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#41 Re: Bikerdocs' 650TR (CF650-2) review
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09-23-2013, 06:12 AMBTW this is the Bandit I px'd
This pic is when it was new though in 2009
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#42 Re: Bikerdocs' 650TR (CF650-2) review10-16-2013, 04:23 AM
2014 CF650NK and 650TR press release...
A few noticeable differences...
- continental tyres as standard
- tall screen for the TR
- redesigned dash seemingly including all the "should have included items I complained about in my review" clock, trip-meter etc.
- LEDs driving lights/indicator 'integrated' in the mirror pods
- Power/recharging plug for devices
- Altered brakes which MIGHT mean either linked brakes or ABS (unsure because the words used don't really detail enough about this feature).
- Front brakes using four piston callipers
- altered riding position which might mean redesigned handle bars
- 140mm/14cm ground clearance
- Dual headlight bulbs upgraded to dual 55w Halogen bulbs not 35w.
- KYB shock with adjustment
Pricing for the new bikes inside PRC have not been determined as of today (2013 Sept 16).Last edited by bikerdoc; 10-16-2013 at 07:07 AM.
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#43 Re: Bikerdocs' 650TR (CF650-2) review10-16-2013, 05:30 AM
I do see from the pictures the bike still leans over to far ! but a good step forwards did you find out the RRP. For the new 2014
"Arguing on the Internet is like running in the Special Olympics, even if you win you're still retarded"
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#44 Re: Bikerdocs' 650TR (CF650-2) review
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#45 Re: Bikerdocs' 650TR (CF650-2) review10-16-2013, 06:50 AM140cm ground clearance
"Arguing on the Internet is like running in the Special Olympics, even if you win you're still retarded"
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#46 Re: Bikerdocs' 650TR (CF650-2) review
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#47 Re: Bikerdocs' 650TR (CF650-2) review10-16-2013, 07:09 AMHmmm seems as though I may consider upgrading to the 2014 model of the changes are significant and price has not been impacted. ..
Hi 650TR Rider
Lets look at the new parts
1. Tyres... will fit better one when th OE are done for.
2. Taller screen got 1 on order ..
3. new dash ... fitted a clock looks ok would be nice to have the trip-meter
4. LED fitted better ones allready
5.power plug done and fitted
6. Doc not sure about if ABS could be nice to have
7. with the brakes i find them ok
8.Altered riding position which might mean redesigned handle bars need to find out more about this i think it could be just a spacers under the OE bars if so will be cheap to do
9.140mm same as the 2012 TR
10. Fitted HID which are better than 55w Halogen bulbs
11 KYB shocks i am sure the 2013 TR comes with KYB shocks
In fact it is a stable bike in almost all scenarios and cruises happily at and above motorway speeds without any weaves or wobbles. Although almost all this 650 twin is made is China, the suspension is not. It’s quality German KYB kit, from Dsseldorf and it shows
so all the new mods for the 2014 TR most can be done with your 2013 TR at a small cost that my 2 cents"Arguing on the Internet is like running in the Special Olympics, even if you win you're still retarded"
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#48 Re: Bikerdocs' 650TR (CF650-2) review11-10-2013, 01:37 AM
Update.
Have had to replace the clutch cable due to the original one breaking down near the clutch housing arm linkage mechanism. Was riding along having just exited one of my favourite mountains. Stopped at a cross road intersection, turned right to make my way towards DongQian Lake, whilst 'changing up' and as I let the clutch lever out I felt a little give in the lever, not much but enough to know "this 'aint normal". Kept riding while at the same time, engaging and releasing the clutch lever multiple times. Each time less resistance was felt in the lever, and twisting the throttle only bought about an increase in forward momentum. Sure enough clutch cable had snapped. Found that the cable was still attached at the handlebar/lever end, so it was snapped some-place else along its length.
Rode the other 40km home, mainly through mountains so the need for clutch use was minimal and changing gears without a clutch is easy. This 'aint my first rodeo.
Fortunately getting to my residence was pretty easy, as I live in a small town (would have been a hassle in the big smoke e.g. SH, BJ, SZ etc.). With only half-a-dozen sets of traffic lights, I selected a route that would put me in a position where I could approach traffic lights slowly or as needed make free right turns, followed by a U-turn then another right turn, depending on the signal phases. Only one set of traffic lights scuttled my plans, meaning I had to stop, as it's a major arterial roadway/highway so phases are long and drawn out and with a major median strip, not possible to make a free right turn followed by a U-turn etc. No worries, hit the kill switch as I came to a stop, selected neutral, got off the TR, pushed across on the pedestrian crossing. Good thing it was night, so I didn't look like a complete oddity. Once on the other-side of the intersection, turned ignition on, ran alongside the bike, got up to a fair speed, jumped on the seat, crashed into gear and rode off. A minute later, I was back at home pulling up outside my garage. Put bike away.
Ironically, another MCM member (Prince666) had just had his TR clutch cable snap a few days prior. We had chatted about it at the time. Both bikes have done around 5000km and as it transpires, both clutch cables have snapped at the same location.
Had already ordered new cables, as at the time only one clutch cable was needed for Prince666. At the time my cable was still good, but I'd ordered two cables, just in case. Luckily as it turns out.
Called my CFMoto contact, Mr Lan, who is very interested to receive both cables, which I will be forwarding to him tomorrow (Monday).
Spent time yesterday fitting the new replacement clutch cable. Removed the RHS midsection fairing (tupperware), RHS fake frame cover and other associated bits and pieces. Had to remove and un-clip several metal and plastic retaining clips too. The plastic one's need a little bit of finesse to get undone. With cable released and free to move, disconnected from the lever, it was time to consider removal, but not before...
Connecting the old cable to the replacement, using tape (duct or insulation tape) securely applying tape to the top end of the replacement cable to the bottom end of the old cable, and making sure both were secure, slowly pulled the cables through. Once new cable was in place, removed the tape holding the two cables together. Checked the routing and lay of the cable etc.
Set about connecting the cable down at the clutch housing arm linkage end first. Removed the little cylindrical nipple and the small 5-10mm section of wire (cable had snapped around 5-10mm up from lower nipple) from the clutch housing arm linkage, then inserted the new cable end, then connected the handlebar/clutch lever end. Checked and adjusted for operation. Reattached the clips and what have you.
Checked clutch operation and adjusted cable. Felt a whole lot better in operation, very smooth and not nearly as notchy.
A couple of observations. The old cable and new cable look to be the same design. No perceivable differences. The operation of the clutch had become increasingly more notchy when attempting to find neutral while at a stand still with engine running. This was something I and the other MCM member had discussed as both of us had noted this. The location where both cables have snapped is about the same location. My cable did not show any evidence of fraying, the snap seemed very clean.
Will be interesting to see what comes back from CFMoto on this one.
As a side note, Buck & Amy from the Great Ride of China (note the comments section) have covered ~25,000km without any clutch cable issues.
Photos to come...Last edited by bikerdoc; 11-10-2013 at 08:58 AM.
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#49 Re: Bikerdocs' 650TR (CF650-2) review11-10-2013, 07:05 AM
Hi Doc
Just fitted my clutch cable and like you i have found the gears are a lot smoother and can find "N" first time now, but i can't see why or how the new cable looks the same as the old one. just hope it last longer, time will tell."Arguing on the Internet is like running in the Special Olympics, even if you win you're still retarded"
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#50 Re: Bikerdocs' 650TR (CF650-2) review
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11-10-2013, 07:13 AMJust thought. Maybe they have changed the quality of the steel the cable is made from... could be previous quality stretched as lever was pulled thereby not fully engaging the clutch mechanism? Which may have caused metal fatigue and the cable to eventually fail?
They may have changed the cable composition in later models.
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