Mikilon m96 125SB 2008

[DJCW]

Thanks again. Guess my weekends all planned now!. Cant wait to try a bigger sprocket as driving on A roads in UK is tough at 40MPH.

Appreciate your help. Would have been stuck without it.

[Damien2010]

Thanks again. Guess my weekends all planned now!. Cant wait to try a bigger sprocket as driving on A roads in UK is tough at 40MPH.

Appreciate your help. Would have been stuck without it.

Hey bud, how did you get on this weekend,

you wouldn't happen to know what brake pads are needed for this bike I gotta get new ones?

[DJCW]

Thanks for the help. I got a washer in place and mount is now much tighter. Real hassle getting the rivets out of the exhaust can tho. They are steel and loose so tend to spin when drilling out. I went through 2 hss drill bits on the first 8 rivets. I got some tungsten bits now so more happy drilling this weeekend. What rivets did you use to put it back together? the holes look larger than the 5mm I thought they were.
I've not done brakes yet so can't help you there. sorry.
on the sprocket, did you npotice a part number or any other markings on it? My local bike shop guys checked their JTsprockets catalogue and couldn't find a match They're baffled.

[Damien2010]

I just replaced then with stainless steel rivets the same size that came out, for brakes I simply took em out and went to my bike shop and they matched them up, as for the sprockets when I took it into the shop the took the measurements of the middle where the spline goes and matched it as close as possible to one out of their books, I can't remember if the was any names of the sprocket on there

[DJCW]

Tungsten drill bits sorted those pesky rivets. Got the can open and rebuilt nice and tight now. No more bad vibes.
Still trying to match up a sprocket but got to get one now as bike running ok now with tighter mopunts and exhaust can.

Bad news tho, left mirror mount broke off the clutch lever mount. I hardly touched the thing so looks like the cast allow just gave up. Yet another part to try and match up. I guess a seperate bracket with the right size hole for the bolt will do.

Got to re-allign the back wheel as well I can hear the brake pads catching the disc. This bike is high maintenance, are all chiona bikes like this?

[Damien2010]

Tungsten drill bits sorted those pesky rivets. Got the can open and rebuilt nice and tight now. No more bad vibes.
Still trying to match up a sprocket but got to get one now as bike running ok now with tighter mopunts and exhaust can.

Bad news tho, left mirror mount broke off the clutch lever mount. I hardly touched the thing so looks like the cast allow just gave up. Yet another part to try and match up. I guess a seperate bracket with the right size hole for the bolt will do.

Got to re-allign the back wheel as well I can hear the brake pads catching the disc. This bike is high maintenance, are all chiona bikes like this?

The mirror is standard size and clutch leaver will do I had the same prob but the leaver broke off

[davidqc]

Bought this bike in a crate, no warranty and cheap.

The mantra with these bargain bikes is: "loctite, loctite, loctite, spring washers, spring washers, spring washers."

And the motto is: 'Keep your nuts tight". But not soooo tight that you shear them off!

But our Chinese buddies are learning. Not a single loose nut on my Huoniao HN125-8 eBay bike-in-a-box. All the major nuts and bolts had been fitted with shakeproof washers and a red coloured Chinese version of loctite. I still do a weekly allround check for looseness, mind.

Always (and I mean ALWAYS) treat everywhere (especailly all connectors, switches and the rats nest in the headlamp) with ACF-50 from the time the bike has been asssembled out of the box. You only neeed the thinest of film and so a 1 litre bottle should last fora few years. WD-40 is fine for water displacement, but don't let it get that far. Prevention better than cure, right!

Oh, and lest forgotten, pack the dreaded sidestand switch with ACF-50 grease. Job done.

[tonypascoe]

I have one of these I bikes I also bought mine a create, its and 09, and I had the same problem as you with the rear engine mounts and I then found that the bottom engine mount spacing is no good, there is a gap between the mount and engine so even if it is locked up the engine can still move, so I undid the mount and put enough washers to fill the gap and locked it up solving the problem, I also had a rattle in my exhaust, it is the Spark arrester it restricts the air flow coming out the exhaust so it is a restricted, I drilled out the rivets and took the spark arrester out, though be sure to make sure the bolt that holds the exhaust is always tight, I didn’t and lost my exhaust, I now have another one on that is much louder and barks more :D, as for gear ratios and top end, I ordered a bigger sprocket which should give me less accelerate and more top end but I found that it didn’t accelerate any slower, and I have managed to get 70MPH out of it, which I think isn't bad as standard it should only do 55MPH (90KMH), also my Speedo has died all I get now it the blue light lighting it up, I took it apart and found that there is a capacitor that is too big for the casing and what they did was allow it to stick out the circuit board far enough to bend it over which then broke off, I also have the same problem with bulbs, i have changed the head light assemble as the original vibrates well, the bulbs live longer but over time the solder melts causing connection loss the bulb receives too much power, which is why they blow I am going to fit a voltage regulator which should stop them from blowing, as for indicators I have changed them all round as I didn't like what was on there. I have also had a problem off some of the blocks in the wiring starting to corrode but with the new headlight assembly less water can get to the wires as it all pulls closer to the stem, but I just spray WD40 to get them clean. Also a good idea would be to keep and eye on the stud and nut that hold the carb on, or change them to bolts as I found that they can loose, I was out when one of the studs feel out at the time I didn’t realise what it was, so I ended up pushing the bike home for at least a mile on a hot day, you don’t want that :D. Also my throtle cable broke it corroded at the top end fortuantly I was able to get me and the bike picked up. I have found that with this bike that after you get through the problems at the start they are very good bikes, I ride mine 50 miles to college and back everyday and it is running well.

my son has exactly same bike and same problem with throtle cable with corrosion-did you manage to source new cable `cant seem to find anyone dealing in spares in uk

[DJCW]

And now the latest, broke down on the way to work. Bike would not run without choke even when warm through. Just managed to scrape home. Turns out the petrol cap washer is torn and seems perished. Bits n the fuel filter. Stripped and cleaned out tank, tap and carb. Found lots of bits in the tank and a little dust in the float bowl. Cleared the pilot jet through.

What a nightmare to work on. Getting the carb out is a puzzle as so little space between engine and frame. finally all b ack now and running ok.

Still looking for a 14 tooth front sprocket.

[da beard]

I have one of these I bikes I also bought mine a create, its and 09, and I had the same problem as you with the rear engine mounts and I then found that the bottom engine mount spacing is no good, there is a gap between the mount and engine so even if it is locked up the engine can still move, so I undid the mount and put enough washers to fill the gap and locked it up solving the problem, I also had a rattle in my exhaust, it is the Spark arrester it restricts the air flow coming out the exhaust so it is a restricted, I drilled out the rivets and took the spark arrester out, though be sure to make sure the bolt that holds the exhaust is always tight, I didn’t and lost my exhaust, I now have another one on that is much louder and barks more :D, as for gear ratios and top end, I ordered a bigger sprocket which should give me less accelerate and more top end but I found that it didn’t accelerate any slower, and I have managed to get 70MPH out of it, which I think isn't bad as standard it should only do 55MPH (90KMH), also my Speedo has died all I get now it the blue light lighting it up, I took it apart and found that there is a capacitor that is too big for the casing and what they did was allow it to stick out the circuit board far enough to bend it over which then broke off, I also have the same problem with bulbs, i have changed the head light assemble as the original vibrates well, the bulbs live longer but over time the solder melts causing connection loss the bulb receives too much power, which is why they blow I am going to fit a voltage regulator which should stop them from blowing, as for indicators I have changed them all round as I didn't like what was on there. I have also had a problem off some of the blocks in the wiring starting to corrode but with the new headlight assembly less water can get to the wires as it all pulls closer to the stem, but I just spray WD40 to get them clean. Also a good idea would be to keep and eye on the stud and nut that hold the carb on, or change them to bolts as I found that they can loose, I was out when one of the studs feel out at the time I didn’t realise what it was, so I ended up pushing the bike home for at least a mile on a hot day, you don’t want that :D. Also my throtle cable broke it corroded at the top end fortuantly I was able to get me and the bike picked up. I have found that with this bike that after you get through the problems at the start they are very good bikes, I ride mine 50 miles to college and back everyday and it is running well.

I am struggling like you would not beleive to source a rear sprocket for this bike ( Mikilon M96 125-B ) I can find a front sprocket – strangely enough it the exact same one that is on the Yamasaki 125 , I have an 12 tooth front at the mo ( going to 15 ) but want to drop the rear sprocket down to a 42 tooth – the only thing I can think of at the moment is to get a blank made up and that could be pretty expensive so if you could give me the name of the place that you got your sprocket from or the make and model of the sprocket that is identical to the Mikilon one I would be eternally gratefull .


Thanks