it lines up with is wide. The extra mark should help a bunch. Please consider valves are inline, rather than side by side. With exhaust in front, intake behind it. 2nd engine to seap oil, same place. No maintance after break in like retorque head bolts after 1-3000 miles. Might work best ask small engine repair for advice too.