Results 2,141 to 2,150 of 6336
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#2141 Re: Dong Fang DF 250 RTB Bobber Information
- Join Date
- May 2012
- Location
- New Zealand
- Posts
- 47
06-12-2012, 11:33 PMI have some 20w50 lying around could I use this in the 250RTB? My bike arrives ( In New Zealand) this weekend. I read this forum everyday ,while the bike has been on the boat from L.A. . I can't wait to use all the tips and tricks you all have provided.
Cheers Matt
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#2142 Re: Dong Fang DF 250 RTB Bobber Information
- Join Date
- Aug 2011
- Location
- texas
- Posts
- 266
06-13-2012, 12:47 AM20/50 will work ya , esp if live in a hot climate , most say stay to the wet clutch oil but I use normal 10/40 to no ill effects
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#2143 Re: Dong Fang DF 250 RTB Bobber Information06-13-2012, 01:01 PM
It's the full synthetic (non motorcycle) oils that cause the clutch slip.
Back in the day, regular oil was all that was available and still is ok.2011 Yamaha Star 250
2010 DF 250 Bobber (sold)
2009 Triumph Bonneville T100
1993 Kawasaki Vulcan88(sold)
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#2144 Re: Dong Fang DF 250 RTB Bobber Information06-15-2012, 06:29 AM
My battery kept dying, and I charged it, got the motor running, and disconnected the positive terminal to the battery. Bike died immediately. Tried it again to make sure I did it right, same results. I have a new stator to put in, and I loosened all the screws on engine on the left side of the bike. The part covering the front sprocket came off easy, but I am having a hell of a time getting to the stator. Any suggestions on how to crack it open without breaking anything? I don't want to screw up the gasket since I don't have a spare.
DF 250 RTB
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#2145 Re: Dong Fang DF 250 RTB Bobber Information
- Join Date
- Apr 2012
- Location
- florida
- Posts
- 100
06-15-2012, 09:36 AMHey y'all, are the Hesit and DF fenders interchangeable? I decided to go with the Heist and it's arriving this afternoon. I actually prefer the rounded DF rear fender and was wondering if it might fit tha Heist.
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#2146 Re: Dong Fang DF 250 RTB Bobber Information
- Join Date
- Apr 2012
- Location
- florida
- Posts
- 100
06-15-2012, 12:41 PMHey again, support needed. Quiet over on the Heist thread. I bought a 'new' heist from a dealer up north here in FL. I was told it had a 'few' miles on it. Yesterday (delivering it today) they told me it had 100 miles on it. 100 isn't a few IMO. I was thinking 10-25 since they said they were testing new sprocket bolts. Any ideas on this? Thanx.
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#2147 Re: Dong Fang DF 250 RTB Bobber Information
- Join Date
- Aug 2011
- Location
- texas
- Posts
- 266
06-15-2012, 02:49 PMless break in for you :p
and no idea on the stator , we all have had battery issue's dying/dead and having to cut the battery box to fit an american battery - just gotta cut small slot for battery overflow
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#2148 Re: Dong Fang DF 250 RTB Bobber Information
- Join Date
- Apr 2012
- Location
- florida
- Posts
- 100
06-15-2012, 03:10 PMNever mind. The plan is still GO! Thanx for listening to my paranoia!
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#2149 Re: Dong Fang DF 250 RTB Bobber Information
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
- Location
- SE MI
- Posts
- 96
06-15-2012, 05:38 PMI was at a big vintage bike show last weekend. I brought out one of my Triumph Cafe Racers to show off my work and I also brought my semi-caffed DF Bobber pitbike to tool around on. My running joke all day as I passed friends was "Does this motorcycle make my ass look big?" It's actually quite funny when you understand that I'm 6'-2" and 350lbs.
The funniest thing to me was that my DF got more attention and interest from the crowd than my cafe racer Triumph. A fellow from a magazine stopped me to take photos. Of course I 'pulled an Elvis' and asked to be photographed from the neck-up. The magazine guy wants one for himself. This has been one of the best toys I've ever owned. Great fun.
/Mike
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#2150 Re: Dong Fang DF 250 RTB Bobber Information06-15-2012, 08:42 PM
Well, I figured it out. A night of sleep can do wonders when you are beating for head against a brick wall. For anyone else needing to change their stator, here's some help:
Drain the oil from the engine.
Disconnect the battery.
Remove all of the screws from the left side of the engine. It is a good idea to annotate where the screws came from. I believe there are four sizes.
Remove the front sprocket cover.
Remove the screws from the starter. The starter will come off with the engine cover.
Remove the screws covering the rotor from the starter to the engine. Remove the cover, and remove the screw on the inside. This is the one I didn't see last night. The first picture shows this.
Remove the screw holding the wiring harness that is by the front sprocket.
Carefully pull the cover off. I left the starter connector attached.
Open your oil can and disconnect the two connectors that attach to the wiring harness on the stator.
My stator came with the attachment plugs connected. They will not go through the hole in the cover. A cable puller would be handy here, but I used a lot of patience and a tiny flat head screwdriver. I color coded the yellow wires to ensure they ended up in the same hole.
Unscrew the stator from the cover and replace with a new one. Run the wiring harness into your oil can.
When I put everything back together I used some white lithium on the rotors since it would be a dry start. The gasket didn't crumble or break so I left it on.
When putting the cover back on the motor, tighten the screws as you would a tire, alternating top to bottom and side to side. There is a hole on the bottom that is thicker than the rest, so if you end up pin with a floating around, it goes in there.IMG_1349.jpgIMG_1348.jpgDF 250 RTB
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