Superbyke RSR / Sinnis Stealth rev counter is dead / no nightlights

Greetings!

I've bought a second hand bike, quickly started to love it, but:

Well, analog speedo works, aswell as digital fuel gauge, and all the lights, but the analog rev counter lies on 0. period.

-Do you have any idea how can I fix it?

and a second question:
-do the RSR have some kind of nighttime clock lights? I've done some nighttime riding today, but both my speedo and my rev counter gauge was pitch black :D if we don't count the fuel gauge's lights. So I can't see my speed at night. Dim light, night light, and full beam works like a charm, aswell as backlights, and transmission gear light.


though I had a weird little show on this morning with the direction/index lights:

I just tested all the lights, when realised, that the index lights prone to blink slower, or faster- and sometimes stopped alltogether. Then it went all dead, without even the characteristic index ticking. so, index switch was dead in both directions for minutes.

Then, after some time, it started to work again, like a charm- right after I was testing the starter, choke, engine.

Now it seems to work fine. I don't think it was the battery, as all other lights worked strong, switching them off, or on doesn't changed the dead indexes... But -now- they are okay.... O_o
Also, te siwtch itself is hard, dynamic, not even the paint was faded-like a new- so I' dont think that was the cause


I have this bike since 2 days, (made in 2009, around 6-7000 miles it went) and preparing it for an MOT test to get it back on the road. I wouldnt like if they just can't switch on the indexes XD and deem it as unusable

Can you help me with these two questions, and if you have a thought about the indexes, that would be great aswell!

Qingqi called that model as [国骏] / QM200-2D | QM125-2D ...
Parts:
http://atv52.ru/upload/4fa2606840d32.pdf
http://startright.co.uk/manuals/sinnis/apacheengine.pdf

Proof the electrics by test light | multimeter. lights strong or not don't tells the truth...
Basics: http://www.dansmc.com/mc_repaircourse.htm
Factory shop manual (for the bigger bro "200") http://pan.baidu.com/s/1sjqfYlZ | Suzi 125 manual (Spanish. Most useful part is engine datas ONLY. Exact procedures can find via 200 shop manual... ) http://www.4shared.com/office/Y8LWA4la/
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Rev :
Checks ALL related parts... (From parts manual, u know that they're NOT mechanic type ie. electronic type that reads signal from engine. w/o higher electronic knowledge = can check loosen /broken wire ONLY ) | Worst case u need a new instrument http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=6140232426
Clock light:
Lossen wiring OR blown bulb (v-shaped single LED is suitable in there http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201360090393 . NOT too bright & the light angle is OK )
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Indexes are related to s/w, wiring & flasher (that 2 leg thingy). If s/w & wiring OK, flasher is 100% F***ed (under 20p in it's motherland ... http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=38700497132)

Unfortunately those manuals are not for your model.
I am wondering if your electrical issues are all related, or maybe they are separate issues.
The tach is electrical, it’s getting its signal off the stator, which sends it to the rectifier, then to the tach. It may have an inline fuse?
The blinkers, same thing except they just get a steady stream of 12v off the rectifier, were as the tach gets pulses, so they are both connected but differently to the rectifier.
I am not sure but if you see variability in the blinkers then is it the rectifier that is doing that, or is the flasher relay sticking. I do not think it’s the relay.
Since you have more than one electrical issue it makes me think they are related, but they may not be.
It be helpful if you had a manual for your model, they share allot with the GY, however the gauges and related wiring are different.

Yes, for the clock lights, it was the bulbs. With the help of some WD-40, I was able to take out all 34242 bolts and screws, and found out that only the indicator notifier bulb was intact, left and right clock lights (same bulbs) was blown. Aswell as the much smaller light beam indicator bulb. So all these three were blown. I took out the indicator notifier, and pushed it into the speedometer's night light slot, and voila, light shows, when beam is switched on.


Makes me wonder why these three were blown years ago, and why the indicator notifier won't... sits on the same wires.


As for the indicators: I took out the battery, and the two-legged black cube that was attached to the side of the battery- I think that makes the indicator tack noise. the text on it's side is:

SC-2A

dc12.8V 85c/min 10w x 2+2W

Cleaned all wires a bit, but nothing more I could do, nor I found any other parts that might be a part of the indicator process. might be under the tank, if any exists, which still part of the indicators.

putted it all back, the indicator rhytm is Still a bit random. Sometimes slows down dangerously.



AS for the rev counter, I don't have any idea... Circuits on it looks O.K., no black or bumpy transistors, and the fuel meter works ok. Needle wasn't stuck, by hand it rotates as lightly as the speedo's.

P.S.: (I just hope that the speedo cable I unscrewed from the speedo's back goes back and going to work as before....)

I think I buy some bulbs, hope a normal car/bike shop sells them, and the smaller beam indicator type bulb aswell..

Did u check the continuity of sensor wire?
It needs [trigger (+) OR ign coil input (+)] as #1 http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=20610624652

Bought some nice bulbs- 5w gauge lights instead of 2w also, but finally I installed the 2 w ones. Full beam signal lamp aswell.

I managed to weaken the battery- starter motor does not moves anymore, and headlamp lights became really weak... XD

So I have to wait until the 10th, when my new battery and battery charger gets here.


Previous owner gave 4 led direction indicators for it, (curiously enough: white ones O_o I'm not sure they are legal isntead of orange) and they came with a pulse relay specifically for leds. Well, I tried that with my normal, classic direction indicator bulbs, and VOILA, no index ticking sound anymore, but strong, exactly right speed, and continuous indexing in all driections...

I never thought it going to work with normal bulbs. It works like a charm, just no ticking sound anymore :D well, my dashboard indicator notifier shows me if I index anyway.


I have to follow the wires from the rev counter, thought it's going to be hard, as they are all join into a large rubber hose.... And I don't know wich one leaves where.

ANother alarming discovery (maybe not important) is that the chain's upper side, near the engine, are lying on a piece of long rubber carpet on top of the rear wheel's left side holder. I was thinking it's might lift up if I sit on the bike and my weight pushes down the bike, but it ain't.

So it seems that the chain is running right from the engine's cogwheel to on top of that rubber carpet... On high speed that would really slows down the bike, and also kind of burns, not?

Please, help me with this

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Packleader

I managed to weaken the battery- starter motor does not moves anymore, and headlamp lights became really weak...
came with a pulse relay specifically for leds. Well, I tried that with my normal, classic direction indicator bulbs, and VOILA, no index ticking sound anymore, but strong, exactly right speed, and continuous indexing in all driections...

I never thought it going to work with normal bulbs. It works like a charm, just no ticking sound anymore ...

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That stock battery are famous for short life. http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=9238
Bump / push start skill & the gadget is a MUST owning these bike...
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Ticking sound : Stock flasher had "buzzer" built-in (i'm "more feature, higher failure" believer... )
Most aftermarket LED flasher are "universal" design...
http://gd2.alicdn.com/bao/uploaded/i...0-item_pic.jpg

Thanks! I'm planning to order a Yuasa YB9-B YB9B battery for it! And a Lextek Motorcycle 12v Battery Optimiser Charger.
I hope theye are ok. What do you think about them?


Now my main concern is that thick rubber carpet on top of he rear wheel's holding bar, where my chain lies peacefully on top.... :( managed to shoot some pictures:

Attachment 17789Attachment 17790Attachment 17791

There's not millimeter space, it lies on top of it at least 12 cm long. WHen I was riding out for 5-6 minutes, the bike felt ok, speeded up to 20 mph, but when I went home, there was a very slight burnt plastic smell. Maybe this was the cause. Is this normal, that the chain lies on top of that rubber?

P.S.:

Also, I tried to follow the tachometer wires, but without removing the tank it's not really possible XD
So I went on to examine around the engine. But so much wires goes in, and I also do not want to open the gearbox or any part like that XD just to make sure every wire is connected, that I'm lost in this quest to fint the cause of the dead rev meter. the gauge's circuit seems O.K. after a second blink, especially that fuel meter works alright.

That concludes that I am a total noob in this topic... Since then I identified the chain lead guard/rubber... XD

But forget the fact that all noobs should be killed for a second, and please help me out, is this normal, that the chain sits tight on top of it in every situation?
Or should it be slightly over it instead, just touching it accidentally sometimes?

Please help me out

Sincerelly,

Daniel

It's just like push bike. Wears = longer chain, adjust it (ref to "200" shop manual above/ vdo in youtube/ pals that knows bike...).
If wears too much ie. adjustment don't work anymore, u need a new chain (& sprocket. Ref to picture in shop manual for what's a "healthy" look...)

No, the chain should not be tight. It stretches if it is tight and it can eventually ruin some components on the engine.

The lower part of the chain, that hangs, have a 2 - 2.5 cm play to it up and down, and I can fairly easily lift up the upper part of the chain (what sits on the rubber) for at least 1 cm. So as far as I can tell, it's not too tight-if I get it tighter, that's not going to lift up the upper part from the rubber, as I see the angles- and getting it more slacker also can't lift it up.

So it's not normal, that the upper part of the chain is resting/lying right on the rubber? There should be some space between the rubber guard, and the chain, or it is ok, that it's lying on it like that? with my finger I can lift it of course, doesn't seem too tight, neither too loose

http://s15.postimg.org/yl0rw17c9/Imdge2.gif
http://s15.postimg.org/yl0rw17c9/Imdge2.gif
The chain freeplay w/o LOAD :icon10: (find a pal similar to ur bodyweight sit on it...) is meaning less.

Yep, I checked the chain slackness without load only. I ask my girlfriend to sit XD and do a recheck, only 10 kg difference.. lol

But: I checked the chain sitting on the rubber WITH load: I can easily reach the top of the chain while im sitting on the bike, and the bike is balanced, yet still 90% of my weight is on the saddle as I only need to lean very slightly, (not the bike, the bike is absolutely straight up) and as i felt, the chain still sits on top of the rubber guard slide, not lifting up at all. I wrote this before/ so is it a problem if the chain sits on the rubber all the time? or it!s normal?

As the chain flexes and bounces it hit that rubber, if it is not worn away, like a rut in it or groove in it why worry, it’s intended to prevent the chain from hitting against the metal.
I have a Qingqi it has rubber there, it’s a QM200GY-B(BSD) I replaced it when I replaced the chain. It to me is a wear part, replace it if it gets worn out.

I see, I had the same idea, that the rubber is there to keep the chain away from the metal. BUT: mine does not touch it occasionally, it's sits on top of it all the time, as -lying on it- , even when my weight is on the bike- the chain -never- lifts up, never leaves the rubber. Stays on it all the time. Is that normal?

Hi, just jumped back before the MOT:

What fuel I should use? I mean, unleaded petrol, yes- but what octane? As far as I read, there's no point to really raise octane level, but what is that is generally "better", and still not wasting money? Is a 91 octane is good? All seems to avoid 87, or anything less than 91. Or shoudl I use 95?

Can you help me with this? :D have to refuel before the MOT at the morning

ANY petrol better than chinese http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/sh...-Shitty-petrol are OK.
The most available was 93RON, changed as 92RON http://en.people.cn/90882/7673481.html nowadays
http://www.petrolprices.com/about-fuel.html
U don't have much choice in UK. ALL "Ordinary" unleaded is 95 RON https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane...mber_.28RON.29
87/89/91 is "AKI" https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane...28R.2BM.29.2F2

Thank you very much! :)

Well, passed MOT, (as the carburettor finally stopped pissing gas from the overflow hose as the guy during the MOT hit it gently with a rubber mallet) with two advices:

- change first tyre, as deep cracks developed inside all threads, (does not going to pair with rear, as that's a "pirelli", and I wont going to pay 1/6 of the bike for a tyre XD but it will be a "continental", guy already ordere for me. 60 quids.)

-and keep an eye on the rear chain sprocket, as it has a very minimal play...

So, we are on the road- with the help of all your advices guys. :)

I filled it with 95 unleaded, you were right, Tesco station sold only this, something super, and diesel :D
Only bought 13.5 liter though, as I couldn't see how full was the tank, and despite she was almost dry, WELL in the reserve tank, last red sign at the gauge, I doesn't wanted to risk overflow- as sometimes I read 22 liter for it's tank, sometimes 14, sometimes 15 at the internet....

I'Ve read that I should inflate the tyres to 40 psi, but the station lady insisted that that would be too much, so she only put it up to 30 psi.

So, whats the truth? Should I put some more in to reach 40, or 30 will do? Which is better?






Thank you for your answers, we did get started out of total noobism and a semi-roadworthy bike to MOT and beginner driver/owner :)