Dong Fang DF 250 RTB Bobber Information

**drgnsghost** · 04-14-2014, 03:39 PM

Thank you all for replies. Everything you said makes sense in regards to dealer. Only thing is I didn't buy from dealer. I got the bike for $850 used with 1200 miles on it. Took a gamble because the metal piece with a whole, that the shift link goes into to shift, was broken. So at the time of purchase the link was rigged over that same bar rather than under. (Hope that somehow made sense). I read several pages from this forum before buying bike. Little problems that the bike had I summed up to having relation to the link being off.
Don't have any friends that ride,I had the licensefor a while but want til now that I saw a chance to get a nice starter bike.
With all that said, I spent last week researching, reading and youtubeing... was able to figure the thing out. Doesn't seem to have engine or transmission problems, just me not knowing how to use the adjuster screws Bike isn't over reving or dyeing out anymore. There is a bit of sputtering when I'm in low gear not giving it any throttle. Guessing that's somewhat normal.

Thanks for the feedback, over the summer I'll start looking into sprocket, jet, etc. For now I plan on arty last spray painting the spokes on rim to avoid rust.already notice a bit forming.

**Woody87** · 04-14-2014, 11:27 PM

Hello all, just need some quick advice from experienced China bike owners. I've got a 2010 model DF250RTB, which, up until now, ran fine. As of yesterday it blew a fuse, and I used the replacement that's included in the bike's electrical barrel-thing. This fuse blew moments later, leaving me to believe that there might be a short somewhere. After further investigation I couldn't see anything aside from some slight browning on some wires at the CDI and rectifier (I'll chalk it up to a careless soldering machine)

From what our manuals say, the bike runs a 15A fast-blow fuse, but the ones included appeared to be 10A. Strange thing is that the bike ran with what appeared to be a 10A for the past year, albeit with some rough starting here and there. Has anyone else had any electrical issues with their bike, and what is the actual fuse rating we need to run? Any help will be greatly appreciated, as I've got an MSF Experience Riders Course to attend Wednesday, and I need my bike up and running to attend. Thanks all!

**ben2go** · 04-14-2014, 11:59 PM

Originally Posted by Woody87

Hello all, just need some quick advice from experienced China bike owners. I've got a 2010 model DF250RTB, which, up until now, ran fine. As of yesterday it blew a fuse, and I used the replacement that's included in the bike's electrical barrel-thing. This fuse blew moments later, leaving me to believe that there might be a short somewhere. After further investigation I couldn't see anything aside from some slight browning on some wires at the CDI and rectifier (I'll chalk it up to a careless soldering machine)

From what our manuals say, the bike runs a 15A fast-blow fuse, but the ones included appeared to be 10A. Strange thing is that the bike ran with what appeared to be a 10A for the past year, albeit with some rough starting here and there. Has anyone else had any electrical issues with their bike, and what is the actual fuse rating we need to run? Any help will be greatly appreciated, as I've got an MSF Experience Riders Course to attend Wednesday, and I need my bike up and running to attend. Thanks all!

The electrical connections on the DF are double crimped,not soldered.If there is browning on the wiring,something got overly hot,causing the fuse to blow.It sounds like,from your description,that the rectifier regulator or CDI burned up.If that's the case,the ignition pick up and stator will need to be tested or replaced.

**barnone** · 04-15-2014, 12:10 AM

Woody,
I did a search of this thread for fuse and the only relevant hit was yours so it doesn't seem to be a common problem.

I don't have the 2010 electrical diagram.

What were the circumstances of the first blown fuse? Turning on the ignition switch? Starting the bike? Just taken the tank off and put it back on? etc.

Look for wiring connectors pulled apart. Check for frayed wiring.

You might have to get out your wiring diagram and start checking from the battery positive terminal.

I'll go look at my 2012 wiring diagram for ideas.

I would think that a 10 amp fuse would be sufficient.

**Woody87** · 04-15-2014, 12:33 AM

I had the bike running quite well last weekend, and pulled it out of storage this week to find that the bike didn't have power. I thought it to be the battery, but after charging the battery and getting the same results found it to be the fuse. I replaced the fuse, started the bike and got it warmed up, and after about 10 minutes of running time the 10A fuse blew.

While it was running it did sound a bit off, as though it had a miss. I've never had any issues up until today (other than cold-starts) and I haven't messed with the fuel tank, or any hardware that might have damaged wiring. I'll be taking a multimeter to it tomorrow, but before I start replacing the more expensive stuff (CDI, rectifier, etc.) I'd like to confirm the fuse rating, as too low of a fuse would cause some of the issues I had today. On a side-note, where's the best place to get replacement parts for the DF?

**barnone** · 04-15-2014, 01:07 AM

Stick a 15 amp fuse in it. Shouldn't cause any damage. However the original 10 amp fuse did last a long time.

How about trying another 10 amp fuse and see if it lasts 10 minutes like the second 10 amp fuse. Something warming up and causing high amp draw?

Parts list at
http://www.scooterdepot.us/parts_htm...arts_list.html
from scooter depot.

I haven't really needed any parts for my ex 2101 or current 2012 so can't really answer the replacement part question.

Lots of Ebay parts for 167FMM engine.

EDIT: I have had good luck with other Chinese bike parts and expertise from

http://www.hooperimports.com/showpages.asp?pid=1013

**Woody87** · 04-15-2014, 01:18 AM

Thank you for the link and parts list! I looked closer at some of the electrical components, and the brown discoloration seems to be from the manufacturer, rather than heat caused by a fault or short. I'm going to look more into it once I get daylight to work by, but for now I'm going up to a 15A and see how it runs. I've never ran the bike in warm weather (got it in winter), so maybe the warm weather was a factor? the only loose wire I had was running from the switch that contacts the front brake lever on the handlebar. One of the wires (green yellow, or yellow green, I forget) got disconnected while I was moving it onto my truck. Other than that, everything seems in place.

**Woody87** · 04-15-2014, 11:42 PM

So I've replaced the old fuse with a Radio Shack 15A 250V fast-blow ceramic fuse, and so far no issues. I kept the wiring barrel open so I could keep an eye on things while it ran, and no issues as far as I could tell. Now I'm dealing with a bit of sputtering from the carb, adjusting the idle screw helped a bit, and so did re-routing the throttle cable out from under the fuel tank.

It would appear that a wrong amperage fuse was put in as a spare by the manufacturer (apparently their smaller bikes use 10A and below fuses), so just a heads-up to those of you with the DF, you may want to double-check your spare's rating and match a new one to the fuse you're running.

**barnone** · 04-16-2014, 01:49 AM

Glad you got her going. You might want to take the float bowl and clean your pilot and main jet if she has been sitting for a while.

The DF uses the PZ30 which is like the PZ26 at
http://wem.walbro.com/distributors/s...CAEBURETOR.pdf

**Woody87** · 04-17-2014, 01:04 AM

Thank you Barnone for the PDF! I've got a vast array of tools at my disposal, so all I've needed is a manual to go off of as I'm used to working on older Japanese imports (mostly Datsuns) and 70's era sidedrafts has some similarities to the PZ setup.

I completed the Motorcycle Safety Foundation experienced rider's course today, and the only issues I had with the DF was the sputtering carb, mostly at low RPMs in 1st and 2nd gear, and a noticeable lack of power. I figured a combination of the cold weather and rich carb might be the cause, and heard a great deal of popping in the exhaust when decelerating as well which is probably a good sign of an overly-rich mixture. I'll be working on that this weekend, as well as a drag-bar/bar-end mirror install, and fixing the turn signal switch and light combination switch. Our manuals say that the combo switch is supposed to turn on/off the running lights, but no matter which of the three settings I set it to there's no change. I've also got to adjust the clutch lever/cable, as I can't set it into neutral while at a standstill or while the bike is running, it'll only disengage when the bike is off. Anyone had this issue as well?

One of the MSF coaches noticed that the rear tire on my DF wasn't mounted properly, so I'll have to get that remounted/balanced too and hope that it's not a damaged rim. Got a lot of compliments from other ERC riders and bystanders for the look of the bike, and the ride was enjoyable too. I just wish there weren't so many gremlins to be squashed with my bike. I suppose for 1,800 that's to be expected.