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  1. #11  
    Administrator-tron CrazyCarl's Avatar
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    KM,

    No, it shouldn't really be doing that. Does it "sputter out" when you shift into gear or when you roll back the throttle? Does it cut out suddenly or just kind of slowly die?

    Also, what kind of choke system do you have?

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  2. #12  
    C-Moto Senior kingmarty45's Avatar
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    it does sputter out, and when i roll back the throttle, getting into gear is fine.

    It is a cable choke system, and I have it out when I start up.

    Do you think its running lean? Holes in the carb maybe? that would suck.
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  3. #13  
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    There are some endemic problems with a lot of Chinese bikes: Poor quality batteries is one of them. Yours should start OK on the electric foot. You may have one of those duff Chinese batteries or the terminals are not tight enough, creating a high resistance joint. Check those and also the terminal posts on the starter solenoid. This will be situated close to the battery, just follow the positive lead for a few inches and the solenoid will present itself. Watch that you don't short the spanner from the positive leads and terminals to the chassis, as lots of current will flow, as well as removing things like rings, etc from your hand. A short circuit from the terminals to the spanner and to a ring can result in serious finger damage, as well as a melted ring.

    Another problem which crops up all too regularly is the poor quality of Chinese spark plugs, although they usually only cause trouble by misfiring at high revs. Inspect yours, and if it's a silly make like "TORCH" or even with no makers name at all, replace with a Japanese NGK or ND type. With these you'll get peace of mind and long term reliability and consistent spark performance.

    Make sure the idling speed is set at makers recommendations. These can be surprisingly high and lots of riders and shops set it far too low. Cars usually idle at about 800 to 900 rpm, but on smaller bikes it can be as high as 1200-1300 rpm. Even my XV1100 idles at 950-1050 rpm.

    If this doesn't cure the pulling away problems it's time to tackle the inherenly weak carburation that makers still using carburation systems rather than injection have to use. This is to meet stringent emissions laws. Same thing happened in the 80's with carburetted cars.

    Try first to richen the idle mixture with the adjusting screw. If you have a normal slide-type carb, that is one with a large knurled ring on top where the cable enters, the screw has to be turned anti-clockwise to richen. Try 1/8 of a turn at the time. You can usually ascertain if the idle mixture is about right if, when warm, and in neutral, snapping the throttle open doesn't result in the engine gasping or even cutting out.

    The carb has two adjusting screws: the idle speed is the one in line with the vertical barrel section of the carb, it usually sticks out a bit and has a spring on it to stop it moving on its own. The mixture screw is recessed and is next to the air filter side of the carb body.

    If the idle or slow-running screw doesn't have the range of adjustment to correct the weak idle mixture, the idle or slow-running jet will have to be slightly enlarged.

    Before doing this you can try and raise the jet needle one or more notches by noting where the "C" clip is on the needle (should be on the middle slot or groove). Once again raise the needle by putting the clip one groove lower at the time. This mod sometimes gives miraculous results on low speed driveability and initial throttle response.
    Last edited by forchetto; 11-20-2008 at 01:52 PM.
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  4. #14  
    Administrator-tron CrazyCarl's Avatar
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    Sounds like first thing to check would be lean running condition which is, like Fosch said, normal to pass emissions standards.

    Another way to test if it's a lean-running problem is to see if it still does the same thing on half-choke. Can you pull away without stalling on half or full choke?

    The idle mixture screw on some model carbs is also often found underneath the carb near where the carb meet the engine. Different carbs have different designs though and the best way to tell would be to see a picture or some diagrams of your bikes carb unit.

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  5. #15  
    C-Moto Senior kingmarty45's Avatar
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    Thanks for your help guys, but I smoked my ankle playing footy yesterday, now I can barely walk let alone ride. So I will wait for the swelling to die down and see if I can figure out the problem.

    I will get back to you on this issue though, cheers.
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    Last edited by kingmarty45; 11-21-2008 at 08:28 AM. Reason: photographic evidence - at home on a friday night!
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  6. #16  
    Administrator-tron CrazyCarl's Avatar
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    Damn dude! Hope you get better. What'd you do to the top of your foot???

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  7. #17  
    C-Moto Senior kingmarty45's Avatar
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    I broke my ankle really badly playing footy in Jan 07, broke tibia and fibula and cracked off a quater of my tallus - 8 screws 2 plates and some wire in my leg for 18 months... So my foot has been pretty wrecked for a while, just started playing again a few weeks ago. I fell in a hole and rolled my ankle on thursday. Been ass down, leg up since then. I think I am retired now, stick to riding. It is safer than footy.
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  8. #18  
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    Quote Originally Posted by kingmarty45 View Post
    .. I fell in a hole and rolled my ankle on thursday. Been ass down, leg up since then. I think I am retired now, stick to riding. It is safer than footy.
    Your new bike looks great, and it sounds like the starting issue more than likely has to do with it set up from the factory to run lean - which is generally an easy fix, at least it was on my XT225.

    You on the other hand (at least what the photo shows of you!) don't look all that great, not with that bunged up foot. Sounds like it's definitely time to retire and hang up your boots for good! Either that or quit stepping in holes on the pitch..
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  9. #19  
    Administrator-tron CrazyCarl's Avatar
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    The other option is to stick with the footy but wear your motorcycle gear on the field!

    CC

    Quote Originally Posted by kingmarty45 View Post
    I broke my ankle really badly playing footy in Jan 07, broke tibia and fibula and cracked off a quater of my tallus - 8 screws 2 plates and some wire in my leg for 18 months... So my foot has been pretty wrecked for a while, just started playing again a few weeks ago. I fell in a hole and rolled my ankle on thursday. Been ass down, leg up since then. I think I am retired now, stick to riding. It is safer than footy.
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  10. #20  
    C-Moto Senior kingmarty45's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazyCarl View Post
    The other option is to stick with the footy but wear your motorcycle gear on the field!
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    That is a typical american response... always adding pads and a helmet to everything.
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