Qlink OIL dumping!

[osucantwell]

I have been a proud owner of my Qlink Xf200 for just over 7 months, I purchased it with 400 miles on the clock, and the original oil still in it from the first owner. The bike is a 2008, I have put just under 3600 miles on it since Late September 2009.

Here it is in original trim:


After doing oil changes every 500 miles about (some after 200 miles due to some dirt riding) and valve checks twice since I got it (First was waaayyyy off, second was still good after I fixed it the first time) it was running great.

I have done some simple mods:
Opened up the Exhaust by removing the Catalytic converter with a long drill bit(Free)
16tooth front sprocket from SPROCKET SPECIALIST(15$)
125 main Jet, 35 Pilot (10$)
Raised Needle (Free)
Protaper bar adapters(30$)
Sunline Wide Bars(25$)
17inch set of Shinko 244's for dirt/dual sport(70$)
Stock tires for Street duty(Free)

Bike runs awesome until today...

Riding a 1 mile journey to class today and 100 yards from class I have a 5mph right hand turn. Slow down, Downshift, Lean in, ALMOST LOWSIDE!!!! I look back and there is a 200 foot long trail of oil on the ground (and subsequently my back tire!!)

I parked the bike, went to class, came out and started inspecting. there is oil all over the motor from the valve adjustment caps down. Here is a Picture I took an hour later with the tank off:


So I start inspecting starting with the easiest parts:
Too much oil? NOPE
Oil overflow? NOPE, that wouldn't get up this high on the motor
Valve caps tight? YES, no oil is coming out of them, its all below them
Valve cover assembly tight? YES

So I turn the bike on and BAM, RIGHT IN MY FACE. In the picture above there is a SILVER ACORN nut, not even finger tight, with clean oil PUMPING out. I check all the bolts/nuts above the cylinder, replace the oil filter, refill the bike with oil (which took almost 1.3quarts to fill up to the middle of the sight glass with the bike level, usually takes 1 quart).

I restart the bike, let it warm up, while constantly checking for leaks. NO leaks, no issues, steady idle. I get ready to go ride to my later class. It rides fine to class and the 5 mile detour I took I had ZERO issues.

Come out of class, Start it up, ride a quarter mile and smell lots of burning oil at a stop sign. Look down and there is a puddle of fresh oil under the bike.

WHAT THE HELL!!!

I get my truck, load up, and parked it in the garage. Same issue as this morning, oil PUMPING out of the acorn nut.

What could my issue be?
Symptoms currently:
burning oil--NO
Airbox is clean
Oil filter is new after the first time today

Is my problem a blown seal somewhere?

Here are some more pictures of the aftermath:

THE TURN

THE SLIDE

THE SAVE (if you look closely enough you can see the knobs sliding on the pavement)


THATS SOOO MUCH OIL ON THE GROUND!!!!

[ChinaV]

If you can get a new acorn nut and crush washer, clean it all up good and torque it down when the engine is cold. I'm wondering if the cylinder head stud (long threaded rod that holds the head on) might be damaged.

Cheers!
ChinaV

[osucantwell]

If you can get a new acorn nut and crush washer, clean it all up good and torque it down when the engine is cold. I'm wondering if the cylinder head stud (long threaded rod that holds the head on) might be damaged.

Cheers!
ChinaV

Do you think its just a crush washer?
The Acorn nut was about to fall off the stud when I first found it. I didn't think about it having a crush washer too. I just torqued it back down. I guess it could have just come loose, the threads looked fine, should I pull the head off and check around or just see if a new crush washer does the trick?

[ChinaV]

Do you think its just a crush washer?
The Acorn nut was about to fall off the stud when I first found it. I didn't think about it having a crush washer too. I just torqued it back down. I guess it could have just come loose, the threads looked fine, should I pull the head off and check around or just see if a new crush washer does the trick?

Maybe get four crush washers and re-torque the head in a cross pattern, not circular. It may be a simple matter of poor tightening at the factory, the crush washers are really a single use item, and pretty cheap to replace.

Cheers!
ChinaV

[osucantwell]

So I tore into the motor today. All was going well, got the head off, zip tied the timing chain to the overhead cam shaft sprocket so I don't loose my timing. Took out the chain tensioner, removed all the head bolts to get into the top to remove the 2 hidden head bolts. 3 of the 4 were torqued correctly. The one Acorn nut that isn't is the one that leaks like old faithful when running.
Here are some pictures:












After lifting the head about 2 inches and inspecting the gaskets between the cylinder walls and head I found no reason for oil to be coming out of that bolt hole. the oil flows up the chain side, not the side with the bolt. the Acorn nut that was loose is on a about 12 inch long bolt down to the crank case, upon re-assembly, I made sure to torque everything down, except the one that was loose will turn, but never get tight. Its not free-spinning, it will take about 5-ft/lbs but never get tight. It seems to be spinning the bolt down at the block. HOW COULD THIS BE? should I pull the ENTIRE top end?

This seems like its going to be a full motor out thing. I looked at doing that today but realized I could get the head off without too much pain. I really don't want to have to split the crankcase, thats just asking for trouble later.

[ChinaV]

The Acorn nut that was loose is on a about 12 inch long bolt down to the crank case, upon re-assembly, I made sure to torque everything down, except the one that was loose will turn, but never get tight. Its not free-spinning, it will take about 5-ft/lbs but never get tight. It seems to be spinning the bolt down at the block. HOW COULD THIS BE? should I pull the ENTIRE top end?

This seems like its going to be a full motor out thing. I looked at doing that today but realized I could get the head off without too much pain. I really don't want to have to split the crankcase, thats just asking for trouble later.

That's what I feared when I read your original post. It would appear the stud that connects the head is spinning down bellow . Here's what I would try...but be damn careful as you don't want to strip the threads in the crankcase where the stud threads in (ie need to buy entire bottom end). Put two regular nuts on the top of the stud instead of the acorn, this will allow you tighten the stud, it may be loose or might be stripped already and that would suck big time. If you can tighten the stud, you should be able to remove the nuts and put the acorn nut back on. If you can't get the stud tight, I hope you have a warranty because you are going to need the entire bottom end case replaced. If you don't have a warranty, maybe you can JB weld or helicoil the stud, but there's a lot of force on those parts.

Good luck

Cheers!
ChinaV

[andre555]

I second ChinaV: remove the acron and screw the stud in - check if it gets grip in the bottom, i.e. crankcase. You can use a stud that is threaded only for the first few mm and then blank with smaller diameter to check this, some shops should have something like this. If it grips its good!
Then the problem is only on top, there you can helicoil a new thread, have done that on other enginees, but these had studs for the head and the bottom seperatly, worked there.

[spook]

What size of 244's did you put on. Front? Back? Looking to do the same.

[barnone]

osucantwell,
What ever happened to this problem? You should respond to ChinaV's and andre555's attempt to help you.