I want to change/bend brake pedal

[jape]

One of the things for me riding my Kinlon that annoys is the foot-rest position and brake pedal position being such that my right foot is always skewed sideways on top of them as the brake pedal is too high. I notice a lot of other riders traveling like this with the foot turned out, not a good safe position I believe! I cannot see any easy way of altering this as the pedal is fixed and constrained by frame but the outward turning part of the shaft of it may be bendable. I assume it is steel from the welds and rust? I would think it could be heated, bent a bit in two planes to keep it downwards but inline, maybe then quenched to keep strength.

Any ideas about this? I don't like it forcing me to ride with my foot outwards or else with my foot accidentally putting some pressure on the brake at all times.

[CrazyCarl]

Can you post a picture of the setup?

CC

[davidqc]

... traveling like this with the foot turned out, not a good safe position ... I cannot see any easy way of altering this as the pedal is fixed and constrained by frame...

MMmmm...how's about having ya's feet altered a bit there Jape...http://www.surgery-guide.com/foot-su...struction.html

...cheaper

[jape]

flyhead..JPG
I tried getting that foot surgery mate, but they insisted I needed very expensive brain re-building first after my recent cosmetic surgery went wrong, so no, I shall still have to bend the lever!

kinlonfbrake..jpg

[CrazyCarl]

Hmmm... that seems like a funny brake design. Does the lever hit the foot peg mount when you're standing on it? Almost be nice if the lever was routed under the pegs.

By the way, the cosmetic surgery did wonders for your eyes!

CC

[jape]

Yeah I didn't mind the red eyes as that was a usual thing every time I looked in the mirror first thing in the morning but as you can see the nose collapsed badly during surgery, no, not from to much cocaine!

The lever stops just before the peg mounting because it is limited by travel in the hydraulic piston at the back. It is a disc brake but only slows you well if you are going twenty kph or less. I do like a rear brake though, might have to change this whole setup, not much room for maneuver but.

The rust on the lever turned out to be red dirt specks so I am not sure it is steel! I don't want to try and bend anything else. I imagine it is steel though, I will have to scrape a bit off and check what metal it is later. Definitely useless as is, it pushes the boot sideways so I am only half on the peg at rest, and if you stand on the pegs (which I do a lot on bumpy dirt roads round my place) then the back end is forced inadvertently under brakes all the time with the consequences you might imagine ... and my foot size is only ten and a half, not a huge boot. I have had girlfriend sit in place and also stand and she is only five foot and a few bits - the angle of foot is still awkward for her so it is a bad design over all rider heights, your foot is constantly forced in tension at an angle up against the ankle so you have to slide your foot half off the peg. Anyway if it is steel a bit of heat will bend it down the inch or so required. I might take it in to the local engineering shop so it is done properly and not weakened.

[Sprocket]

Mine according to my pal who viewed my bike yesterday, is bent in, probably a remnant from the time it was dropped before I had it. I am not going to take it off to bend it, I just plan putting my boot up against the metal by the pivot and pulling the end of the lever outwards until it is more or less straight. Your pedal I think would be the reverse, put your boot or a block of wood behind the lever and push it in with your own strength.

[ear_spear]

Mate, I had the same problem.. there are two ways to fix the problem. One way is to go to an engineering shop and get a new cylinder rod made up. It needs to be longer so that the angle of the pedal can be changed to lower the brake lever. This costs a little bit and you have to be sure the maker threads the end far enough down the rod to allow for decent adjustment. Trick, they may get it wrong.
My solution was a little easier : I removed the brake lever and cut a vee in it so that it could be bent down easily. After a few trial and error welding tacks and being happy with the position, I ground a couple of big vees in the side of the cut to allow for good weld penetration and welded it up. DON'T be tempted to grind the welds flush on the sides, this significantly weakens the weld. A quick coat of decent epoxy paint and the job was done. Still, I'm lucky enough to be a fitter by trade with access to everything I need. A welding shop wouldn't charge too much to weld for you, but you'd have to do the bending.