having a hard time finding a thread on the basic set up from out the box. tips and advice, also general break in methods. everything seems to be over my head here.
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having a hard time finding a thread on the basic set up from out the box. tips and advice, also general break in methods. everything seems to be over my head here.
http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/sh...MEC200-1/page2
Footer, welcome to the site, sorry for the lazy response to your posts. There appears to be some relevant info on the link above.
I would add. Check the torque of all the bolts you can find, just that they are tight, but don't go crazy wrenching on them. Make sure all bolts are threadlocked, Loctite 242 or 243 should be fine on most regular bolts. If you have problem finding info, I'd follow the Honda XR200 or XR 250 manual. http://www.allgarters.com/honda-xr250-service-manual-2/
Empty all the factory oil when the engine is hot, and fill it with 10W-40 mineral, the best quality motorcycle specific oil you can find.
Keep the bike under 4000 rpm for the first 500 miles and under maybe 5000-6000 for the next 500-1000, but follow manufacturer specific instructions if you have them. Personally I ride the bike above this when the engine is not under load (down hill) and then decelerate.
Anything else? Please ask.
that is the exact kind of info i was looking for!! i appreciate it! so do i assume the bolts from factory have locktite or do i take out every bolt i can find?
Highly unlikely. Best advice as ZMC888 advised, remove all bolts possible and apply loctite before tightening/torque to spec. Also agree that you don't want to overdo the tightening though, nothing worse than a stripped bolt head or shaft, or one that is snapped off in situ. If you don't check your bolts for tightness from the get go, then at least check them during/after each ride. Apply a mark on each bolt and the surface to which the bolt is inserted so you can readily see any bolt movement. The better PRC MC manufacturers are employing this method now... CFMOTO, QJ-Benelli et al.Quote:
Originally Posted by footer
This depends on the manufacturer. Take a look at the bolts, usually they threadlock the brake caliper bolts, brake rotor bolts and engine/frame bolts properly. If more than that great. Essentially you are looking to make sure nothing is hand-tight especially with critical bolts on the fork, brakes, bars and axles (make sure you tighten fork and axle bolts evenly or you'll hurt the alignment). Any other loose bolts found that are not critical will make riding the bike a happier experience with less vibrations. I know the manufacturers try a bit harder when they export than here in China, and maybe the importers and dealerships might help prepare the bike, but it isn't goping to hurt to check.Quote:
Originally Posted by footer
Also I'd change the oil on 300 miles then 500 miles then 1000. That's overkill, but it doesn't matter. Also if you have money you could think about changing the tires and brake pads.
thanks, and yes, had a question on tires, was going to start a new thread for that.
I find the stock tires fine. My '09 TMEC I bought with unknown miles (the speedo cable was off the bike) and since it was missing parts, I could never attach the replacement cable. I estimate that I put over 9000 miles in the year and a half I owned it, and only had issues with the stock front tire in March or so. I had bought a new rear tire in the fall when I had a nail puncture it. I had never touched the stock brake pads on the '09, either (I assume they were stock) and have not changed the pads on the '13 either in the past month or so, but I don't think it could hurt, either. My tires are the 17" f/r street setup, which have no business being on the beach-like sand we have all around Yuma in the desert (this area is definitely a 4 wheeler area unless you are one of those people that like riding high-powered 2 wheelers with paddle tires (I am not). What wheel setup did you get, footer?
Model: TMEC200-1
Manufacturer: TEMC
Engine: Single cylinder, 4-stroke, air-cooled
Engine Displacement: 196.98cc
Compression Ratio: 9.2:1
Bore x Stroke: 63.50mm x 62.20mm
Max Power: 14.08 hp @ 8500 rpm±350 rpm
Max Torque: 9.96 lb-ft @ 6500 rpm±350 rpm
Engine Oil Volume: 1 L
Start Mode: Electric start
Ignition Mode: CDI
Max Speed: 75 MPH
Brake System: Hydraulic Disk (front and rear)
Wheelbase: 1350mm
Min Ground Clearance: 230mm (9.06 in)
Overall Dimension (LxWxH): 2045mm x 840mm x 1120mm
Max Load: 159kg (350 lbs)
Net Weight: 123kg (271 lbs)
Fuel Tank Capacity: 3.17 gallons
Tire Size:
Enduro Front/Rear - 3.00-21/4.10-18
Street Version Front/Rear - 110/70-17 / 140/70-17
i believe i got the street version / i see the enduro sizes are 21 and 18. if i wanted i could get rims like that for this bike right? what is the advantage off road to have a larger front tire?
My 2 cents ; Don't even ride it with the factory oil just dump it and as z sed use decent oil from the get go. Think about who put that original oil in there and then think about how much they hate spending money . That is very bad oil.
thanks everyone!
i ended up getting one directly from excalibur, the tmec manufacturer (thanks to culcune) and they are putting it together and everything!