Qjiang QJ600GS / Benelli BJ600GS - rumors thread

[tomtom]

I've tried these mods on smaller bikes and really they make little difference except for the sound. ... IMHO, and I'm no expert but those baffles, spacers and the cat is in the muffler because it is a street bike to give you back-pressure to keep the torque which makes the bike more usable for a real world non-racing situation and obviously more environmentally friendly too. I for one wouldn't want an inline 600 on the road that was sluggish in the mid range torque band but was marginally more powerful around the red-line.

Here is it series of photos about replacing the exhaust system:
http://www.motorfans.com.cn/bbs/t_17344398.htm

[tomtom]

Agreed.
I bet there's a special sort of hell for those with leopard skin seat covers.

I found his brother!!!
snake.jpg

[tomtom]

Went to their shop in HuJu Road (Nanjing) again and saw a batch of new bikes there. Must be the next product run. The no-brand brakes (Brembo-like ones) are branded "Benelli" now.

Yes, and here are some pics:
Brakes2.jpgBrakes3.jpg

[felix]

Well regardless if there's any more power from those pipes, they look and sound way better, plus it can't hurt to lose all those kilos!

Actually not a very expensive mod, only 1700 on taobao:
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=15147791564

[Kennon]

its already known that the benelli is a Yamaha R6 derived engine therefore a full system for a R6 will bolt on nicely and being underslung and body hugging you could have saddlebags no with no worries of it over heating, i saw the post where it said should dyno it but just putting it on a dyno just tells you the power at the crank and rear wheel it would require a remap since its a Fi bike to gain more with a race exhaust on, but remapping you accomodate the lack of back pressure with more fueling or more air to keep the torque in the sweet spot midrange and map it for a increase in power in the top end as well. fuel injected bikes suffer if not mapped properly where as carb bikes the lack of back pressure causes more suction into the cylinder for fuel meaning even running with a cat on a carb bike it will be better suited but a jetting will still be better especially as most carb bikes are set up stupidly lean now to pass regulations

i run a cat free race exhaust on my bike with no db killer. my fathers bike also runs a cat free full system and has been remapped a increase of torque by 6% throughout the ranfe and a increase of 5.5bhp

Kennon

[tomtom]

It seems even our Tourfella friend in zhejiang has taken notice and is already offering a custom luggage system for the bike:
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=14791779893

Another option:
1EXYlJuJ87182.jpg

[tomtom]

Heard (on www.motorfans.com.cn) about some problems with the spark plugs - it was recommended to use (imported) NGK Iridium CR9EIX, of which a set of four costs ~1,000( (I guess the set of 4 for ~120Y @ taobao are fakes).
Also some rumors about (very) dirty oil, even already after 500km, with lots of metal at the magnetic oil-screw.
I will search for and post the exact links, if needed. However, anybody experienced or can confirm these problems?

[soberpete]

Heard (on www.motorfans.com.cn) about some problems with the spark pugs - it was recommended to use (imported) NGK Iridium CR9EIX, of which a set of four costs ~1,000Y.
Also some rumors about (very) dirty oil, even already after 500km, with lots of metal at the magnetic oil-screw.
I will search for and post the exact links, if needed. However, anybody experienced or can confirm these problems?

For my bike, the manual recommends doing the first oil change after 1000km but ZMC888 advised me to do it around 100km (The metallic shards are to be expected since it is a brand new engine), then the second at 1000km.

ZMC888: Correct me if I remembered any of that incorrectly.

[ZMC888]

its already known that the benelli is a Yamaha R6 derived engine therefore a full system for a R6 will bolt on nicely and being underslung and body hugging you could have saddlebags no with no worries of it over heating, i saw the post where it said should dyno it but just putting it on a dyno just tells you the power at the crank and rear wheel it would require a remap since its a Fi bike to gain more with a race exhaust on, but remapping you accomodate the lack of back pressure with more fueling or more air to keep the torque in the sweet spot midrange and map it for a increase in power in the top end as well. fuel injected bikes suffer if not mapped properly where as carb bikes the lack of back pressure causes more suction into the cylinder for fuel meaning even running with a cat on a carb bike it will be better suited but a jetting will still be better especially as most carb bikes are set up stupidly lean now to pass regulations

i run a cat free race exhaust on my bike with no db killer. my fathers bike also runs a cat free full system and has been remapped a increase of torque by 6% throughout the ranfe and a increase of 5.5bhp

Kennon

Quite a leap to jump from a rumour that the Benelli uses an old R6 engine to believing that the bike can be plugged in to Kawa diagnostics and remapped and that it will take a whole Kawa exhaust system. Also I was commenting on a Chinese exhaust system where the pipe was hacked and a candleabra that looked like it was solen from a Synagogue was welded on = power or torque boost unlikely.

Pete, read that thing about early oil change just in case of factory oil shavings is probably uncessary on most bikes, but a worthwhile insurance policy with any China bike.

[tomtom]

Pete, read that thing about early oil change just in case of factory oil shavings is probably uncessary on most bikes, but a worthwhile insurance policy with any China bike.

That's exactly the point. One should trust and follow the factories recommendations. Firstly, they should know best. Secondly, any additional oil change is costly and waste if not necessary. So far the "pure tenet"...

What worries me is that Benelli Q.J. recommends first oil change at 1,000km, while after 500km (maybe earlier?) a metall-mud is collected at the magnetic oil-screw (and oil is totally black too, for sure). Question is if this oil-mud would harm the engine or if it is normal (and hence acceptable). I am not an expert here...

But I know that clean oil is a life insurance for an engine and it might well worth the extra cost to exchange oil (and filter) more often than recommended by the factory.

Would be great if somebody with experience and knowledge could "enlighten" me (us?)