Dong Fang DF 250 RTB Bobber Information

**Bob form NV** · 03-07-2013, 12:41 PM

Thanks Goodbar, The more I know you the more I know. I'll get some of that stuff and rub it out. We don't have the custom decal outlet here but threre are plenty on the net. I've done a couple of custom sewing machines and the decals look great.

I've found some useful information on the net about engine break in and a repair manual for a 125cc honda that our engine is a clone to.

I'm not sure where all these adjustment screws are but the carb in the manual looks the same as ours and the brief look over I gave it is pretty detailed on adjustments.

Got to get to work.

Thanks againbefore.jpg after.jpg PICT0004.jpg

**Crelow** · 03-07-2013, 02:25 PM

Started it this morning and seems to be ok. Not once did I hear a hiccup or noise from the carb. Ill run over to the HomeDepot and get the washer soon.

**SR.MAILMAN** · 03-07-2013, 03:54 PM

The Air Induction has NO influence on the combustion chamber! It's purpose is to add air to the exhaust port to complete the rich mixture burn,hence the popping on deceleration (it is an emissions thing).

Fine tuning the carb is another matter altogether.
HIGHPERFORMANCEPZCAEBURETOR.pdf (application/pdf Object)

**Goodbar** · 03-07-2013, 04:46 PM

Originally Posted by SR.MAILMAN

The Air Induction has NO influence on the combustion chamber! It's purpose is to add air to the exhaust port to complete the rich mixture burn,hence the popping on deceleration (it is an emissions thing).

Fine tuning the carb is another matter altogether.
HIGHPERFORMANCEPZCAEBURETOR.pdf (application/pdf Object)

Sir Maillman: I always believed our version of smog crap valve worked both ways both adding air to emmisions for a reburn and reburning any unburned fumes again thru the carb,again as a recycle, But you are probably correct. One would thing either way a leak at the homemade cap wouldnt be a ideal situation,. Ill read your PDF link. Thanks

**SR.MAILMAN** · 03-07-2013, 06:24 PM

Automobiles use a different system/method and that may be where the confusion comes from.

**Crelow** · 03-08-2013, 12:09 AM

Yesterday I must have done a hair more than finger tight on the thank. Suggestions on repair? Epoxy/ jv weld or get it welded? So far is just a drip.

**skullworkz** · 03-08-2013, 12:18 AM

Originally Posted by Crelow

Yesterday I must have done a hair more than finger tight on the thank. Suggestions on repair? Epoxy/ jv weld or get it welded? So far is just a drip.

If you read back a bit, some other people were having the same issue. They used JB Weld and sanded smooth after drying. If I remember correctly they make a petro safe mix. I am going to install my headlight soon and will be doing this method to prevent a leak when I put it back on, thus preventing any future issues. Also, on that note! If you haven't Kreem'd your tank by now you may want to soon, I'm starting to notice rust inside the tank. And, as anyone knows this is going to be an BIG issue. So that means I'm going to be doing the light sooner than later, so I can coat the tank.