GY200 is whipping me.

Hi everyone, I am new to the forum and have spent some time looking around for information that will help me with my bike. 2 years ago I purchased a dual sport from powersportsmax.com and I have had it in the garage ever since. We occasionally take it out on little neighborhood rides and it has always worked flawlessly except for 2 things. The fuel line was of inferior rubber and after about a year it split and dumped gas in the garage. The other thing was that the battery was also quite mediocre and had to be replaced which was a little bit of a trick since none of the available motorcycle batteries were a direct size replacement. Had to hammer the retaining bracket to a slight different shape to hold it, but it was simple and has worked wonderfully. So I finally got it licensed for off road use here in Utah and I took it out to the country to teach my wife how to ride. she has been dreading this day for two years. You can imagine. Well we get out to this great place to ride and I have her riding a small SSR 125 pit bike. I am on the GY200. She quickly picks up on shifting and breaking and I just putter around following her letting her go at her own pace. She takes us way out on some gentle curvy dirt roads and eventually she turns to head home. At that point my GY200 dies and won't start. It acts like the battery is dead. No cluster lights or starter relay clicking. Nothing I do at the moment helps. So I end up coasting and pushing the bike back to our base and I let my wife ride around by herself for a while. That was 2 weeks ago and she is smitten and can't wait to go back out and go riding. (Hurray, success!)Problem is I haven't been able to resolve the electrical problem with the GY200.
When I pulled the plastic and seat to examine the problem I found that the connector to the starter relay was not fully seated and clipped. I probably caused that myself while troubleshooting and replacing the battery earlier. That might be why it wouldn't crank at the end on our little country ride. Once I seated the connector fully all of the lights and speedometer and the starter were fully functional. Exactly how that effected the lights I am not sure. However, It cranks like crazy but won't start. No puff, no pop, nothing. I pulled the plug and looked at the spark. It sparks constantly but seems weak to me. So I assumed that the spark was ok. I moved on to the carburetor. I had full flow through the fuel line. Pulled the carb to inspect the fuel bowl and it was full of gas and spotlessly clean so I left that and reassembled. However I still can't get it to fire up. I sprayed starter fluid in the intake a few times to see if I could get a pop and nothing happened. At this point I begin to suspect electrical again so I start inspecting the wiring harness. I touched the harness just before it goes under the tank and I see sparks and the fuse was blown. The harness was rubbing on a coil mount screw and had worn through the tape and wire insulation. I have replaced the fuse. I un-taped the wiring harness and found that out of about 15 wires that were bundled at that point, the one red battery lead wire to the ignition switch is the only one that had been compramised. What is the chance of that. I repaired the damage with a butt connector and now guess what? I can't even get it to crank anymore. Oh yeah, all the cluster lights work, the turn signals work, the horn works, etc. But now I am worried that the more I do, it seems the more problems arise. This is demoralizing.
i can't find any real electrical diagrams for this version of 200cc dual sport china bike. I have been using the Portuguese diagrams and they are so close. They are very helpful. I think the CDI is ok or I wouldn't get spark, unless it is truly a weak spark. I am usually quite capable with all things electrical, electronic, mechanical, automotive, small engine, etc. So this has me chasing my tail a little. this is humbling and probably good for me.

In the Maintainance area there is a sticky post that no longer points to a functioning pdf.



Attachment 4851


If anyone still has the manual available I would like to take a look.



I wonder if my HS 163FML 200cc engine is a pushrod type engine. It doesn't have any ports on the top of the engine for adjusting valve clearance.


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It sure purrs like a kitten when it is running.



This is probably one of the cheaper versions of china bike. After reading for a while I think it might be related to the Shineray types. I don't have the exact name here with me but I will post it tonight or tomorrow.




Love my china bike, mostly when it is running.


Sorry if this was a long and boring post

Thanks for any help.


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[IMG]file:///C:/Users/Don/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot.png[/IMG]

HS = http://www.hensim.com/ Their VIN starts w/ LUA
OHV / OHC can distinguish easily by urself. http://www.motorfans.com.cn/bbs/viewthread.php?tid=180
btw Upload ur image NOT something linked to ur computer "file:///C:/Users/Don/..." :naughty:

Confucius say better to read book about problem then to write one.
ISBN-10: 0760327165

"I wonder if my HS 163FML 200cc engine is a pushrod type engine. It doesn't have any ports on the top of the engine for adjusting valve clearance"
It's a push rod engine based on the CG125 Honda engine.
http://hondacg125.awardspace.com/valve_clearance.htm

"I can't even get it to crank anymore."
Do you mean that the engine will not turn over when you push the starter button? Did you accidentally turn on the kill switch? What happens when you use the kick starter?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by barnone

Did you accidentally turn on the kill switch?

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Heh heh ... that was my first thought, also, speaking from experience. But he says he gets a spark, and I think the kill switch eliminates spark. Or does it? I always thought that was how it worked, but have actually never checked.

Otherwise, if there is absolutely NO cough, sputter, attempt to fire ... not even once ... then it is either spark or fuel mixture. But if fuel delivery seems ok, air delivery is ok, and if spark seems ok ... then it is very strange that it won't even cough once. And yes, as barnone asks, what happens on a kick?

My hunch is that it has to be spark. I recall an electrical gremlin I once had with a Honda - if the battery was weak, it somehow changed my spark's initial firing time and no matter what I did, the bike would never cough. I have no idea what goes on inside those little CI black boxes that have replaced the old-style ignitions. Anyways, a full battery charge immediately fixed the problem, although it recurred each time I let the bike sit (and the battery drained a bit). But doing a trial and error of replacing electrical components is very expensive (plug, then plug wire, then black box, then battery, etc).

Yup, you need the wiring diagram with specs and a good volt/amp/ohm meter. And a case of beer.

Thanks for responding
humanbeing and barnone, with your help it does look like it is a pushrod type engine. On the CG125 website, are all the tuneup and valve clearance data accurate for the 200GY, namely valve clearance 0.08mm (0.003 in)

I dug out my certificate of origin and it says it is
Manufacturer: Chongqing Huansong Industries
Make: Hsun
Model: MDL-200GY
VIN starts with LWG

Funny, I went back to the Powersportmax website and it appears they have removed all 200cc motorcycles and above. They still have a few small pitbikes.
Sorry MJH, I knew it was ridiculously long. I deserve the jab.

Since mine is all apart a found a web photo of a crashed MDL-200GY that looks identical to mine.

[IMG]file:///C:/Users/Don/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot-1.png[/IMG]Attachment 5033

Here is the followup on what solved the problem.
After tracing all the wiring, repairing the shorted (sparking) wire, checking the carb, and watching the constant weak spark, I decided to buy a new CDI and Coil. It would not cough or sputter. So in searching for places to purchase a CDI I found several internet sources for anywhere from $15 to $60. Then I stumbled into Roketapartsonline.com and they sell the CDI for only $3.95. The coil was only $9.95. So I paid the exorbitant 2-3 day shipping and the whole order was still only $29.85.
I ran out and plugged the new CDI in, turned the key on and pushed the starter button. Presto! It instantly roared to life. Sounds so awesome and smooth. While I had the carb apart I moved the E clip to get a better idle and It instantly idled better than it has idled before. I now have a spare coil and I will probably order another CDI and just keep it on the shelf, just in case. At that price why not.
It was the constant spark that was throwing me off. Weak spark is a bad thing on this engine.

Thank you for all the help MCM

Now lets get to riding :clap:

What would be the best CDI for that engine, I am now stuck on DC apposed to AC.

CDI seems to be notorious for failing, is there a better version CDI and can it be purchased direct from CHINA?

Maybe this one….we need the expert…are you reading today 尊敬的专家.

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=5709576014

DonS,
Glad you are back in business.
"It was the constant spark that was throwing me off. Weak spark is a bad thing on this engine."
What does the spark look like now as compared to the weak spark?
Which CDI did you get from Roketapartsonline.com?
Thanks,

MJH - The CDI I got was a DC unit. I called to ask advise and was told that the DC was by far the most common one that they supply. Very few have needed the AC units. In fact they only carried the DC units until recently when they had a slight demand for AC units. They are currently out of AC CDI's because they order so few of them.
here is the link to the DC CDI
http://www.roketapartsonline.com/cdi...ts-p-9339.html

I couldn't get the link in your post to work sorry.

barnone - I hope I didn't speak too soon. I haven't looked at the current spark. I will check it tonight and be sure it is stronger. If it is the same (weakness) then I will be forced to assume that the CDI unit was changing the timing and therefore wouldn't run.
I got the CDI at this Link
http://www.roketapartsonline.com/cdi...ts-p-9339.html

barnone

"What does the spark look like now as compared to the weak spark?"

Ok, I checked the current spark now that it is running and it looks the same as when it wouldn't run. kinda weak looking but continuous. This must be normal spark for the 200GY. It had to be some other problem with the CDI that prevented it from running. I don't know if there is any way that a CDI can alter the timing of the spark but that is all that is left. I have read about performance CDI's that remove RPM limits and change certain performance curves. I think I have also read about CDI's advancing spark based on RPMs. If the standard plain Stock CDI is able to limit RPM's then possibly, if it had a malfunction, it could throw the timing off enough to keep my engine from running.

Any other opinions out there?

These black boxes are indeed a mystery

DonS,
Thanks for taking the time to check the spark. I was wondering if you could notice the difference. I would not think that the CDI would affect the intensity of the spark since it just triggers the coil.

You might want to swap the coil and see if the spark increases but then again you might not since the bike is running fine now. Something about if it ain't broke don't fix it?:lol8:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DonS

I don't know if there is any way that a CDI can alter the timing of the spark but that is all that is left ... These black boxes are indeed a mystery

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by barnone

I would not think that the CDI would affect the intensity of the spark since it just triggers the coil. You might want to swap the coil and see if the spark increases but then again you might not since the bike is running fine now. Something about if it ain't broke don't fix it?:lol8:

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In my case (noted above), the Honda mechanic tried to explain to me (as my eyes were glazing over) that with certain "faulty black boxes" the timing was affected by various factors, including ambient temperature & humidity. Huh? WTF? But how can one argue over that mysterious electrical stuff that one cannot actually see. Anyways, I paid my service bill, got my bike back & it worked. I was happy.

Barnone's suggestion to swap out the coil makes the most sense re the weak spark, but his wise observation that "if it ain't broke" ... yeah, that is the one I would follow! (with a spare coil in my tool box, just in case)