break pads

[euphonius]

I do hope you guys can get together over beers and bury the hatchet. No one wants to read this stuff.

Cheers
Euphonius

[bikerdoc]

When you manage to work out how to get the calliper off and then remove the pads, be aware that there might some small thin metal pressed items that act as either pressure plates or friction plates that fit around the brake pads at different points. Some motorcycles have them and some don't. It is better to see such pressed metal items before one inadvertently tips the callipers over and discovers the pieces as they fall out, then one has to work out where they fit and how they are orientated. Another little trick is when it is time to force the actual calliper pistons apart to fit the new pads - first get a rag or similar, clean the exterior of the master cylinder reservoir first then place the rag around or near the base of the brake master cylinder reservoir for the brake one is working on. With the rag in place, having made sure to clean top cover and the outside of the master cylinder reservoir, either loosen or remove the reservoir lid. Carefully remove the dust boot/cover under the lid. Once you have broken any vacuum seal that may exist, you can either refit the dust boot/cover or leave it off. MAKE SURE NOT TO USE THE BRAKE WHILE THE LID IS OFF THE RESERVOIR, or you'll increase the chances of introducing air into the brake system/lines and have to bleed them. At this stage, now, one will find it much easier to force the calliper pistons back into the calliper and fit the new pads. Once that is completed, reattach the master cylinder reservoir lid and tighten. Now one can go about the reassembly of the brake calliper to the wheel and brake rotor. Once the brake calliper is reattached against the faces of the brake rotor, (and the brake master cylinder lid is securely fastened) one needs to pump the brakes several times so the brake pads bind against the brake rotor. If the wheel, one is working on is off the ground/floor, spin the wheel (whatever method) and apply the appropriate brake to make sure of its operation. Some might advise bleeding the brake, but it's not necessary if no air has been introduced into the brake system. This is an appropriate time to check the brake fluid level too.

[codewahn]

in the end i had to do it with the caliper on the bike wouldn't be able to take it off without taking the wheel off so i just removed one of the slider pins and tilted the caliper over and took the pad retaining bolts out it was a pit of a pain to get the new ones in but got there in the end and it was a harder job than it should have been the guy who designed it must have been drunk or trolling,.

[prince666]

I do hope you guys can get together over beers and bury the hatchet. No one wants to read this stuff.

Cheers
Euphonius

Dear Euphonkus

you need to speak to TA racing i dont like being called names because i post someting he dont like all i done was trying to help and be friendly you need to read other post from TA on here and you will see sometimes the post is not helpfull or friendly to which MCM is not all about he dont know me and dont have he right to say things which he has done and beleave me the only hatchet i will be burying will be in his fuck head if i meet him as i said TA is his new name TOTAL ASSHOLE ??? he need to start with a open sorry on herer that could help

[Rob1n]

in the end i had to do it with the caliper on the bike wouldn't be able to take it off without taking the wheel off so i just removed one of the slider pins and tilted the caliper over and took the pad retaining bolts out it was a pit of a pain to get the new ones in but got there in the end and it was a harder job than it should have been the guy who designed it must have been drunk or trolling,.

Yes, just done this job myself, very frustrating, removed the big black rubber plug on the right as you look at the brake, then with the small spanner supplied in the tool kit, unbolted the rear sliding bolt on left as you look at the brake, disconnected the brake hose as well, I found it the only way to get the calliper in a position to change the pads!

Got there in the end, but, to mount it back again, the Allen bolt on the right was no problem, the one on the left actually screws into the calliper mounting bracket, I had to lever that in and then spanner that back into the mounting bracket - the whole job is far too difficult, shouldn't be so hard, I don't know if there is a better way or not, the Haynes manual has no explanation at all, there is no advice anywhere that I can see.

It might be easier if the wheel is removed first and then the calliper mounting bracket and so on, it really shouldn't be that difficulty and. I'm sure there must be a better way, just be aware that if you want to change your rear brake pads, leave plenty of time and have the tools you need handy, I think the main Allen bolt is 6 or 7mm the bolt on the left. I think is 8mm.

One other thing I did notice was that all the sliding pins were dry and /or rusted corroded, my bike is only 5 months old and it looks like nobody at the shop where it was built bothered to lube any of the pins, all dry, so get some copper grease and clean everything up and grease it.

[NZBrakelathes]

No no not copper grease! I'm brakeman from NZ!

[Rob1n]

NzBrakelathes, why not copper grease?

All seems to be working ok, do you know what the best/ easiest method is for replacing the brake pads without taking half the back end apart?

Cheers.

[NZBrakelathes]

Copper coat is petroleum based and it reacts to rubber causing it to swell in time and semi seize or not able to retract back
It needs high temp silicon based grease
Can't tell you where to get it in china etc
Brembo has it
I use it in NZ for brake pins as the factory should as well
As for changing pads it's little complex but unbolt the caliper
Remove the cradle clean slides
Fit the cradle back and fit pads
Yeah little hard to explain a it's fiddle on a bike and each caliper little different

[humanbeing]

...It needs high temp silicon based grease...

Laser printer repair guys stocks it. They're using it on fuser unit.

The proper product:
http://s.taobao.com/search?spm=a230r...3A1#J_relative

[Rob1n]

NZBrakelathes/human being,

Thanks Guys, most helpful.

Robin.