GingerAdam's TransAsia Adventure!!!

**CrazyCarl** · 10-27-2009, 03:37 PM

30-40kph is about right up hill with full gear. You'll get less on the passes, especially after Golmud.

How are things now? Any updates? Pics?

CC

**GingerAdam** · 11-14-2009, 07:02 AM

Hey there, sorry long time no speak, I unwitingly fell into the internet black hole in Xingjang!! Also FYI you can't make internetional calls from there... The ride was col though. I wouildn't say that there is a lot to see, but the bike went well, and no problems.

I've made it to Pakistan but I'm feeling like I've made a BIG mistake here. Say what you like about my decision making process but I met a guy in Kashgar who had been through Afghanistan and he said it was generally really cool and I should be able to get the bike through. He seemed well informed and his pictures were awesome. With no internet I decided to take the risk. Oops. Arrived in Pakistan to find the kyber border has been closed to tourists for 2 YEARS because of the fighting so, that leaves Iran. That was my plan 'B' but as we all know it's very difficult to get a bike into there; without a carnet (I thought when I was considering it that it was possible in Iran but difficult into Pakistan) probably especially if you're British.

How I got into Pakistan... I rode up to the Chinese customs post and parked my bike outside. Then I went in and they said 'you the guy with the motorbike' I said yes, they send me to customs who OKed it, but I had to put it onto the bus at a 400RMB to the top of the pass (me and the bike; they started at 825RMB and weren't moving until after about 1 hour of haggling the checkpoint head officer told them that was too expensive and they backed down). Then I could ride from the last checkpoint into Pakistan and it was really cool. I got the bike out becuase it was NEW, a YAMAHA and REGISTERED IN MY NAME. An american guy aparently failed to get his bike out - I found out in Pakistan that he failed at the Chinese side of the border becuase it was second hand. Also aparrently they won't let certain brands of bikes go into Pakistan, but Yamaha is OK. The bus (with some friends on that's why I decided to go) got stuck for hours in roadworks and traffic but as soon as the road was cleared I could go. I arrived on the Pakistan side, said 'hello' at the checkpoint, they let me through. It was after dark, I was cold and hungry and a little sick from the altitude so I got some food and went to bed. The next day I went off to the immigration. They said 'no worries, you get a visa. I filled in the forms for VOA (Brit: 90USD). They said 'how did you come, on the bus? I said 'over the pass, yes technically true) and they said OK, welcome to Pakistan. They put 'bus' on my method of arrival.

The ride was amazing all the way to Islamabad. Such a crazy road, one to drive carefully, but what veiws!! I'll put photos up of the trip when I get better internet. But now I'm here, I have to decide what to do. Do I pay for a carnet for a 1000USD bike (with the RAC probably more than the bike is worth)? Probably not. Can I go back to China and try to exit again to Kyrgystan? Maybe, but I can see the Chinese authorities having problems with me bringing the bike back in with 1 day left on the registration. Also it will take two weeks to sort everything and by now the passes will be difficult and I presume going north as well. Do I go to Afghanistan?!! A guy did it on a car about a month back aparrently, somehow got up the road to the border and got through. But I have also heard about people geting deported so I'm not sure I should try that. Or do I go to Iran and see if I can get the bike in? I have to go through a world of visa hell, somehow exit the bike from Pakistan (I should have a carnet) and then hope for a sympathetic Iranian border official!! That sounds like the most likely option. But I am really pissed off with myself at my poor planning (even if the internet in Xingjang was down.) I really should have taken the 3 day hit and gone and got a kyrdistan visa in Urumqi. Basically comes from thinking that I was brave enough, however actually I have now chickened out and am leaving myself with a big logistical headache!!! This is all IF/When I can get a visa. Probably take 15 days at least so I have to work out something to do in the meantime. As I was planning to visit Russia (I've had enough of deserts!!) it's now a big mess. Oops.

By the way I can reccomend Abdul Wahab Travel Center in Kashgar for very good advice on what roads are open to foreigners; he knows which roads you can take (one pass to Kyrdistan was closed but the other one was open). His mobile is 013 (code) 899 132103. and email abdultour@yahoo.com

**Kurisu** · 11-14-2009, 02:25 PM

Holy shit! Pakistan?! You have some serious balls friend. I never got anywhere near that level of danger on my ride. Let me be the first to say, if you ducked out on Afghanistan, I wouldn't think any less of you. That IS a warzone. Please be careful man, be really careful. Risk is cool - but only if you live to tell about it. Carry a Qorran with you, and make it look really worn and used. That might help. haha.

Best of luck! PICTURES PLEASE!

Chris

**CrazyCarl** · 11-14-2009, 02:52 PM

That's some real ballzy ride you're on there! You can try your luck getting back in to China but have a plan B and don't feel dissapoibted by anything thy happens. When your riding balls to the wall this is just what it is.

Another option is to see if you can get into India which is full of color and some fantastic scenery, people, mountains and food. There is some very high altitude desert between pak chin and ind worth exploring and spending some time with locals.

Regardless of of what you decide, keep us posted and watch your ass!

Much riding love,
CC

**GingerAdam** · 11-21-2009, 02:36 PM

Cheers guys... The Kakoram pass shut a couple of days after I got over it due to snow. But there's good news, the Iran visa situation seems to have got a bit better, I have heard about people getting them in about 10 days or so. Hopefully they are not still declining people as was happening earlier in the year. And you can get a bike through now apparently, there was a notice at the embassy in Islamabad. It is a cash deposit, either I get it back or it goes to their nuclear program!! Better than loosing the bike though. Hopefully also turning up is half the battle... So I'm currently in Balochistan, I met someone to bike to Quetta with, but there I will be waiting for the answer, so I'll try and upload some photos there.

Round here things have got a bit heavy with armed guards etc. Today we had an armed police car flashing it's lights at everything - a great way to get past trucks!!

**bigdamo** · 11-22-2009, 10:19 PM

Originally Posted by GingerAdam

Cheers guys... The Kakoram pass shut a couple of days after I got over it due to snow. But there's good news, the Iran visa situation seems to have got a bit better, I have heard about people getting them in about 10 days or so. Hopefully they are not still declining people as was happening earlier in the year. And you can get a bike through now apparently, there was a notice at the embassy in Islamabad. It is a cash deposit, either I get it back or it goes to their nuclear program!! Better than loosing the bike though. Hopefully also turning up is half the battle... So I'm currently in Balochistan, I met someone to bike to Quetta with, but there I will be waiting for the answer, so I'll try and upload some photos there.

Round here things have got a bit heavy with armed guards etc. Today we had an armed police car flashing it's lights at everything - a great way to get past trucks!!

Yeah ballsy ride alot of bad s*** going down in Pakistan and Afghanistan at the moment.I believe the Kakoram pass is now closed until May next year.Especially since the snows came early this year.

GingerAdams you should have looked me up while you where in Xinjiang I am just up the road from Urumqi(difficult with the internet being down though) I would have showed you some amazing places and put you in touch with the local motorcycle club.Xinjiang certainly is not all desert.

**bigdamo** · 11-22-2009, 10:35 PM

Originally Posted by chinabiker

You'll need a carnet for Pakistan, I am sure.

If you own a China plated bike as a foreigner, you can get a carnet - not easy but possible.

Up in Shihezi,Xinjiang there is a strong relationship with Pakistan.With alot of Pakistain students studying at the uni in Shihezi.

I wonder if they can help me get into Pakistan.I wonder if my Shihezi number plates will help me get into Pakistan and back.Might have to take a Pakistan student with me?

I better go and make some friends with the Pakistan students.

**GingerAdam** · 11-30-2009, 05:47 PM

Hey guys, I am in Iran... And I still have the bike!! I'm sorry about the lack of pics etc, I promise I'll do it when I get some time I am trying to make as much forward progress as I can just now. From the Indus rive to Bam in Iran we had a police escort,

which slowed us down a lot. They really didn't want us going outside the hotel in Quetta Pakistan, although the town seemed fine and I heard travellers not on bikes could (the police didn't notice them as quickly). For the crossing I went to the border with another bike I met - he had a carnet, I didn't. The Pakistani customs informed me firmly that I couldn't transit Pakistan without a carnet. I told them I just had and I wanted to leave Pakistan - they looked a bit puzzled and asked where I had entered (Sost) but soon cheered up and said OK, then we looked at the bike and talked about Pakistani Hondas for a bit. The next day we went to imigration and checked out no problem. The Iranian side is a big complex and quite profesional - immigration weren't bothered about the carnet but before we could get through the checkpoint at the end of the compound we had to clear customs - fine for my friend but it was the Haj (Mecca pilgramage) holidays so the customs guy was on holiday who could do the paperwork for the next two days, I would have to stay in a hotel on site and wait. I said goodbye to my friend and he rode off for the escort. Then a guy from immigration found me and after some chat (I don't think they understood the situation) they said to go for the escort. So I met up with the escort and my friend (who had had to wait for 1.5 hours) and off we went. We only got 100km into Iran that day (common) and then the next day we had escort to Bam... Kind of a relief to be across the border.

I'm still looking at getting the ferry from Turkey to Russia, but it all depends on the weather (there's been snow in Terhan!) At least I can check things now!! BTW the drive from Pak to Iran so far has been really cool, better scenery than I was expecting and interesting roads. The bike is doing 80-90km/h up hills so that's OK...

Bigdamo, yeah, that would have been a really good call! A shame, so often you find out information after it would have been useful. The north of Xinjang looks really cool and I met someone who was working near the Kazak border who'd had a great time. Next time, next time...

By the way there's lots of Chinese trucks that go down to Sost at least. Then the border at Sost is very friendly and relaxed, but to be legal in Pakistan you need a carnet I think. Foreigners cannot ride the road from Tashkurgan to the border so you'd need to put your bike on a bus, or maybe a pickup if it's a big bike. Possibly if you're not Chinese a chinese person could drive it for you for that bit? You probably need an army escort though.

Until next time...

**CrazyCarl** · 01-06-2010, 10:01 PM

You still in the game there chief?

CC

**GingerAdam** · 01-07-2010, 07:17 PM

Hi Carl,

As luck would have it, yesterday I made it back to the UK. In one piece, if a little crazy. An amazing trip, some good, some bad... But what an experience. A warts and all story will appear soon...

Happy New Year!!

Adam