Steve's CFMoto 650 NK（春风 650 NK）

[Wald0]

Btw.. have you just tried to open TPS screw and move it little? if it is still one really long one and then one "long" ? you can move TPS just a little and test if it will turn it off.. then adjust it to position where EFI light will not come on. you don't even need to restart your bike just adjust and flip kill switch to "run" and check results.

then repeat again until you get right position.

I got new ECU and it seems now I cant reset my ECU as it will not "read" full throttle?? had to open TPS screw and twist it so it would not enable EFI light and let me reset ECU , then closed the screw again.

[Steve_Halt]

Wald0, I removed that out of curiosity, I guess - wanted to see the assembly and all. Besides, one of the running lights didn't work and I wondered what the reason was. As it turned out, the soldered wires running to it somehow unsoldered themselves... Very lazy engineering going on there.
I'll loosen the TPS' screw and move it around - will see if it works. Thanks for the tip!

P.S.: You gout some wicked police out there!

[stretchy]

Hi lads i bought my 650k about a year ago and have had a twin bros exhaust put on, tidy tail and bar end mirrors. I'm looking at how to un-restrict my bike and also how to put on some pod filters? if anyone has any info on how and where to buy aftermarket parts and power accessories from let me know. also what would happen in i put on bigger sprockets?


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[prince666]

what would happen if I put a bigger spocket on the back !!



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[bikerdoc]

Hi lads i bought my 650k about a year ago and have had a twin bros exhaust put on, tidy tail and bar end mirrors. I'm looking at how to un-restrict my bike and also how to put on some pod filters? if anyone has any info on how and where to buy aftermarket parts and power accessories from let me know. also what would happen in i put on bigger sprockets?

If you increase the size of the rear sprocket only you will increase the low/bottom end pick up but sacrifice the top end speed. If you increase the front sprocket only, you'll decrease bottom end pick up but increase top end speed. generally the manufacturer has worked out the optimum sprocket sizes factoring in tyre and rim sizes, gearing ratios (gearbox) etc.

[Wald0]

I did run my CF650 with 13t in the front, top speed was about 175km/h what was enough in here Vietnam, I did love it in the city as the acceleration was so much better but then on the big road RPM were little high so did not get so good fuel economy you could go for -1/+1 setup. you can check this webpage -> http://www.gearingcommander.com/
just choose the bike from the list as Kawasaki er6 2009 or so, it will tell you max speeds and much more


ou yeah! I did run my bike with pod filters, you get great intake sounds, but I think it did cost me some torque. It just did not act the way I wanted so in the end I went back to the original airbox.

so in my opinion with cones there are two benefits, sound and the space what you get when you remove the airbox.

[CFMOTO Brad]

I did run my CF650 with 13t in the front, top speed was about 175km/h what was enough in here Vietnam, I did love it in the city as the acceleration was so much better but then on the big road RPM were little high so did not get so good fuel economy you could go for -1/+1 setup. you can check this webpage -> http://www.gearingcommander.com/
just choose the bike from the list as Kawasaki er6 2009 or so, it will tell you max speeds and much more


ou yeah! I did run my bike with pod filters, you get great intake sounds, but I think it did cost me some torque. It just did not act the way I wanted so in the end I went back to the original airbox.

so in my opinion with cones there are two benefits, sound and the space what you get when you remove the airbox.

I agree Mate on the pod filters I lost torque also so I paid big bucks for the FMS and got it back big time. It had to go on the dyno though

[Rewi Alley]

I agree Mate on the pod filters I lost torque also so I paid big bucks for the FMS and got it back big time. It had to go on the dyno though

CORRECTION ON GEARING (regarding this):

"If you increase the size of the rear sprocket only you will increase the low/bottom end pick up but sacrifice the top end speed. If you increase the front sprocket only, you'll decrease bottom end pick up but increase top end speed. generally the manufacturer has worked out the optimum sprocket sizes factoring in tyre and rim sizes, gearing ratios (gearbox) etc."

FACT: Increasing the number of teeth on the rear sprocket or decreasing the number of teeth on the front sprocket has exactly the same effect, lower overall gearing - which means more engine rpm for any given road speed.

If the CFMOTO 650 has the same final drive gearing as the Kawasaki ER6n (15-tooth front/ 46 tooth rear), then the final drive gear ratio is 3.066 : 1. If you increase the rear sprocket to 48 teeth and leave the 15-tooth sprocket on the front, the ratio changes to 3.20 : 1. The higher the ratio, the lower the gearing.

If you leave the standard 46-tooth sprocket on the rear and switch to a 14-tooth front sprocket, the final ratio is 3.28 : 1. And if you used a 13-tooth front with the 46 tooth rear, the ratio would be 3.54 : 1

Now, does that 13-tooth sprocket you have also fit the Kawasaki ER6n ????

[Steve_Halt]

I think for the pod filters you need to have a dyne and a computer and a program to fine-tune ECU and TPS to work with new air intake. Why I won't do it is because of the climate over here - it gets wet, and when it does, water condenses inside the pod filters. That does influence performance big time.

[Steve_Halt]

I spent this winter riding my Benelli Silverblade and addressing the issues that came up in the process. One very important thing that happened this winter was my move from downtown Nanjing to a (cheaper) area uptown. This move yielded me a 10+ km morning commute. Today I did that on my CFMoto 650 NK.
You have to give it to the bike - it started alright, which I was not that sure the case would be. So off I went. My commute includes a relatively free road with few traffic lights, an intense inner-city main road, a few small narrow downtown roads and a parking lot. The bike is a gem on a free open road. It goes, it stops, it makes a nice sound with a stock exhaust and has a diesel-like pull. But that's where the problems start - technically, the speed limit is 60 km/h. I wouldn't want to do more in China anyways. Yet the bike is capable of that in the first gear. So as soon as you're in that juicy rev range, you need to stop yourself from overdoing that. The bike has a lot of potential that is nowhere to realize. I mean, why have 6 gears when two seem to be more than enough?
Next is the inner-city main road: lots of cars, a couple of tunnels, the average speed is about 60-80 km/h. Did I say lots of cars? Well, after negotiating that on a scooter, the big bike feels like a death wish. Reasons: seating position and the character of the bike itself. As to the seating position, it's pretty classic with a slight lean forward and footpegs set a bit rearward. It's great for looking forward and checking the mirrors. As soon as you start actually turning your head to assess the chaos around, it gets real painful real fast. Say, try to raise your head, aha, and now look left - doesn't feel comfortable, does it? That's one.
Another one is the bike itself. It is ROUGH. All caps rough. Nothing wrong with that, and that is probably pretty enjoyable on the track, but city is a different story. Roll-on, pull in the clutch and shift into a lower gear (or a higher one), open the throttle a bit. This is what we do instinctively, and this is what results in a significant "jump" on a 650 NK. Clutch action, fueling, acceleration, deceleration - it is all rough and over-aggressive. I found myself riding with clutch half pulled-in most of the time and keeping a longer distance with the cars ahead just so. It's not a mechanical problem, it's just the way the bike is - aggressive and rough. I would be happy top say I love it that way, yet the truth is - I don't. It requires additional effort from me to take the bike's character into consideration, and I don't think I want it. A 4-cylinder engine is pretty smooth in power delivery, a lower-capacity engine (125 - 250 cc) lacks the guts to intimidate the rider. Now this one is different. Now I understand those people who were willing to buy my bike and would return in to me after a test ride saying something like "too scary!" It scares me not, but that's the feeling the bike may very well invoke. Anyways, I digress.
Narrow city roads, lots of traffic lights, crazy mamas in their Hondas taking their overweight kids to their school and all that. Not comfortable. Zero storage option (NK stands for "naked" after all) means that I have to wear my backpack when riding. That's about 10 kg of stuff. Acceleration / deceleration mean another 10 kg pulling you back or pressing you against the handlebars. That's not a complaint, it's just something you need to be prepared for when using the bike as a city commuter. I installed a set of throw-over bags before, they didn't really look or work well. And the top box wasn't a permanent storage solution either. Anyways, start-stop traffic is bad - the bike is pretty difficult to maneuver at low speeds (it's a heavy 650) and it gets pretty hot real fast. So in summer when the temperature is well above 30 degrees Centigrade, well...
Parking lot now. After about 3 years of owning the bike, the side stand still feels like it's not where it should be. Takes some time to find it - instincts tell you it should be someplace else. Oh yeah, and it's hard to maneuver around as well.
That's a bag of mixed feelings here. On the one hand, the bike is mechanically sound and rides OK. On the other hand it's not a city commuter at all. I would be happy to take it around some place where there aren't so many cars and the weather is cool and the roads are great (read "not China"), but I hate riding it in slow dense dangerous traffic. It's just not the right tool for the job.
The conclusion that comes out of it is: I want to sell the bike and either plate my scooter or buy a legal 250. The problems here are: the license plates price is growing by the minute, and me selling the bike at, say, 40K, won't even buy me the plates half a year later; and then there's no choice. I mean, there's GW 250 and a facelifted YBR 250 that goes by some fancy new index, and that's about it. I would like either something with a retro vibe, like an ST250 or something endure-like, WR250 for example, but there's nothing like that in China. That's really putting me off of selling the bike now.
Decisions-decisions...