TXM's Electrical fault?

Hello
Now I’m having the following problem. After I increase the throttle lets say above 70% my bike acts like if it has a rev limiter or current limiter let’s say.It just coughs and sputters. I found that the contacts that are inside the connector (bosh type) that join the ignition coil to the CDI are sulfated (green, whitish); I discovered that after cleaning them I can start the bike quicker. Now I think that the problem when I give full throttle could be something related to this or the CDI. It’s similar also to a poor (lean) mixture, but I think it’s more electrical.
What do you think? Any thoughts?

It doesn't sound like the rev-limiter, if one is fitted. The rev limiter is set very high, 1000 or more rpm above the max power revs.
Bad connections could cause it as well as a bad spark plug. Do you still have the original Chinese plug fitted?. If so change it to an NGK and your problem will go away and the bike will run a lot better.

I still have the original,but I believe that is a NGK,I'll check and I'll tell you .

Vaccume leaks can cause strange running at high RPM. Also a clogged/dirty jet in the carbs.

What does your spark plug look like?

CC

I changed all the Bosch type terminals,they were sulfated and I think they were made of a cheaper alloy or cooper,the ones I put now are made of a harder alloy,I think a huge percent of bronce if they are not 100%. I sealed the whole switch that encapsulates de terminals with 3m auto-soldering tape,and the bike seams to be ok now.
I'll check the vacumm leaks you told me too and the jetting since I know they can give trouble.
One thing i noticed is that inside a cable I mean lets say the 30% of the filaments are brown or black ,should i replace that cable?I think its the trigger for the cdi pulse or the +12V.
I'll keep you informed.

The discoloration of the cable strands should not affect the cable resistance or its current carrying capacity. However bad connections specially in the pulser circuit wire are bad. The pulser only produces a very weak signal, 0.6 volts or so. Any resistance in this wire or connector will affect the ignition.

Which could be the cause of the discoloration?
Just in case I've to change the cable at both sides, can I change the engine side cable? I mean the one it comes from the engine? Or should I change the whole alternator?

Poor quality cable. The tinned finish is below standard and the plastic insulating cover is not tight-fitting allowing water and road contaminants to corrode the strands.
This is assuming they even used tin-plated wire in the cables. If the strands are not even tinned then copper quickly corrodes.

The end of the cable on the engine side is probably soldered inside the final insulating tape layer of the coil, and this would mean undoing that layer. The cure could be worse than the illness. I wouldn't do it.

Oh OK.I see.

Now I wonder how its made the electrical contact inside the engine when I put neutral with my shift lever? Is it like a switch that when I put the lever in neutral activates and gives ground to the CDI?
Do you have any picture of that assembly?

You mean the switch that turns on the neutral light?. The method varies but it's usually a contact inserted into the gearbox that rotates with the gear selector cam drum. On Hondas it can be found next to the gearbox sprocket. It looks like a small black plastic thing and has a single wire going to it. The lamp receives 12 volts at one end and only comes on when that switch earths the other end of the wire.

yes thats what I was talking about:thumbsup:,my bike has a connection with 6 wires(only 1 is used) i guess it gives you the possibility to have a gear indicator on the panel.

Do you have any picture of the mechanism?:clap:

My spark plug is grey and a bit brownish on the insulator and the electrode is getting small. The inside walls of the spark plug are black,like they have charcoal deposits all over the wall.Is this correct? What should I expect riding my bike,idle?

TMX,

If your plug looks like this it should be okay....

http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/graphic...ons/normal.jpg

For a more complete set of pictures and explanations of diagnosing plug/running conditions visit the below link...

http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/t.../diagnosis.htm

CC

How much should a spark plug last? In my case for example,I've a 200cc engine and I'm all the time acelerating and braking.

On my 200 cc Qingqi it just recommends inspection every 3000 km and replacement if the electrodes seem worn down. Due to the relatively low cost I would replace it at 6 to 8000 km. Iridium ones should last a lot longer.

Anyone has ever tryed those RACING CDI.Is it real that they increase the HorsePower up to 20%? What do you think?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by txm123

Anyone has ever tryed those RACING CDI.Is it real that they increase the HorsePower up to 20%? What do you think?

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Not really. There are lots on the market. Most just remove the RPM limiter enabling higher revs to be achieved in tuned engines. Most claims are a scam. The fact that they claim such power increases proves that. No ignition system can do that. Ask to see a dyno test sheet.

Some of the better ones increase the amount and speed of ignition advance and the engine will feel livelier in mid-range and maybe remove some flat spots in the rev range.
Ultimate power output can not be changed without changing the maximum advance setting, and this is fixed by the position of the pulser coil relative to the magneto rotor. Whatever CDI unit you fit, it can only play with the advance curve between say 8 degrees at cranking speeds and 15 degrees maximum advance.