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  1. #1 Changing fork oil on Qlink QingQi 200 
    C-Moto Guru david3921's Avatar
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    I did a lot of searching on how to change the fork oil on my Qlink XF200. I didn't like the way the front dove so much during braking. I tried adding a 2" spacer to increase the preload. While this helped, it wasn't enough. All of the posts I found here and elsewhere said that I had to disassemble the forks from the bike. I didn't want to do this as I just installed new lighting (more on that in another post). Last night I bit the bullet and finally got a motorcycle jack from Harbor Freight. Yep, we have a store a couple miles from here and it's been a godsend for a number of projects. Anyway, since I already was familiar with removing the top fork caps I thought would go whole hog and see what was really in there. The manual found elsewhere on this site for this type of motorcycle doesn't cover USD forks so I was left with my intuition that I could replace the fork oil without removing the forks from the bike.

    I was right.

    It's even possible to keep the disassembly to a minimum to try different weights fairly quick to find the right one.

    ..and yes I took pictures.
    Last edited by david3921; 07-26-2009 at 02:11 PM.
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  2. #2  
    C-Moto Guru david3921's Avatar
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    Ok, here goes.

    Take off the front fork protectors. These are held on with two screws each and slide up and off.

    Take off the brake line routing bracket. Two bolts hold it on

    Jack up the front so that the wheel is about 8" off of the ground. This makes room for boards placed under the wheel later.

    Loosen the top bolts on the tree. This will allow the top caps to be loosened.

    Lossen the top caps. You will notice that they "catch" after turning a bit. This means that they are loose.

    Place boards under the front wheel. Make sure the wheel is straight and that the boards are wide enough to hold a container on each side to catch the oil. A small sheet of plywood on top of a couple of board works well.

    Lower the bike all the way to the bottom of the stoke. The caps will pop up with the cartrage.
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    Last edited by david3921; 07-26-2009 at 02:12 PM.
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  3. #3  
    C-Moto Guru david3921's Avatar
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    More;

    Take off top caps. There is a flat spot under the cap to put a wrench on.

    Pull down on the round pipe and remove the clip that holds the end of the cartrage. You can remove the pipe and glide that fits at the end of the pipe. Don't worry if the glide falls off. It's held there by the pressure of the cartrage.

    Now, an important step. Measure the space between the top of the fork and the bottom of the "nut" on the top of the cartrage. This will tell you later if you've gotten everything back correctly. I had to take the picture at an angle so don't go by the measurement seen. As a reference, mine was 6.25".
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    Last edited by david3921; 03-09-2010 at 08:27 PM.
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  4. #4  
    C-Moto Guru david3921's Avatar
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    Now it time to drain the oil. At the end of each fork is a bolt. This holds the cartrage in the fork. Others have said that it is difficult to get this back in correctly. I found an easy way to do this which I will go into soon.

    Remove the bolt and drain the oil. I measured what I removed, and after adding in what was on the springs and what I spilled, it did look like is came out to the 330ml recommended.

    The cartrage can be removed and the oil pumped out. Because I was trying to get an acurate measurement of the oil, I pumped mine into the fork and let it drain down into the container. It really doesn't matter just so you get it out. You can do both forks at the same time provide you have two catch containers.

    Pull the springs out. This is necessary to be able to see to the bottom of the fork. I didn't notice which way mine came out but the ends are different. Most will say it doesn't matter but I remember reading something about "spring noise". On assembly, I put the more coiled end in first.

    Notice on the end of the cartrage that there are flat spots. This important for reassembly. More on that in the next post.
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    Last edited by david3921; 07-26-2009 at 02:57 PM.
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  5. #5  
    C-Moto Guru david3921's Avatar
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    Reassembly. It's pretty much the reverse but with some important notes.

    At the bottom of forks there are flat spots that line up with the flats on the cartrage. You can barly see them in the picture below. They are on the lower right on my right hand fork. These flats keep the cartrage from turning when tighting the bolt at the bottom of the forks. Mark the location of the cartrage flats on the top of the cartrage where the rod meets the main body. I used a paint pen. You want to be able to see from the top the location of the flats so that you can turn the cartrage so that it drops into the correct position in the fork. With the right lighting you can see the flats at the bottom of the fork and put the cartrage close when reinstalling. You can turn the cartrage by the rod until it catches in the flat.

    Replace the bolt. As a note, the bolt has a copper crush washer. I have a set of washers from Harbor Freight but didn't have the correct size so I flipped them and reused them. You have to work them off with a screw driver a bit at a time as they are a tight fit.

    After tightening the bolt use the measurement taken before to ensure the cartrage is seated correctly. If it's too long, loosen the bolt and rotate the cartrage until you get it right.

    The cartrage rod will tend to slid down until it gets oil back in it. Don't worry about letting it go as it can be retreived with needle nose pliers.

    So here's the steps for reassembly;

    Cartrages in.
    Rotate to fit into flat.
    Bolts in.
    Measure with rod extended.
    Springs in.
    Oil in. Pour in 330ml into each slowly.
    Pump cartrage rods to get oil in and air out.
    Sleeve in (if fell off of pipe), pipe on.
    Push down pipe while holding cartrage rod up, put on clip.
    End caps on. Rubber bushing first, then cap.
    Jack up bike, caps go down.
    Tighten caps. careful that the caps thread correctly.
    Tighten tree bolts.
    Replace brake hose bracket and fork protectors.

    I think that's it. Let me know if I missed anything.

    As a side note. As stated in the first post, I think it's possible to try different weights by doing the following;

    Take out the bottom bolt and drain the oil.
    Replace the bolt.
    Measure what comes out of each fork.
    Pop the top caps as decribed earlier and pour in the new weight based on what came out of each fork.

    This seems like a quick and dirty way to check for the correct oil weight. Once determined, the whole procedure described above can be done if desired.
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    Last edited by david3921; 07-26-2009 at 02:59 PM.
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  6. #6  
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    Astonishing... Never thought it could be done like that, thanks for the detailed write up and photos.
    Jincheng Monkey JC50Q-7
    Skyteam Dax replica ST110-6
    Zongshen ZS125-43
    Qingqi QM200GY-BA Super Motard
    Qingqi QM110GY
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  7. #7  
    Administrator-tron CrazyCarl's Avatar
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    David,

    Great stuff! Pictures and all!

    On a side note... is that an old Honda Sabre VF700S in your garage next to the 200?

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  8. #8  
    C-Moto Guru david3921's Avatar
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    Thanks guys.

    I was wondering if you would notice the other bike Carl. It's a 1984 Magna
    V65. It does have Sabre exhausts on it as I haven't gotten into getting the Kerkers I bought installed. I decided to black it out and I'm almost done with it. I'll post some pictures in the off-post area when I'm done if you would like to see it.
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  9. #9  
    Life Is Good! ChinaV's Avatar
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    David,

    Great work and thanks for sharing all the details with us. What weight fork oil did you use?

    Cheers!
    ChinaV
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  10. #10  
    Administrator-tron CrazyCarl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by david3921 View Post
    I was wondering if you would notice the other bike Carl. It's a 1984 Magna
    V65. It does have Sabre exhausts on it as I haven't gotten into getting the Kerkers I bought installed. I decided to black it out and I'm almost done with it. I'll post some pictures in the off-post area when I'm done if you would like to see it.
    Well sure I'd like to see it! Hey, some of the Sabmag (SabreMagna - Gen 1) list is having a get together in your neck of the woods at the Willville Bike Camp come August 15 I believe. If you're not already on the Sabmag list, these guys are good to know and, of course, generally nuts.

    www.sabmag.org is a good starting place if your interested. Also, yearly events around the country if you've got the travlin' bug.

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