nooks and crannies - something remote - every part of a place
I wouldn't put Guangdong as a destination of choice for epic motorcycle rides in China, but it's home, and over the last six years I've found some special places worth sharing. I'm not really good about posting ride reports, but I promised a few people that 2009 would be better, so here goes.
We all dream of fantastic adventures through restricted provinces, but the reality of life is that most of us living here do our riding on weekends, two or three days at a time. It can be exciting and frustrating. On one hand, you end up covering a lot of the same roads over and over, on the other, you become willing to try anything that looks like a cow trail on google earth. :naughty:
Chinese new year makes for good riding. Half the population has gone home, container trucks and work crews no longer clog the roads. Weather is mild with temps between 10º-25ºC, no rain for three months, so it's a great time to hit mountain roads that get wiped during the heavy rains of the monsoon season.
The first area that I wanted to hit was the Xinfeng reservoir (WanLu lake / Evergreen lake / give it another name next year lake), 150 kilometers north-east of home (Dongguan). One of the four largest reservoirs in China, the lake (whatever it's called) holds about 13.9 billion cubic meters of water. An immaculate road borders the south and west sides. I spent four years trying to find it, but like so many other good roads, it was built from the inside out. The south and north entrances are very difficult to access, so nobody goes there :thumbsup:. The road is so good, I made two trips just so I could ride it from each direction :crazy:. Here are the two rides.
Starting down south in Dongguan, I headed for Y880 between Xichang and Heyuan each day.
I took the usual route out of town and won't bore you with the details. The first day I headed to Matou so I could enter from the north. I picked a little smudge that looked like a road on google earth and found X220. Not such a great road :frump:
OK, so much for X220, blast up past Matou and grab X192 and X311. Nice roads with very little traffic as I cross the mountains that feed the reservoir.
I finally hit Y880 and it's awesome, smooth, clean, new, empty....MINE :naughty: Stop, take picture...yeah, whatever, I can't believe this goes on for eighty kilometers :riding:
After two hours and a bunch of side excursions, I had only reached the half way point at Xinhuilong. Heading home was the safe bet, the second half of Y880 would have to wait until next time. I continued south on a crappy section of road that led to an even crappier section of road. Behold X224, twenty kilometers of kidney crunching misery, almost one hour wasted.
Back to some familiar roads, but it looks like I'm still going to enjoy a little night riding as I push to get home. Finally arrive at about 8:00 pm, two hours past beer o'clock, what a day. :goodtime: Here's more data than anyone wants know....
Day 1: 22-January-2009
Start Time: 9:32 AM End Time: 7:53 PM
Total Time: 10 Hours 21 Minutes
Moving Time: 9 Hours 46 Minutes
Distance: 526 Kilometers / 327 Miles
Average Speed: 51 kph / 32 mph
Average Moving Speed: 62 kph / 38 mph
Maximum Speed: Really really fast
Maximum Elevation: 469 Meters / 1539 Feet
Fuel Unit Cost (93 octane): 5.42 RMB Per Liter / 3.00 USD Per Gallon
Fuel Total Cost: 150 RMB / 21.96 USD
Fuel Consumption: 19 Kilometers Per Liter / 44.69 Miles Per Gallon
If you want to download a kmz file of day one for Google Earth, please click here.
Thanks for coming along, tomorrow I will post the second half of the Xinfeng reservoir rides.
Cheers!
ChinaV
02-10-2009, 01:02 PM
chinabiker
Thanks for the pics and the vid. How do you deal with the soundtrack btw?
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChinaV
... On one hand, you end up covering a lot of the same roads over and over, on the other, you become willing to try anything that looks like a cow trail on google earth. :naughty: ...
Nicely said and very true - we should try to change that once a year for 2 - 3 weeks :mwink:
As it seems, you have some good stuff down there too :riding:
I like the X224 and Y880 :lol8::lol8:
Andy
02-10-2009, 03:02 PM
CrazyCarl
Well written with good photos, video and masterful map work! :clap:
Nice videos, we have loads of twisty mountain roads like that in this area too (makes you happy you bought a small capacity bike, not much in the way of any choice though :lol8:) except they don't put tar in the cracks of concrete roads. Looks like it could get a bit slippy in the wet or very hot weather. :eekers:
02-11-2009, 02:04 AM
ChinaV
Quote:
Originally Posted by chinabiker
Thanks for the pics and the vid. How do you deal with the soundtrack btw?
I was trying to avoid video editing, it takes such a long time to make a good video with music and voice over like Carl and Sabine do. I just open the clip in Quicktime and extract the video track to a new file without audio. I finally started working with Final Cut again, so the upcoming videos in my next installment will be a little better.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZMC888
except they don't put tar in the cracks of concrete roads. Looks like it could get a bit slippy in the wet or very hot weather. :eekers:
I think they call those "tar snakes". Very unpredictable when it gets wet. I think they do it to some of the older roads to keep the water from eroding between the sections of concrete, Sure wish there was more "blacktop", the concrete really chows through tires.
The weather changed and I had to wait a few days until heading out again. This time I decided to blast straight to Heyuan on the main roads so I could enjoy more time riding around the lake. The chill and haze of the early morning were replaced with beautiful sunshine and a high of 24ºC. Not bad for riding in January. :thumbsup:
I reached the end of Y880 at the northern tip of the reservoir, 84 kilometers of perfect road with almost no other traffic the entire two and half hours. This is a very special ride indeed, still working on the video editing skills.
I looked at my options for heading back home. There was one of those cow trails on google earth, but I couldn't see where the entrance could possibly be. After circling a few times, I finally found this little road going up the side of a mountain. Wonder if it comes out anywhere or if it's just a dead end? :confused1: Only one way to find out.
According to google earth, I was about half way to connecting with a known road. I figured it would be about ten kilometers of dirt and gravel which was very enjoyable given the scenery.
Eventually met up with X192 and was quite happy with how everything had worked out. I knew this road was crap, but it seems like such a small price to pay for the last three hours of nirvana.
The rest of the ride was uneventful, I arrived home just after six, only twenty minutes late for beer o'clock :goodtime:. And once again, more data than anyone wants know....
Day 2: 31-January-2009
Start Time: 8:41 AM End Time: 6:21 PM
Total: 9 Hours 39 Minutes - Moving: 7 Hours 36 Minutes - Stopped: 2 Hours 2 Minutes
Distance: 493 Kilometers / 306 Miles
Average Speed: 51 kph / 32 mph
Average Moving Speed: 65 kph / 40 mph
Maximum Speed: Really really fast
Maximum Elevation: 512 Meters / 1679 Feet
Fuel Unit Cost: 5.42 RMB Per Liter / 3.00 USD Per Gallon
Fuel Total Cost: 129 RMB / 18.82 USD
Fuel Consumption: 20.77 Kilometers Per Liter / 48.86 Miles Per Gallon
So that's the end of the first section, hope you enjoyed the Xinfeng reservoir. Coming up.... heading northwest to discover the "Grand Canyon" of Guangdong and the tallest mountain in the province.
Cheers!
ChinaV
02-11-2009, 08:09 PM
herrmannek
Great trip... I want to go somewhere further away from home but had no guts until I learn the bike and gather some ridding experience. I'm still novice. Thanks for getting me trough winter time, all those trip reports from all you guys are so fun to read. Lol last month i dared to ride on a bike just few times, and only when it was warm and dry enough... Just can't wait summer and spare time will happen to meet together :) Keep more reports coming.
02-12-2009, 02:53 AM
chinabiker
Thanks for the pics, ChinaV. Good to know that there are some good placs to ride down South. I have to change my profile for the headhunters and add one more city as "acceptable" job location :lol8:
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChinaV
There was one of those cow trails on google earth, but I couldn't see where the entrance could possibly be. After circling a few times, I finally found this little road going up the side of a mountain. Wonder if it comes out anywhere or if it's just a dead end? :confused1: Only one way to find out.
I love this kind of roads and the fact that you have to ride them to find out where they go.
Thanks Google for Earth :icon10:
Andy
P.S. Any nice camping spots in this area?
02-16-2009, 08:25 AM
ChinaV
Another week of plotting and planning, I was ready for an overnight trip. A one day ride will only get you so far and most of the "good stuff" in Guangdong lies way up in the North. I picked the Ruyuan Yao Nationality Autonomous County as a destination, this area is to the west of Shaoguan and boasts all kinds of interesting scenery and tourist attractions.
I headed out in the early morning through thick fog and traffic, after eighty kilometers, things loosen up and the roads start to get fun. This is X404 outside of Timian in the early morning mist.
I picked up S114 North out of QingYuan and stopped for a little break. The road was not in particularly good shape and I gazed across the river at the beautiful expressway with envy.
As I stood there watching the cars zip by, I noticed a motorcycle :confused1:. How did he get on there? Wait, another one! Could this be a motorcycle friendly expressway, in China? I turned around , headed for the entrance, and was surprised to find no toll booth. Just a big sign that said QingLian Expressway / Toll Road. Sweet :thumbsup: This is gonna be fun. 144 Kilometers of pure joy from Qingyuan to Yanshan with a couple of toll booths along the way that were all smiles. I won't go into the details about what kind of speeds were involved, but it's the only time I wanted to swap my V-Strom for a Hayabusa.
I connected with S258 North to head towards the Grand Canyon of Guangdong in Dabu. The road was fantastic with a few bad spots to keep it interesting. Remember, it hasn't rained in three months, can't imagine this mess during the rainy season.
Arriving at the tourist trap for the canyon, I decided to take a little single track into the woods instead of following the heard. This is the mouth of the canyon, and that big wire you see......
Pre flight check before heading out. It's about 300 meters from the wire to the ground. The opposing wall has 1386 steps and the people you see are about half way down.
I was getting close to my destination for the day and decided on a little detour. According to many local maps, there is a road bordering the west side of Nanshui lake. I have made several attempts to find this road over the last six years without success and it looks like my luck is no better today. I stopped at this little hydro station and asked about the road, one of the locals said it does exist but won't be accessible for another year. He had been working at this hydro station for years and was surprised that I even knew about the road. I told him I would be back next year to check and he just smiled.
Arrive at the hotel 10 minutes early for beer o'clock :goodtime: And once again, more data than anyone wants know....
Day 3: 7-February-2009
Start Time: 8:10 AM End Time: 5:48 PM
Total Time: 9 Hours 46 Minutes Moving: 6 Hours 50 Minutes Stopped: 2 Hours 55 Minutes
Distance: 464 Kilometers / 288 Miles
Average Speed: 47 kph / 29 mph
Average Moving Speed: 68 kph / 42 mph
Maximum Speed: Very very fast
Maximum Elevation: 752 Meters / 2467 Feet
Thanks for coming along, tune in later for some more.
Cheers!
ChinaV
02-16-2009, 10:05 PM
kingmarty45
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChinaV
Meet "The Dude". I don't know how much he gets paid to ride across that wire, but it's not enough. Respect.
This guy might be even crazier than Snortin... :icon10:
02-17-2009, 01:07 AM
DanKearney
ChinaV,
Great story and pics. Keep it coming. Your guangdonghua must be fluent.
Cheers,
Dan K.
02-17-2009, 01:44 AM
chinabiker
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChinaV
.. I wouldn't put Guangdong as a destination of choice for epic motorcycle rides in China ...
You report proved otherwise :lol8::lol8::lol8:
There are good places to ride almost everywhere as it seems. Nice pictures, can't wait to come to GD.
Andy
02-22-2009, 02:11 AM
ChinaV
After a good nights sleep I was up early and on the road by seven thirty. The morning was brisk as I headed north out of Ruyuan towards Nanling national park. Heavy morning fog was burning off and it looked like great weather would be in order for the day. I reached the entrance and paid the 60 Yuan (8.75 USD) fee, the attendant looked at the bike and couldn't believe I had come from Dongguan. "Go slow, bad road" he said, I just smiled and nodded. He gave me a couple extra maps, opened the gate and I motored along a few minutes before stopping to worship the fresh black asphalt they had laid down for me.
The rest was just retracing my path from the previous day. I'm glad I found this route, it's a great way up to the north-west corner of the province. Made it home 45 minutes before beer o'clock :goodtime: and celibrated with an extra beer, of course.
Date: 8-February-2009
Start Time: 7:22 AM ~ End Time: 5:11 PM
Total: 9 Hours 48 Minutes ~ Moving: 7 Hours 14 Minutes ~ Stopped: 2 Hours 34 Minutes
Distance: 455 Kilometers / 283 Miles
Average Speed: 46 kph / 29 mph
Average Moving Speed: 63 kph / 39 mph
Maximum Elevation: 1894 Meters / 6215 Feet.
Cheers!
ChinaV
02-22-2009, 05:05 AM
Brice
Nice RR :thumbsup: You are the king of the map and the mac.
Could be a good destination for a week end ride with the few other blokes from the area.:riding:
02-22-2009, 05:20 AM
chinabiker
Thanks for the pics and the report :thumbsup:
Impressive bridge construction there. Is it for road or rail ?
It seems you have good weather season in Guangdong.
From what I remember Jan and Feb are best.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brice
Nice RR :thumbsup: You are the king of the map and the mac.
Could be a good destination for a week end ride with the few other blokes from the area.:riding:
Would you accept blokes from other areas too ?:naughty::naughty:
Andy
02-22-2009, 05:43 AM
Brice
Quote:
Originally Posted by chinabiker
Would you accept blokes from other areas too ?:naughty::naughty:
Andy
It's your call.
02-22-2009, 11:38 AM
ChinaV
Thanks Brice and Andy..... I forgot to post the KMZ file the ride report, so here it is... open with Google Earth.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chinabiker
Impressive bridge construction there. Is it for road or rail ?
That's all road... just for motorcycles :lol8:. These elevated sections separating north and southbound traffic are just mind boggling when you think about the resources involved in their construction.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chinabiker
It seems you have good weather season in Guangdong.
From what I remember Jan and Feb are best.
November to mid December is my favorite, very comfortable. Last year we had snow in the north during December/January and it was unusually cold. This year has been great, only one week that I didn't ride in January. April to October is damn hot and the rains wipe out a lot of the mountain roads.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chinabiker
Would you accept blokes from other areas too ?:naughty::naughty:
Tokyokid gave it a try this week :thumbsup:. Nice to swap stories with a fellow China rider, here he is carving it up on the F650 in the mountains near my house.
I don't know anyone who does the GPS tracking thing as thoroughly as ChinaV! That's some sweet stuff... it would be great if we could compile a huge KMZ of all our tracks n' geotagged photos.
You guys in the GuangDong area got plans for an MCM meeting anytime soon? :mwink:
:riding:
CC
02-25-2009, 07:53 PM
tokyokid
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChinaV
Tokyokid gave it a try this week :thumbsup:. Nice to swap stories with a fellow China rider, here he is carving it up on the F650 in the mountains near my house.
Yeah ChinaV let me ride his BMW, my first BIG bike after driving school. :riding: Thanks man! :thumbsup:
Hope we can have a longer ride together after I will find a new bike.
If you need to get any info or maps on Guangdong ChinaV IS the guy!
I'm thinking of heading that direction tomorrow or the next day. Is that guy on the wire at certain times? You need to pay a park entrance fee or something I'm assuming to get in and see that? Anyway I'll have a few days to look around so surely I can locate him. That is SO epic! Awesome...
02-10-2015, 08:42 PM
ChinaV
Re: Guangdong, the nooks and crannies
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePope
I'm thinking of heading that direction tomorrow or the next day. Is that guy on the wire at certain times? You need to pay a park entrance fee or something I'm assuming to get in and see that? Anyway I'll have a few days to look around so surely I can locate him. That is SO epic! Awesome...
There's a KMZ file you can open in google earth that will show you exactly where I took the pictures. Being China, everything costs money now. Back when I took these photos I think it was 10 quai to get in, but it was easy to go around one side of the park and just walk in. I doubt you can get in there today for under 40 quai. The show ran every hour or so all day long. Even if you don't see the high wire act, the canyon is pretty awesome to look at.
If you follow the route on my KMZ file to Ruyuan, it goes right to the hotel I always stayed at. Ruyuan is a tourist town, so accommodations aren't cheap. I think the Baiyun Hotel was 320 the last time I was there... expensive, but very safe parking for your motorcycle. There are other less expensive places to stay in Ruyuan. Don't go to Shaoguan, it's pretty far out of the way from where any of the good scenic stuff is.
Ride safe and have fun, it's a beautiful area!
02-16-2015, 04:28 PM
ThePope
Re: Guangdong, the nooks and crannies
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChinaV
There's a KMZ file you can open in google earth that will show you exactly where I took the pictures. Being China, everything costs money now. Back when I took these photos I think it was 10 quai to get in, but it was easy to go around one side of the park and just walk in. I doubt you can get in there today for under 40 quai. The show ran every hour or so all day long. Even if you don't see the high wire act, the canyon is pretty awesome to look at.
If you follow the route on my KMZ file to Ruyuan, it goes right to the hotel I always stayed at. Ruyuan is a tourist town, so accommodations aren't cheap. I think the Baiyun Hotel was 320 the last time I was there... expensive, but very safe parking for your motorcycle. There are other less expensive places to stay in Ruyuan. Don't go to Shaoguan, it's pretty far out of the way from where any of the good scenic stuff is.
Ride safe and have fun, it's a beautiful area!
Things have changed indeed. The Canyon area is now much more developed for tourism and the cost to get in - 65 RMB - is significantly more expensive. Immediately after leaving the canyon my whole wiring harness caught on fire and burnt up due to a very shoddy wiring job on the part of my mechanic in Zengcheng. Not an ideal place to have problems, but luckily I wasn't traveling alone. My buddy had to tow me about 40 km to Ruyuan where I found a mechanic who managed to get it going enough to get me back to Guangzhou, but not without gouging the absolute shite out of me. Found a great hotel in Ruyuan for 120RMB. Not bad at all.
Just finished uploading this to YouTube. The canyon act is at about 14 minutes.
They're still playing the exact same audio track! :loll:
Nice vid Pope!
03-18-2015, 04:32 AM
DazeofThunder
Re: Guangdong, the nooks and crannies
great post and nice pictures! I'm from Dongguan as well. Would love to go on a long ride sometime, but I'm on a GSX-R750 and cannot handle dirt roads. Do you have any more recommendations for motorcycle friendly highways? Especially in 2015 because laws changed quite a bit from a few years ago.
