New Regal Raptor DD250-2N in Shanghai

**macieq** · 07-28-2011, 03:41 AM

Originally Posted by dewsnap

Hey Macieq. I looked at my bike today and i have an open screw hole under the throttle the same as yours. I never even noticed it before.

I don't have a gps so i haven't seen how accurate the speedo is but i don't have much faith in it at all if it's anything like the rev counter. Completely unreliable.

I think the speedo might be more reliable and accurate as it is mechanical whereas the tacho is electronic. Have you seen the flexible shaft running from the front wheel to the clocks?

BTW: I filled up the engine oil yesterday. I got 0.5 L in and the level was just in the mid between max and min. So, 1/3 of the total volume (1.6 L) was missing. The coolant was approx. 200 ml too low. I also got the brake fluid reservoir unscrewed. The brake fluid was fine, just a bit overfilled, therefore not visible in the sight glass.

**macieq** · 07-28-2011, 05:40 AM

Hey Mike, a plastic cap is a good idea, I thought about it already. BTW: The store confirmed that the second hole is optional for another model, not for the DD250-2N.

**Nuhaus** · 07-28-2011, 01:06 PM

Originally Posted by macieq

Hey Mike, a plastic cap is a good idea, I thought about it already. BTW: The store confirmed that the second hole is optional for another model, not for the DD250-2N.

I'd get one put on if I were you. Made a whole world of difference when I got the second cable installed on my Honda Rebel. Should be a fairly cheap mod up on Jaoji Lu if they can't do it at the Regal Raptor shop.

**macieq** · 07-29-2011, 02:57 PM

Originally Posted by Nuhaus

I'd get one put on if I were you. Made a whole world of difference when I got the second cable installed on my Honda Rebel. Should be a fairly cheap mod up on Jaoji Lu if they can't do it at the Regal Raptor shop.

Thanks Nuhaus! Could you describe the improvement with some details? Is the output control more sensitive, or anything else?

**BellaCorse** · 07-29-2011, 03:10 PM

Here's the push-pull cable set-up on a modern Hinckley Triumph Bonneville. Note the top cable uses the same teardrop shaped retention clip and the bottom cable uses a theaded ferrule.

bce059a.jpg

Keep in mind that your carburetor or EFI throttle body -must- be already set-up to accept the second cable. Typically there is a circular plate on the throttle shaft on which both cables wrap around it, in opposing directions of course. My DF250RTB bobber with its Walbro carb for example, has two cables attached to the carb. However in the DF's case, the second cable on the side actuates an accelerator pump, whereas the cable on the top of the carb operates the slide (air valve) and needle. The two cables merge together under the fuel tank with a cable spliter.

/Mike

**euphonius** · 07-29-2011, 03:20 PM

Surely the most noticeable thing about push-pull cabling is that deceleration is far more positive than passive, which gives better engine braking if you've properly downshifted.

Bottom line: better engine control.

Cheers

**macieq** · 07-29-2011, 03:21 PM

OK Mike, thanks, the picture is quite clear. Normally, if there is only one cable, the job is done by a "pull back" spring. In case of the double cable configuration, do you have a pull back spring at the throttle, too? If not, the force needed to turn the grip would be reduced, but does the throttle close sufficiently without the spring?

**macieq** · 07-29-2011, 03:29 PM

Originally Posted by BellaCorse

Keep in mind that your carburetor or EFI throttle body -must- be already set-up to accept the second cable. Typically there is a circular plate on the throttle shaft on which both cables wrap around it, in opposing directions of course. My DF250RTB bobber with its Walbro carb for example, has two cables attached to the carb. However in the DF's case, the second cable on the side actuates an accelerator pump, whereas the cable on the top of the carb operates the slide (air valve) and needle. The two cables merge together under the fuel tank with a cable spliter.[/SIZE]

/Mike

Yes, this is clear to me. therefore I have checked the situation on the Raptor already. There is only a single disc (accomodation for the cable) on the throttle shaft. So, a mod of the shaft would be needed, too, not only in the grip.

**macieq** · 07-29-2011, 03:33 PM

Originally Posted by euphonius

Surely the most noticeable thing about push-pull cabling is that deceleration is far more positive than passive, which gives better engine braking if you've properly downshifted.

Bottom line: better engine control.

Cheers

Hey Euphonius, this is what I think, too. Anyway, the engine braking behavior of the Raptor is quite good already. It is difficult to foresee, how the change would be. Therefore I aksed Nuhaus for some more info as he has the experience on the Rebel before and after.

**Nuhaus** · 07-30-2011, 02:28 AM

Originally Posted by macieq

Thanks Nuhaus! Could you describe the improvement with some details? Is the output control more sensitive, or anything else?

Yes I found throttle control to be much more responsive, especially when decelerating. My mechanic was entirely surprised when he first saw that my bike did not have it installed in the first place. He said it wasn't safe and that the throttle could get stuck. I hadn't noticed it before he pointed it out but after it was installed I definitely noticed a difference.

However, I Just remembered that your bike is Efi, not carb like mine. Therefore the behavior could be entirely different (although it has a similar parallel twin motor). Sorry for the confusion. Have you checked out any other RR Efi bikes? It may be more trouble than it's worth to mod such a bike with a second cable, especially when your bike is still under warranty.