Clutch lever requires a lot of force to pull in

**spencer2004** · 08-26-2013, 05:24 PM

On my bike the clutch lever has always been quite hard to pull in and although it dosen't really affect my clutch control it does give me a pretty tired left hand sometimes. It isn't anything to do with the cable or lever as they move freely when the clutch cable is dissconnected from the engine so it must be something inside the engine.

Does everyone with the K157FMI engine have the same problem just due to a poor design or something and also is it possible to replace the clutch springs with softer ones to solve the issue or would that cause issues with clutch slippage?

Edit: sorry I was supposed to put this under maintenance.

Another problem I have with the clutch is when the engine is cold the bike tries to move foward a tiny bit when I first put it in to gear and I have to rev it a bit before I kick it in to gear or the engine usually stalls but once it is in gear it will be fine for the rest of the day. This happens every time without fail and is worse in the winter when the engine is really cold.

**Wald0** · 08-27-2013, 10:18 AM

Originally Posted by spencer2004

On my bike the clutch lever has always been quite hard to pull in and although it dosen't really affect my clutch control it does give me a pretty tired left hand sometimes. It isn't anything to do with the cable or lever as they move freely when the clutch cable is dissconnected from the engine so it must be something inside the engine.

Does everyone with the K157FMI engine have the same problem just due to a poor design or something and also is it possible to replace the clutch springs with softer ones to solve the issue or would that cause issues with clutch slippage?

Edit: sorry I was supposed to put this under maintenance.

Another problem I have with the clutch is when the engine is cold the bike tries to move foward a tiny bit when I first put it in to gear and I have to rev it a bit before I kick it in to gear or the engine usually stalls but once it is in gear it will be fine for the rest of the day. This happens every time without fail and is worse in the winter when the engine is really cold.

Well even if cable feel to move freely there can be internal damage what causes it to bind when under load, that is what i had in my Yamaha. I removed cable from clutch and it worked perfectly! did not feel anything with cable and even lubed it, but problem was still there, very still clutch lever so i decided to buy new cable and and it was really light after that.

**spencer2004** · 08-27-2013, 11:00 AM

Ok I'll try that, thanks!

**Lao Jia Hou** · 08-27-2013, 11:13 AM

I agree with Wald0. It is commonly the cable. Not always, but usually.

It is true that when a damaged cable is disconnected, it appears to work fine. One common problem is with cable length and routing. Any tight bends, twists, stretches can cause binding. Do you have the original cables & levers, or are they aftermarket parts? Have you added handlebar risers? It is important to make sure the cable is the correct length.

One other "test" you can do is to check the resistance of movement at the clutch cam arm at the engine (with the cable disconnected, can you move the "lever" at the engine side?)

The second problem appears to be your plates sticking, at rest. I assume your bike has a wet clutch? Several possibilities there, but it is unlikely related to your fist.

**spencer2004** · 08-27-2013, 11:27 AM

Everything in the clutch department is OEM and mostly untouched, I have lubed the cable and the lever pivot a couple of times but it only makes a slight difference. I think I have tried to move the clutch arm with the cable dissconnected before and I remember it being hard to move it by hand.

**Lao Jia Hou** · 08-27-2013, 11:46 AM

If possible, maybe you have access to a similar bike (without the same problem) and can see if the resistance-to-movement at the engine side is similar to your bike? It will be stiff, but not impossible.

If your bike is noticeably more difficult then it becomes more complicated, and difficult to diagnose from afar. You will need to get inside. First, of course, will be to check the internal linkages for wear and/or proper adjustment. But this is a complete shot in the dark, without being there. Clutches are actually quite simple, but you'd probably need at least one special tool (easily improvised) to pull things apart. Do you have the shop manual?

Still, I'd give the cable a very good lubrication (and probably replace it - and then fully lube the new one), just to be sure. When you lube it, make sure lubrication comes out the other end. In my experience, you have to really drench these suckers.

**spencer2004** · 08-27-2013, 11:50 AM

I'd probably leave it if it means ripping the engine apart as I'm not that bothered but I will get a good quality cable when I get some spare monies and give it a good lube before I fit it.

Thanks for your help.

**braillce** · 11-25-2013, 10:06 AM

Originally Posted by spencer2004

[...] Another problem I have with the clutch is when the engine is cold the bike tries to move foward a tiny bit when I first put it in to gear and I have to rev it a bit before I kick it in to gear or the engine usually stalls but once it is in gear it will be fine for the rest of the day. This happens every time without fail and is worse in the winter when the engine is really cold.

I have the same pb with my Chinese bike since day one (DD250G).

Changed clutch and gearing sometime ago, but the pb remained, still.

I deal with it either or by:

1) running the engine a while on neutral before to pass 1st gear, still may have the weird effect but much softer and won't kill the engine.

2) before to start the engine, engaging 1st gear, pulling on clutch lever, which should free the bike to roll, but it doesn't because of this pb, and then pushing (gently & slowly) the bike forward and backwards till the resistance "breaks".

I can then start the engine and pass 1st gear without the harsh "clack" noise and forward push and eventual engine kill that happens otherwise.

Usually I warm the engine a bit, then kill it, then break the resistance in 1st gear, easier when warm, then pull the clutch lever, start the engine again, and go.

Chinese bikes man.

- - -

For the cable I had that too, just change it, and then make sure u spray a ton of WD40 in the new cable opening as soon as it becomes a bit harder to pull.... Not doing it destroyed my 1st cable.

Peace.