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**kingmarty45** · 04-21-2009, 11:48 PM

the rest of us care forchetto...

**txm123** · 04-27-2009, 03:18 AM

This weekend i went for a ride as I always do,after climbing a hill with a friend ,I heard a loud noise(boom),I didn't realise what was going untill I noticed that the lights were dimmed untill y turned the throtle.The day after I searched for the fault and voila!!!! The batterie exploded,literaly a huge crack at one side. So I'm trying to figure out why could this happen,the first thing I guess it should be a bad regulator,this was after I hitted a considerably bump,maybe the fins inside broke or whatever.

What do you think?

I heard that YUASA is a good brand for batteries ,I need a 12v7A,maintenance free I think?any suiggestion? What comes with a KLR,XR or DT for example?anyone knows?

And finally who know how can I take out the seat to reach the battery compartement that I can't find the dammed screws!!! Sounds simple but I bet they are hidden somewhere?Or maybe is just put with some plastic locks?Any comment would be highly appreciated.

Thanks and we keep in touch !

Alejandro.

**ChinaV** · 04-27-2009, 05:33 AM

Yuasa is very reliable brand of battery, I would put a voltage meter on your bike when it's running just to be sure it's not over charging.

You should also mix up a spray bottle with water and Baking Soda (Bicarbonate of Soda) to neutralize the battery acid that probably splashed all over your bike after the old battery exploded.

Cheers!
ChinaV

**txm123** · 04-27-2009, 01:15 PM

thanks for the tip of the soda,and I'll check that regulator ...Maybe the problem was the rpms I reached too much voltage and the regulator couldn't handle it....Any good brand of regulators?¡
bye bye

**forchetto** · 04-27-2009, 02:51 PM

Originally Posted by txm123

thanks for the tip of the soda,and I'll check that regulator ...Maybe the problem was the rpms I reached too much voltage and the regulator couldn't handle it....Any good brand of regulators?¡
bye bye

The regulator should cope with whatever revs the engine reaches. Check that voltage with the engine running, with lights off it should read something between 13 and 15 volts. No more or you run the risk of overcharging.

Did your old battery have a vent hose?. If so was it crushed or blocked in any way?, this could cause the battery to explode. That vent hose lets the build up of hydrogen gas produced as a by-product of the charging process escape.

Make sure you wash off every nook and cranny of the area afected by the acid. It may not seem to have done any damage but any acid left in crevices, etc will corrode its way through the metal.

**txm123** · 04-27-2009, 08:08 PM

Do you know how can I take out the seat of an Apollo Orion like dirt bike?I need to change that battery.

I can't fully open the throtle because the bike is just 350km ,I've been told not to do son untill I reach 600km after three oil changes...is this correct?what do you think?

**forchetto** · 04-27-2009, 09:57 PM

Originally Posted by txm123

Do you know how can I take out the seat of an Apollo Orion like dirt bike?I need to change that battery.

I can't fully open the throtle because the bike is just 350km ,I've been told not to do son untill I reach 600km after three oil changes...is this correct?what do you think?

On mine the rear screws that hold the side panels also hold the seat. I have to remove them and then lift and pull the seat backwards to disengage a tab from the petrol tank. It might be different on yours.

It's not advisable to use continous full throttle until at least 1000 km are covered and the engine is run-in, it can be used on short bursts though, but the 3 oil changes are not necessary. Perhaps an early one at 3-400 km to get rid of the original low quality Chinese oil and the next at 1000-1500 km when the engine has bedded-in.

**txm123** · 04-28-2009, 02:28 AM

What do you think is better to avoid loosing a bolt ?

Loctite red thred locker

Bolts with brake (plastic or metal)

Just a bolt with a pressure washer?

I lost a bolt from one of the screws that hold the engine !

**forchetto** · 04-28-2009, 08:18 AM

Red Loctite is only for semi-permanent locking. It ¡s very difficult to undo without special treatments, heat, etc. The type to use for us is the Blue loctite 242. This can be removed with normal tools.

For nuts I like to use those self-locking nuts with a nylon insert, but they're no good on hot parts like engines, exhausts, etc and also can only be used a limited number of times before the self-locking properties are finished.

The best locking washers by far are Nord-Lock, but they're very expensive and difficult to find:

http://www.nordlock.com/default.asp?url=2.16.37