pulse adrenaline bogging out at 8000 rpm

i have put a new lextek oval s/steel exhaust, k&n air filter, blanked the egr off and vaccum sealed the manifold but when i put in the 105 jets in it it runs fine but once i reach 8000 rpm it boggs out and with the standard 97.5 jets in bike runs fine but once it reaches 9-10,000 rpm it boggs out but not as much or hard as when the 105 jets are in it runs better now than what it ever has but just has this problem is it the air/fuel mixture screw? is that the screw on the side of carb? when i did put the 105 jets in i thought it was fine and didnt fiddle with the air/fuel mixture screw untill i took the bike out and realising that it was bogging out then i did fiddle with the screw on the side but it just seemed to rev higher or lower so i put it back to normal revs

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Originally Posted by Dan SM

i have put a new lextek oval s/steel exhaust, k&n air filter, blanked the egr off and vaccum sealed the manifold but when i put in the 105 jets in it it runs fine but once i reach 8000 rpm it boggs out and with the standard 97.5 jets in bike runs fine but once it reaches 9-10,000 rpm it boggs out but not as much or hard as when the 105 jets are in it runs better now than what it ever has but just has this problem is it the air/fuel mixture screw? is that the screw on the side of carb? when i did put the 105 jets in i thought it was fine and didnt fiddle with the air/fuel mixture screw untill i took the bike out and realising that it was bogging out then i did fiddle with the screw on the side but it just seemed to rev higher or lower so i put it back to normal revs

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Did you check the spark plug after each run ???

With a change of jets you will need to adjust the fuel/air, you can do a Google search to find out how to do.

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Originally Posted by prince666

Did you check the spark plug after each run ???

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no i was going to try that today and adjust the fuel screw because thats what people where telling me on a facebook page to do and it says it on yahoo answers aswell but its raining today so im going to have to wait thank's :D

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Originally Posted by Dan SM

no i was going to try that today and adjust the fuel screw because thats what people where telling me on a facebook page to do and it says it on yahoo answers aswell but its raining today so im going to have to wait thank's :D

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I am sure you will sort it out Dan good luck and post back what happen please

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Originally Posted by prince666

I am sure you will sort it out Dan good luck and post back what happen please

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ive tryed a few things with no luck so it has to be the fuel/air screw and will do :D

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Originally Posted by prince666

I am sure you will sort it out Dan good luck and post back what happen please

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cant seem to get the fuel screw set right its bogging out around 6-8000 rpm now sat for hours yesterday trying to get it and its very ackward getting at the fuel screw ive to use a drill bit as its underneath the carb and its hard to fit hands in and ive put a cloth over exhaust and piece of carb board up against engine so i dont burn myself lol

Did you tried to fit this E-ring on a jet needle one reeces down and then to tune carburetor?

But if the problem is with screwing/unscrewing of a air screw, I believe that you can find adequate, elongated air screw (damn, too much screwing in just one sentence; this English is killing me), so you could do the job with your bare hands.

They look something like this:

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/ODUzWDEyOD...RP!~~60_35.JPG

...and they come in red too.

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Originally Posted by Zorge

Did you tried to fit this E-ring on a jet needle one reeces down and then to tune carburetor?

But if the problem is with screwing/unscrewing of a air screw, I believe that you can find adequate, elongated air screw (damn, too much screwing in just one sentence; this English is killing me), so you could do the job with your bare hands.

They look something like this:

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/ODUzWDEyOD...RP!~~60_35.JPG

...and they come in red too.

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is there certain sizes in these to get i think my carbs a mikuni vm22 or pz22 i think there the same anyway i sat yesterday for hours trying to get it set right with no luck as i cant see how many times ive screwed it ands its very hard to get at the fuel screw on it and impossible to see what im doing. im ready for giving it up and taking it to shop to fix but i want to learn how to do it myself.

Grab Vernier caliper, do some measuring and start asking those who ate selling tuning sundries.

And again: did you do something with the Е-ring on the needle?

Yes theres only three notches and i tryed putting it up one but with no luck there wasnt a difference so i put it back in middle where is was before but im going to try put it down a notch as i found this diagram amd it says putting it down lets more fuel in and thats why im thinking its bogging out at high revs due to fuel starvation Attachment 17117

Different profile needle?

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Originally Posted by Zorge

Different profile needle?

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tried putting it down to bottom notch with no luck aswell same thing bogging at 8000 rpm tried ringing local repair shop they said they dont do things like this so the rest of shops will probably say the same so now im stuck with the bike bogging at 8000 rpm

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Originally Posted by Dan SM

Yes theres only three notches and i tryed putting it up one but with no luck there wasnt a difference so i put it back in middle where is was before but im going to try put it down a notch as i found this diagram amd it says putting it down lets more fuel in and thats why im thinking its bogging out at high revs due to fuel starvation Attachment 17117

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So when you say bogging you mean the revs aren't going past 8000? Bogging is caused by too much fuel and not enough air in the mixture. I assume you can walk the throttle open wide and there is also no bogging until 8000? How about in neutral? The same?

I recommend turning the air and mixture screw fully in and then screwing it out about 1.5 turns. See how it runs. My bet would be the needle pin or maybe the needle itself. Infact, what's the colour of your spark plug? Black is rich, white is lean. It should be a nice brown colour.

Anyway, I'll stop rattling on. I recommend dropping the main jet a size and see if it improves, let me know how you get on. If not, get the thing on the dyno, that way it can be set up properly. Josh

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Originally Posted by Joshmakesnoise

So when you say bogging you mean the revs aren't going past 8000? Bogging is caused by too much fuel and not enough air in the mixture. I assume you can walk the throttle open wide and there is also no bogging until 8000? How about in neutral? The same?

I recommend turning the air and mixture screw fully in and then screwing it out about 1.5 turns. See how it runs. My bet would be the needle pin or maybe the needle itself. Infact, what's the colour of your spark plug? Black is rich, white is lean. It should be a nice brown colour.

Anyway, I'll stop rattling on. I recommend dropping the main jet a size and see if it improves, let me know how you get on. If not, get the thing on the dyno, that way it can be set up properly. Josh

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i just realized if i pull the throttle back slowly it goes past 8000 rpm just like normal but if i pull it back abit to quick it bogs out at 8000 rpm and doesn't go past it and yes its doing this in neutral is this a sign of too much fuel and its flooding? i just checked the spark plug and it was black but i didn't do a plug chop but i cleaned it there and put it back in and left it running awhile and theres no black looks the same as when i cleaned and put it in altho theres was a slight bit of liquid on it im assuming its petrol but didnt smell to strong of petrol i tried the needle but i'm open to try anything so i will try it again where do you recommend to put it it only has 3 notches for the circlip its in middle atm ? i will try screwing the fuel screw fully in then out 1.5 as you suggested and i'll let you know how it goes thanks.

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Originally Posted by Dan SM

i just realized if i pull the throttle back slowly it goes past 8000 rpm just like normal but if i pull it back abit to quick it bogs out at 8000 rpm and doesn't go past it and yes its doing this in neutral is this a sign of too much fuel and its flooding? i just checked the spark plug and it was black but i didn't do a plug chop but i cleaned it there and put it back in and left it running awhile and theres no black looks the same as when i cleaned and put it in altho theres was a slight bit of liquid on it im assuming its petrol but didnt smell to strong of petrol i tried the needle but i'm open to try anything so i will try it again where do you recommend to put it it only has 3 notches for the circlip its in middle atm ? i will try screwing the fuel screw fully in then out 1.5 as you suggested and i'll let you know how it goes thanks.

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I recommend trying each notch to see if there is any improvement if it gets worse in the top notch try the bottom notch. This is all trial and error, if middle notch is best then leave it there. I would recommend lowering the main jet a size and see if it improves a little. If it doesn't then check the plug colour and look for a nice brown colour. If it goes white that means you're lean and that means you are starving your engine a fuel which will most likely end up with a seized engine of you keep riding it.

So as I say, go down 1 jet on the main and then check the plug colour and see how it rides. If it bogs less but isn't bogging as much try 1 size lower again. Keep checking the plug colour and also your insincts when riding. Let us know how you get on.

Josh

Dan, we already disscused carb tuning on this forum: http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/sh...e-Basics/page6

Also, not once emerged link to PZ carb tuning - http://www.walbro.com/media/22805/PZ-Tune.pdf

i tryed a thing online and it said 'does it run better with the choke on at full throttle, if yes then
1. your getting to much air
2. your fuel flow isn't good enough
3. your main jets to small
i tryed this and it does run better with the choke on and the link to PZ carb tuning that you sent says the same on symptoms of running lean if it runs better with partial choke on, so im thinking the bikes running too lean so if i put the the circlip on the jet needle down to bottom notch (there only is three and its in middle) and screw the fuel screw out should that richen the carb out enough or would i need bigger jets again?

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Originally Posted by Dan SM

i tryed a thing online and it said 'does it run better with the choke on at full throttle, if yes then
1. your getting to much air
2. your fuel flow isn't good enough
3. your main jets to small
i tryed this and it does run better with the choke on and the link to PZ carb tuning that you sent says the same on symptoms of running lean if it runs better with partial choke on, so im thinking the bikes running too lean so if i put the the circlip on the jet needle down to bottom notch (there only is three and its in middle) and screw the fuel screw out should that richen the carb out enough or would i need bigger jets again?

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If you're running lean then your plug would be a white colour or a light colour, not black. Try a new plug in the bike and check the colour again. Or post a picture, but if it's black im saying too rich.

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Originally Posted by Joshmakesnoise

If you're running lean then your plug would be a white colour or a light colour, not black. Try a new plug in the bike and check the colour again. Or post a picture, but if it's black im saying too rich.

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when i first done the plug check it was black but that was the plug in it before i done the changes in jets, airfilter and exhuast i took it out cleaned it and done a plug chop and when i done that the plug was the roughly as clean as when i put it in but there was a liquid residue on it but didnt smell of petrol

You "tryed a thing online"? Not gonna work - you have to get your hands dirty. :icon10:

BTW, in Chinese online shops you can get cute CV carbie for "Suzuki" clones for 20-25 quid.

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Originally Posted by Zorge

You "tryed a thing online"? Not gonna work - you have to get your hands dirty. :icon10:

BTW, in Chinese online shops you can get cute CV carbie for "Suzuki" clones for 20-25 quid.

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it also says it in the PZ carb tuning link you sent me aswell and i dont think i could tune a new carb i cant even get the jets right on one lol i'm going to try another plug chop and i'l upload pictures

i done another plug chop plug was abit dirty before as i don't have and others but i cleaned it, it hasn't changed so it hasn't got any dirtier/darker
Attachment 17120

and this is my other plug the new one i had put in i cleaned it before i went out and used it to warm bike up and to drive it home after using the other plug for the plug chop it also hasn't got any dirtier/darker so i'm thinking the bike is running lean is this right?
Attachment 17121

Look like lean...

Just for sake of experiment, take off that orange thing and wrap half of a air filter with insulation/duct/scotch tape, take a spin and check again plugs.

Like this? I'll take it out now and check

Attachment 17122

i went out for there and it was working abit better as it wasn't bogging as hard but then it started bogging more at around 5-6000 rpm think it was because the engine heated up abit