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  1. #21  
    C-Moto Guru david3921's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by firefightermatt View Post

    I got my 16 tooth front sproket from Sprocket Specialists part #550-16 for around $30 shipped and it bolted right on with no modification at all, it alone made a big difference and I dont think you would need to change the rear sprocket if you go with the 16t up front.
    Yep, that's where I got mine also.
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  2. #22  
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    so would going with a 44 rear sprocket and leaving the front stock be a better option for maintaining 60-65 or would a 44 rear 16front be better for those speeds. I start off in 2nd gear most of the time so i think its geared a little low stock
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  3. #23  
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    Quote Originally Posted by AirFramer View Post
    so would going with a 44 rear sprocket and leaving the front stock be a better option for maintaining 60-65 or would a 44 rear 16front be better for those speeds. I start off in 2nd gear most of the time so i think its geared a little low stock
    Its really just up too you...I only changed my front sprocket and my bike still has plenty of low end power.

    I would just go ahead and change both the front and rear and if you dont like the power loss put one back to stock and leave the other one on.
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  4. #24  
    C-Moto Guru david3921's Avatar
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    I agree with matt. I changed the rear first then the front. I went with a 16T-44T combination. I knew that if I didn't like it I could easily change the front back.
    Here is a chart that shows ratios;

    http://www.sprocketcenter.com/g/4156...tio-chart.html

    As you can see, changing the front makes the largest change. You can fine tune the bike to you by picking a front and trying different rears. It's a PITA because the rear tire needs to be removed everytime, however. I think it was frochetto that said that the front should be the largest that will fit as it's easier on the chain. That would be a 16T for us as a 17T and above will not fit without mods.
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  5. #25  
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    so will just changing the front to a 16 make a large difference?
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  6. #26  
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    Quote Originally Posted by AirFramer View Post
    so will just changing the front to a 16 make a large difference?
    One tooth in the gearbox sprocket is worth about 3.5 in the rear wheel. I think that's about the optimum for the bike's power characteristics. You can raise the gearing more but the bike will be faster in 4th than 5th. There simply won't be enough torque to cope with gradients and adverse winds, etc.
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  7. #27  
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    Well I really don't worry about hills sense there are none. And I leave for work so early in the day and so late in the afternoon unless its a stormy day(which i wont be riding anyway) its about windless so 16/44 or 16/42 is a good change?
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  8. #28  
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    well i cant find a 16 front sprocket, what chain does this come with? or does that even matter for sprocket buying. i think im going to go with a 39rear and leave the front stock
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  9. #29  
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    Quote Originally Posted by AirFramer View Post
    what chain does this come with? or does that even matter for sprocket buying.
    Mine has a 428 chain, but some models have a 520. To find out measure the pitch, that is the distance between pins or rollers.

    428 will be 1/2" (12.5 mm), and 520 will be 5/8" (15.8 mm).

    Do let us know what it feels like with a 39 tooth sprocket, specially in terms of any clutch slipping when pulling away, acceleration and cruising revs, etc.
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  10. #30  
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    Quote Originally Posted by AirFramer View Post
    well i cant find a 16 front sprocket, what chain does this come with? or does that even matter for sprocket buying. i think im going to go with a 39rear and leave the front stock

    Go to here and put in 550-16 where it says S.S. Part Num

    http://www.sprocketspecialists.com
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