Great trip and great report. Nice tip about the bike size on the train btw.

With regards to changing oil, I just buy the oil at a bike shop ( Castrol 15/40 if I can get it) and let the guy change it. They just charge for the oil so why get your hands dirty I reckon. I do keep an eye on the guys tools though and if he starts to approach with a 12" crescent I get out my own socket.

Nice ride and glad to see the heatstroke episode ended well.