sprocket problems

I have been getting some online help but struggling hard to fit the new 36t sprocket on the Kinlon R/T 200 rear. Lots of fun getting the circlip off and breaking the chain without proper tools but finally got there.

Then bugger me if the new sprocket doesn't wobble!

I think the buffer cushions are OK as after a lot of work I put the old sprocket back - and it doesn't wobble. So my reckoning is that the new sprocket doesn't sit tight against the spring clip which holds it back to the hub. Like many, this sprocket has four through bolts that have threadless rear shafts that sit into rubber mounted sockets. number 14 on the diagram below.

I can't imagine making or finding a safe shim to squeeze the new, slightly thinner, sprocket against the circlip/springclip. All I can think of to hold it tight is to put washers between the sprocket bolts and the buffer cushions.

Do you mechanically experienced types reckon this would work and be safe? XXX if you are still about .... HELP. What did you do?

Attachment 2806

Assuming that the center hole in the sprocket is the correct size to fit over the hub without a lot of slop it would mean the sprocket itself is too thin. In that case I would get a piece of sheet metal and make a shim/spacer to fit between the sprocket and the hub or between the circlip and the sprocket.

jape,
Fun huh? Could the sprocket be wrong? Maybe thin washers on both sides of the sprocket to keep it centered? Damn if I know.

I'm with hugemoth. If you have calipers, measure the difference in thickness between the two sprockets and make a shim to line everything up. Check out Forchetto's post about the sprocket bolts to alleviate any worries.

http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/sh...ighlight=bolts

In the end I went with the washers as I don't have tools or materials handy to make a shim. I found the right size washers quite easily in my 'one day' pile of bent bolts and bits and pieces. They fitted the bolt shaft tightly and settled into the buffer cushion sockets in the hub, well. This bike doesn't have simple bolts, it has bolts that have a center 'plate' or whatever you would call it that fits below the threads and locates to one side of the sprocket while the nut sits on the other. Then below the plate thing (like a washer welded on halfway down), the sprocket bolt shaft is not threaded and suts tight into the buffer cushion socket ... lol, follow that if you can. I ahve done fifty miles and all is tight still.

G’day mate, just wondering how many (in mm’s) worth of washers did you end up using. When we took sprocket off the other day we noticed the difference in the offset style sprocket OEM and the aftermarket (more straight) was around 11mm’s odd. This is a bucket load of washers. Just wondering how your R/T model worked out?

11mm? Bloody hell, that is a huge difference, can't be just sprocket thickness and offset surely? You got pics? Mine wasn't what you would call offset on the R/T. Difficult to just imagine how there could be that much difference. Everything including chain would be out of line. If that is alright and it still fits together safely and in line, then tubular spacers rather than washers would do the job better for you if you could find them or make them.

On mine, thick washers of the type you get on old fashioned galvanised roof bolts 2mm were just right. There is one in the middle of the old sprocket in the pic. The old OEM sprocket was flat as you can see in this pic. Sorry, camera refuses to focus close these days. That strange ring probably did something but the new one didn't have one so ... sometimes I think I should just leave it all alone, but it is working still and is fine ... good luck with yours.

http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/511/sprocketold.jpg

Will take pic in next day or so as bike is not with me at moment, but if you imagine your OEM sprocket, instead of the lip which features on yours outside the bolt pattern, my sprocket is smooth (without the lip) and actually tappers out by 11mm to sit tight against the circlip. Never noticed it till I pulled it apart, however with the tapper so dramatic it will be almost impossible to mount an aftermarket sprocket combo until i work out how to safely space out the difference. I’m not sure the distance can be safely spaced using shims or washers, it will have to be a custom job to get the circlip sitting correctly and allow the chain to run without any tight spots. Its going to be a challenge.

Might be worth messaging the guys here that have done the job on the SM. Means going back through the threads though.

Will do that i think, thanks Jape