Thread: Yunnan 2005
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#1 Yunnan 200502-07-2009, 05:03 AM
In another thread I agreed to CC's request to post about a Yunnan trip we made in 2005. After reviewing over 3000 (!) pics, reducing the amount to 1000 and uploading 300+, I am finally here with report.
Foreword
We didn't have too much time to spend and our ladies also said the a week on the bike would be enough for them, so we decided on shipping (truckin') the bikes from the Beijing BMW bike importer to the Kunming BMW car dealer and back, hop on the bikes in Kunming and do a western Yunnan loop ride.
Participants
Herbert from Germany with his Korean wife SohyunHerbert was chief rep of BMW motorcycle at that timeClaudio from Italy and his girlfriend Echo from Kunming (China)
Bike: R1150GS A
Claudio owns and runs two Italian restaurants in Beijing and one in ChengduAndy (me) from Austria with my wife Helen from Baoshan (China)
Bike: R1200GS
Working for Siemens Industry GroupContents
Bike: R1150GS A
Shipping Preparations
Kunming
Kunming - Dali
Dali - Baoshan
Baoshan - Liuku
Liuku - Pianma - Liuku
Liuku - Lijiang
Lijiang
Lijiang - Dali
Dali - Kunming
AndyLast edited by chinabiker; 02-08-2009 at 06:20 AM.
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#2 Shipping Preparations02-07-2009, 05:24 AM
A good week before we left, we crated the bikes and shipped them out to Kunming. We got two big original bike boxes but three bikes, so we had to make one extra on the spot.
The two original boxes
Windscreen and mirrors removed and bike strapped down
Windscreen packed up to avoid scratches
The first two bikes are in the boxes
Material arrives for the third box to be made and ...
... work started immediately.
The base of the box was done pretty fast and ...
... Claudio's bike pretty quick stood on it.
Installing side walls.
Cover closed
Job done so far, the truck to pick up the bikes was supposed to arrive on that evening. It will take 8 days for the truck to arrive Kunming.
Andy
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#3 Kunming02-07-2009, 06:15 AM
At noon on September 2nd, 2005 Sohyun, Herbert and me flew from Beijing to Kunming. Helen, my wife, was already there for a week to visit her family and Claudio with his girl friend followed in the evening.
Herbert, Sohyun, Andy flying to Kunming
Approaching Kunming
The clever marketing girl from the BMW dealer in Kunming arranged some 7 series BMW limos to pick us up, handed us flowers and also brought some photographers and TV guys along.
Our boxes - unharmed
Unpacking
Photographers, TV guys and the ever present BMW marketing girl
A bit of show in the dealer's car park.
Re-assembly
After we'd finished all three bikes we filled up and transferred them to the hotel, waiting for my wife, Claudio and his girl friend.
We had a late dinner together after they finally arrived, and were pretty excited about the days to come
Andy
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#4 Day 1: Kunming - Dali02-07-2009, 07:06 AM
The first riding day started with another surprise provided by the marketing girl ;-)
They have asked us to stop by their shop in the morning and someone would lead us out of the mayhem of Kunming. But she had changed her mind over night and more reporters, TV and radio station staff showed up. We had to give some interviews before we were finally released.
Andy at the interview
Herbert's turn
Finally on the way
Refused on the expressway 1
The first 100 kms were quite boring and it was only after lunch when the scenery became nicer and traffic less.
Along a river
Roads aren't too bad
I panicked a bit in this tunnel, as it is very narrow and makes a sharp turn. When you enter it with your sunglasses on, you cannot see anything! Although we were pretty slow, it seemed to take minutes before I got my damned sunglasses off.
Side valley
About half way into the day's stage, I had to break very hard behind a truck with no brake lights and hardly came to a stop about two meters from the trucks rear.
Claudio, who was a bit horny , decided to take me from behind. He hit my left pannier, I fell to the right but luckily without major consequences.
Only problem was that the left pannier holder broke and we had to fix the bag on top of the top case.
Following the rail line to Dali
A short break
Reaching higher altitudes
Mountain lake
It's green everywhere
That must be why it's called Yunnan (Yun = cloud; Nan = South)
Shortly before we arrived in Dali, I had another moment of increased heart rate, when I slipped with front and rear simultaneously but managed to stay up
Bikes in the hotel lobby
Due to our delayed departure it was already dark when we arrived old town Dali. The hotel manager allowed us to park the bikes in the lobby.
Andy
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#5 Day 2: Dali - Baoshan02-07-2009, 11:50 AM
Needless to say that we were a major attraction in old town Dali.
Preparing to leave from Dali old town.
In this picture you can see the side case attached to the top of the top case
We were on the country road, actually not too bad in this area - expressway on the left.
Roadside family life
Still on nice roads
Cobblestone road
The quite o.k. road turned into a cobblestone nightmare with trucks, trucks, trucks, their dust and exhaust.
We were a bit tired of all this and after a while and attempted to enter the expressway.
Refused on the expressway 2 - YOU ARE NOT GOING!
We couldn't enter the expressway here ...
... neither could we there. See that all bolts are missing already!
Finally we found an open spot to enter, wide enough for a truck and on we were.
We made good progress on the expressway - literally no traffic.
Claudio decided to stop - unfortunately ...
... and here they were
What followed was a good while of discussions, phone calls and negotiations. The cops were very friendly and explained that it was really dangerous for bikes to ride on that busy expressway They decided that we had to leave the expressway by turning back to the previous exit, what we refused, of course, since riding down the wrong side of such a busy road was too dangerous, we felt. Another round of phone calls was made. Finally they said we had to follow them to next exit, when one of the cops suggested that this was too far away from the country road and agreed that we will exit on the next but one, over 70kms away
Following the police car at 80 kph
This where we had to leave the expressway.
Cops were talking to the toll gate guys, we were released and wished well - no fine - no toll; Thanks !
We made a brief stop right after the exit, at the Lan Can Jiang - The Mekong.
Mekong 2
Mekong 3
We were on ever present cobblestone again after a few kms, climbing up steadily.
Cobblestone again.
On the descent towards Baoshan, we noticed that the whole area's South slopes are graveyards - tombs wherever you look.
Tombs
We reached the outskirts of Baoshan city in the early afternoon and paid a short visit to my wifes family.
A ride for the local kids
My left handed pannier holder still needed repair, so we went to my wife's cousin, who owns a small motorbike repair shop to fix the support. After 2 hours of cutting, welding, grinding and painting, the pannier sat in it's place again. What a relief. Thank you, Xiao Dong!
Cutting
Final painting
Job done.
We went for a nice Yunnan style dinner and a bunch of cold beers afterwards.
Andy
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#6 Day 3: Baoshan - Liuku02-07-2009, 01:11 PM
After a not so nice breakfast in a dirty hotel "restaurant" in the actually pretty good hotel, we were on the way again, but not before a good bye visit to Xiao Dong, the pannier support repair man.
Goodbye to the repair man
We left Baoshan towards Ruili, a border city with Myanmar. Roads were quite busy, full with trucks, tractors and other shitty vehicles. Remember, we were not allowed on the expressway and didn't want to bother our luck again. After almost 2 hours in this mess, we decided not to go to Ruili but to turn north into the Nu Jiang valley.
Busy roads near Baoshan city
The two guys showed us a shortcut into Nu Jiang valley - Nu Jiang in the background.
Bridge across Nu Jiang
Thanks guys, you saved us 60km of busy roads.
The first kms in Nu Jiang valley
Not long after, we have been checked for the first time. Not a big surprise since this area is bordering Myanmar.
First check point
They have been mostly interested in our passports and bike data (how much, how fast, how heavy and how much fuel goes into the tank), and after a few minutes we were on our way again.
Pleasant riding
Riding into the upper Nu Jiang valley
Really fun riding there
We came through a lager village where the market was really busy. It quite a while to pass through.
Market on the main street
Everything available
Spices dealer
Lingerie
On a free road again
Different kind of traffic ...
... open spaces and ...
... coffee beans around our lunch place.
The restaurant we had lunch.
We moved on towards Liuku after lunch in the same green scenery as we did before.
Why not have nap on the road?
A little detour to the river
Harvest season
Another, very relaxed checkpoint and ...
... a very relaxed Herbert
Another detour across a suspension bridge and back.
The valley gets much narrower from here. We had only about 30 kms left to reach Liuku and we took it really easy from now. Maybe a bit too easy ...
To avoid eating each others dust on the now dirt road, we kept some distance between each other. Claudio was quite ahead already, me in second and Herbert last. When I stopped to take a picture, the phone rang - it was Sohyun telling me that they had an accident. We turned bach immediately and found the following.
The tricycle driver just cut into Herbert's straight path, by turning left
When I passed this spot minutes before Herbert did, there was nobody to be seen. When we came back there there must have been a hundred people or more.
Herbert ...
... and his opponent's foot.
Cops showed up pretty quick and handled the case quite professional.
Sohyun was actually uninjured, but Herbert's wound was stitched on the spot by the local village doctor. The other guy was taken to the hospital and we never heard anything about his condition.
The cops arranged a pick up truck to bring the bike, which was not rideable anymore, to the hotel in Liuku.
We reached the hotel in Liuku after only 20 minutes, where the cops continued collecting data and interviewing Herbert. It turned out that the tricycle driver was completely drunk, without license and the vehicle unregistered. They requested Sohyun and Herbert to see the local hospital the next day.
After a shower we went out for a nice dinner and some beer after it. The two could smile a bit already and insisted on the rest of us continuing our trip as planned.
Andy
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#7 Day 6: Lijiang02-08-2009, 04:54 AM
We decided to stay off the bikes for a day and pay a visit to the Yak meadow some 40 kms away.
View into the courtyard of our guest house
Courtyard 2
Courtyard entrance
Old town road
On the way to Yak meadow
I almost regretted the bike off day
Up with the chair lift
Another view that made me feel sorry of the bike parking in Lijiang
Edelweiss
Local sna(c)k(e)s
Yak
We took a walk around the large meadow - it looks like in the European alps
The team
Fresh water from the glacier
This water was really chilly
Lijiang landmark
Typical Lijiang street
Lijiang is quite good to hang out for a day or two, a little touristy though.
Andy
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#8 Day 7: Lijiang - Dali02-08-2009, 05:49 AM
We knew we wouldn't make it to Kunming from Lijiang in one day without rushing, so we decided to take a short riding day to Dali,
have a relaxed afternoon there and return to Kunming the next day.
We had a very nice European style breakfast in Don Papa Pizza, owned by Alexandre, a French guy.
Don Papa Pizza
Once again - attraction of the day
On the way to Dali
Good road - low traffic
A little break in the sun
Dirt detour
Northern shore of Erhai lake
Old town Dali in sight
We reached old town Dali around noon, had a short lunch and went to the lake to hire a boat for a little cruise.
We got one of these for the four of us
Not long after we left the the jetty, some had a good sleep
Echo
Claudio
Andy
View from Erhai
Cormorants
Fisherman repairing his net
After the boat trip Claudio and I went out to refuel and to see if there is a spot where we could enter the expressway. We found one on construction site for a new expressway service station, which we decided to take the next morning. After a nice shower, we just walked through the streets of old town Dali to eat some snacks here and there instead of sitting in a restaurant.
Snacks
Lobby parking of course
Andy
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- Join Date
- Nov 2008
- Posts
- 5
02-27-2009, 10:18 AMHi Andy,
nice pics, but we should ride again to bring new updates in.
Free Rider
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03-17-2009, 02:00 PM
Hi Andy,
Great ride reports of Yunnan. I just came back from a ride to Loping, Yuanyang, Mengla, Boten(Laos), Jinghong, Lijiang, Dali and Yuxi. Want to do another trip to the Nu Jiang Valley. Can you e-mail me the GPS tracks from your Garmin? It might help me to find my way around. Thanks.
Regards,
Franki
yansermc@yahoo.com
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