Slabbing to Moganshan (and back)

Who says there's no adventure motorcycling in eastern China?

To celebrate the 6 August "Rise of Autumn" (liqiu or 立秋 in Chinese) as well as MotoKai's getting his new JH600 legal, we decided to make a quick overnight romp out to Moganshan, the old Nationalist Era cooling off playground for wealthy cityfolk in the lush mountains west of Hangzhou. MK left his colleagues to dribble his Friday workload, and we set off around 2:30 p.m. after a quick oil change for me. MK's bike had all of 100+ km on the clock, so this was his breaking-in ride. We took along oil and a fresh filter for his first change.

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Day 1
Moganshan is maybe 200km southwest of Shanghai, reached ostensibly on motorbikes via the G318 and the G104 highways -- yucky roads filled with everything from oxcarts and scooters and the occasional herd of sheep to giant long-haul trucks and heavy equipment. On a lark, we thought, "why not give the expressway a shot?" Moments later we were blasting at 120kph through rain squalls and doing our best to dodge some vexingly ballsy drivers whose motoring improprieties only worsened as the pavement got wetter. Thirty minutes later, we were safely through a second tollbooth, traffic had thinned to almost nothing and biggest weather concern was a mammoth black apparition throwing off lightning bolts to the south as we raced west.

Startled at our luck on the forbidden expressway, we pressed on and didn't stop for pix, so you are going to have to deal with the "worth 1,000 words" version of Day 1. The black chaos to the south got only worse, and began to chew into our daylight, and rain squalls hit again. We pressed west past Huzhou, knowing we soon had to turn south -- directly into the eye of the storm. Indeed, no sooner had we veered south off the G50 into the G25 and been chased from under an overpass by a work crew ("no motorcycles on the expressway!") were we hammered by the storm's full fury. Hail and torrents of rain, swirling wind and then, kaboom, a bolt of lightning maybe 50m to our right so close that the sound and flash hit simultaneously. Damn. Yes, let's get off this expressway, but, no, there's not even a safe shoulder! As the torrent slowed traffic to almost a stall, we groped our way down the emergency lane and found an offramp to the G104, and took shelter in an underpass literally under the G25. Soaked to the bone, we vowed to wait out the storm right there. This gave sufficient time for us to be interviewed by several crews of expressway police, who made no effort to cite us but did want us out of there. Maybe 45 minutes later we made a move, did the final 50km to Moganshan on the G104, splashing through floodwaters as the storm broke and slowly cleared. The 10km ride up the mountain was all lovely twisties, but as night fell we didn't see much except for the checkpoint where they extracted an 80 rmb entrance fee.

MK called a lodge run by a storied expat Brit named Mark Kitto (author of China Cuckoo: How I Lost a Fortune and Found a Life in China) to reserve a table for dinner and see i they could find us a room. Twenty minutes later we were in Mark's rustic dining room, drying out and nursing cold adult beverages with a media couple from San Francisco who met when he saw her using her teeth to pull the cable off a spark plug on her Ducati Monster. We had a lot to talk about over some serviceable burgers. Kitto even came out to say hello. Then off to bed.

Day 2
Saturday morning broke with the bamboo groves and this quirky "hill station" draped in characteristic mist, so we figured we might as well have a look around while the fog burned off.

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We stopped for a breakfast of soup noodles with lovely bamboo shoots harvested in the surrounding forests by these local gals.

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Then a pot of pre-ride cowboy coffee from Kitto's Lodge.

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Then we saddled up to go.

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Dig the reflective vests? More on those later...

Kitto and one of his staff had been kind enough to recommend some nice roads, saying we could expect 17km of nice twisties down the back of the mountain, then another set of lovely curves heading into the town of Anji. The quality of the road and scenery and the scarcity of traffic were far beyond our expectations. There was still a bit of mist in the bamboo groves as we set off.

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If that pavement looks very fresh it's because it was. At one point traffic was stopped in both directions for a crew that was laying fresh asphalt. We managed to just sneak through. This surely contributed to the lack of traffic on the road.

We stopped at one scenic bend to take pictures.

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If you look carefully, there's the start of a dirt road on the left. We decided to explore. It only ran about 1 km or so before disappearing as single track into the forest, but, WOW!

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The previous evening MotoKai had said he was a bit skeptical about running the Jialing off road. After this little run, he was grinning ear to ear, saying: "The suspension on this thing is awesome!"

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to be continued...

The first 17km were sheer bliss, and as we got off the mountain the sun really started to burn through. The greenness of the scenery continued. Apologies for the blur in some of these shots; many were shot while riding, with me clutching my little Canon G11 from the back with my gloved clutch hand. I think I was shooting at DIN100, and in future will boost that to 200 or 400. I'm also only able to guess at the composition (given that I'm also driving), so I just aim in the right direction, rely on the autofocus, and hope for the best.

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We passed through village after village, all of which seemed to be engaged in the bamboo trade.

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We took a short break in a tidy village and, as is the case in virtually all villages in China, were able to bone up on our civics -- C*mmunist P*rty style. The sign behind me reads: Implement Rule of Law in Governing the Country; Steadfastly Rule in Service of the People.

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Do you suppose we were doing our part for "rule of law" and "serving the people" by dressing up as police?

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The final run into Anji featured about 5 km of hardpacked washboard dirt road that allowed us to stand on our steeds and again test the suspensions, but not before we enjoyed a final set of blissful twisties. I'm not sure the logic behind the rocks linking both sides of this stretch.

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Gassing up with the locals in Anji. Yes, Easy Joy could have been the theme for this ride!

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As we rode south out of Anji, we found ourselves on excellent provincial highways, and as our speed increased the color scheme changed dramatically from green to blue. And the scenery morphed from the supple flex of bamboo to the gargantuan yet also graceful firmness of China's infrastructure boom. The bigger roads themselves, rather than bending like bamboo with the contours of geography, tend to smooth out the contours with trestles and mountain cuts and nice straight stretches with only the gentlest of curves.

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These last couple of shots courtesy of MotoKai, who started experimenting with the gloved clutch-hand grip and his pocket Nikon.

Did I mention the bamboo trade?

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one more take coming...

I titled this thread "Slabbing to Moganshan (and back)" and perhaps created some confusion with the verb "to slab". It's used in freeway-mad California to describe boring riding on high-speed freeways in the interest of saving time, and it certainly applied to our ride to Moganshan.

So how did we manage to get on the forbidden expressways, known as 高速公路 or gaosu gonglu? Well, let's call this a work in progress. We know that China's national traffic law does not forbid motorcycles from expressways, and around Beijing access is pretty easy and the tolls keep away small bikes. In most other places, onramps are posted with "no motorcycles" signs (picture of a motorbike in a red circle with a lateral red slash through the center). We simply roll up to the toll gate and ask for a ticket. This is generally declined with comments that include: "it's not safe" and "it's not allowed" and "we don't have a class of ticket for motorcycles". I reply, "it's way safer than on the surface roads, and we'll look out for our own safety" and "please show me the law that forbids us entering" and "please give me the class of ticket used for cars; we're happy to pay" and, as the toll taker fumbles with the phone to escalate these ideas to his or her superior, I reply, "Everything will be OK," and we do something that's perhaps best left to the imagination.

What's interesting is that when we reach the next toll gate, we get looks of surprise, but no blowback at all. Typically we just get waved through -- no muss or fuss with tickets and payment. On the ride back into Shanghai, we even passed through a major Shanghai Expo security check manned not only by traffic police but also by People's Armed Police. I saluted them as we slowly rolled through, and all was well. We've done this both with the police vests and without. At one rest stop where we were briefly hassled by a plainclothes security guard with too much time on his hands, he did ask about the police vests. We just said they were given to us by a Shanghai police officer who urged us to wear them for the sake of visibility and safety, especially on the expressways. He replied, "We don't actually know very much about expressway regulations."

I made sure to include some expressway pix as we left the mountains behind and blasted back toward Shanghai, though we didn't get any shots of the tollgate encounters. Again, do note the dramatic change of color from green to blue.

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So what's that out on the horizon, beyond the G15 expressway sign? It was the first of several emblems of China's new infrastructure -- architecturally stunning bridges that hold up these beautiful new expressways. We saw angular forms like this, and bold curves as well. Some bridges combined both.

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Look up! Wheeee!

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The bridge is called the Minpu Daqiao, crossing the Huangpu River that slices Shanghai into halves. It links Shanghai's Minhang and Huangpu districts, hence the "Min" and "Pu" in the name. Daqiao simply means big bridge.

The first tower in cloud shadow, the second bathed in brilliant sunshine!

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And a final look aiming the camera back over my shoulder. Yes MotoKai's still there!

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what a ride, jkp. The police vest works like a military licence plate and deceits security. How fast were you over-taking:thumbsup: 4-wheels at highway?

Thanks, TD Ref!

As you can see in the pix, we were almost alone on the expressway, with not too many other vehicles to deal with. On Day 1, there were quite a few trucks and cars (as well as bursts of heavy rain) in our first hour on the expressway, so of course there was the big speed differential between cars and trucks and the resulting dangers when overtaking. And we had plenty of assh*les in luxury cars passing on the right in the emergency lane. This is China. Once we cleared Shanghai the traffic thinned out dramatically and we ran a consistent 110-120 kph with no one really to overtake.

Slab is what it is: A good way to get somewhere fast, but not a huge thrill in and of itself.

cheers!

Nothing wrong with a bit (or a lot) of tarmac when you are going to somewhere good, saves some energy and wear and tear so you can enjoy the off road! Keep these reports coming, I truly enjoy the pics of normal life. On the one hand the essential similarity in human endeavours worldwide and on the other, the cultural differences and quirks, both make enjoyable viewing.

The quicker the rest of the world catches up like this to so-called western progress the better. Gives these new countries real weight in the world as the arrogance of the old powers has to be measured and curtailed.

It us strange being outside China, looking in, we still hear the odd off-hand news report of a few thousand people homeless or even killed in floods and earthquakes, then it goes quiet unless the price of commodities into China moves by 0 point 005 percent and the wankers in stock exchanges in USA get into a tizz and wet their pussy knickers.

Get that lad a rack and panniers, and into some black motorcycle trousers - the jeans and plastic bag look defeats the 'polizia' cool. So good to hear and see that you have simple fun in ways that take the piss in a friendly way, not many people can do that without being insulting and inappropriate. I used to cruise round Europe with 'Intelligence' credentials I made myself, I never got seriously called on them and often got free phone calls, assistance and even a meal or somewhere to stay! As long as you had enough experience to know a couple of protocols and jargon, the nature of the game was such that it supported the ruse.

Good luck, keep having fun and sharing it!

Thank you, Jape. Glad to be able to give a glimpse of China as it finds its way in the world.

cheers

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Originally Posted by euphonius

At one rest stop where we were briefly hassled by a plainclothes security guard with too much time on his hands, he did ask about the police vests. We just said they were given to us by a Shanghai police officer who urged us to wear them for the sake of visibility and safety, especially on the expressways. He replied, "We don't actually know very much about expressway regulations

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And there was the moment when hiding out from the rain and lightning under the overpass on the exit ramp of the Hang-Ning Expressway when one of the [many] police crews who stopped to "investigate" asked us in all seriousness if we were the police. I think we were both tempted to respond in a Blue Brothers way and say, "Yes we are. You see, we're on a mission from God."

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Very very very nice thread. Like the way you narrate!

I would love to join you guys. When is the next trip planned?!! :icon10:

About the Minpu Daqiao, it is named Minpu because it links Minhang and Pudong! Chinese always take the first part of the destination's name to name roads. For example the Huhang Gaosu is the highway that goes from Shanghai to Hangzhou (Hu is for Shanghai) or the Yongtaiwen highway that links Yongkang, Taizhou and Wenzhou.

Please count me in next time! :thumbsup:

Thanks guys for the RR. Interesting and some good pics. It's still amazes me how one can go from the 21st century to the 19th century in China by just traveling a few hundred kilometers. From modern towns and beautiful roads to dirt tracks and tiny villages supported by muscle power.

Cheers,

Dan K.

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Originally Posted by Marco

Very very very nice thread. Like the way you narrate!

I would love to join you guys. When is the next trip planned?!! :icon10:

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Dear Marco,

Would be happy to have you along. Nothing planned in the next couple of weeks, inasmuch as I'm already in the midst of an extended ride through Guizhou, Yunnan and western Sichuan. But we'll be doing one- and two-day outings regularly. I just heard tonight that there's a big motorbike gathering somewhere in Shanxi at the end of August. Supposedly an announcement in www.moto8.cn but a quick look didn't locate it for me.... There's also a Jialing-organized ride to somewhere in Anhui in a couple of days. Info in English HERE.

cheers!

Hi jkp,

nice report - I like the pix and the police vests :icon10:. Looks like your JH600 is running well. How many kilometers did you put on it by now? Any issues so far?

Good luck and greetings,
AW.

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Originally Posted by Pfaelzer

How many kilometers did you put on it by now? Any issues so far?

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Hello Pfaelzer! Does this mean you've returned to our hemisphere? Long time no see! Hope you had some excellent rides in Europe.

Unbelievably, I'm already approaching the 10k mileage limit of my 1-year warranty. I'm just hitting 8k after a long round-trip between Shanghai and Beijing, the second half of which I did entirely on the expressway, and this current trip into southwest China. I'd be at 10k already if I'd ridden the 2k-plus to Guiyang from Shanghai, but instead I put her on the train and saved at least 4 days of dull riding. I'm now in Kunming, having ridden the brilliant new expressway from Guiyang. This ride put to shame the rather amazing engineering achievements of the Shanghai expressways.

Next I'm off into the wilds of Yunnan, working my way west to Dali, then north to Lijiang. From there I need to get to Kangding aka Garze, and have to decide whether to take a more westerly route north via Zhongdian aka Shangri-La, or a easterly route up through Lake Lugu. Either one goes through very high desolate country -- a real mental challenge given that I'm riding solo!

As for problems with the bike -- nothing significant. I had a bad tank of 93 octane petrol in Shandong that had me thinking the ignition was failing, but that worked its way through with the next tank. In Beijing I had the bike washed, and almost immediately had a problem with the starter motor, which simply stopped working. I'm guessing some water got in from the high-pressure spray wash. By a stroke of luck my next stop was the Beijing Jialing service center, and that's where it refused to start! So they pulled the starter motor out, pulled it apart and cleaned the contacts, and it's been fine ever since. Only other minor issue is the kill circuit in the side stand, which is preventing me from starting up in anything but neutral even when the stand is up. I'll probably disable it, but I've found that if I let the side stand snap up quickly, rather than letting it up slowly, I can start in any gear with the clutch disengaged.

Biggest discovery: The bike is a champion on the expressway! She runs at 120 kph for hours and hours at a stretch without complaint, and will still accelerate from 120 if need be. I've not even approached the 8k red line, having maxed out at 7k-plus. She's smooth as silk, with virtually no vibrations, at 120kph.

For the kind of distance touring I'm doing, with interludes off road and on very rough pavement but also long stretches of perfect expressway, she's the real deal! Very pleased!:clap::clap::clap:

You up in Fuzhou any time soon?

cheers!

Hi Euphonius,

I'm enjoying your China adventure while the wife and I continue our America adventure.... good stuff :thumbsup:

Did I read you correctly that the JH600 has a 10,000 mile warranty or is that 10,000 kilometers? Either way it's pretty lame as that kind of distance can easily be covered in a couple month of riding. :eek2:

I've done the Lijiang to Garze area a couple times now and can send you some of the kml files if you're interested. The route I did with Felix and Daniel out of Luguhu could get pretty tough on the JH600 and might not be such a great idea alone. CrazyCarl and I did a different route via Zhongdian that was mighty cool and would probably be better for a solo rider.

Any reason you need to go to Garze? G318 is ass and there are some much nicer roads I would hit if I was up in that area.

Happy trails!
ChinaV

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Originally Posted by ChinaV

Did I read you correctly that the JH600 has a 10,000 mile warranty or is that 10,000 kilometers?

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Yeah, lame indeed. According to my understanding it's 10k km or 1 year, whichever comes first. And, yes, I'm racking up the kilometers.

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I've done the Lijiang to Garze area a couple times now and can send you some of the kml files if you're interested. The route I did with Felix and Daniel out of Luguhu could get pretty tough on the JH600 and might not be such a great idea alone. CrazyCarl and I did a different route via Zhongdian that was mighty cool and would probably be better for a solo rider.

Any reason you need to go to Garze? G318 is ass and there are some much nicer roads I would hit if I was up in that area.

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An outdoors outfitter in Zhongdian, Kevin Skalsky, gave me similar advice by phone last night, saying the route north via Zhongdian was more appropriate for a solo ride, and probably just as spectacular. But he hadn't ridden the Luguhu-Garze stretch. A guy who has, Josh Pollock who hosted your crew at Salvador's, told me the Luguhu route should be fine. So I'm a bit torn. Would love to see Lugu Lake, but I'm not sure I'm ready for long stretches of unpaved, unmarked road, especially in this season of massive rainfalls that are playing havoc with hillsides across western China.

I do need go to Kangding/Garze to visit a hospital that the SEVA Foundation, an American charity, is building there. I'd heard the road from there back to Chengdu is nice.

I am also in the market for suggestions for Kunming to Lijiang. I'm told it's not brilliant country, and that the expressway to Dali is only partially finished. From Dali north to Lijiang it's heavily trafficked unlimited access highway, which is the toughest riding in my book. Any alternate routes?

Finally, when you mention sending KML files, I'm not sure even how to use those with my Garmin Zumo 660. But happy to try!

Looking forward to a mammoth report on your little jaunt around Murrica!

cheers

Hi Euphonius,

I posted a file for you to look at in google earth here. If you don't have google earth, go to http://maps.google.com and enter http://www.contactdi.com/map/yunsch.kmz in the search bar. This link might also work.

The road to Luguhu is good, but the road going north out of Luguhu gets pretty bad, especially if there's been a lot of rain. The road going north to Litang from Zhongdian is great, you won't be disappointed. If you have enough time, keep going north from Litang to G317 and then make a big loop to get back down to G318 and Garze, there's some awesome stuff in there.

Cheers!
ChinaV

Wow, amazing, thanks! I just dragged the kmz file onto google earth on my mac, and shazaam!

Am I correct in interpreting the red lines as dodgier routes, while blue are clear sailing for a relative newb like me soloing on a 600cc Chinese thumper?

And it seems you've plotted two routes between Garze and Chengdu -- the shorter route via Ya'an and the long northern loop via panda country (Wolong). that northern route is also in red; should I interpret this as riskier? This northern route is NOT the G317 you mentioned, which loops much further to the north. Why not take that G317 up through Aba and then down to Chengdu via the earthquake belt (Wenchuan), rather than using it as an alternate to getting to Garze?

Sorry for all the questions! One more: How many days riding time should I be planning for these routes? Is this days and days of riding time, or can some of these stretches be done in a day? I realize this is a bit difficult to quantify!

thanks again!

What a beautiful ride! I was in Anji myself that weekend. Got to do some rafting and fishing in the streams but was wishing I could ride around the hills. Glad some people got to enjoy the scenery and curves! =)

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Originally Posted by euphonius

Hello Pfaelzer! Does this mean you've returned to our hemisphere? Long time no see! Hope you had some excellent rides in Europe.

...

cheers!

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Hi Euphonius,

I am back in Asia again. Europe was nice, but had to cancel my big ride for this summer to give priority to the family. Surely I did some riding around my hometown. Some day trips and to increase fun factor, I was able to acquire a 1995 HP2 Enduro for my little collection in Germany. Be assured - there was a lot of fun, even my road and off-road adventures this time are no match to your rides in China.

Been up at Fuzhou for two days this week. No riding, but took some pictures of the new carbon side plastics, which the guys completed now. I will post that later. Still have some traveling to do, but with September I hope to spend more time in Fuzhou for riding :riding: and wrenching... I also got a plan to come to Shanghai. I will let you know. Hope to catch up with you there.

Greetings,
AW.

Hi Euphonius,,

Sorry for the late reply, the blue track is the route I did with CrazyCarl back in 2008 and the red track is the recent trip with Felix and Daniel. The middle part in red from Luguhu to Litang is pretty rough, everything else was a mixture of the usual China roads. 250-350 kilometers in a day is possible, it just depends on how many times you stop and take pictures along the way.

If you have time to go up to 317 and then come down through the earthquake area that would be a great ride. I just wanted to give you a heads up on G318 from Litang to Garz as it's not such a great ride. The only reason CC and I went through there in 2008 was the fact that everything north of it was destroyed in the quake.

Have a great ride!
ChinaV

Hi Euphonius,

Your PM level is full, guess yoou made it into Sichuan already :thumbsup:

I made that round recently, the road from ZhongDian to Litang is great. Be aware after ShangriLa Gorge towards XiangCheng it can get a bit rough. We had several landslides there with road blockage. For me on the bike it was okay, my friends in the cars had a hard time.

From Litang to Garze (KangDing) the first part is really bad road with lots of traffic - after XinDuQiao it is an excellent road towards KangDing.

As I made an circle, so didnt continoue to Chengdu but torned south towards MoXi Glacier Park. There are two roads to there, I recommend the western, smaller road, no traffic and stunning landscape. If you want to visit the glacier, be at the gate before Lunchtime, they dont sell tickets in the afternoon.

We continoued to ShiMian - that was the hardest part, fun on my small bike, hard for my friend in his FuKang. Next day to XiChang with lots of traffic, but lots of expressway nearly finished, so can take it with the bike.

Enjoy!