Hello everyone,
So my bike is brand new , what would you recommand me to do during the first 500kms ?
Thank you
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Hello everyone,
So my bike is brand new , what would you recommand me to do during the first 500kms ?
Thank you
Chinese bike ! Cross your fingers and hope it last longer then 500 more KM
If it was a none chinese bike then I would be saying take it easy for the first 500 km keep the revs down change the oil at ...... Ect
But with your chinese made bike "Does it really matter"
Good luck hope you have many 100000 km of trouble free rideing but some how I think that will be very unlikely.
http://www.quickmeme.com/img/6c/6c5e...61f5603864.jpg
Foisix, don't worry - it is highly likely, if you're at least a little careful, next 20 thousand kilometers nothing criminally wrong will happen to your bike.
Common recomendations for break-in period: check all bolts, nuts, cables and wiring, don't go over 2/3 of a throttle, go easy with the engine, don't ride it longer than half hour, change oil at ~300 kms and keep his level close to max.
Later on, I think you will not need someone else's advice what to do with your bike - you shall gather all info about your bike.
Plus avoidance of rapid acceleration and deceleration.
Good sound advise from Zorge now 1 from me first drain out the oil that came in the engine and replace it with some real good stuff . You will find the oil you take out from the engine from new is no better then cooking oil !
Some pretty sound advice already.
Check all the bolts, nuts, play in cables, spokes as these can possibly come lose/break - a good idea is to 'zip-tie' the spokes where one crosses over another (don't pull the zip-tie tight at the cross over point as this can place undue strain/stress on the spokes, just leave the zip-tie a little loose, then slide it down a little from the cross over point). What this does is protect the spoke from thrashing round in the event that a spoke comes loose or breaks. Spokes need certain amount of tension relative to all other spokes within the rim, which allows the rim/wheel to run true. Check condition of tyres (look for nicks, cuts, bulges etc.), and check tyre air pressures. Work through all the operating components, switches, check all bulbs work (headlight, tail, brake and indicator/turn signal lights etc.). Do a walk around of your motorcycle (MC) before you start off, and once satisfied, start the engine and while waiting for the engine to come up to temp, do another walk around your MC to ascertain if anything looks obviously loose, or any fluids are leaking, and listen to the sounds that your MC makes.
Back in time, motorcycle (MC) manufacturing processes meant that there were often variables in components and how they were put together. With today’s high-tech, often automated, highly computerised and mechanised processes you’ll find there is now uniformity between parts and a high degree of precision in assembly. This doesn’t guarantee things can’t go wrong, but modern production methods mean new engine failure is now a rarity. The caveat being TIC (LFZ) and the quality of the raw materials and components used! It is a Ch!nese made MC after all, made to a specific (low) price point, directed to a specific market segment (budget).
Notwithstanding, that doesn’t mean you should just get on your new MC irrespective of where it was manufactured, or by whom, and ride it as hard and as fast as you can. Even more so for the majority of MC's manufactured in PRC. While some people recommend riding a new/reconditioned engine hard (<link) from the get go and so forth, most engine/vehicle manufacturers disagree. Take a look at your MC owners manual and it will often outline something along the lines of the following... (see below).
All of the engine’s components need a period of running in before you start riding them hard.
The valves, cylinder bore and piston rings in a new engine all need time to wear in so they mate properly with the surfaces they interact in and with. If the valves don’t seat correctly against the cylinder head combustion chamber, the engine can lose compression and proper combustion. This, in turn, can lead to a 'blow-by' of exhaust gases, which causes power loss, and compromises the reliability and longevity of the engine.
Furthermore, a new engine’s cylinder bore may look smooth, but it can still be somewhat rough from the machining at the factory and the piston rings need time to seat-in (bed-in) to create a good seal. This is needed to keep the combustion gases separate from the engine oil. If the cylinder bore is not run-in properly the walls often become glazed which in turn will cause lubrication problems, leading to overheating, loss of performance and premature cylinder wear.
Two Options for 'breaking-in' your new Motorcycle
1: The first method is to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations often found in the owner’s manual. In general most manufacturers suggest that for the first 1000km/500 miles you do not use full throttle and avoid high engine speeds at all times.
You should also avoid aggressive starts/stops except in an emergency. Don’t over rev the engine when cold and also don’t lug the engine. Always down-shift a gear before the engine begins to struggle.
It's not recommended to ride a new MC at a constant speed for long periods of time. It's better to use the rev range, including short intervals of high revs (half to to thirds of the engines rev range). One of the worst things you can do to a new engine is be overly cautious with it, but you also shouldn't be running it so hard it's bouncing off the rev limiter. There's a happy medium between the two, which will work best for breaking-in a new engine.
2: This method is a little less rigid than what many manufacturers recommend. If you live near a mountain or a race track, they are both good places to break-in a new MC engine. First, never lug the engine around at low RPM and don’t ride at the same revs for long periods of time. You should be fluctuating the revs and engine speeds consistently. It’s probably best to ignore riding on the motorway/highway or expressway for the first 500km's as more often than not you’ll be riding at a constant speed and RPM for long periods of time, which is not good for a new engine.
For the first 500km's you should stick with conventional mineral oil in the engine SAE 10W-40 is the best option (if you’re not sure what oil is in your new MC then drain it and replace both the oil and oil filter too). You can change out for synthetic oil at ~3000km's.
Step-By-Step:
Before riding your new MC make sure you have read the owner’s manual if possible to see what specifically the manufacturer recommends. However keep in mind the moniker TIC and LFZ, there's a good chance the owner's manual (if you got one) will be inaccurate, full of Chinglish (if you're lucky), copied from some other manual, or just complete bullocks. After flushing the existing engine oil, replace with a conventional SAE 10W-40 mineral oil. Check the oil level is correct and start the engine, allow it to reach proper operating temperature before actually getting on and riding off. Keep in mind that some MC's can have dry sumps, so you might need to have run the engine for a specified period of time, to get some indication of oil level.
Try and find a road with light traffic and a place where you can actually open the MC up a bit, at least in the lower gears. Make sure you vary the engine speed as often as you can from the low mid-range to the upper mid-range for around 50km's. Essentially you’ll want to be in first 1/3 to your mid rev range. For example, with a MC which red lines at 10,000 RPM you need to be fluctuating between 2,000 - 5,000 RPM.
After those first 50km's, stop the MC and turn off the engine. Let it sit for about 15-20 minutes and then start the engine again. Then continue with how you have been riding previously varying the engine speed in the low to mid range, but this time raise the RPM to 6,500rpm and try to use engine braking as much as possible, by down-shifting into a lower gear.
Some people recommend changing the oil on a new MC after that first 50km ride, again at 100km's and then at 500km's. You could choose to do that. There’s no harm in doing it but it’s both time-consuming and costly. The most significant point is to change a new MC’s oil and oil filter at 1000km/500 miles.
With the running in process you should try and follow what you did on the first ride but increase the amount of mileage you do, still stopping for a short while in between and each time adding 1000RPM to the rev range and more importantly consistently varying the engine speed and revs throughout.
At 1000km's you should change the oil and filter when the engine is still warm (but not baking hot). Inspect the oil for any metal debris which will usually collect on most MC oil drain plugs which have a magnet to attract metal flakes/shavings etc. Don’t be alarmed if there are some metal flakes as this is perfectly normal. Once you’ve passed the 1000km mark you can start heading out on the motorway/highway/expressway etc. but still mix your ride with plenty of street riding too.
At 2500km, change the oil and oil filter again. You could choose to use a good quality synthetic oil that’s appropriate for your engine and weather conditions where you live or if you prefer stick with a mineral oil. It’s at this point that your new engine is considered to be broken-in.
Now just get out there and ride that MC.
Shiny side up.
:riding:
Just one of your quick replies Doc you are a gem mate must be quite at work today heheh
Waoo thanks everyone for taking time for me, I'll follow your advices and let you know if everything is ok soon . I've already done 200 kms and the engine sounds ok , oil ok ! I'm "trying" to stay around 4000rpm and where I live there is no highway just tracks so always changing gear . Thanks again
Change the oil and filter now !! Just changed the oil on a new Lifan engine only after 500 km look at the shit that was Collected around the oil filter !!! Take no chances change it sooner then later
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YES SIR !!!:mwink:
Do you know if there is a baffle inside the exhaust and later how can I remove it?
If you allow me, I would remind you that CG clone, same one like on Foisix's bike, does not have real, removable, filter element, but oil spinner, aka. centrifugal oil filter. In order to reach this filter and open it (by unscrewing 3 bolts) and wipe all the sh&#, you must remove right side crankcase cover. In front of the oil pump, probably there is some sort of the net, so if you remove crankcase cover, you should see if there is something on it.
Foisix, do not look for Hi-Tec oil - this engine was developed at a time when there was nothing else, but a dino oils. Today, any decent semi-synthetic oil without anti friction aditives will do the job.
And, if you can, find magnetic drain plug.
So I don't have to change any filter?
It's based from CG125 ie. designed for developing country that needs cleaning ONLY
Ok I'll try, no pb for the moment the bike runs well , no vibration , good sound. 80 more km and I'll change oil.
Yes - no filters to change.Quote:
Originally Posted by Foisix
In order not to torture you my with my awful English, here's video guide to you to do the entire procedure:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyhfqa3QP5k
BTW, there are "bolt/on" oil cooler kits for CG clones. Good thing, if you use bike in a hot climate.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Foisix
By the sound of things and by watching the video you just have a very small finger type filter !! That you need to wash , never a good design engine are not incoperated with a better design filter TIC
Maybe it could be a good idea if when you change the oil you then flush the engine with a flushing agent before you fill up the engine with new oil , this way you can make sure all the fine metal deposit are total removed from your engine .
This "thimble" is a mere protection for oil pump, in order to prevent that some larger particles can not be sucked in. Main job is on centrifugal filter, although, today's oils have additives which dissolve preety good carbon deposits and resins that can occur over time inside the crankcase.
Also, it is possible to fit some oil filter, using engine head cover with oil inlet/outlet, the same which has been used to fit oil cooler.
And Foisix, it can be useful for engine hygiene to bring end of the engine breather hose somewhere under the seat (no dust there). I used a filter from my bike's SAI system, and put it on the end of that hose.
Ok , thanks a lot for all your advices , I'll send you pictures when I get to change oil... Another question, the gear box is a bit rough is it normal, because it's brand new?
Rough in sense not smoooth shifting with a loud "clank" sound or it is noisy in any gear?
Yes, after some time, gearbox will become smoother, but picking adequate oil is also important. But I do not want to confuse you even more - you'll figure it out by yourself.
Also, you should check clutch cable - sometimes they are too loose and this clutch lever on the crankcase cover can not be pulled enough, so friction discs and plates are not disconnected completely, and as a results you'll hear that rough sound while shifting gears.
As regards this humming sound from the gearbox, there is no help. All gears are straight cut, so noise is their side-effect.
Oh my, this English drained me...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Foisix
I also found that I was having prolems engaging natural but after 600km and a change of oil it is a lot better but not spot on! Hope after 1000 km more should see a better improvement .
Ok maybe it'll get smoother after Ichange oil.... sorry for my very bad English
No, no.... on this forum, MY English is beyond reproach! :lol8:
BTW, this has already been mentioned on this thread, but still...
In next, say, half year, you can take your wheels and go to a local bike shop to check the spokes and, if necessary, tighten them.
Zorge my Grammar has been criticise on here before and I am English. Heheh you are doing good I understand what you are saying very well for all the other people who are generally English teachers working in China I say to them get a life ! We need more people on MCM to post regardless of there level of English grammar
You just keep up the good work and keep posting
Have a good day
Ok , changing oil today, I'll let know with pics !