gearing for kinlon rt 200

[david3921]

In general, the lower the ratio the higher the top end, a higher ratio is for torque. The best way to understand it is to apply it to a bicycle. If you change the sprocket in front to the smallest and the rear to the largest (like going up a hill) you have good torque but poor top end. Large in the front and small in the rear (going down a hill) good top end but poor torque (legs are not strong enough if a hill appears). On a motorcycle the trick is to find the sweet spot that balances the two with regard to engine power. Most of our bikes are geared for duel sport riding, 14T to 15T in the front and 48T or higher in the rear. There is gearing in the transmission that effects it all also. Again, our bikes tend to have high ratios for the first gear that causes us to shift quickly (with stock gearing) on the street but works well off road. Forchetto started this post that helps with this also.

http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/sh...ight=sprockets

[jape]

The importers finally got back to me after two emails and a couple of weeks, just to say they only have the standard sprocket and to suggest I get a blank one machined. That sort of support is not going to sell me any more of these bikes especially as they ignored my (true) comments about nuts and bolts falling off.

Reading through the answers and other threads it seems I need to go to a 42/3 rear if I can ever identify how to get one (ie is it a suzuki style or what) and from where in Aus. I shall just have to unbolt it and drive a hundred km to the city and look around the shops.

The chain is a 520, will it need to be shortened or will it take up in the normal adjustment?

[stromnes]

hi jape,

i got in touch with fxpowersports in Grantham street Brunswick ph:03 9388 9000 and they said that they stock a 16th front sprocket. not sure on the price yet but am off to get one in the next couple of weeks. will let you know the outcome shortly

[jape]

Well done mate, take some pics and post here eh? I shall probably do the same soon then if it isn't too hard or expensive, I'm not very comfortable or skilled with metal bits and pieces so will let you be the pioneer! I actually got my bike from them but had a lot of hassles so I didn't want to go through them if I could avoid it but hey, silly to spite myself if I can do it easier buying from them. You are looking for a better cruising speed too I guess? The bike certainly accelerates fast enough for me as it is! Only done a couple of short local trips recently, been a bit crook, but looking forward to cooler weather and if I get more confident t won't break down, a trip down to Melb. Will let you know when.

[XXX]

The likeliest immediate problem for me is going to be the gearing. I live in the bush and after a few km of dirt I am on open roads and freeways for 30 to 100 km. Safety says I need to be doing 100 km and keeping up with the flow.

Now this bike was sold to me as a 100 km.p.h bike and obviously isn't, 85 to 90 more like it but I have had other small engine bikes (250cc) that could do 100 km plus all day. I know 25% smaller makes a difference there especially as I am 15 stone plus gear but I am hoping to improve the top end a little. It has no problem pulling me and a girlfiend away so it has plenty power enough for when I am riding solo (99% of the time).

I have read that road tyres (it has nobblies of course) will make it even slower, if easier to ride. So ... any ideas on gearing the rear sprocket as far as possible. Makes, sizes etc.? And possible carbie changes. It has a jap 'walbro' as fitted.

Re gearing for Rt 200 Kinlon- I have owned one for 18 mths, and fitted a 35T rear sprocket 18,000klm ago. I took the standard rear sprocket to my local Honda dealer ( Sydney, Australia )and they were able to order in a sprocket to suit.It was'nt a stock Honda item, so here are the markings off the sprocket, if it helps you.
The packet containing the sprocket is marked 'Manufactured by Jomthai Asahi Co.,Ltd' and 'Japanese steel, made in Thailand'.The packet and the sprocket both bear an emblem of a rising sun with 'jt' underneath.
The sticker on the packet has 41200-KRO-600 and 32-KRO-35/07 stamped on it. The sprocket itself has JTR279-35 and, seperately, C45 stamped on it.
Cost was $45.With a 35T on the rear wheel, the engine is more relaxed.Top speed rises to 115kph, and the bike will sit on 100kph for short periods, but is still happiest between 80-90kph.I have run my Rt200 at 100kph for up to 15 minutes, but the engine definitely does'nt like it, so I keep the speed to about 95kph max, except on downhill runs.
Hope this info helps

[jape]

Hi tripleX, thanks for that, this is the sort of information that makes life so much easier, and the practical experience on top of that is good to hear. I wonder what a 16 front, 35 back would do? I may be the first to do that, I want to get it to a 1000km before I trust it enough to spend more though. Especially good to see you have done a regular 1000+ km a month. Would you tell us what the service record has been, what we should look out for please?

I find that when i am 'cruising' the local tarmac, mine sits unmodified at a natural 85 to 90 without any strain on the flat, so getting another 10kph would really help on the freeway as the 'big city' is 60 to 100 km away from me depending whether I turn left or right when I leave the bush!

[XXX]

Hi Jape,
The Kinlon RT200 and motard models are geared differently, and my understanding after speaking to different dealers who sell these bikes, is that the sprockets from the Rt will not fit the motard, and vice versa.The standard gearing on my Rt is 13T front and 45T rear. There is very little room to spare around the front sprocket, so it appears that owners are restricted to the original 13T item; there is no way that a 15T sprocket off a motard is going to fit, even if the splines were identical.
The combination of 13T front and 35T rear is ideal gearing for the Rt.This combination gives a more relaxed 80-90kph cruising speed, along with increased fuel economy.I believe that this is the ideal cruising speed for these bikes.As I mentioned earlier, I have run my Rt at 100kph for 15 minutes ( two-up on M5 into Sydney ), but if you plan on doing regular trips on the freeway, I would consider buying a 250cc bike.This is'nt to say that the Kinlon could'nt handle regular 100kph cruising speeds - it may do so - but I really do'nt think they are built with that in mind, and in the interests of engine longevity, I only hit 100kph+ on the downhills ( though I do 100kph+ daily, for a minute or two).
With regard to service intervals: change the oil every 1,000-1,500klm, checking and cleaning the oil 'filter' thimble at the same intervals.Adjust valve clearances every 5,000klm, as top end tends to get noisy if left much longer than that.My bike has just passed the 26,000klm mark, and has been trouble-free.There have been no mechanical problems, and on the rural roads in my area, it has proven to be one of the most comfortable bikes I have ever ridden.
One last point re gearing: if you must use your bike for regular freeway trips, the firm which supplies the 35T sprocket, also has a 33T sprocket to suit the Rt.Buying and fitting a 33T would be a gamble, as it would be at the extreme limit of gearing that the engine could handle, given it's modest power output. I would stick with the 35T unless you have no option but to use the Kinlon for regular freeway trips.I hope this info is helpful for you, and I would be happy to answer any other queries you may have re the Kinlon.

[jape]

That is excellent information, thanks again, great to have your input. Good to see you have had such reliability, my fears are lessened then, despite a handful of bolts falling off in first 100 km, three batteries etc! Mine is indeed the RT so I shall do as you suggested and get the 35T. Would you give me the dealer's email address please and I shall enquire about getting them to send me one. I am a bit disabled with a few crushed vertebrae which is why the bike has only done 450km in a year. This will rise as I get going more. Thus the freeway trips will be only very occasional and the off-road even less. I do intend to ride this thing more, and as I get used to it my confidence is growing - in my position and living in the countryside I can't just call a taxi or walk home if it breaks down somewhere.
I find it a wee bit squirmy on the back end on tarmac, sort of slides a little if it hits a bump or even finds the camber and especially if I shift my weight a little from cramp or whatever. I am getting used to that, probably happens because of the 'off-road' setup and because I learned years ago on road bikes. Do you have any thoughts on changing/adjusting springs?

[XXX]

Hi Jape,
The bolts falling off sounds like poor pre-delivery checks by the dealer.Upon buying my bike , I spent half an hour checking every nut and bolt on the machine, and nothing has ever come loose or fallen off, even after several 100klm off-road trips on rough fire trails.
Three batteries in 450klm? Did they die from lack of use, or is there a problem in the wiring and charging system?
With regard to suspension adjustments, the rear shock spring tension can be adjusted.I found that the best way to do this is to compress the spring a little by turning the adjusting ring and locking ring on the shock, then go for a ride over a predetermined course.Compress spring further, then ride over the same course.Eventually you will arrive at the best setting for your build, and style of riding.There is not much you can do to improve the front forks.You could try to drain the fork oil and replace with a higher viscosity fork oil.This would lessen the amount of dive when the front brake is applied.Apart from that you would need to see a suspension specialist and change the fork springs, or search for compatible forks off a different brand of bike - but both these options could prove time-consuming and costly.
Regarding poor handling and 'squirmy' back tyre, have you checked the tyre pressures regularly? I weigh in at 65kg and run 29psi in the front tyre, 33psi in the back tyre.These pressures need to be checked at least every 2 weeks, as a drop in pressure in the rear tyre of just 5 or 6psi, will cause similar handling characteristics to those you've described.("squirming").
What is the wheel alignment like? If nuts and bolts were loose after 100klms, the alignment may have been askew as well.Apart from using a stringline, you could take measurements on either side of the adjusters, and ensure the back wheel is tracking straight and the chain is not too tight.Also check spoke tension, as loose spokes will also cause the back end of the bike to move around, and feel very insecure.
Re the 35T rear sprocket, the dealer's email is: brianc@sydneycitymotorcycles.com.au I spoke to him today, and he should be able to supply the sprocket for you.Hope you're able to get everything sorted, as these really are a smooth running and enjoyable bike once they are set up properly.

[jape]

Well you are right on every point! It came in a crate which was broken badly and the metal transport frame was bent; naturally I hadn't expected that - I thought it would be assembled and checked. A reason why I do not trust that dealer.

The first battery just had no charge and wouldn't take one, the second (after two months of argument about warranty) finally arrived but only took 10 volts, the third I bought myself for $90 and is fine so i think the wiring is OK.

Until worked out the choke is back to front and the prop stand has a kill switch, I had real starting problems too but not so bad now. I cannot kick it easily because of my back problems, rely on electric start. The very loose throttle grip worries me and I cannot see how to tighten it easily

The frame itself is still a touch out of line and the back wheel was assembled an inch forward on one side to compensate for that. The cost alone of returning it to the dealers for frame correction would have been over $300 by courier and the warranty didn't cover things I should have noticed immediately they said ... so an acquaintance who lives up the road has had bikes all his life and fixes cars so he bent it back to the best position he could without stressing welds and so on too much. he reckoned all the crate damage and alignment problems were exactly where a fork lift would have done it thus cannot say whether it was at factory or dealers, I am inclined to think dealers because of the nonexistent help and support I get from them! They just dumped it on me cheap because I had pre-paid and ordered another bike they said didn' t arrive.

The swinging arm on one side arrived dented but looks as if it is OK to ride. The plastics were badly scratched but that isn't a real concern just annoying as is the constantly coming loose saddle. A fair bit of light rust already on wheels, brake parts, exhaust requiring fish-oil or something,. All will need dealing with when I bring it in for a checkover.

I have replaced and loctited some six or seven missing and more loose bolts but after snapping a couple more (I have no torque wrench yet) I decided just to check after every ride. Boring but practical and safe unless a critical one fails while I am aboard.

The wheels are tight at present.

I took it into the local motorbike dealers who have competition teams and so on so should be pretty efficient and experienced, asking them to give it a through check-over and tune-up but they just laughed and refused. And that after twenty years of getting chainsaws, gensets, mowers, brush cutters and pumps from them! They just flat out refuse to touch chinese bikes.

I have done a fair bit of mechanical 'fixing' over the years and in my youth used to strip and clean everything on my bikes but was never a natural and as I do not bend or move easily these days it is a pain to have to do it.

So you can see why I am a bit reticent about just heading off on it - despite everything I have always had the feeling it would turn out to be a good machine once sorted. I'm not one to just rely on such intuitive feelings though when travelling through traffic on a motorbike! Sentiment doesn't keep the wheels on.

Thanks for the email connection XXX, I shall use it next oension day! I have decided to bring her inside to the front room and take her to bits in a couple of weeks, might as well do the sprocket then eh?

Thanks for all the help everyone who has posted.

Hi Jape,
The bolts falling off sounds like poor pre-delivery checks by the dealer.

Three batteries in 450klm? Did they die from lack of use, or is there a problem in the wiring and charging system?

have you checked the tyre pressures regularly?

What is the wheel alignment like? If nuts and bolts were loose after 100klms, the alignment may have been askew as well.

Re the 35T rear sprocket, the dealer's email is: brianc@sydneycitymotorcycles.com.au I spoke to him today, and he should be able to supply the sprocket for you.Hope you're able to get everything sorted, as these really are a smooth running and enjoyable bike once they are set up properly.