New CFMoto 650NK blog x2

Soberpete and I pulled the trigger on some new CFMoto 650NKs last week, and I got my plates this week so I'm fully legal. Pete's getting the bike in his name so will take a while longer for his plates.

Anyhow here's me at the plating ceremony...34,500 RMB down. :deal:

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First thing I noticed...the bars are freaking narrow, I measured them at about 680mm, holy cow I like 720-750mm. Also there's an upsweep of about 70mm, where about 20mm would suit me. Might get some Renthals and some new grips, not sure if I'll get the bar mounts and go with the Fatbar.

Done about 40kms so far, will be using Loctite 243 and zip tying everything I can find, what did everyone else do on their break-in?

Wooooohooooooo! So you gonna push the Raptor off a cliff now?

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Originally Posted by euphonius

So you gonna push the Raptor off a cliff now?

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No way! I spent four years getting that bike up to the level of a neglected 1982 Honda CB250N. :icon10: In fact it's worked very reliably for about the last two years other than cheap component failure.

Well done

Good news about time you moved up a size 34.500 for the bike what about the cost to plate bike . break in drive slow 0-800km 4000 max revs 800-1500 km 6000 max change oil at 500 km and again at 1500km sounds good check the water pump to see if you have a leak and how is 2nd to 3rd gears going up ???

just got the TR Trade for 39.800 in red will do a report soon is your side stand the same as the TR to short ???

Congrats ZMC, enjoy every minute of it.

Cheers!
ChinaV

Congrats! Enjoy the bike. For break in I tried to keep the revs lower than normal, basically following the manual, though I found myself going over quite a bit. Bike has been fun, and for the most part running great.

Forgot to mention, tighten the tubing going into the radiator. I have heard it has a tendency to work itself loose, and I have had one instance where that had been the case on mine. I have since tightened everything down and not seen another issue.

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Originally Posted by prince666

Well done

Good news about time you moved up a size 34.500 for the bike what about the cost to plate bike . break in drive slow 0-800km 4000 max revs 800-1500 km 6000 max change oil at 500 km and again at 1500km sounds good check the water pump to see if you have a leak and how is 2nd to 3rd gears going up ???

just got the TR Trade for 39.800 in red will do a report soon is your side stand the same as the TR to short ???

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480RMB or so for plate including insurance. The short kick stand would ideally be maybe 2-4cm longer, but not really terrible, maybe TR sits higher? Was going to do break-in something similar to what you said, but thanks for that.

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Originally Posted by guangtouge

basically following the manual,

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Anyone got a link to a .pdf English or Chinese, NK or ER6?

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Originally Posted by guangtouge

Forgot to mention, tighten the tubing going into the radiator. I have heard it has a tendency to work itself loose, and I have had one instance where that had been the case on mine. I have since tightened everything down and not seen another issue.

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Already have some hose clips!

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Originally Posted by V

Congrats ZMC, enjoy every minute of it.

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I was getting so bored of small displacement bikes I nearly gave up on riding. This should reignite some passion.

Congrats, post some pics of the bike when you time.

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Anyone got a link to a .pdf English or Chinese, NK or ER6?

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Have a PDF in English owners manual for the NK if that helps so pm your email address and i will send but i need the same for the TR who can help ??

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The short kick stand would ideally be maybe 2-4cm longer, but not really terrible, maybe TR sits higher?

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Have this sorted had one made today will post pictures when fitted made it 30mm not a new stand but a add on to the foot plate like the DMV ones in the picture but 30mm thick will fit tomorrow and see how it looks incresed the foot print by about 25% as well

Attachment 13459

if you are making the foot 30mm thick it would be a good idea to fill it full of holes because you are adding a lot of weight for the spring to hold

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Originally Posted by zhu

if you are making the foot 30mm thick it would be a good idea to fill it full of holes because you are adding a lot of weight for the spring to hold

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yes did think about that got it down to 198 grams so untill i fit it and ride the bike over some dumps to see if it movers with the weight ! but you are spot on do you think 199 grams is to much ... and yes the next move will be to make it look like "eyes" cheese but just worried about the mice :lol8:

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I'd already considered the addition of an extra "foot" but didn't think that was the wisest method, although honestly, it's been so darn hot that I thought I'd wait until it's cooler here before taking the bike to a mates metal fabrication and CNC shop. Actually I rode the 650TR the whole day yesterday (yep, didn't go into work). The plan was to visit my mates workshop/company and work with him to work out how to do the side stand, possible a centre stand and also an adjustable bracket for the screen, but he wasn't in. He'd gone off to a neighbouring city to meet customers, so I decided "fark it" I'll go ride Simingshan (tourist mountain here). Two tank refills later and I was back home at 8:30pm. It was hot and humid here yesterday, so I felt like I'd been riding the whole day what with all the grime and accumulated sweat, oh and the added sore arse factor - even I rode with a pair of cycling shorts under my pants. That's the one big difference between the 650TR and either my Jetmax or Burgman 650, both of which I can ride the whole day and arrive home/destimation feeling somewhat refreshed, plus I don't suffer from sore arse syndrome!

One of the factors to consider though with the additional foot, aside from weight, is, how the combination of the side stand and the added foot, fit alongside the bike when in the raised position. Also the angle of the foot to the ground. I carry a small section of wood about 30mm tall, just the right size to put in the RHS cubby/glove box. When I park the 650TR, I pull out that bit of wood, and place it under the side stand, giving the bike just the right amount of lean. But I also notice just how the foot angles up. Only the heel of the side stand sits on the bit of wood. Something you'd need to factor in or allow for in the alloy "foot".

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Originally Posted by bikerdoc

I'd already considered the addition of an extra "foot" but didn't think that was the wisest method, although honestly, it's been so darn hot that I thought I'd wait until it's cooler here before taking the bike to a mates metal fabrication and CNC shop. Actually I rode the 650TR the whole day yesterday (yep, didn't go into work). The plan was to visit my mates workshop/company and work with him to work out how to do the side stand, possible a centre stand and also an adjustable bracket for the screen, but he wasn't in. He'd gone off to a neighbouring city to meet customers, so I decided "fark it" I'll go ride Simingshan (tourist mountain here). Two tank refills later and I was back home at 8:30pm. It was hot and humid here yesterday, so I felt like I'd been riding the whole day what with all the grime and accumulated sweat, oh and the added sore arse factor - even I rode with a pair of cycling shorts under my pants. That's the one big difference between the 650TR and either my Jetmax or Burgman 650, both of which I can ride the whole day and arrive home/destimation feeling somewhat refreshed, plus I don't suffer from sore arse syndrome!

One of the factors to consider though with the additional foot, aside from weight, is, how the combination of the side stand and the added foot, fit alongside the bike when in the raised position. Also the angle of the foot to the ground. I carry a small section of wood about 30mm tall, just the right size to put in the RHS cubby/glove box. When I park the 650TR, I pull out that bit of wood, and place it under the side stand, giving the bike just the right amount of lean. But I also notice just how the foot angles up. Only the heel of the side stand sits on the bit of wood. Something you'd need to factor in or allow for in the alloy "foot".

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Give me a few hours and i will have it fitted then i can answer all your question worked out a way to adjust the adjust the angle of the new "foot" have checked ok before i made it to check all clears when up . The best way would be to just weld a peace of new metal onto the OE stand but have a look it dont look like fabricated steel it looks like "cast steel" which will be very hard to weld ???? so the best bet is to make a club foot to add to the end see picture got mine down to 198 grams so should be ok when up but i will see if needed will drill holes in the foot to lose some grams

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Why has the NK got 55 w bulbs and we have 35 w

and do you have a PDF owners manual for the TR Doc please

Sent you a PM there Prince... also expect an email with the 650TR user manual in your inbox, provided that it can accept 6mb file attachments.

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Originally Posted by bikerdoc

Sent you a PM there Prince... also expect an email with the 650TR user manual in your inbox, provided that it can accept 6mb file attachments.

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Yes got the email you are a very very nice man thanks for that have just sent loads of pictures to your email and will post here about the horn and the new foot plate for the 650 TR side stand

Wehey nice one ZMC. Happy to see you finally pulled the plug on this, seems like you've been pining for something a bit faster for a while. What's her name?

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Originally Posted by felix

Wehey nice one ZMC. Happy to see you finally pulled the plug on this, seems like you've been pining for something a bit faster for a while. What's her name?

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Her name? 'Mountain road carver.' :riding:

Love this bike very happy, probably I'm a bit easy to please after my old bike. Anyhow my review if you are interested.

Brakes 9/10
Fantastic, and properly bled from factory, braided lines too. Saved my neck a few times with idiots doing suicide maneuvers. Front is hard to lock just about perfect, ABS would be better especially in the wet, but I ride in this dry so I'm happy.

Engine 9/10
Love it, loads of torque plenty of power, yet to be explored because I'm still running it in.

Handling 9/10
Bike is very easy to ride with weight transfer or counter-steering. Counter-steering is very easy and sensitive and bike loves to turn in and lean. Not too fun around town fairly heavy hot bike with nice slightly rear pegs ideal for mountain twisties, but of course a bit compromised in the urban environment. Luckily for me I bought the bike for the mountains.

Suspension 8/10
Better than I expected feels very competent. Score only because of lack of adjustibility.

Tires 6/10
Cheng Shin's look OK, can slip a little under power. Will switch out for something more exotic in the spring, not worth removing, good enough.

Fit and finish 7/10
Paint seems pretty thin and plastic turquoise decals are a bit yuk. Also front fender is about 3-4cm from tire and as well as being ugly it leaves too much gap for small stones and grit to be flung onto the radiator. Need to mod this. Also rear hugger doesn't hug at 2cm away from tire which exposes the shock a little.

Assembly 5/10
Many of the bolts weren't torqued up to spec, engine bolts, rotor bolts were OK and master cylinders rest not really. Fork bolts were very under torqued, I was easily capable to getting another half turn on the bolts. The semi permanent thread-locker seemed watered down and ineffective.

Attachment 13533
Fork bolts nice reassuring red bolbs, but bolt under-torqued and minimal thread-locker noticeable on threads.

Attachment 13532
Some bolts holding the pegs. rear master on could be easily stripped out, made from low grade alloy.

To do list suggestions for CFMoto:

1. Inspect quality of all bolts, think about spending a little extra money on better steel alloys.
2. Add 2cm to NK side stand, 4cm to TR.
3. Use better threadlocker/use more/don't water it down.
4. Check torque settings for bolts, extend engine bolt/rotor bolt torquing method for engine/rotor bolts to all bolts on the bike.
5. Redesign and lower fender and hugger.
6. Think about adding a trip meter and gear selection indicator.
7. Think about small screen option for NK.
8. Think about using better tires.
9. Think about supplying a wider bar about 740mm with less upsweep.

Overall though a really great bike. Before this bike I have said a few years ago you'd be crazy to buy a new Chinese bike in a western country over a 2nd hand Japanese bike. With the CFMoto level of quality I would say it's a viable option, especially if the level of quality improves over the next few years.

Glad to hear you are enjoying the bike. I appreciate the level of detail in the review. As a fellow NK owner it has provided me with a list of things to check on my own bike.

Great review, I am also loving my NK. I agree with the fastener issue 100%. I've found that I've stripped a couple of threads on the frame for attaching bodywork, the cutting of threads in the frame is very hit and miss. I have bought a workshop set of thread repair inserts so I have inserts to hand as I need them. I think I might also go through the bike and check and replace any low quality fasteners as I come across them.

a huge miss for me is no trip meter, I really like that as a back up as I've always found motorcycle fuel gauges to be pretty hit and miss. Secondary for me is to find an add on clock that doesn't spoil the looks of the gauge area of the bike.

really interested to hear anyone's ideas on add on trip meter solutions.....

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Originally Posted by choldy

I've found that I've stripped a couple of threads on the frame for attaching bodywork, the cutting of threads in the frame is very hit and miss. I have bought a workshop set of thread repair inserts so I have inserts to hand as I need them. I think I might also go through the bike and check and replace any low quality fasteners as I come across them.

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Not had a problem with the frame threads, I'll try and be careful with them. I think there are nearly unlimited options with the thread lengths and shapes. You can buy reasonably price titanium bolts in the same sizes. :naughty:

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Originally Posted by ZMC888

Not had a problem with the frame threads, I'll try and be careful with them. I think there are nearly unlimited options with the thread lengths and shapes. You can buy reasonably price titanium bolts in the same sizes. :naughty:

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Hi Zmc888

I just use stainless steel ones found a shop that has loads all types "Titanium" i ahd it hard to find the SS shop not surs in china if people know about these lol
but good luck

Prince the problem being is that most of the steel bolts you can buy in China and on the web internationally are made in China then you are back to square one. If you want good quality steel you have to pay quite a bit for it. However you can buy very strong and of course light weight and non-corroding titanium for a price, but considering I want to keep the bike for 10 years or more it's worth it, would be buying from western web shop of course.

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Originally Posted by ZMC888

Prince the problem being is that most of the steel bolts you can buy in China and on the web internationally are made in China then you are back to square one. If you want good quality steel you have to pay quite a bit for it. However you can buy very strong and of course light weight and non-corroding titanium for a price, but considering I want to keep the bike for 10 years or more it's worth it, would be buying from western web shop of course.

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Ho i see i be happy if the TR last 3 years as for 10 years i think the odds are more in the favour with in 10 years riding a bike in china you will be killed? but i like your thinking no harm being a Optimistic i am more a skeptical when it come to how long it will last, ok so i am being a bit of a pessimistic but TIC .And i only have a 1 year visa as well lol

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Originally Posted by prince666

ur with in 10 years riding a bike in china you will be killed?

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Already survived 11 years riding in China. :riding:

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Originally Posted by ZMC888

Already survived 11 years riding in China. :riding:

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I hope you can do 10 more well all the best

Odd, horn only works intermittently. Need to look at the wiring probably in or near the switch.

I think I've got a coolant leak coming from a seal around the front right hand side of the bike, probably the water pump.