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  1. #11 Re: My blog of a Jetmax 250 
    Senior C-Moto Guru Zorge's Avatar
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    I can't get the right perspective from the photo, but I suppose that the problem is current position of handlebar switches and brake cylinders, together with their levers. Try to rotate them a little in the direction like when you open throttle. After that is easy to adjust mirrors - loose 14 mm nuts, pull back mirror rods...

    Also, do not forget to spray some silicone lubricant inside the mirror joints. After that, they become... how to say... very adjustable in all directions, without fear that you'll break them during this adjustment process.

    About the mirrors: I have a couple of those, but they came in matte black. In fact, the mirrors itself are not bad at all - they are bifocal. The only problem were too short mirror rods - with them you could only see the reflection of your own elbows. I made a new, longer mirror rods, and the visibility of what is going on behind me, drastically improved.

    If you decide to make longer mirror rods, beside with their length, you can also experiment with the angle under which rod was bent, the height where the bend is, etc.
    Last edited by Zorge; 07-06-2012 at 06:19 PM.
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  2. #12 Re: My blog of a Jetmax 250 
    C-Moto Senior WirralGhostHunter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikerdoc View Post
    Mine and my mates Jetmax don't have this problem, and three other riders who also have the Jetmax round this area that I know, don't have the problem either. You're likely right being that it will be a QA thing on the assembly line. I know that with all the models and the rapid rate of development and R&D, they (CFMoto) can't keep up with the demand. No excuses but it might be that not all staff on various aspects of assembly are up to speed with what's required. No excuses though, as QA should always be there. I'd either take it back to the dealer to put right, which should be simple enough, or tackle it oneself as it is only screws (PK head) to get the bar tupperware off (4 external ones then two once you get to the inside up near the swtichgear assemblies). It's likely the plastics just need removal then reapplication. Just my thoughts.
    Quote Originally Posted by Zorge View Post
    I can't get the right perspective from the photo, but I suppose that the problem is current position of handlebar switches and brake cylinders, together with their levers. Try to rotate them a little in the direction like when you open throttle. After that is easy to adjust mirrors - loose 14 mm nuts, pull back mirror rods...
    Thanks for the input guys.
    Given me the idea of taking the plastics off, slacken the handle bars and rotate them, hopefully curing the panel rubbing and mirror fouling in one shot. Will post results.
    This forum is great, thanks again
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  3. #13 Re: My blog of a Jetmax 250 
    foreign China moto dude bikerdoc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zorge View Post
    I can't get the right perspective from the photo, but I suppose that the problem is current position of handlebar switches and brake cylinders, together with their levers. Try to rotate them a little in the direction like when you open throttle. After that is easy to adjust mirrors - loose 14 mm nuts, pull back mirror rods...

    Also, do not forget to spray some silicone lubricant inside the mirror joints. After that, they become... how to say... very adjustable in all directions, without fear that you'll break them during this adjustment process.

    About the mirrors: I have a couple of those, but they came in matte black. In fact, the mirrors itself are not bad at all - they are bifocal. The only problem were too short mirror rods - with them you could only see the reflection of your own elbows. I made a new, longer mirror rods, and the visibility of what is going on behind me, drastically improved.

    If you decide to make longer mirror rods, beside with their length, you can also experiment with the angle under which rod was bent, the height where the bend is, etc.
    That is almost the same as what one of my foreign mates did with his mirrors on his Jetmax. He removed them, bent the "rods" to give them more of an angle, then remounted them. That cured the problem where they gave a great view of his body (shoulders/elbows or other parts of his anatomy) to provide views behind him. I can't recall if used any heat on the rods or just put them in a bender (he has is own metals fabrication and manufacturing plant). As for the bottom of the tupperware on the handlebars, from what I see in the one photo, it looks as though the tupperware needs removal and then re-adjustment when refitting. It might be that the tupperware left the factory ok, but was knocked out of alignment somewhere along the supply chain. Pity the dealer didn't pick up on it, before you took delivery.
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  4. #14 Re: My blog of a Jetmax 250 
    C-Moto Senior WirralGhostHunter's Avatar
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    Rain stopped today, so I decided to investigate the handle bar problem. What a nice easy fix, removed the centre music control, and I was able to get a ring spanner in, five minutes later job sorted. Whoever put it together like this needs a good talking to. Perhaps the are imported partially assembled, in which case the dealer needs talking to. While I was about it, I thought I would have a go at sorting the water problem. It was now in both headlights and indicators, and because of the warmer weather the water was condensating inside, making the once crystal clear lenes opaque. Well this turned out a bit more of a job (I used bikerdocs post as a guide). Anyhow panels off. headlights off (here I noticed little sections covered with tabs of insulating tape, this looked like the culprits letting in the water as they were open to the inside of the lens. A few dolops of silicone sorted these out (only had white silicone - no one will see it behind there). Also one headlight bulb was just rattlingt about inside the lens. It turned out that the screw that holds the wire retainter wasn't seated, the hole was bigger than the screw, so I mixed up a tiny bit of epoxy to sort it out, now the lamp is secure.
    During disassembly I found that around eight clips (the ones the self tappers screw into) where missing, so were the screws. I remembered a small cardboard box under the seat had a plastic bag with bits inside, well it turned out to be the clips and self tappers... I fitted where they were needed and reassembled. Final job while I was under the scoot was to fit a charging socket, I wanted it external, so as to make it a quick job to put it on a trickle charge. I utilised the battery cover, and after a bit of flaffing got it sorted. Now the front doesnt squeak and groan anymore, all tight and ship shape. and connecting the charger a piece of cake. I'm leaving the scoot uncovered tonight (looks like rain) to see if the water ingress is sorted. Will keep you posted. Oh, I took a pillion out today, Jetmax pulled like a champ.
    Side view.jpgepoxy.jpgsilicone.jpgChrge point 1.jpgnaked.jpg
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  5. #15 Re: My blog of a Jetmax 250 
    foreign China moto dude bikerdoc's Avatar
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    I am scratching my head wondering why the headlight assembly had those holes? Mine has tape in those locations, but when I removed the tape there was no holes there. I seem to recall that there were however obvious imperfections at those locations which I assumed were related to the moulding process used. Could be wrong. I actually bought an extra set (pair) of headlights as I was going to experiment a bit with them and try and fit some LED's into the headlight just above the park lights. Never happened though as I worked out I'd break the seal of the headlights from the assembly and then be faced with a not too dissimilar as yourself with water and condensation.

    Just a word of caution with the bodywork (tupperware) screws and more importantly those self taping clips. If one doesn't use something like a pair of pliers or similar to squeeze/compress the clips, they'll easily vibrate out of position. Most of those that do vibrate out depending on - from where, can often be found collected on the inside of the lower tupperware underneath the frame and engine. Just a heads up on that.

    I've found that the battery doesn't like not being used for a week or more. So using a trickle charger is recommended for periods where the scoot is not used or otherwise laid up for 5+ days at a time.

    One other thing concerns starting. No need to use the throttle when starting these EFI bikes. When started one needs to let the engine get up to temperature or at least past the point where the auto choke has 'disengaged' before one switches the engine/scoot off. Doing so prematurely when the engine hasn't had enough time to warm up and the auto choke is still 'activated' plays havoc with the engine and EFI being caught between too richer versus lean condition. When one tries to restart the scoot after this occurring then a hard start situation MAY transpire where the bike engine turns over but won't start leading to a flooded condition and a strong aroma of gasoline. In this situation the best thing to do is WOT the throttle. In other words twist to full throttle when hitting the starter switch. Keep the throttle fully open and the engine should eventually catch/start. YMMV.
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  6. #16 Re: My blog of a Jetmax 250 
    C-Moto Senior WirralGhostHunter's Avatar
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    Well its seems the water is still getting into the headlight and indicator. Thought I had sorted them, but another stripdown to investigate is now on the cards
    The other side has no problems. Ah well, will report back here...............
    headlight.jpgindicator.jpg
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  7. #17 My Transmission Oil Change Woes 
    C-Moto Senior WirralGhostHunter's Avatar
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    Bad day today.
    I thought now that I have covered over a thousand miles, I would treat my scoot to a transmission oil change.
    Two bolts (filler & drain) got to be an easy job - Right? WRONG!
    The filler bolt unscrews easily enough, now that drain bung...........
    The damn thing fouls on the trans cover
    Time to look at the service manual.........
    Sure enough - got to remove the trans cover, how difficult can that be?
    OK, I remove all the perimeter bolts - COVER WONT COME AWAY
    I remove right plastic cover to see if there is something hidden - cant see anything.
    Next I remove the left plastic cover (three allen bolts)..
    Underneath is a plastic grille over a sponge filter held by two screws - I remove them.
    Hmmm... Looks like the circlip might need to come off, grrrrrr... not enough clearance because of the nut and washer (not shown in diagram)
    Well sure enough the nut wont unscrew, I need a way to lock it to stop it from spinning. I thought about pushing a thin extension from my socket set through one of the gaps to stop it rotating - I'd better not - knowing my luck I would break one of the fins.
    OK, dip into my wallet and rent an electric impact wrench to shift it.
    Nut comes away, next I remove the circlip - and you guessed it - COVER WONT COME AWAY
    So I replace everything to where it belongs and admit defeat.
    If someone wants to step up to the plate and tell me where I went wrong or give advice - PLEASE DO.
    Also I really need one of those Batman search lights - so I can get bikerdocs attention (Jetmax guru)
    My bad day ends

    cover.jpg
    Last edited by WirralGhostHunter; 07-20-2012 at 06:11 PM. Reason: Forgot diagram
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  8. #18 Re: My Transmission Oil Change Woes 
    Senior C-Moto Guru Zorge's Avatar
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    Easy job. Just roll scooter upside down adn drain oil through filler.




    Jokes aside. If the cover is so stubborn, try to suck oil out through filler with some thinly hose.
    Ask me nothing - I DO NOT speak english. Really...
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  9. #19 Re: My Transmission Oil Change Woes 
    C-Moto Senior WirralGhostHunter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zorge View Post
    Jokes aside. If the cover is so stubborn, try to suck oil out through filler with some thinly hose.
    Thanks for that Zorge - good idea - and I have one somewhere.

    Would still like to fathom out where I'm going wrong - the belt will need replacing at sometime
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  10. #20 Re: My blog of a Jetmax 250 
    foreign China moto dude bikerdoc's Avatar
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    Sorry was away and missed this one... based on the manual schematic I will refer to the numbers used...

    1. remove all the transmission cover bolts (items #9)
    2. remove the snap on/off rearward plastic cover with "CFMOTO" on it (item #21)
    3. remove the 3 bolts and lugs (items #1 and #2) that secure the forward plastic cover and remove (item #3)
    4. remove the plastic foam filter retainer screws (item #4)
    5. remove the plastic foam filter retainer (item #5)
    6. remove the foam filter element (item #6)
    7. DO NOT remove the cir-clip (item #7) or bearing set (item #8) as they are not needed to be removed to get either the transmission casing off or the variator pulley off.
    8. If you need to remove the variator pulley or rear pulley shaft nut(s) you will need an impact driver (either a electric or air powered one, as a manual impact driver will not work (e.g. the type that one strikes with a hammer)). I hasten to add that I've had the transmission casing off, 4-5 times, (have replaced the drive belt twice even though the belt being replaced looked clean without any cracking I thought it prudent to change them anyway. The only observable difference between the old and new belts was that the old belt was not as wide across the belt due to some wear.
    9. The transmission casing will not come away the first time freely without some assistance, which a rubber mallet will provide. Strike the casing all the way around its circumference and also several blows to the exterior surface. This should loosen the fit. If doing so provides a gap between the casing and the tranny proper where you can gain some purchase for leverage then use a suitable pry bar or such like to slowly pry the transmission casing away from the transmission housing taking any necessary precaution to minimise any damage to the alloy. Keep working at it, you'll get there. Once the casing has been removed the first time, every other time it is removed thereafter will be far less stressful.

    While you are in there it won't hurt to look at the variator and roller weights etc to check condition, and perhaps get a little acquainted with the assembly as the roller weights will need replacing at some point in the future. Keep in mind that the weights are something you can replace with after market rollers or sliders should you wish too. Also check that the ramp surfaces where the rollers roll or slide against are clean, as these will wear too, meaning a replacement of the variator which is co$tly. Going for after market sliders might be a better option, and being that you are in the UK there'll likely be lots of choices. You need to know the weight of the roller weights individually and the dimensions etc, so this would be a good time to make a note of that info.

    Hope this helps...
    Last edited by bikerdoc; 07-24-2012 at 05:06 AM.
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