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#1 QingQi (Qlink) QM200GY About the clutch10-24-2008, 06:18 AM
Been having some shifting trouble with my QingQi QM200GY. Regardless of what I do with clutch lever adjustment, it feels like the clutch is always engaged. If the bike is running, it's almost impossible to get into neutral. Turn it off, and all the gears seem to be fine. After tearing it down, fiddling, and putting it back together nine times , I think I got it sorted.
If your clutch is slipping, you probably have worn out plates. You can get a set of new plates and springs, problem solved (usually).
If you remove the entire clutch assembly from the bike and still can't get it to shift, you could have transmission problems. I would check the pawls on the gear shifting cam and beyond that it's dropping the engine and splitting the cases. The transmission of my bike seemed fine when I had it torn down so I looked elsewhere.
If your bike creeps forward in gear with the clutch pulled in, or is extremely difficult to get into neutral with the engine running, replacing the following parts may help.
Let's have a look at the clutch diagram and the parts I ordered (shown in red).
#2 Washer (replaced because it looked worn).
#5 Lock Washer (replaced because I bent it too many times).
#6 Washer (replaced because it looked worn).
#12 Clutch Push Rod (replaced because I had a bad feeling. New one was about 2mm longer).
#14 Clutch Push Rod Cam (replaced because of excessive wear in the area that meets the number 12 clutch push rod. New one is slightly different).
#17 Thrust bearing (replaced because the needle bearings appeared worn).
#18 Oil Seal (replaced just to be safe).
You may want to order a clutch cover gasket, but after tearing mine down nine times and re-assembling, still no leaks from the original. Looks like QingQi is using very good quality gaskets at the factory.
Let's get inside and take a look. First thing you need to do is drain your oil. Then back off your rear brake adjuster so you can push the foot lever far enough down to access the screws and pull the cover. Remove all the screws (highlighted in purple) with an 8mm socket. Don't forget the one on the oil filter cover. Gently pull the cover (oil will spill all over your floor). You may have to give it a tap with a rubber hammer to break the seal with the gasket. With any luck, the gasket will stay in one piece.
Here is the inside. Notice the 14mm wrench I wedged in (bottom left) to keep the brake lever down and out of the way.
Let's remove the clutch springs and the pressure plate. Now you can get at the individual clutch plates and the clutch push rod. If you're just replacing springs and plates, do your thing and button her back up. I replaced the cluch push rod, the new one was 2mm longer.
The whole clutch removed, see the scoring on that washer. Maybe not necessary to replace, but I felt better doing it. The clutch push rod is still inserted, you need to pull it out before going to the next step.
The clutch push rod cam is probably the main cause of my problem. To get it out, remove the screw (purple) and washer (red), now pull the cam (green) out with a good set of pliers. The seal will come out with the cam.
My cam doesn't look so good , time for a new one.
Hmmm.. the new one (left) is slightly different. Maybe improved?
Now put it back together, replace the oil and fire it up. Shifts like a dream again.
Finally, drink large amounts of beer to celebrate your mechanical (in)ablilty
Cheers!
ChinaV
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