CIMG1158.jpg
The barbecue stalls around the square in Guazhou


CIMG1159.jpg
I had donkey for dinner!

5th

Left 8.30 and immediately fucked up by not getting back on the gaosu, I wasted 40 minutes on a shitty dirt road then did a Uy. I did 400 very dull kilometres and came off at Kumel to follow some advice from Craig and Milton. The first kilometre of the dirt road they recommended was completetly mental and I thought they may have been messing around with me. It did improve however and the scenery was fantastic. There were a few small water obstacles which I enjoyed and then I bumped into a goatherder who was also riding a yingang. We had a chat and took some photos before I continued up to the top of the mountain where I came face to face with snow for the first time of this trip. There was a weird brand new looking temple at the top and an amazing view over the endless grasslands below. Then I dropped the bike while messing around in a snow drift, and this time I got it on video! I quickly completed the 70 kms to Barkol, found a hotel and was surprised by the quick check in. After a shower I wanted to go out for dinner and beer as it was my birthday (33rd) but the hotel boss had returned and said I couldn’t stay there after all. Apparently they’d had trouble with some motorcyclists before! I managed to sweet talking them into letting me stay if I only used the backdoor and left early in the morning. Deal.
The first couple of restaurants I found were muslim and didn’t serve beer. I did a walk away and was called back, this time I managed to negotiate bringing in 2 bottles of Tsingtao form the shop next door. After some distinctly average mutton chops I went off to find a good old han restaurant. I was about to give up when I found the barbecue street with beer being sold everywhere, all was well.

545 today, 3000 total