Dong Fang DF 250 RTB Bobber Information

**DanDaMan** · 12-31-2012, 06:43 PM

buying them in your state is the way to go , they register it and get the plates for ya

**Carolina Bobber** · 01-01-2013, 10:21 PM

Originally Posted by ben2go

I couldn't find your ad.Did you sell?Please refer the owner to this site.

Haven't been on on in awhile. Sorry. The bike is still for sell. Got a lot of lookers and people wanting to trade. I still start it up some a let it run and it still runs perfect.

**skullworkz** · 01-03-2013, 11:35 PM

Got my new seat today! Here's the progressdonger22.jpg donger23.jpg

**Goodbar** · 01-04-2013, 12:15 AM

Skullworkz: Looks good and clean, Not too comfy looking though. As I remember your not doing springs either? Is your shop heated at all or are you toughing it out. I am going to buy a motorcycle jack today so I can get to my new sprocket. I just added black braided line covers over the larger rubber hoses , Turned out nice. My seat springs and and adapters will be here Monday. Your the man Skullworkz! DF 250RTB Forum 2.jpg DF 250RTB Forum 3.jpg Df250 RTB 1 Forum.jpg
Lots of you Removed these lines to move your ignition down. I just covered the lines for now.

**skullworkz** · 01-04-2013, 01:26 AM

Goodbar: I don't have a garage or a shop! I have a basement and a large wooden shed. Nope, it's not heated and it's cold as hell out there! Looking good on the hose braid! I was thinking of doing the same thing, but I wanted to do stainless. Oh, and I have found that a cinder block and a very thin piece of plywood works great for getting the rear wheel off the ground. The frame is nice and flat and if you use the wood you wont scratch the frame. The bike is light enough to pick the back end up by your self. I haven't found a reason to buy a bike jack yet.

**Goodbar** · 01-04-2013, 05:51 AM

Originally Posted by skullworkz

Goodbar: I don't have a garage or a shop! I have a basement and a large wooden shed. Nope, it's not heated and it's cold as hell out there! Looking good on the hose braid! I was thinking of doing the same thing, but I wanted to do stainless. Oh, and I have found that a cinder block and a very thin piece of plywood works great for getting the rear wheel off the ground. The frame is nice and flat and if you use the wood you wont scratch the frame. The bike is light enough to pick the back end up by your self. I haven't found a reason to buy a bike jack yet.

I Like working on the bike but dont know if it would be much fun in the cold. You are one tough and dedicated enthusiast. If your doing the stainless lines Id stay clear of the stainless steel braid sleeve as that shit is hard as hell to work with because it un-ravels fast on the ends. not to mention the steel slivers that hurt like hell. Id go with the premaid lines with the rubber lined billet clamps built into the ends, a bit spendy but so is the braid sleeve. I am going to use stainless premade lines for fuel lines ( where it counts) and bowl drain. The black braid sleeve is super easy to work with if you slip both your clamps on before you cut it and melt the ends with a lighter. I lubed the rubber lines and the braid with armoral before hand, it helped me pull it really tight for a sharp fit . They have fake plastic chrome look stainless steel braid, but looks to sparkly and cheap. The black looks good and is smooth satin. Got a decent roll on ebay for a few bucks. I have a 11 inch tall Motorcycle stand, Ill try to muscle it on, I forget how light this bike is. The Motorcycle Jacks I looked at would of taken up too much valuable garage space so I passed on the only one I found at Menards today . If you ever need any custom super quality weatherproof gloss laminated precut and printed or unprinted Vinyi graffics for your tank sides or other area let me know, I have a full size printer cutter. The ones we do look just like paint, Just need your art by email. You never said if your putting coil or torsion suspension on your seat?

**skullworkz** · 01-04-2013, 02:18 PM

Seat is going to the same other than the saddle. I am going to install an air shock in the same position as the OEM eventually.

**sivilized** · 01-04-2013, 04:02 PM

For those of you that have changed the bars on these bikes I have a couple questions:

1st: Did you go with a 1" or 3/4" bar?
2nd: Did you install bar-ends?
3rd: How difficult/easy is it to change over the grips and starter?

Thanks.

**skullworkz** · 01-04-2013, 05:12 PM

Originally Posted by sivilized

For those of you that have changed the bars on these bikes I have a couple questions:

1st: Did you go with a 1" or 3/4" bar?
2nd: Did you install bar-ends?
3rd: How difficult/easy is it to change over the grips and starter?

Thanks.

7/8" is OEM, bar are easy to change out. Just give the grips a firm pull and twist at the same time. BE SURE TO UNHOOK ALL THE WIRES TO YOUR CUTOFF SWITCHES FIRST!